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| GT Please post technical questions in the appropriate Technical Forum, unless it is very specific to the GT. |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Member
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I think that it would be a good idea for someone to create a modern replica of the original dash. The original design is actually very good for the time. Sort of aircraft like. And the original had a full set of instruments. I also had a Mustang Mach 1 and although I really liked the styling of the car, I thought that the dash design was "primitive" compared to the GT design.
foam cores (to make a mold for other dashes?) could be made from a cast of an original dash or could be partly carved and partly hot wire cut from polystyrene or polyurethane foam. Dashes could be fiberglass covered or covered with a flexible vinyl or with a stiched cover as at Opel GT Source. I recently saw a similar dash (stitched) on a Porsche Speedter and it was VERY nice. BDD |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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OK, I think that I have the design that I will be going with. I found a dash cover on Ebay for a Mercedes Benz convertable (the old small two seaters, chassis #107 ). I currently have an inquirery with the maker of the dash cover to get the dimmensions of the cover. If the width is correct and the contour of the front window edge is similar enough, then I will be using this as a cover to the fiberglass dash that I create. Here is a pic of the dash cover modified for my use.
Let me know what you think. |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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Here is my current idea from front view. The photoshop pic is only partially done, but I think you get the idea.
Oh, and if anyone is wondering... the gauges are from http://www.classicinstruments.net |
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#31 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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Prepreg experience for dash?
So far I've done nothing but disassemble my crappy cracked up parts car dashboard, but my future plans are to use it to make a female mold to make a new carbon-fiber dashboard with.
However, I know virtually nothing about working with the stuff. I have a sports car buddy of mine that has ordered a huge roll of prepreg carbon fiber to make fenders and interior parts for his Lotus 7 kit car. He acts like it's not a big deal once you've got a nice female mold made. From the way I understant it, I'm planning on sanding/stripping my parts car dash and applying body filler to get it smooth and shaped the way I want. Then applying a layer of mold release to that, the use a fiberglass jigger (which this friend of mine has, I do not) to make a female copy of the original that I can use as the mold. I suppose I would want to support the fiberglass pretty good so it doesn't warp or whatever, but from what I understand, once you've got the female mold made you just place the prepreg in the mold, heat it up to 180F a few hours or so and voila - carbon fiber dashboard. Not sure how I was going to heat it evenly - I was thinking that I would line the inside of a refrigerator box with aluminum foil and put a heat lamp in there. Has anyone used this stuff that wants to leave some educated input? |
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#32 (permalink) |
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Here is a picture of "Console 1" It was of necissity becaue I need a place to mount numerous extra switches. "Console 2" will be better looking; smaller switches, all systems relay contolled (no #12 wires up to the switch console; all #20-#18 wires, makes a smaller harness)
JJ |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Have Opel, Will Travel
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switches
I like these myself:
http://www.unicornelex.com/newunicor...hp?cat=E48N08& http://rocker-switches.carlingtech.c...switch__26.asp (Check out all the different pictures and legends available!) http://www.marinegeneral.com/acatalo...s_____297.html All of the above can be purchased locally at most good electronics stores, or marine supply centers. These might be worth your time too, for more than just the switches: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2455723017 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2455723575 |
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1958 Rekord Sedan, 1958 Olympia Wagon, 1959 Opel Olympia Sedan, 1967 Kadett Coupe, 1967 Admiral Sedan 4L CIH-6, 1968 Kadett fastback 1.1L, 1970 Kadett Wagon Turbo 2.2L, 1971 Kadett Sedan 1.1L, 1971 Kadett 4-door, 1972 Ascona Sedan 2.8L V-6, 1973 Blue Max Manta, 1975 Manta Wagon 4.3L V-6
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#35 (permalink) |
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Member
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They are Carling switches; but I would not use them again, Kinda big. And the are not suited to the power window application. A recommended switch for that circuit would be a
Dual ,2-way, double Pole, double throw switch with 5 terminals. the 2-way part is just like in a house where one or two or nn number of switches can turn ON or OFF the same light. I can post a schematic of that circuit (switch) later. JJ |
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#37 (permalink) | |
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Also, If anybody watched Monster Garage last night there was a fiberglass fabricator on who made a custom dash pretty much in the manner I plan on- carve polyurethane foam block, 'glass it over and then carve out the foam on the back. Nathan Acree Albuquerque New Mexico |
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#38 (permalink) |
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5,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 5,974
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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I saw that Nathan, that guy is from a shop East of me. A real shame the tranny went south on Jesse's boat/car. I think he might have done too many donuts in his parking lot. I've got an interest in go fast boats, the family was heavy into racing boats during my teen years, I still go to see the Thunderboats every year when they get here in September. From what I saw on the show, it looks to be fairly easy to build an instrument panel, they did it in a couple of days, but that's the premise of the show. BTW, I saw an item on e-bay for 3.4 exhaust flanges. The guy offering them and other flanges is in a community East of me, but then everyone inSAN DIEGO is East of me. I plugged in 3.4 V6 in the search block and they came up. Not what I'm using but I wonder if he could make up individual flanges, that would work in what I'm doing. My exhaust guy said to call him the first of next week, it's only been 3-4 months. Also, do you remember a post last year about a circuit board for the tach that would convert it to the V-6? I thought I saved it, but it's in ether land.
Ron |
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#39 (permalink) |
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Member
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Ron,
I just purchased some header flanges on ebay. They look OK, but they are flame cut and a bit rough. There were some water jet cut ones a while back but I missed out on them. Hope your manifolds get done soon. Your experience really makes me hesitate to even look for someone local to fab mine (guess I will have to do it myself). Anyway, the circuit you want is for the passkey system correct? I remember something about it but I do not have anything saved specifically. If memory serves me it should be a 50Hz square wave generator, but I do not recall whether it was supposed to be a 5V or 12V square wave. I can draw you circuit (555 timer based) if you would like, but I do not have any info on hookup into the camaro harness. I probably will not be using the stock computer. Also you can try a search for "passkey bypass" on google and you should be able to come up with the info fairly quickly. Hope this helps, and if you need that schematic let me know. Nathan Acree Albuquerque New Mexico |
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#40 (permalink) |
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5,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 5,974
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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Nathan, I've already got the Anti-Theft Deterrant system bypassed, I used the circuit that I found on the net and is in My Journal, with pics of the schematic in My Photo Gallery. What I am trying to do is see if you or someone else remembers who it was that had a board for the tach to change it from a 4 cylinder to a 6 cylinder tach. I had it in my Opel e-mail files but it's gone now and I just can't remember who was doing the conversion. I do remember he was asking if there was any interest in it. I think he was working with Mike Pilkenton on it. As far as the exhaust on my side, it's not too much of a problem, yet. I've got enough to do on the car until the exhaust gets done. I'm working on the electrical integration and changing out the fuses with circuit breakers, and wiring relays into both schematics, in between doing the POR-15 trick on all the little pieces I've removed to get to the harness. I also have to look at the alternator and get an AC compressor mounted to the engine and find a belt to run the whole mess. I'm going to, I hope, use part of the right side accessory mount with the belt tensioner and make up a plate for the other side of the engine so I can mount the alternator on one side and the AC on the other. A custom plate will be needed on the left side, then I have to figure where to put the coil-pack. The fun never ends.
Ron |
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#41 (permalink) | |
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Opeler
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SecCo
Opel GT Freak - TurkTuners |
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#42 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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I will have a real crappy one available in about 6 weeks. May car is torn down for paint right now and I don't want to install my new/used dash until the paint is done (need to leave the steering wheel/column in to steer the car). My dash is really bad from the car sitting outside in Arizona for 10 years. We are talking Canyons, not just cracks. You can have it for just shipping and handling if yo don't get one beforehand. I'll just expect full disclosure of all your "NEW" dash secrets.
I live north of Detroit in Holly, MI, I see you are in Ohio. My plans are to ave the car painted by the end of June at the latest. |
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#45 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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A great medium to use for sculpting is high density surfboard foam. Stock pieces of just about any size or thickness can be had. A good source is flyingfoam.com. This stuff can be boardfiled sculpted and laid with fiberglass mat to just about any shape dimension desired. I've used it to make door panels where you can sculpt the armrests right into the panel. I've never considered sculpting a dash but it is a very versitile medium.
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1973 GT, Viper blue pearl metallic, 2.0L, Chevy valves, autocross cam, Mahle pistons, 38 DGAS, header, Konis, poly bushes, F/R anti-sway, lowered, body kit, shaved door handles, power windows, AutoMeter gauges, 2.25x40x16 Yokis, 3:67 gears
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#46 (permalink) |
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Member
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Remanufacturing a Tach
Ron
I might still have the guys name and address. For certian I have the origional schematics, PC board layout, and notes for using the tach for everything from 1cyl to 12cyl and beyond. Let me know what you need/want and I will sort through my archive and dig them out. Darrin |
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Ka mate! Ka ora!
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#47 (permalink) |
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5,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 5,974
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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Darrin, Thanx for the input. But, if you'll note the date on my post, that was just a bit over 2 years ago. I got what I needed from P.J. Hall, the schematic, two PC boards and instructions. Now all I have to do is get everything back in the car, get the engine running so I can adjust the new tach board to the engine scanner plugged into the computer. I think that would be the easiest way to set the new board. Thanx for the offer, though.
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Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |