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#1 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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New owner of a 69' GT
My wife and I are now proud owners of a 1969 GT. I really haven't done much works on cars, I tend to lean the two wheel way but my wife loves this car so its our project and since I know nothing about Opels other than GM brought them stateside, I was wondering if somone could tell me about restoring a GT. I have a few books/manuals that came with the car, other than that I know that the starter turns the flywheel but the battery is toast from being in storage for two years. Prior to going into storage it ran. I plan on making this a longterm restore and bring her back as orginal as I can.
Thanks, Ryan |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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First, get a FSM off ebay or download the one on this site. Destec sells a 11"x17" laminated wiriing color wiring diagram that is useful. Does your car have a 1.1L or 1.9L 4 cyl? The 1.1L will probably have dual single barrel carbs and is rare. If it is a 1.9L it may have the stock 2 bbl Solex or a replacement Weber. Is it a 4 spd or auto?
Search this site, it is loaded with more information than you will need. Ask questions but make them detailed so people can answer concisely. The experts are all monitoring this site. For a car just out of storage, change all fluids. Check the brakes for leaks and proper action. If calibers and pistons are frozen, you can get parts from Opel GT source (OGTS). Replaced the 3 rubber brake line hoses if they are original. If not already done, replace the headlight wireing from the radiator forward as the original insulation is probably gone. Post some pics and let us know how much rust if any there is. Let us know where ypu are located. There may be a an enthusiats nearby. Terry |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Restoration Dude
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Congrats on your purchase
I always wanted a '69 but never been able to find one. I have however owned every other Opel year till '73.
I would start by making an inspection of the car and then getting a "things to do" list started. Main concern is the engine at this point since the car won't move without it. Once the engine is to the point that you can fire it up and let it run, then I would hit the next target on the list. I know of a person who fixed just about everything and left the engine for last. After spending $800 on brakes, wiring, rubber items and so on, he found out the engine needed major work. Enjoy your project and when in doubt, don't forget to ask.... |
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JB
Restore, Customize and Conquer!!! |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Southern Red Neck
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"Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"
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#5 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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Thanks
I'm not sure what size engine it is, I cannot remember but I do know it's a four speed. The exterior is in amazing shape, just some minor rust on the front rt. fender. However due to originally being a car from New York, there's some rust on the underbody, nothing too severe like my old Ford truck. I also had a question about lead additives for fuel. When I cleaned out the interior of the car I found several bottles of lead additive, is it nessecary to add that? I've never had a problem with my 73' Yamaha RD350 with today's fuels, although it's a two stroke bike.
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#6 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,033
Classified Rating: 0% (0)
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The reason for the lead additive to the fuel is to replace the lead removed from the fuel by the refineries. Without it, the valves may hammer the soft valve seats into oblivion. It is best to use it just to be on the safe side. If and when you do an engine rebuild, you can put in hardened seats that will negate the use of the additive. BTW, two-strokes don't have intake or exhaust valves so you don't need the additive in them.
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Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |
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