Introduction/Questions

[NilsD]

Hi,

I hereby introduce myself briefly.
My name is Nils, I live in Belgium and I (still) study at the University of Ghent.
*Throws in a picture as well.*

I recently bought a Opel GT 1900 abroad. I'm finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel concerning the difficult import procedure. So I have a couple of questions:

° Is there an automatic choke present. Because when I start the car, sometimes it makes a lot of noise similar to when you are actually giving gass.
° Also, is it true you can turn that automatic choke of by giving some gass yourself?
° When I start the car I always push the gass pedal three times before turning the ignition. This should make it start smoother. Correct?
° Lately when I turn the ignition to start the car, the start engine keeps going for three or four seconds. After that, the car finally starts. Is this because of the cold or could it be a wet spark plug [bougie] or something to that effect? Maybe both?
° I need a new spring for my driving seat (the mechanism for leaning back and forth is broken). Any ideas on where to find such a thing?

Alright. I hope you can help. Thanks in advance!

[First opel 1981]

Greetings.

To begin to answer the questions you asked.

Depending on the carburetor in your Opel GT, you will have an electric or water driven automatic choke.
When you first start the car it should idle up (idle a little fast) until it warms up. After the choke opens, it will adle normally (if everything is working properly).
I also start my GT with 3 pumps on the gas pedal.
The car will be a little harder to start when its cold outside. Its also possible that the gasoline is leaking out of your float bowl after you shut off the engine. This would cause you to have to crank the engine for a few seconds before it will start.

As for your seat. It's probably not a spring you need if you are talking about the back tilting. If the backrest won't lock into place, its probably a bad stud. You can get a replacement stud from Opel GT Source

Hope that helps you get some answers.

[NilsD]

Originally Posted by First opel 1981 Greetings. To begin to answer the questions you asked. Depending on the carbureator in your Opel GT, you will have an electric or water driven automatic choke. When you first start the car it should idle up (idle a little fast) until it warms up. After the choke opens, it will adle normally (if everything is working properly). I also start my GT with 3 pumps on the gas pedal. The car will be a little harder to start when its cold outside. Its also possible that the gasoline is leaking out of your float bowl after you shut off the engine. This would cause you to have to crank the engine for a few seconds before it will start. As for your seat. It's probably not a spring you need if you are talking about the back tilting. If the backrest won't lock into place, its probably a bad stud. You can get a replacement stud from OpelGTSource at this URL Opel GT Source --- Online Store --- Interior Hope that helps you get some answers.

Thanks for the answers.
So basically, I need to always pump the pedal three times. Then start the car. It wil idle fast until the automatic (water or eletric driven) choke kicks in.Then it will idle normally so there is no need to give gass to turn the choke off. I just need to drive carefully until the engine is warm to not damage parts. Right?

Also, the car was stationary in the garage for weeks. No leakage on the floor though. So no cranking the engine then?

Did you mean the car is always harder to start when it is cold or especially when you pump the pedal three times?

[First opel 1981]

Originally Posted by NilsD Thanks for the answers. So basically, I need to always pump the pedal three times. Then start the car. It wil idle fast until the automatic (water or eletric driven) choke kicks in.Then it will idle normally so there is no need to give gass to turn the choke off. I just need to drive carefully until the engine is warm to not damage parts. Right? Also, the car was stationary in the garage for weeks. No leakage on the floor though. So no cranking the engine then? Did you mean the car is always harder to start when it is cold or especially when you pump the pedal three times?

Yes, you got the choke thing correct.

The car will always be harder to start when its cold. The colder it is, the harder it will be to start.
If the car sits for a few days, this is how I start them. Pump the pedal three times and crank for 5 seconds or until it starts, whichever is the shortest period of time.
If the car doesn't start after 5 seconds, pump the gas 3 more times and try again. Every carbureated car I have owned has started this way by the third try unless there was something wrong.

If you have to try more than 3 times, I would think something was wrong.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by NilsD ...Then it will idle normally so there is no need to give gas to turn the choke off.

Not quite.

When the choke is pushed towards the closed position by the bimetallic spring (which when cold, pushes the choke plate closed) and you step on the throttle once and release it, the choke plate closes and the "fast idle" cam contacts the fast idle screw. This causes the throttle plate to open slightly more than at a normal idle. The closed choke plate restricts the air flow into the carb, increasing the vacuum that draws fuel into the intake, providing a richer mixture that burns better when the engine is cold.

Depending on the position of the choke plate, the fast idle cam will either be fully engaged (choke closed completely) or partially engaged (choke partially closed). If you simply let the engine idle, it will run faster and faster as it warms up (and the bimetallic spring, warmed by either engine coolant in a water choke or by electrical current on electric choke carbs, opens the choke plate), until you step on the throttle again, which allows the fast idle cam to be released, setting the idle screw back to the normal position.

So in summary, to set the choke with the engine cold, you MUST step on the throttle at least once. Stepping on it three times does this, but also pumps more raw gas into the intake, making starting a bit easier when cold. Pumping it TOO many times will flood the engine. Pushing the pedal all the way to the floor when starting forces the choke plate open partway, which can alleviate a flooded engine, but the forced open choke will actually not work as well to richen the fuel mixture. Better to crank the engine with the throttle about halfway open unless it is flooded.

Then, as the engine warms up, the throttle must be stepped on again to release the fast idle cam. The act of simply giving it gas to move the car is enough to make this happen.

HTH

[NilsD]

Great replies!

This is the one thing I don't quite get though: "This causes the throttle plate to open slightly more than at a normal idle."

[SantaClaw]

Originally Posted by NilsD Great replies! This is the one thing I don't quite get though: "This causes the throttle plate to open slightly more than at a normal idle."

Basically, there are two idle settings, fast idle, and slow idle, this is temperature controlled via a bimetallic spring. But you need to step on the throttle/gas pedal once to engage fast idle.


A bimetallic spring is a spring that changes shape depending of the temperature..

So when it's cold, the spring pushes the carburetor into fast idle, and when the engine warms up, the spring retracts, and the slow idle needle is engaged.

So, the spring doesn't actually engage fast idle on its own, you need to press on the gas when it's cold for the fast idle to engage/start working.

[NilsD]

Originally Posted by SantaClaw Basically, there are two idle settings, fast idle, and slow idle, this is temperature controlled via a bimetallic spring. But you need to step on the throttle/gas pedal once to engage fast idle. A bimetallic spring is a spring that changes shape depending of the temperature.. So when it's cold, the spring pushes the carburetor into fast idle, and when the engine warms up, the spring retracts, and the slow idle needle is engaged. So, the spring doesn't actually engage fast idle on its own, you need to press on the gas when it's cold for the fast idle to engage/start working.

And normal idle is the engine running normally (like when you just already went for a drive and the engine is still warm)?

[SantaClaw]

Originally Posted by NilsD And normal idle is the engine running normally (like when you just already went for a drive and the engine is still warm)?

Well, idle, is when the engine is running without you touching the gas/throttle, so when the engine is warm "You already been for a drive" the slow idle\normal idle needle works...

Basically, when the engine is cold, it shoud idle, at a higher rpm than when it's warmed up.

[NilsD]

So, in summary, this is what I need to do:
I pump the pedal three times when it is cold or one time when the outside temperature is not. Then I crank the engine (turn the ignition key) for about five seconds. If it starts, good, if not repeat the process two more times. If it did not start, something is wrong (maybe with the bougies). If it did start and it is hot outside, or the engine is warm there are no more problems. If it is cold I pump the pedal one more time to make the fast idle work. After a while I pump it once again to make the fast idle stop working.

This is quite complicated

[newman27]

Originally Posted by NilsD So, in summary, this is what I need to do: I pump the pedal three times when it is cold or one time when the outside temperature is not. Then I crank the engine (turn the ignition key) for about five seconds. If it starts, good, if not repeat the process two more times. If it did not start, something is wrong (maybe with the bougies). If it did start and it is hot outside, or the engine is warm there are no more problems. If it is cold I pump the pedal one more time to make the fast idle work. After a while I pump it once again to make the fast idle stop working. This is quite complicated

It's not nearly as complicated as it sounds. Just remember to push the accelerator pedal 1 - 3 times all the way to the floor before turning the key. Once started, the engine will fast idle until you start to drive the car which will take the fast idle off.

Back to the seat question, I did this recently and posted some tips in this thread. The bolt from OGTS fixes the problem but you need to get all the various pieces together in the right orientation to make it work. A pair of needle nose pliers is a must to be able to move all the parts of the lever and seat gear into position and get the spring in place. Don't just put the bolt back in without the spring. The spring plays and important role in making sure the lever engages the teeth of the gear correctly. See the photos in the same thread linked above to help visualize the operation.

Finally, your English is very good but you used the word "bougies" that I am not sure what you mean.

HTH

Matt

[NilsD]

Originally Posted by newman27 Finally, your English is very good but you used the word "bougies" that I am not sure what you mean. HTH Matt

Whoops, I meant 'spark plugs'.

Thanks for your reply. Isn't pushing the pedal all the way down going to drown the engine though?

I am certainly going to check out the thread you mentioned. The seat goes back and forth just fine but when you go sit in the car too roughly the seat flips back. The spring isn't strong enough anymore I think.

[newman27]

Originally Posted by NilsD Whoops, I meant 'spark plugs'. Thanks for your reply. Isn't pushing the pedal all the way down going to drown the engine though? I am certainly going to check out the thread you mentioned. The seat goes back and forth just fine but when you go sit in the car too roughly the seat flips back. The spring isn't strong enough anymore I think.

One firm push all the way to the floor and then a slow release prior to turning the key is the method I have been using when the car is cold. On restart, after it is warm, I push the pedal about half way, release, and then turn the key. I think that is the method straight out of the GT owner's manual if I recall correctly.

Matt

[NilsD]

I have read your thread. Interesting. The first question is where I can find that OGTS bolt. I googled for it but that didn't help alot.

[First opel 1981]

Originally Posted by NilsD I have read your thread. Interesting. The first question is where I can find that OGTS bolt. I googled for it but that didn't help alot.

You get it from OGTS. Here is a link to the specific item

Opel GT Source --- Online Store --- Interior

Just click the link.

[NilsD]

Alright. Thanks!
I'm going to check it out when I come home.
Also, I have a problem with my windshield sprayers. When I push the pedal the left one sprays perfectly fine but the right one just oozes out some. I thought the right one was clogged so with a needle I tried to remove possible dirt. But it still does that. Any ideas?

[Motor Mouth]

Hi Nils, congrats on buying what looks like a nice GT.

As for your problems well they're not really big problems and should be easy to fix. I see some of the guys have suggested GT Source for parts and Gil and the guys at 'Source' are great for helping out.

However if you want someone a little closer to home you could try contact Peter at Suselbeek, here's a link Welcome to Suselbeek Opel GT parts cars and service

They're based near Arnhem and have a huge parts supply, which they also do by mail order, so well worth a look for you.

I hope this helps you and 'Happy Opeling'.

[NilsD]

;o) Thanks.
It is in fact a very nice Opel GT. Fully restored inside and out. Only needs a paintjob to look it's best. But since I'm a student and also have a couple of motorcycles, I'm going to leave it the way it is for now.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by NilsD Hi, I hereby introduce myself briefly. My name is Nils, I live in Belgium and I (still) study at the University of Ghent. *Throws in a picture as well.* I recently bought a Opel GT 1900 abroad. I'm finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel . . . Alright. I hope you can help. Thanks in advance!

. . . also welcome here and let me suggest this Dutch site in addition to this one . . . just joined it myself and always nice to have several, especially in the same time zone and language . . .

Hét Forum voor de Klassieke Opel GT

[gvy]

Hi Nils,
I am Geert and live in Oosterzele ( near Gent ).
I also studied in Gent, but that seems ages ago. It's nice to see that the GT is still loved and known by younger people.
Indeed this car is about 40 years old and needs more attention and care then todays cars.
I build a 2.2i injection engine.Starts better.....
Parts are easy to find here in Belgium or holland so that is the good thing.
The dutch website, tekenaar mentioned, is a very informative one.

greetings
Geert

[NilsD]

I was already familiar with that other forum.
Greetings to the Dutch speaking part of this community!

[NilsD]

Nobody on the previous post with the windshield sprayers problem?

Also, when I shift gears whilest driving, and I want to accelerate again, the car seems to "cough" a little bit, making the transition between gears not smooth at all. It seems like it startles for a second and then the speed increases but until a certain point where the car runs smooth again, the power that is supplied is very "interrupted". Like when you run out of gas or your cilinders freeze when driving a motorcycle in cold weather.

[First opel 1981]

Originally Posted by NilsD Also, when I shift gears whilest driving, and I want to accelerate again, the car seems to "cough" a little bit, making the transition between gears not smooth at all. It seems like it startles for a second and then the speed increases but until a certain point where the car runs smooth again, the power that is supplied is very "interrupted". Like when you run out of gas or your cilinders freeze when driving a motorcycle in cold weather.

It sounds like your accelerator pump or vacuum advance isn't working properly.

[SpringGT]

Sounds like the check valve in the right side washer hose is bad or missing.
Read this thread.

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/group-9...her-lines.html

[NilsD]

Originally Posted by SpringGT Sounds like the check valve in the right side washer hose is bad or missing. Read this thread. http://www.opelgt.com/forums/group-9...her-lines.html

Do you mean that the right side of the T (that goes to the nozzle that malfunctions) is broken? Since that is a check valve of its own?