Project Ascona B 2,0 CIH Turbo

[kma]

Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U If possible, could you do a photo report how you make your trunck lid and with which materials??

Ok !! I will try.

Heres the things you need.
Most of it comes from a local boatstore. The bigger amount you buy of everything the cheeper it gets (price per kilo).

Wax (rather without silicone) I use Carnaubawax
Polyvinylalcohol. Makes the mold come off easier.
Sponge
Polyester + hardener
Gelcoat
Glasfiber cloth
Acetone (for cleaning the tools)
Disposable brush (can be used several times if its cleaned)
A couple of different rollers to work the air out of the mat
A pair of scissors
Rubber gloves
Facemask (polyester really stinks)
Floorprotection (its quite messy)


Step 1: Cover all holes you dont want with tape. Make sure the polyester cant slink in between so it locks the mold to the original.

Step 2: Treat the surface with wax. Polish

Step 3: Treat the surface with polyvinylalcohol. Apply with a moisturized sponge. Let it dry and repeat the procedure. Let it dry.

Step 4: Mix gelcoat and hardener. Brush it out to approximate 0,5 mm layer.Clean the brush.

Step 5: Coffeetime , whilst the gelcoat gels

Step 6: Mix polyester and hardener. Dont mix too much at a time, 3 deciliters is enough to start with. Apply polyester and apply the mat. Make sure to wet it well. When its wet it becomes almost transparent , work the air out.
Sharp corners and edges is the most difficult to get right. Be accurate in thoose places. Tare or cut the mat into pieces. The best way is to tare the mat when yoy need small pieces. You get a more durable overlapping with a tared mat than a cut mat.
The more layer with mat and polyester, the thicker the mold will be.

Step 7: Wait at least 24 hours for the mold to harden.

Disassembly the mold from the original. Hopefully it comes loose. If it doesent you have done a bad ground work.
Clean the mold from polyvinylacohol with water.

Practice on a small surface first.

I hope you can follow this "manual" and succed in making molds.

Moderators:: Please edit the text if theres something wrong

Almost all the things you needApplying the polyvinylalcoholMake sure covering all holes where the polyester can slink in and deadlock Gelcoat applied , waiting for it to gel

[kma]

In the beginning of applying and wetting the matContinuingAt least three layers laterAt the very end , 2-3 hours laterOnly to begin to cast in your new molds. Its the same procedure and many hours later

[2 Fast 4 U]

Thanks Magnus!!

[kma]

Done some sheet metal modifications. I am going to make a singlewipersystem. Bigger weightloss due to [that I can] cutting away the right half and throwing the long strut away.

Before:


During:


After:


Before modification:

[2 Fast 4 U]

Looks very good!!

[kma]

I have constructed a "twirler" so I can place the body however I want to.



In the beginning of peeling the underwork compound away



Some brackets I dont need in the future. As light body as possible.

[akis-driver]

Its a great project keep us posted.Your fiberglass parts are really good.Can you give more info on the engine?From which volvo did the pistons came from and from which Saab the conrods?Did you have to work on them to get them to fit?I hope its finished soon looks great

[kma]

The pistons comes from Volvo B230FT and the rods are modified H-beam steel rods fitting SAAB 9000 2,3.
I had to modify both the pistons and the rods.
The pistons were cut off 0,6 millimeters on the top

Today you can buy these rods bolt on from Sten Parner Motor instead of modifying SAAB-rods

Price 1225 SEK /each with ARP-bolts.