Need to identify missing (?) switch in instrument panel + need some parts!

[73mantaNOS]

Hi All!

First of all, I would like to ask for help to identify what kind of switch, and what function it may have is missing from my instrument panel.
As my car was basically just a body shell and boxes of parts when I bought it, it's been a bit difficult figuring out what goes where
See attached image, what I'm looking for is the switch above the headlight switch..

Also, if anybody has a parts car and can spare some bits please let me know, I'd be interested in some interior parts.

On another note, the restoration of the '73 that I started in 2004 is nearing completion, I'll post some pictures in a while
The car has only 11k miles on the counter as it was crashed in 1975 and has not been on the road since, so everything is "like new", except for the brakes and shock absorbers of course..

[jerseyopel]

Some cars had this feature and some had a blank off plate there.

[73mantaNOS]

Is this the same as rear window heat? If so, I have that switch, on the right-hand side. It's not a blower, just heat in the glass itself.

[BQS4]

The cut out on the left side was for the fog light switch option, or if you had a Rallye Manta, it was the fog light switch. The right side was for the heated rear glass in tha Manta, Ascona and the Ascona Wagon. Both the heated glass and the fog light switch are inter-changeable, so, if you wanted to run a second set of lights, you can pop a fog light switch in on the right side too. The real interesting thing is, is that the european cars got more of these switches than we here in the US. I'd love to get a few more of these switches.

[73mantaNOS]

Ex-cellent!
Thanks for the information. I was thinking of using this space for heated drivers seat "option" (it's cold here in Norway) - Now I just have to get hold of a switch to pop in there..

[BQS4]

Well, if you happen to be out and about "Junk Yard" shopping, and happen to see a few more of these switches just pop them in a box and send them to me please!?! You can use the Opel switch in there, it's just a basic "on/off" and it's made for that spot, so it won't look out of place, plus, the heated glass switch has a little bulb in it to let you know you turned on the back glas, or heated seat, or whatever.

[73mantaNOS]

Will let you know if I find anything, however the known old-Opel junkyards over here don't have any Mantas anymore though, they used to about 5-10 years ago...
Will try some dealers as well, there are a few here that still have good NOS parts lying around, I managed to get some very nice chrome parts practically free...

[BQS4]

The 71-75 Ascona A series Wagon and Sedans had the exact same interior and dash, so there's another source.

[Mike Preble]

The switch for the fog lights also has a green light in it to indicate the lights are on. At least mine does. It is nice to have a spare as I haven't figured out how to take my switch apart to change the bulb without destroying the switch.

Mike

[dallasmanta]

the green switch for the fog lights does not have a wiring harness built into the car, but the heated rear window is prewired and taped to the metal bracing behind the gauge cluster in the manta. The two switches look the same but are not. They both fit the slots in the the cluster and have the unique markers that show what the switch function is. I think I have some spares if one wants pictures. ron

[timemachine]

Dan and others have correct observations. The switches are "stamped" graphically to indicate their purpose. The rear glass circuit is pre-wired to wherever the defroster relay was supposed to go even if the car didn't come with wired rear glass. The rear glass switch is single pole, double throw (SPDT) has three stacked horizontal spade terminals, with the center terminal going to ground to close and open the relay.

The (green) fog lamp switch has two spade terminals in a "T" formation, a single throw, single pole (SPST) switch with an indicator bulb wired inside the switch in parallel. I gave up my last rallye 20+ years ago and don't remember how they snaked the fog light circuit to the relay located near the coil. The manual says it ran through fuse #2, which was switched with the ignition.

Because I recall that the bulb was mounted in it, I believe there was a plastic mount that snapped to the fog lamp switch as opposed to individual spade lugs. I can't recall for the defroster switch, though there was no lamp. Plus, I can't recall if the defroster shut off automatically through a thermal link in the relay, though it wouldn't last long if left on all the time. It did help though, especially with that flat rear glass.

Jim

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by dallasmanta Originally Posted by Mike Preble The switch for the fog lights also has a green light in it to indicate the lights are on. At least mine does. It is nice to have a spare as I haven't figured out how to take my switch apart to change the bulb without destroying the switch. Mike the green switch for the fog lights does not have a wiring harness built into the car, but the heated rear window is prewired and taped to the metal bracing behind the gauge cluster in the manta. The two switches look the same but are not. They both fit the slots in the the cluster and have the unique markers that show what the switch function is. I think I have some spares if one wants pictures. ron

. . . YES! . . . front and rear pics of both switches posted here, please!

BTW, here's the TÜV approved way to wire the Opel Rallye Fog lights ("On" only with the Low Beams) and the Opel Rallye Distance lights (come "On" with the High Beams):

[timemachine]

Here are pics of the switches in question. The fog lamp switch is on the left in all three. The toggle on the fog lamp switch is actually green and semitransparent. You can see where the square lamp insert goes into the fog lamp switch. I think it was part of a single connector that also hald the spade lugs.

Though there is a round hole in the defroster switch, I don't think it was intended to hold a lamp in this case.

Either would work for a relay for heated seats, you'd just ignore the top lug on the defroster switch. The little pics that describe the function also pop out of the switches. You could probably create something to represent a seat heater.

Jim

[BQS4]

Jim;
There's actually a special plug for the defroster switch, and the little bulb is in that plug.

[timemachine]

Originally Posted by BQS4 Jim; There's actually a special plug for the defroster switch, and the little bulb is in that plug.

I didn't remember the defrost switch lighting and I don't doubt you Gene, but how did it light up with the black toggle? Mine might have been burned out, I do remember the green glow with those old fog lamps on.

Jim

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by timemachine I didn't remember the defrost switch lighting and I don't doubt you Gene, but how did it light up with the black toggle? Mine might have been burned out, I do remember the green glow with those old fog lamps on. Jim

Jim;
I'd need to pull one of the special pulgs out, but, there was a short jumper wire that supplied power to the little bulb from the main power to the switch.

[OpelJim]

Originally Posted by BQS4 The cut out on the left side was for the fog light switch option, or if you had a Rallye Manta, it was the fog light switch. The right side was for the heated rear glass in tha Manta, Ascona and the Ascona Wagon. Both the heated glass and the fog light switch are inter-changeable, so, if you wanted to run a second set of lights, you can pop a fog light switch in on the right side too. The real interesting thing is, is that the european cars got more of these switches than we here in the US. I'd love to get a few more of these switches.

Gene, I have a bunch if you want some of them let me know

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by OpelJim Gene, I have a bunch if you want some of them let me know

Jim;
PM me with your price

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . YES! . . . here's the TÜV approved way to wire the Opel Rallye Fog lights ("On" only with the Low Beams) and the Opel Rallye Distance lights (always come "On" with the High Beams):

. . . of course, you could always wire another "Fog light" switch (SPST) into the Distance Light relay coil "plus" lead (85) and make it switchable (below)!

[oldopelguy]

I like a one-switch two-relay set-up myself.

One switch activates a relay to supply power to the other. One side of the switch ignition feeder, other side to term. 85 on Otto's relay, 86 to ground, 30 to battery and 87 to the 30 term. on the next relay.

Second relay uses term. 86 to ground and 85 to high beam headlights, 87 to driving lights, 87a to fog lights, 30 being fed from previous relay.

This configuration allows one switch to be used for both sets of aux lights, and the high/low selector in the car to activate the fogs with the low beams and the driving with the high beams.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by oldopelguy I like a one-switch two-relay set-up myself. One switch activates a relay to supply power to the other. One side of the switch ignition feeder, other side to term. 85 on Otto's relay, 86 to ground, 30 to battery and 87 to the 30 term. on the next relay. Second relay uses term. 86 to ground and 85 to high beam headlights, 87 to driving lights, 87a to fog lights, 30 being fed from previous relay. This configuration allows one switch to be used for both sets of aux lights, and the high/low selector in the car to activate the fogs with the low beams and the driving with the high beams.

Even better, Stephen's "single switch control for Fog and Driving lights" wiring diagram:

[BQS4]

Otto;
Just so this dumb ole Kuntry Boy thinks he understands, this wiring diagram of yours/Stephens works like this:
parking lights - you can use fog lights
headlights (low beam) - you can use fog lights
hit hi beam and the fog lights shut off and the driving lights come on with the hi beams? Correct?

[oldopelguy]

Yep, though you could actually use the fog lights whenever you wanted with that configuration, with or without the parking lights. It would probably make sense to have the "Key on +12V" going to the switch come from the parking lights, so that none of the aux lights work without having them on, but I worry more about them working without the car running and killing the battery than I worry about them being on without parking lights.

Truth be told I would wire the "Key on +12V" going to the switch, the signal that powers the whole works to turn on, to come from the wire going between the charging idiot light and the alternator. That wire is only brought up to 12V when the alternator is actually putting out power, otherwise it's at ground potential. That's also where I usually power the trigger for my fuel pump relays too, that way if the motor dies so does the fuel pump. (Cheaper than a pressure switch.) It's not an electrical supply you want to actually hook a load to, but even Opel used it as the trigger for the defogger relay for the Kadett so it's OK for a relay or two that you only want powered up when the electrical system on the car can handle the load.

[BQS4]

Stephen;
The one switch idea is what I want to use, that way I can save the other dash switch for something else. I used to have a three way switch in my old truck, that I could be running low beams and fogs or just low beams, and hit the hi-beam stack and the headights would go to hi, the driving lights would go on and the fog lights would come on, something similar to the sun coming up in the middle of the night.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by oldopelguy Yep . . . Truth be told I would wire the "Key on +12V" going to the switch, . . . to come from the wire going between the charging idiot light and the alternator. That wire is only brought up to 12V when the alternator is actually putting out power, otherwise it's at ground potential . . . so it's OK for a relay or two that you only want powered up when the electrical system on the car can handle the load.

I worried about fog lights coming on with the switch any time the key is in an "on" position with the single switch/dual relay setup too and was thinking about a main 12V source from the parking/headlight switch, but Stephen's solution works and the "light blue/white" wire from the alt idiot light to the alt/reg B+ connections is available both underhood and behind the dash, a real plus!

I should mention that that main idiot lightwire hookup is the same on older, generator equiped cars, i.e. the B+ connection at the gen/reg! So, for all the E-challenged members here . . . actually, just to make it simpler for everyone: