Producing Manta Sheet Metal

[GoinManta]

Originally Posted by RallyBob It can be hand-formed, you just need a bigger f'ing hammer, bigger forearms, and a few more beers worth of time to work it.

Ahh... so hmm.

I would guess I should get the first one done and the size right and then work on the forming issue.

Charles

[GoinManta]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Don't do galvanized steel. It produces toxic fumes when welded, and is a PITA to get paint to adhere to it properly.

What about other patches? Especially where paint isnt a issue.

Also asked a guy from my shop about paint and he said there is a primer that can be used.

The reason I ask is I found another patch I will have to create and it will reuire a good deal of hand forming.

The Flap I was desigining for the Battery box end doesnt look to easy to form still attached to the battery box, also it misses a lower section of the fender that is below the box.

I should have a paper prototype for it within the next hour or two (will attach pictures).

Kind of nice to actually find out my Mantas battery box was so badly rusted. Gives me a indication of what areas I do need to make to have a complete repair for the area.

[GTJIM]

The body man who did extensive panel repairs on my GT swears by a material called "Zintec" which has a flat, matt grey appearance. It is widely used here for ducting that requires welding and is far easier to work with than traditional bright galvanised steel. He built a complete belly pan out of it. Paint goes on to it far better than on to the traditional bright galvanising.
HTH

[GoinManta]

That may be what we use as our everyday duct material. I know they never seem to have a problem painting it and they weld with it a lot.

Charles

[baz]

zintec is all i use for body repairs as it does not want to rust
i have left a patch repair unpainted for 14 months on 1 of my cars just to see what it did and after i wire brushed the welds it was ok to paint
no worrys about the inside of a patch rusting when zintec is used

[GoinManta]

This is the piece that will be made to fix the fender area that rusts out.

I am going to make it so the Battery box just sits perfectly into it.

Also just finished prototyping the battery box in ACAD and Posterboard.

I will also be working on designing the Firewall patch, tonight/tommorrow.

Should have all these parts first run, off the table first of the week.

Unfortunately I don't have a MIG so I won't know how well they weld until later. But I will have the dry fit confirmed so you all can get them.

[GoinManta]

OK the design of the firewall patch is done.

See the overall Kit detail.

My shop should have the prototypes ready for me tommorrow.

Green = Firewall Patch - Fixed the area behind the booster, that is not usually as rusted as it is cracked. Recommend everyone install this.

Red = Battery box

Yellow = Inner Fender patch. This is designed to be trimmable to patch either the upper fender area which more than likely maybe rusted and the area of the fender whell below the battery box that is also often rusted. This piece will need to be hand formed and trimmed according to the amount of rust you have.

Its looking like $85 will be the price of the whole kit.

Material will be a paint-grip sheetmetal we use at the shop that holds paint, is easy to weld, and should overall do the best job for the novice. It has a primer on it that is made for exposure and painting. Better than standard autobody primered parts from what I am told. Some like myself are less adept at welding, and since our cars will be treated much better than they were on thier trip down rust alley, the paintgrip metal should be fine.

For those that want any of these pieces in stainless steel I will be able to do that to.. not sure on the upcharge, waiting on the shop to give me a price. Obviously some here would have no problem forming and welding stainless to an old car body.

What do you all think?

[BQS4]

Charles;
Really looking good, and the price is great, all three pieces for $85? Wow, can't beat it!

[GoinManta]

Thanks, This has been fun.

After this, I will tackle designing a frame rail/jackpoint/floorboard patch.

Charles

[GTJIM]

Paint the area with POR-15 after welding it in and that "paintgrip metal" will outlast stainless steel and be lots easier to work with!

Use a plastic tray under the battery and take the tray out each winter prep. time and flush it with water - the next owner, who purchases the car from your estate (in 50 plus years time!) will bless you!

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by GTJIM Use a plastic tray under the battery and take the tray out each winter prep. time and flush it with water - the next owner, who purchases the car from your estate (in 50 plus years time!) will bless you!

Even better Jim, use the Marine-Clean to wash the area down. It's an alkaline based cleaner and it will neutralize the battery acid quite nicely. Rinse with warm water, and you're all set!

[kwilford]

Sounds GREAT Charles! And by the way, it's good to see you on this site so much. I worried for a while that you had gone over to the BMW side

Would it be helpful to create an "order" page? Perhaps by way of a "poll", where readers can "vote" to buy either a complete kit, or just individual pieces, and in either steel or stainless? Let me know, and I can try to turn this thread into a poll to suit your needs.

I am fairly competent at MIG welding carbon steel, but I haven't done stainless. I presume you need the proper wire and blanket gas. And how do you weld the stainless to the carbon steel panels?

If I get a new steel battery box, I was going to install a modern resin battery base to catch spills and such. They are commonplace in modern cars (as in newer than twenty years), and so can be "found" at your local wrecker.

[GoinManta]

Nope just not a lot of time to spend on the forum. Or so I thought.

Garys upgrades recently have made it much easier.

That and I am currently into two Opel projects (I havent had anything active with my Opels since my Bitter suspension got rebuilt last year).

As for welding... Thats what my brother in law is for

[GoinManta]

Well first off let me say 20 Guage is more than thick enough.. almost too thick. Shop guys say it is the thinnest that will weld good, and yet the body seems to be even thinner. If I were to guess the fender wall was made of 24 or 26 guage.
The Firewall patch needs a few tweaks to miss a few things on the firewall but overall fit really well.

The Fender patch was the furthest off, needing a number of tweaks, need to shorten in a few places and lengthen in others.

The Battery Box needed the least tweaks of all. One problem is a remnanat of the old box is really secured to the inner fender and getting in the way. What it looks to be is the side of the battery box where it was spot welded to the inner fender. I don't want to cut it out too far and cause more damage, so I will shrink up the battery box a little (3/16" or so) so it can fit tight to it, and it can be left in place as is. This way depending on skill of installer it will be a easy piece to fit into place. May need to be pulled out a little at the top if this area is gone on your car.

Make the changes tonight and hope the shop can get me the second prototype done tommorrow.

For a first run, I am very happy with the overall fit and finish. Obviously I didn't expect it to be perfect on the first go around, although one can hope.

[GoinManta]

Firewall mods went perfect, it is exact.

Battery box is very close.. two small tweaks and I need to reduce the size of the hole for the wiring harness..

The fender patch I am going back and redesigning a bit.. its getting much closer.

I think by Wed, I can say I will be happy with the final product. I will then need a guinea pig or two for the first run to give me impressions of what they think.

Still awaiting on pricing from my shop. I may have found a way to cut the price even more. Thats if I do the forming during my lunch period and none of the seams get welded before it ships. I think that may work best anyway because it will allow for everyone to make modifications easier depending on thier level of rust.

BTW just got my hands on a European Battery Box replacement, mine are about twice as thick and I doubt they could ever rust out again.. unless abused.

Charles

[BQS4]

By guinea pig, you mean someone with a welder to actually install the items, or just to "test fit" to their particular car?

[GoinManta]

Both.. perferably someone that can give me a fairly quick turn around, so if I have to make changes I can do so before i sell them to others.

Charles

[BQS4]

Well, I don't have a welder, that puts me in the "test fit" catagory. BTW, the package arrived today, and if you were wondering where the other pieces were, they were in the GT we used as a ballot box

[GoinManta]

I had wondered, and thought I remembered some of them there.

I figured you were probably a good enough modeler to replicate any missing ones

Charles

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by GoinManta I will then need a guinea pig or two for the first run to give me impressions of what they think. Charles

Umm, I hereby VOLUNTEER! I have a "new" fuse box for my SportWagon (just needed a few terminals re-riveted) which I would like to install to replace the hornet's nest of fuse blocks and loose wires that Kat left me after she had half re-wired the car. She had pop riveted a sheet of aluminum in as a battery box, so that HAS to come out. If you would be gracious enough to let me be the first on the block, I will do the install right away, and thoroughly photo-document the install. Of course I will pay the full price plus shipping, in hard earned $USD.

PLEASE?