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#51 (permalink) |
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Opelitis since 1984
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Final product
Here is what it will roughly look like as a final product.
Remember the parts will be paint grip and not galvanized. Unless galvanized is what you want. More on that later. Also note, unlike original battery boxs from Germany, you will have to fabricate something to hold the battery down. Also depending on the rust of your fuse box area. You may want to drill and install two studs to hold the fuse box in. Again, not hard to do and it keeps cost down by not doing it for you. PLease note this is a dry fit. I didn't weld any ofthis together, the fit was tight and looked real good. The fender patch would look a bit better welded down. Last edited by GoinManta; 06-08-2004 at 11:28 PM.. |
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'71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D
Blown motor = EV Conversion? |
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#52 (permalink) |
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Opelitis since 1984
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Breakdown of costs.
Kit as you see it (in galvanized, no welded seams on the battery box) - $50 Kit in PaintGrip - $85 (We have a LOT of 20 guage scrap galavanized. I have to pay for the paint grip..) Kit in Stainless (unknown) If I have the three seams of the battery box welded by the shop it will be a extra $20, trust me your welding is probably going to be better not worth it to preweld them. It also leaves room for you to "massage" its fit better depending on the condition of your car. The 2 extra screws will cost a extra $10, and since you may not need them, and again your work will probably be more accurate than my HVAC duct shops, not worth it for two 5 cent screws. Oh and if you want only the battery box - $45 (gav) - $65 (Paintgrip) So what do you all think? Charles Last edited by GoinManta; 06-08-2004 at 11:46 PM.. |
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'71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D
Blown motor = EV Conversion? |
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#53 (permalink) | |
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Über OpelGT.com Moderator
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Keith Wilford
working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon |
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#54 (permalink) |
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Opelitis since 1984
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USPS.com has a online shipping calculator for international. Each kit will be about 6 lbs with packaging I would think. US orders add just add $8 to cover S&H.
For those first brave souls (First 3 that respond via PayPal) that want to be guiena pigs, this is the deal. You have to promise you will use the product within 2-3 weeks so if there are any issues we can correct before I ship to everyone else. You will also be shipped galvanized only. Cost of playing is $25 and shipping for the kit. If you are not one of the first 3, I will email you back for the rest of the order cost. If you specifically want the paint-grip metal then a full payment will let me know you don't want to be a test subject. Fair enough? PayPal estimated shipping and price of order to "parts<at>goinmanta<dot>com" |
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'71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D
Blown motor = EV Conversion? |
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#58 (permalink) |
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Opelitis since 1984
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OK I have the three prototypes ready.. and only one taker.
This REALLY surprises me.. but I digress. I have tweaked a little more Firewall - Added a new flange to help align and secure it to the firewall, and added a little extra metal in two places. It's definately done now. Battery Box - Tightened up the hole from last time and moved it to the left a bit to make room for the battery. Its not only perfectly located now, it is a perfect size for the seal. Fender - I am pretty much done now, I added new slits, and re arranged them to make the piece form better. I think I have to expand the slits a little deeper to make them form even better. But I will let the test cases tell me how much, if at all. The prototypes got made out of 18 this time (Scrap metal is scrap after all and we were out of 20). They are noticeably thicker and heavier. I would like to use this guage, but I need to know if it is going to be too hard to weld. Again this is where the test subjects come into play. Last but not least.. good news and bad news. Bad News - I can not offer them in galvanized for the production run.. Good News - The price is now down to $75. I have to buy a whole sheet of metal at a time and it will make about 12 sets. So I will make them all from paintgrip. Also notice the fit at the corner where the three pieces meet, its really tight now.. and looks good. I can't wait to get some time to weld up my own Manta. Anyway, I need some one to test the prototype to ensure the 18GA is easy enough to weld. |
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'71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D
Blown motor = EV Conversion? |
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#60 (permalink) |
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No Access
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That is really great work. Those will add alot of life to a bad spot on those cars. Ok just where were you 15 years ago when I had 3 cars in desperate need? All you Manta owners should be beating down his door, if you don't think you have this problem then you probably haven't looked. I'm thinking about ordering just becouse I know I'll want it if and when I get another car. any plan on maybe a GT floor panel perhaps? Just asking since it's another often asked for item and makes the idea of buying one more attractive if you can get the parts. Again those look great.
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#62 (permalink) |
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Opelitis since 1984
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While I am sure it is.. it took five prototypes to get the Manta box area right, and I think even then I got one more strike at it before they are perfect.
I don't own a GT to even start to try to fitup a prototype with, as far as I am aware, not one realitively close to me that I can get access too on a regular basis. Otherwise I would love too. Charles |
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'71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D
Blown motor = EV Conversion? |
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#63 (permalink) |
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Moderator
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Charles, the panels look really good. I'll check out my Manta in the AM to see how it looks. I might need a set for it. I haven't looked under the hood in 6 months or more.
nobody & lgladdis, Bob, formerly of C&R Small Cars, used to make or had someone make the floor panels for the Gt, as I bought a set around 1990 from him and had them installed on my Red Gt that is a ground up project. I got both left and right floor panels then. Maybe he has a couple left. Jarrell |
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#64 (permalink) |
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Opel Addict Since 73
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Wheel Well Patch
Charles - Is it possible (and would it add much to the cost) to extend the tabs on the fender patch to reach farther up on the fender wells for those who have more extensive rust damage? For those whose fender wells are not that bad...they can just trim off the excess. Yes? No?? Maybe so??? It might also be helpful if the bottom of the firewall patch (where it's narrow and squared off) if that tab were a little longer so that it could be hand formed to roll up on top of the frame rail. Again...if not necessary, it can be trimmed off. Please let me know if these might be practical additions. Thanks. -Scott
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Scott D.
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#65 (permalink) |
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Opelitis since 1984
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That wouldn't be a problem. The trick with the tabs on the fender is making them easy to form, without making it too much. I guess the real question is how much would someone would need.
The ones on it stretch about 1-1/2" past where the rust stops on my fender, and my car is pretty extensively damaged, so I had thought I had already gone about as far as needed. I will go ahead and stretch it some and see how it forms up and looks like. If there is a car with more rust than what I show on the photos here please post so I can get a better idea of how much further to take it. I was thinking of making the runner a bit longer, and will do so on the next prototype. I was already contemplating making some changes to the fender patch and sending it instead of the ones I did last week. Because after I made the last batch last week, I still wasn't completely happy with the fender patch. The fender patch is definately going to be a unique piece. Charles |
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'71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D
Blown motor = EV Conversion? |
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#66 (permalink) |
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Opelitis since 1984
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OK OK.. so I am a perfectionist (to a point).
The FINAL FINAL production versions are done. I am so happy no one (other than Keith) took me up on the prototypes. Scotts comments paid big. The extra length I added to the fender patch made them easier to form and made for a much better fit. The Battery box shrunk a 1/8" and fits much nicer now. The fender patch added a bit more metal and now the fender patch and firewall patch should weld together in the valley perfectly. Scott lives only a few miles from me and since he is preped and has a welder I plan on taking him on his offer to guinea pig this final piece. Since I can be there to help it will make for a good trial run. Let me know what you think.. BTW, just found out I can squeeze a extra 4 sets from a sheet of metal. price has dropped to $70 a set. Got to love that... Charles |
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'71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D
Blown motor = EV Conversion? |
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#68 (permalink) |
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Opelitis since 1984
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OK a quick update.. went over to Scott's and dry fitted the prototype. His car was totally prepped (unlike mine) and had much more rust than mine along the channel.
So somewhat back to the drawing board to add a bit more metal to the fender, firewall and battery box areas. I was also able to compare my patch to the battery box I sold Scoot a few months ago. Mine is definately much thicker. Thiers was a stiff 24 guage, probably using a harder steel as well. Mine was not as stiff, but was much thicker. Anyway, I will update you guys once I get the next one made and get over to his place and get it welded up. |
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'71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D
Blown motor = EV Conversion? |
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#70 (permalink) |
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Opel Addict Since 73
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Salvageability
Charles - You might want to query members regarding the extent of rust on their project cars...and then use that info to formulate your patches. As you accurately noted...it's rare to see that much battery box rust without corresponding floor and frame rail rot. (the reason I bought the car) I suspect there are many Manta/Ascona bodies out there with similar rust (or perhaps worse) but it's likely that restoring them would be cost prohibitive because of structural repairs needed to the frame rails and jack pads. What's my point??? My Ascona may not be the best car from which to shape your patch kits. If you add more metal to the patches and drive up the cost...and 90% of the people buying them will simply trim off the excess...is it really worth it? If most folks don't need the extra...you might consider leaving the patches as they are. They will be a great starting point for folks like me. Then if additional metal is needed, it can be fabricated by hand like I've been doing. I think the more cost effective the patches are...the more attractive they will be to potential buyers/restorers. Of course...if the added dimensions don't add sgnificantly to the cost...then it's a moot point. JMTCW -SD
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Scott D.
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