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| Mechanical Mechanical – General Tips, Problems, and Solutions, not related to the specific systems above |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 494
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Silikroil
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#3 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,054
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Or even better yet, where did you get this stuff. It appears to be better than the "Rust Eater" I am so pleased with. Speaking of busted/rusted bolts, I had a real blast with the screws holding on the license plate light assemblies to the rear bumpers. Using max push on the heads of the screws, I rounded out the phillips heads. I drilled off the heads off the screws, used the Rust Eater again, then proceeded to break the screws off flush with the bumpers with vice grips after taking off the socket assemblies. Torch time, then I was able to use my needle nose vice-grips and turn the screws the rest of the way through the bumpers, 1/6th of a turn at a time. It took a full afternoon and evening, but I got them out without destroying the threads. Oh yeah, this is the first time the screws had been removed since installed new in 71/72. I'm finding lots of first time removals on this car.
Ron |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Opelholic
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lowell, In.
Posts: 34
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Kano Kroil
I've been using Kroil for about 17 years in the steel mill where I work. There is no doubt that it is the best penetrant out there. I have only used the canned stuff but I think I will check out the rest of their line. They claim that their oil will enter spaces 1 molecule thick. I believe them. One time a competetor of theirs called me and tried to sell me their stuff. I told them that we were happy with the stuff that we were using. He asked which product we were using and I told him Kroil. After a small pause he admitted that he had nothing bad to say about Kroil and he hung up.
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