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Old 01-27-2006   #1 (permalink)
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general Q's

Well its been a while, the old 72 gts been sitten in the garage since i ran out of time and money to work on it, mostly money, but anyways i'm back on track and put in a new water pump last week and it has been a daily driver for a week now. this means its time to work on some of the cosmetics, and i was just looking for tips on mainly the interior, i have a decent interior from the parts car but it still leaves something to be desired, would it be easyer to make new peaces myself, or buy other used ones in good shape, or are there any kits available for the whole of the interior? second, there is minimal rust on the floor panels, but just enough to let in a draft, whats the easiest and best way to fix those holes up? i'm also having a problem with my brakes sticking, they just don't quite come out all the way, i've lubed up the rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder with no results, is this a problem in the master cylinder?
i also have a few long rang goals, such as a 5 speed transmission and new rear end and drive train, is there a certain car that would be the easiest swap those with without to much machining?
sorry this is so long, i wanted to get it all in at once. any info would be greatly appreciated since this is my first car rebuild, and i would like it to be a good one, eventually. thanks a lot
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Old 01-27-2006   #2 (permalink)
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when you say the brakes are sticking do you mean they are not working if so then it may be the flex hoses have closed up, i dont know if there are intirior kits to buy but a look through the body and interior section should turn up something or have a look at www.opelgtsource.com there online cat might have something in
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Old 01-27-2006   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by baz
when you say the brakes are sticking do you mean they are not working if so then it may be the flex hoses have closed up,
Replacing the rear brake hose solved my problem.
Check this: http://www.opelgt.com/forums/group-5-brakes/7752-rear-brake-cylinders-sticking.html
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Old 01-27-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Interior wise OGTS has just about everything for the GT, except the door skins and the skins over the rear wheel wells. HTH.
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Old 01-27-2006   #5 (permalink)
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if the brakes are sticking, it very well could be the rubber flex hoses, 1 near each caliper, one near the rear axle. they deteriorate inside and can act as a check valve, letting fluid go through, but not bleed off pressure, or vise versa. the Front calipers may also be "Sticky" if the car has sat for a long time. you can usually remove the calipers from the car and pop the pistons out to clean them all up well. they usually work after the caliper, and pistons are cleaned and all the seals re-installed. just about any interior piece can be had through OpelGTSource www.opelgtsource.com.
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Old 01-29-2006   #6 (permalink)
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Ive already cleaned and redone the seals on all the calipers, but the rubber hoses sound like they might be the problem. now i also mentioned the rust on the underside, i need to get that fixed so if anyone as any advice id appriciate it.
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Old 01-29-2006   #7 (permalink)
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Here is another interesting thread for your floors. It has been a while, but the last time I did it, I cut some sections of sheetmetel to cover the holes, then covered the floor area with a sound deadener like truck bed liner crud, layed the sheetmetel into the gunk and let it dry. Then cover it up with some new carpeting and all was good.

At the time, I also screwed it into place with some self taping drywall type screws, but all that did was make sharp spots to hit your head on under the car!
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Old 01-29-2006   #8 (permalink)
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sweet, that looks like itll work great, thanks
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Old 01-29-2006   #9 (permalink)
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http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthr...hlight=roofing

Sorry, I had forgot to post the thread!
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Old 01-29-2006   #10 (permalink)
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no disrespect but thats a bad idea on a unibody shell

the strength of the shell comes from being able to pass the stresses of use through the whole body so it dissipates . a screwed in patch would cause a stress raiser and the eventual failure of the shell . the only way to fix rust on a unibody is to cut out the rust and weld a fresh bit of steel in to its place

i know this would at one time have been a good fix on a car with a chassis or some of the new unibodys that are made from medium carbon steel where the only repair allowed is a bonded patch repair or a spot weld repair (new cars here can not be welded as the steel has its strength come from the stress of the presses that bend them into shape work hardening the steel ,so a weld would take the strength out of it by annealing it )
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