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Thread: T-Roy's 70 GT

  1. #21
    Hoosier Opeler Site Supporter My location rrossjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy View Post
    ...Other than the missing throttle linkage, and hood catch it all appears to be there. I did notice the hood hinge on the right has torn from the body. How big of a pain is that to fix? Looks like tight quarters to fit a person and a welding end. I could still use some photos of an engine bay to see how the linkage is set up...
    Are you planning on keeping the Holley/Weber carb? I seem to recall that the linkage for those is on the opposite side from the Weber or original Solex. I don't know if the stock throttle linkage can be made to fit.
    Cheers,
    Ron in Indy

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  3. #22
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    Thank you very, very much baddog! That helps immensely.

    Rross, no....I hope to put webers on it, but it all depends on circumstances. If the Holley is retained, I'll do my best to make it look as factory as possible.

  4. #23
    Thread Killer My location Donha's Avatar
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    Troy.....is this more of the picture of the engine bay what you want....


    headlightcable1.jpg

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  6. #24
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    Ah ha! Between you and baddog, I see more parts that are awol. I wonder why they removed the entire hood latch assembly?:banghead:

    That's one crazy looking throttle linkage, too. And I thought Jaguar had a wacked setup on the V12!
    Last edited by T-Roy; 02-07-2012 at 09:15 PM.

  7. #25
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    The plan is.....

    Since the weather is going to be relatively nice this weekend, I thought i would attempt at getting the GT fired up. The cylinders have been soaking in a little oil for a few weeks now, so if it won't turn over, it probably won't without some surgery.

    I just want to be sure I understand the schematic correctly and also so I don't ruin the coil in the process.
    • The clear "resistor wire" is a necessity for the stock coil, correct?

    • By putting an aligator clip to the appropriate fuse terminal, it should power the coil with through the resistor wire?

    • What is the purpose of the wire going from the positive wire of the coil to the terminal on the starter solenoid?

    • The red/black wire on the starter solenoid is the correct one to "jump" the engine?


    Any input will be greatly appreciated.

  8. #26
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy View Post
    • The clear "resistor wire" is a necessity for the stock coil, correct?
    A short term hot wire is OK..just to fire the sucker up.
    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy

    • What is the purpose of the wire going from the positive wire of the coil to the terminal on the starter solenoid?
    see above
    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy
    Any input will be greatly appreciated.
    HTH
    Last edited by wrench459; 02-15-2012 at 12:08 AM.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  9. #27
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    It lives!!!!

    After a little troubleshooting on the ignition, cleaning some contacts in the dizzy and a little fuel in the bowl, it fired up pretty easily. It won't hold idle, which isn't a surprise. I'm sure the carb is in need of a rebuild... It has some tappet noise, which I'm assuming is normal?

    I poked around on the wiring to see what all needed addressed. I found all but 1 fuse "blown". Most looked like the link had been pulled off instead of burnt. I haven't looked for replacements, I gather they are still available?

    Headlights never would come on, so I took the bucket covers off to inspect the wiring. Right side is Ok and the light worked with a "jumper" wire from the battery. However, lots of smoke came from the left and upon inspection, I see that the plug is completely different than the right - and the wires have all cooked their sheathing off - hence the smoke. Fixing all that will be a project, I'm sure. It wasn't shorted at the pivot point, but right at the plug. Weird...

    Lots of work ahead, for sure, but it's good to know it runs.

    Next month, the motor in the Mustang is coming out for it's freshening and goodie pack. As soon as that's back together, we'll start taking the Opel apart and fixing what needs fixed to get it street worthy again and tinkering with the body.
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  10. #28
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy View Post
    It lives!!!!
    ...It has some tappet noise, which I'm assuming is normal?
    Cool another running GT.
    The solid lifters are a tad noisy.
    FI intake :: video-2011-05-08.mp4 video by wrench459 - Photobucket

    Another audio/video that has normal lifter noise.
    Last edited by wrench459; 02-18-2012 at 07:34 PM.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  11. #29
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    I took the carb off today to get the numbers and order the rebuild kit. Noticed the car has a header - is there such a thing as factory headers or is this definitely an add on. I'm thinking with the Holley, someone has tried to soup it up along the way.

  12. #30
    Southern Red Neck My location BQS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy View Post
    I took the carb off today to get the numbers and order the rebuild kit. Noticed the car has a header - is there such a thing as factory headers or is this definitely an add on. I'm thinking with the Holley, someone has tried to soup it up along the way.
    No factory headers on any of the street cars unless it was like a Manta B I400 or such. GT's never had any, so, what you have is aftermarket done by a PO.
    "Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"

  13. #31
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    Holley carb back on and runs/idles just fine. Started ticking petty loud - then quit. Hopefully it was just a momentary sticky tappet.

    Installed the stock gas pedal and attempted to rig up the crap cable that was on the Hot Foot the PO installed. That didn't work, so....is there a favored brand of throttle cable for those who have converted theirs over?

  14. #32
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    I finally got my other toys in a situation where I wasn't under any pressure to get one of them fixed or something. It seemed like a cascading event of breakdowns and such from one toy to the next.

    Anyway, pushed the Opel outside to power wash it, see what paint blew off revealing any hidden surprises and get 30 years of grime and neglect off.

    The best way to judge a car is to wash it, right ?

    I was pleasantly surprised to find very little paint blew off and no larger problems than what was originally suspected. The chrome is pitted, but otherwise OK. Not great, by any means. The interior cleaned up very well - surprisingly well! As soon as I get a few things lined up, I'll be able to put the factory seats from lowkey in it.

    Brakes are non-existent. Found that out the hard way.

    Aaaaand that's about as far as I got with it. Had to tune up the wife's chainsaw. Lord knows what she's got planned now.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401766824.861782.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1401766833.317227.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1401766848.668753.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1401766856.695259.jpg

    Getting ready to fab up a throttle cable next.

  15. #33
    Kid at heart Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    cool five oh
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  16. #34
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    Today we made a little progress. Got it up on stands to officially mark it as "in progress".

    I picked up a super clean tank from lowkey on a hedge that mine would be full of varnish, rust and crud.

    My hunch paid off. It sounded like the Sahara desert was in there.

    Pulled the wheels to inspect the bushings and boots. Just as I suspected, all weather checked. Too bad, otherwise, they don't look worn. The odometer says 76k, I'm beginning to think it hadn't been rolled over. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1402106440.850859.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1402106455.740803.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1402106471.077638.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1402106479.299805.jpg

  17. #35
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    It's been 4 years!

    4 years since I bought my GT and lurking on the site. My 5.0 sold this month, so I've got a nice wad of Opel money waiting to be spent. I've been accumulating parts throughout the last few years, so I have quite a few replacement parts and spares. Hopefully, I'll pick up another parts car this weekend for some key items I've been looking for.

    Anyway, the front suspension is down and ready to be disassembled. I bought a chunk of square tubing to make the tool to get the spring out. The plan is to get the !" lowering spring, I already have the bushing kit and ball joints, so it's just a matter of 'doing' rather than walking by it.

    One of the plans is to upgrade the engine to a 2.0. I understand that is a new set of pistions and valves, plus a few other goodies, but is it worth the $$? I also plan on putting one of the torquer cams from OGTS in there, too. It already has the header and 2bbl.

    I'm going to work on getting one of my engines torn down in the next few weeks for an evaluation of bore and valve guides. Anything else out of the engine building norm I should watch for? By the stamps on the blocks, both my engines are standard compressoin 1.9s.
    GoinManta and MikeNotigan like this.

  18. #36
    Owner of EZ2Wire.com My location GoinManta's Avatar
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    Awesome.. !
    CURRENT
    '71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (2.0 L w/ EFI & Auto) - "Mary Ann"
    '74 Opel Manta - "Barbara"
    '05 Pontiac GTO

    In the past owned:
    '06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
    '73 Commodore GS
    ATLAS ( 74 Manta w/ 2.8L LK5 )
    '73 Blue Max Manta Luxus
    & at least 20 other Opels

  19. #37
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    Troy, regards to the 2.0 conversion: I had a chance to drive SciFiGuy's old 2.0 Red Baron GT, to get a feel for it, compared to my old and tired, 75hp low compression 1973 GT. I believe his had the combo cam in it, that gave it a more pronounced & lumpy idle. With the exhaust he had on that car, and the dynamics of being surrounded by a brick wall, left me with the impression that car had a small block Chevy in it. A nice sound, it was. His car had the 38/38 Weber, an MSD high energy ignition and a sprint manifold. Both of our cars are automatics. One drive and it immediately made a night and day impression on me, compared to my car. Sound, throttle response; the car felt eager to jump off the line while mine just wheezed along. It convinced me that the 2.0 makes the GT feel like a different car.

    There seems to be a lot of questions on our forum about the Combo cam, in particular, getting it to run right. Poster Frozen Tundra GT is one worth picking his brain in this matter. Not sure if the problem lies with the cam grinder, be it Norris or Isky, but it's something worth looking into, with past threads, on this very topic.

    But short of the high dollar 2.4, the 2.0 sounds like the way to go. Best of luck with your GT's rebuild.

    Mike
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  20. #38
    Owner of EZ2Wire.com My location GoinManta's Avatar
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    Missed the whole 2.0L comment..

    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/6f-engi...tml#post994041

    Totally worth it..

    If you are rebuilding anyway.. the cost of doing Chevy Valves vs just replacing and having the head done isn't much.

    Bottom end as well is not much more cost than going to 1.9L High Compression Pistons or doing just rings.

    Total cost about $2000 and almost a doubling of HP.

    As for Cams.. the OR-66 ( The Combo ) is the standard swap in. Personally I wouldn't. Some have had problems with them recently, and they in general are finicky.

    But not a lot of options anymore, unless you go to europe. Personally if it were me, and your stock cam specs out at the machine shop, use it. Also a 32/36 on the stock cam is smoother and easier to tune than a 38 (or 32/36) on the OR-66. Long story short, what you "lose" in not upgrading the cam, you "gain" in the motor being easier to tune.

    Your talking a 50-75% upgrade in the power by doing the big valves and going 2.0L so its not like its "losing" much by sticking with the stock cam.

    So if you already have a 32/36 and are looking to get bang for the buck and save a few dollars but still improve the car and power.

    Sticking to the stock cam, and 32/36 saves you at least $600, over the cost of a new cam, lifters, and 38 DGAS.

    So overall dollars to doughnuts, upgrading the motor to 2.0L pistons w/ Chevy Valves, stock cam and 32/36 is the sweet spot.

    A lot of this was went over in : http://www.opelgt.com/forums/fuel-in...ve-recipe.html
    Last edited by GoinManta; 02-23-2016 at 03:34 PM.
    69whitegt, MikeNotigan and T-Roy like this.
    CURRENT
    '71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (2.0 L w/ EFI & Auto) - "Mary Ann"
    '74 Opel Manta - "Barbara"
    '05 Pontiac GTO

    In the past owned:
    '06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
    '73 Commodore GS
    ATLAS ( 74 Manta w/ 2.8L LK5 )
    '73 Blue Max Manta Luxus
    & at least 20 other Opels

  21. #39
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    Alrighty! Just got back from IL where I picked up another GT from seeker. I was only after the glass, but it looks like there are several bits, like an operational hood hinge, that I'll need for mine. A running engine and drive train is a bonus and will be added to my inventory. So, I'm happy with the acquisition.

    I have another thread where I cut up a previous parts car, this one will be posted there, too. I'll be stripping parts, so if there's something specific you need, let me know.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  22. #40
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    It was HOT in northern MO today, but there was a nice breeze blowing through the shop. Managed to get the engine/transmission out and poke around a bit to see where it is going to need some TLC from a body man. Typical rust in the front wheel well, the drivers is much worse than the passenger. Looks like a good intention, but overall bad design depending on a rubber flap seal to keep all the crap out.

    Other than cutting, welding and resealing, any tips on fixing this area?

    Next up is to start disassembling the engine and getting it to the machine shop. While it's there, I'll keep sanding and poking around in prep for a body shop.
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    Last edited by T-Roy; 06-19-2016 at 12:02 PM.

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