T-Roy's 70 GT - Page 3
OpelGT.com is the premier Opel GT Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 41 to 60 of 72
Like Tree25Likes

Thread: T-Roy's 70 GT

  1. #41
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    MO
    Posts
    143
    Real Name
    Troy
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    Pulled the heads from two of my engines. One is a 10 bolt with 69 stamped on the middle of the head, the other is a 12 bolt. The running engine out of my car is the 12 bolt and has the dished pistons. The parts car was the 10 bolt and had the small reliefed pistons. From what I'm reading, the 10 bolt 3 bearing head is the more desirable one, correct? Should I use the dished piston block for the 2.0 upgrade and keep the other block intact or keep the block/head together and store the pistons for a later day?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. Remove Advertisements
    OpelGT.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #42
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    6,422
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy View Post
    Pulled the heads from two of my engines. One is a 10 bolt with 69 stamped on the middle of the head, the other is a 12 bolt. The running engine out of my car is the 12 bolt and has the dished pistons. The parts car was the 10 bolt and had the small reliefed pistons. From what I'm reading, the 10 bolt 3 bearing head is the more desirable one, correct? Should I use the dished piston block for the 2.0 upgrade and keep the other block intact or keep the block/head together and store the pistons for a later day?
    Correct on the head.
    The block really doesn't matter but if you wanted to get persnickity then you'd measure the cylinder wall thickness and pick the thicker one.

    The 69 head sort of requires the 69 timing cover. You can use the other one but will need to make sure you have the right head gasket to match the timing cover deck height.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  4. #43
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    MO
    Posts
    143
    Real Name
    Troy
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0

    Off to the machine shop!!

    The head is off to the machine shop with a copy of the generic big valve recipie in the machinists hands. He said, "...hope you're not in a hurry..". Hmmm....

    Meanwhile, I continued my teardown of the front end to prep for sandblast and either paint or powder coating. I haven't decided just yet. I ran into a couple of hiccups, though. The nuts for the shock absorber (top) are spinning the rods. I've looked at various tool shops in town and nobody carries the socket and wrench that allows you to hold on to the shaft while turning the nut. (If this weren't a car forum, I would have hesitated posting that...) Any tips on how to break those free before I order the tool online?

    Second, I burned out the upper and lower control arm bushings, and retrieved the inner sleeves on the uppers. The lowers, however seem to have welded themselves to the knuckle. I have new ones in my kit that I would like to use, so is there a slick trick to removing those? If not, I'll have to figure out a way to clean them up and reuse.

    Any tips appreciated!

  5. Remove Advertisements
    OpelGT.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #44
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Cöllingswööd, NJ
    Posts
    9,474
    Real Name
    Gördö
    Downloads
    6
    Uploads
    0
    You might be able to accomplish this feat with a pass-through socket set:

    21 Pc SAE & Metric Go-Thru Socket Set

  7. #45
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Milner, GA.
    Posts
    11,175
    Real Name
    Dan
    Downloads
    12
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy View Post
    The head is off to the machine shop with a copy of the generic big valve recipe in the machinists hands. He said, "...hope you're not in a hurry..". Hmmm....
    I don't know your exact term of generic..
    First you'll want a true surface on the cyl. head.
    Next punch out the guides for bronze.
    Now that you got a good center.
    Cut the seats for hardened inserts...exhaust.
    You can go full tilt with hardened intake seats also... (unneeded for street usage).
    Next up is the spring package.
    This is sort of tricky because there be a water passage under the exhaust spring lands.
    Next up is valve seals.
    I would highly suggest perfect seal type.
    Next up is porting...well lets not get into that.
    So yes it takes some time fur sure. :-)

    P.S. If the mechanist can get the stem heights within .004 That guy is a keeper!
    Last edited by wrench459; 08-04-2016 at 07:37 PM. Reason: more info

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  8. #46
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    MO
    Posts
    143
    Real Name
    Troy
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    Generic is ftom the thread on here "generic big valve recipie", which has quite a discussion on what types and sizes of valves to use. When he gets closer to starting on them, he's supposed to call and go over exactly what he's going to do, so I'll be sure to take what you've said to him as well. He's very popular within the racing/pulling truck scene around here, so he's pretty backed up with all that right now. That's what he meant by not being in a hurry. He did the GT40 heads on my Mustang and did a superb job.

  9. #47
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Milner, GA.
    Posts
    11,175
    Real Name
    Dan
    Downloads
    12
    Uploads
    0
    I like to keep the intake-exhaust valve ratio around 80% as a rule of thumb.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  10. #48
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Spofford, NH
    Posts
    12,381
    Real Name
    Bob Legere
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    I recommend reading thru this: I did a 'porting a big valve head' thread that got out of control, but in post #128, there is a nice PDF created by a forum member that cuts to the chase.

    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-en...ml#post112235p
    My Flickr photos.
    C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04, D.M.L. 9/19/50 - 6/23/10
    E.G. Sauer 2/26/66 - 2/18/10. Rest in peace big guy...

    '70 GT 'Bonnie', '71 Ascona 4-dr turbo - winter beater, '71 Ascona 4-dr 'Turd' - rallycar, '72 Manta Rallye - hillclimb car, '72 Ascona wagon - 'Red', '72 Manta - caged street car, '73 Manta Luxus, '73 Ascona 2-dr, '74 Ascona 2-dr - Project X, '74 Manta Luxus - factory sunroof, '74 Manta ITB racecar, '75 Manta, '75 Sportwagon, '75 Manta - racecar

  11. #49
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Spofford, NH
    Posts
    12,381
    Real Name
    Bob Legere
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    I like to keep the intake-exhaust valve ratio around 80% as a rule of thumb.
    75-80% is usually good, 77-78% with a well ported intake is muey bueno....

    Above 80% you're wasting fuel, losing power, and running hot for no reason.
    wrench459 and Viny Charb like this.
    My Flickr photos.
    C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04, D.M.L. 9/19/50 - 6/23/10
    E.G. Sauer 2/26/66 - 2/18/10. Rest in peace big guy...

    '70 GT 'Bonnie', '71 Ascona 4-dr turbo - winter beater, '71 Ascona 4-dr 'Turd' - rallycar, '72 Manta Rallye - hillclimb car, '72 Ascona wagon - 'Red', '72 Manta - caged street car, '73 Manta Luxus, '73 Ascona 2-dr, '74 Ascona 2-dr - Project X, '74 Manta Luxus - factory sunroof, '74 Manta ITB racecar, '75 Manta, '75 Sportwagon, '75 Manta - racecar

  12. #50
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Spofford, NH
    Posts
    12,381
    Real Name
    Bob Legere
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    This thread is newer and probably has better pics and descriptions, even though it's for a race head.

    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-en...opel-head.html
    My Flickr photos.
    C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04, D.M.L. 9/19/50 - 6/23/10
    E.G. Sauer 2/26/66 - 2/18/10. Rest in peace big guy...

    '70 GT 'Bonnie', '71 Ascona 4-dr turbo - winter beater, '71 Ascona 4-dr 'Turd' - rallycar, '72 Manta Rallye - hillclimb car, '72 Ascona wagon - 'Red', '72 Manta - caged street car, '73 Manta Luxus, '73 Ascona 2-dr, '74 Ascona 2-dr - Project X, '74 Manta Luxus - factory sunroof, '74 Manta ITB racecar, '75 Manta, '75 Sportwagon, '75 Manta - racecar

  13. #51
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Milner, GA.
    Posts
    11,175
    Real Name
    Dan
    Downloads
    12
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    75-80% is usually good, 77-78% with a well ported intake is muey bueno....
    The intake porting is a bastard...very hard to recreate.
    I'm like Goy I hate you Bob.
    RallyBob likes this.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  14. #52
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Spofford, NH
    Posts
    12,381
    Real Name
    Bob Legere
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    The intake porting is a bastard...very hard to recreate.
    I'm like Goy I hate you Bob.
    Well if it was that easy, everybody would be doing it. Then we'd have a RallyWrench, RallyGoy, RallySciFiGuy, etc....

    You've got it easier than most, you've actually got a chunk of an old cylinder head with the double-fin port design in front of you. Nobody else does except Roger Wilson!
    My Flickr photos.
    C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04, D.M.L. 9/19/50 - 6/23/10
    E.G. Sauer 2/26/66 - 2/18/10. Rest in peace big guy...

    '70 GT 'Bonnie', '71 Ascona 4-dr turbo - winter beater, '71 Ascona 4-dr 'Turd' - rallycar, '72 Manta Rallye - hillclimb car, '72 Ascona wagon - 'Red', '72 Manta - caged street car, '73 Manta Luxus, '73 Ascona 2-dr, '74 Ascona 2-dr - Project X, '74 Manta Luxus - factory sunroof, '74 Manta ITB racecar, '75 Manta, '75 Sportwagon, '75 Manta - racecar

  15. #53
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Milner, GA.
    Posts
    11,175
    Real Name
    Dan
    Downloads
    12
    Uploads
    0
    Gads this is the intake port that I eluding to..

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  16. #54
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    MO
    Posts
    143
    Real Name
    Troy
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    I recommend reading thru this: I did a 'porting a big valve head' thread that got out of control, but in post #128, there is a nice PDF created by a forum member that cuts to the chase.

    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-en...ml#post112235p
    Thanks RallyBob. I'll look through this, too.

  17. #55
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    MO
    Posts
    143
    Real Name
    Troy
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    More wrenching on the front suspension getting it ready for the blaster. Got those darn shocks off, finally. One nut simply twisted off, so that was easy, the other took some more oomph. Anyway, they are off and the crossmember is ready.

    Now, for the not so great news. one of the lower arm knuckles has a bolt that broke off inside the inner bushing sleeve. It's going to be a bastard to get situated to drill out while it's still in the arm. So, I managed to get one outer sleeve off, but how in the world does the inner sleeve come off?!? I have new ones, so I'm not too worried about destroying the old one, but my lord, it won't budge! Heat, penetrating oil...more heat. Anybody have any experience getting these off? This is the last piece to prep before sending it off.

  18. #56
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    MO
    Posts
    143
    Real Name
    Troy
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    After lots of cursing, heat, drilling, oil, more heat, more cursing.....a beer......more heat, left handed drill bits and an easy-out, we got the snapped bolt out. Everything is off to the blaster/powder coating finally. Now, on to the next phase, the rear end and prepping the block for machine work.

    Also looking at what it will take to put together a rotisserie.....

  19. #57
    Opeler
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    2,198
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy View Post
    <snip>
    Also looking at what it will take to put together a rotisserie.....
    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/2d-body...otisserie.html

    Like this low cost wood version.
    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/2d-body...otisserie.html

  20. #58
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    MO
    Posts
    143
    Real Name
    Troy
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    More progress. The first batch of parts are back from powder coat, they look pretty good so far. Assembly will start as soon as I can get a couple of lower outer bearing sleeves from Gil and a few other odds and ends.

    Back to the head: From the thread "Generic Big Valve Recipie" I've gathered that the following parts list would be a good start for the machine shop.

    Intake Valves Manley#11522 cut down to 1.72" ordered these from Summit
    Exhaust Manley # 11521 1.50" ordered these from Summit
    Valve springs Isky 905-D works with cam lifts up to .450-.460"
    Retainers Isky 507ST steel retainers

    I plan on taking this information along with the PDF version of Bob's porting instructions. If anyone see's a potential disaster with this, please speak up before I ruin a good head. I'm mostly worried about the springs and getting the right height and pressures. I suppose I could reuse the existing springs, but if they've been sitting for quite some time, I can't imagine that they are all still in good shape. I suppose the machine shop can check them out for me first.

    The block is down to the crank and ready for the machine shop, too. Anything in particular that I should tell the machinist other than bore it for 2.0 pistons and check the crank?
    GoinManta likes this.

  21. #59
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    6,422
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Send the pistons with the block. Have the machinist match them.
    T-Roy likes this.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  22. #60
    Member T-Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    MO
    Posts
    143
    Real Name
    Troy
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0

    Stuck caliper pistons

    Holy smokes.....what have I got myself into. What I thought would be a relatively easy rebuild has proven to be a big pain in the arse.

    While I'm waiting on the machine shop to do it's thing on the head and block, I've been work on the front suspension. I have most of it back together and am now working on the calipers. I bought a rebuild kit from OGTS since the pads look practically new on the set I pulled off the car. However!!! The damn pistons will. not. budge. The are all the way in, so there's no room to compress them to break them free. I've tried air. Nope. Putting a grease gun on the bleeder valve and using that to push them out. Nope. Can't get a grip on them with any of my pliers, etc., so I'm at a dead end. Any ideas? Worst case, I'll break the halves apart and see if I can get them out somehow.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

    Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •