T-Roy's 70 GT
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Thread: T-Roy's 70 GT

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    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    T-Roy's 70 GT

    Well, here we go guys and gals. I brought this one home Sunday and fianlly got the chance to snap some "Before" pictures of our little GT. I imagine this will probably spend the majority of this summer tucked away in the corner since I want to get my Mustang done before I dig too far into a new project. Who knows, though, the boys just might get an urge to start on it.

    I've since re-attached the steering column.

    What do you all think? I paid $750 for it.
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    Last edited by T-Roy; 01-28-2012 at 10:30 PM.

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    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    Looks like someone already tried to make do with an aftermarket battery tray

    The hood hinge will have to be repaired

    In all, the quarters and rockers are in decent shape
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    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    I can't quite figure out what the PO had in mind with this gas pedal. It's so far forward your knee is almost to your chin. Would someone post a picture of what the stock pedal looks like.

    The rust on the rocker is the only place it has made it through. The rest of it is surface rust. The arches and other panels look to be solid.
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    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    Carb is not original, not solex or weber, maybe a holley. Some PO may have kludged together some sort of linkage out of parts that required pedal relocation. The pedal is normally about where you'd expect it to be, sorry I don't have a picture and mine is apart right now.
    Thurston County, WA, effective motto: "Gophers, Gophers Über Alles"

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    Southern Red Neck My location BQS4's Avatar
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    Just a observance....the carb is probably a Holley possibly? Definitely not a Weber.
    "Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"

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    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    The rust is a little scary, maybe fixable but it will be a lot of work. How are the floorboards?
    Thurston County, WA, effective motto: "Gophers, Gophers Über Alles"

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    Pans are in good shape. The rust on the lower rocker is the worst of it all & I've been down that road before with a 74 Jag. It's fixable. The other spots are surface and look worse in the picture than it really is. Some good sanding and prep work should take care of it.

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    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    Ya, it's a Holley. I haven't studied the spacer they used, yet. It won't stay when it all goes back together.
    GeorgeOpel likes this.

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    I ran something very close years ago
    Autolite_Motorcraft 2100.jpg

    Worked great!
    Last edited by wrench459; 01-28-2012 at 11:31 PM.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Sick with Opelitus My location broszzy's Avatar
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    That gas pedal looks like it was borrowed from a boat, you are probably missing all the carb linkage too. I'll snap a pic of mine

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    Opeler Site Supporter My location vk2000's Avatar
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    I think...

    ...you got a great deal! And yet another GT is saved to ride again.

    I bought my first GT in MO in 1884 for $1500 and it was in worse shape than that one. Congratulations and good luck - all the resources you need are right here.

    vancek

    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy View Post
    What do you all think? I paid $750 for it.

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    1000 Post Club Viny Charb's Avatar
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    The reality of things are that the rust you see is only about 33% of what's of all the actual cancer growth. My car look much better then yours but every rusty panel had two or three other panels behind it that no longer existed. Even my floor pans and rockers looked great but ended up needing hundreds of hours of work. Every single assumption I made was wrong!!!:banghead:
    You'll probably also find the ends of your rocker panels in front of the rear wheels no longer exist.

    I'm not tying to discourage you nor do I mean to be negative. It's all repairable, one piece of steel at a time. Hell I did!
    And If I'm wrong then it's to your own advantage. Good luck, and have fun!

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    Member My location Gordy's Avatar
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    I bet the gas pedal was put together so someone short could drive the car. The GT is great for tall folks because the seat goes way back but shorter peeps have a real problem reaching the gas pedal because the seat only goes so far ahead. I would think that when you remove that little piece of engineering you'll be able to go right back to the stock set up.

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    Hoosier Opeler Site Supporter My location rrossjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordy View Post
    I bet the gas pedal was put together so someone short could drive the car...
    I was thinking the same thing, Gordy.
    Even though I am over 6', I need to stretch to reach the accelerator with the seat all the way back. The linkage used with the Holley/Weber carb shouldn't necessarily change the position of the gas pedal.
    T-Roy, This looks like a fair amount of body work, but it sounds like you are up for the challenge. It appears the car isn't missing much, so assuming it is a runner (or can be made to run without any major engine work) I think $750 is a fair price.
    Good luck with the restoration, and keep us posted.
    Cheers,
    Ron in Indy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Viny Charb View Post
    The reality of things are that the rust you see is only about 33% of what's of all the actual cancer growth. My car look much better then yours but every rusty panel had two or three other panels behind it that no longer existed. Even my floor pans and rockers looked great but ended up needing hundreds of hours of work. Every single assumption I made was wrong!!!:banghead:
    You'll probably also find the ends of your rocker panels in front of the rear wheels no longer exist.

    I'm not tying to discourage you nor do I mean to be negative. It's all repairable, one piece of steel at a time. Hell I did!
    And If I'm wrong then it's to your own advantage. Good luck, and have fun!
    I checked the rockers, quarters and wheel openings rather close and it all appears to be factory and in decent shape. I hope you are wrong, too, but I'm prepared for the worst.

    That gas pedal contraption has to be one of the best cobble jobs I've seen in quite awhile.

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    Got a chance to go out and tinker with the GT tonight to start building a "to do" list and recon mission for needed parts from my new GT Source catalogue.

    Hooked up 12V to see of any smoke came out of anywhere....luckily nothing. BUT, the only thing that did come on were the dash lights, rear tail lights and hazards. I rotated the fuses to knock off some crud, but that's all that would come on. I'll mess with all that later when I have more time and a multimeter.

    Other than the missing throttle linkage, and hood catch it all appears to be there. I did notice the hood hinge on the right has torn from the body. How big of a pain is that to fix? Looks like tight quarters to fit a person and a welding end. I could still use some photos of an engine bay to see how the linkage is set up and what all I'm missing from the hood release.

    The dash must have been replaced along the way, VIN on it is 772894503 and the door states 7/70 942261496. It's titled as a 70, no pop out windows and has all the other clues for a 70. Threw me off at first, though.

    Pulled the spark plugs, they all look relatively new! Well, for 30 year old plugs anyway.... (the car was last inspected and plated in '82). I saw the tops of two pistons (2 & 3), haven't dug into crank timing to see if that's good or bad, yet. Feel free to say "Yay" or "Nay". From what little I could see, the bores and piston tops are clean....meaning there hasn't been any water sitting in them. So, barring any unforeseen obstacles, the darn thing should turn over. Just gotta figure out which wires to short out on the solenoid.

    Can you run a hot wire to the coil without burning the dash down?

    Tank didn't smell to varnishy, but it'll need cleaned for sure. I'm sure most of it's evaporated away and is all crusty by now.

    Headlights rotate smoothly, transmission shifting feels "goopy", but that may be normal, I don't know. It's free and engages in the right places, anyway.

    Seats...I'm not sure on those. They sure don't look like any of the pictures I've seen. I suspect they aren't original, which explains the plywood "adapters".

    This is gunna be fun!

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy View Post
    Pulled the spark plugs, they all look relatively new!
    Can you run a hot wire to the coil without burning the dash down?
    This is gunna be fun!
    Sure hot wire the coil and fire the old girl up!

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Member My location Gordy's Avatar
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    Good news on the dash lights and tail lights coming on. If they came on when you rotated the headlights open (rather than by turning on the parking light switch) that indicates that the micro switches behind the headlight assembly is doing it's job and it's only a relay in the fuse box which is bad and keeping the headlights from coming on. As stated before, inspecting the headlight wiring from the plug by the lights back thru the rotator to prevent a fire is a must before going too far with the headlights.

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    Member T-Roy's Avatar
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    Surely someone has some engine bay pictures they would be willing to share??

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    Some engine bay pics...

    Quote Originally Posted by T-Roy View Post
    Surely someone has some engine bay pictures they would be willing to share??
    Here ya go. Nice to see you showing the old girl some luv
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