and find bulb cross reference. they ship super fast!
might need a load resistor not sure.
and find bulb cross reference. they ship super fast!
might need a load resistor not sure.
I went to Superbrite and bought their best: 45-LED Tower Type 1156 & 1157 Bulbs
Big bucks. $25 a bulb! Their cheapest were $15. I didn't want to deal with any disappointment with something as important as brake and turn signals and wish I'd coughed up the extra dough for the good stuff. I'm sure I probably paid more than if I'd searched around, but I've bought from them before and I was very satisfied with them.
I only bought 4 bulbs to do the rear lights of my trailer, so the front trailer lights will be inop for now. I'm hoping to be able to run them in tandem with the normal bulbs in my car. If all goes well and I really like them, I'll buy a set for the car and use the bulbs from the car to light the front lights of my trailer. I have the upgraded flasher from OGTS already.
On ebay, I also bought TWO sets of the Toyota Corolla rear side marker lights that I put on all my cars. So my comin' 'n' goin' trailer will now have side marker lights front and rear. I still have to beg, borrow, and cobble together EIGHT half-decent rear lense housings, gaskets, and lenses. Donations accepted.
Also, I successfully cleaned the protective oil off of the 4' x 8' sheet of galvanized I bought to act as the skin of my trailer. I was really worried about getting that stuff off of there. It was resistant to many cleaners. Scotchbrite pads, with some mineral spirits, and a final cleaning with the Marine Clean from my POR-15 system supplies got'er dun. Now that it was finally exposed to the air, it started turning white with the protective zinc oxide corrosion almost immediately. Tomorrow I'll put primer for galvanized metal on both sides of the sheet.
Got the trailer titled and registered today, too. No inspection required, so I can move ahead with cutting it down to size and modifying the crap out of it. Nothing crazy, it'll still be the same design with same number of bolts, just shorter. The leaf spring will have to be repositioned to maintain a 60/40 weight balance.
45 led? Holy canoli....I have at least 4 tail light housings with good lenses for you maybe all eight.
Youre going to look like a spaceship coming down the road. You need to upgrade to a big alternator now...jk
Maybe for front trailer lights just use the standard Sylvania bulbs..
Pm me your address and ill get the tails in mail by Monday at the latest.
Looking good man... Is galvanized gonna chip paint, or cleaning off coating achives more adhesion...
I'm just worried because anytime I have ever seen painted galvanized if it flexes or gets tin canned paint flakes off because of surface flex. It sounds like you have it all figured out tho.
If you are going to put bulbs/lenses in the "front facing" tail lights, they should all be yellow. If you ever noticed any trailer, the only red bulbs are the ones behind the rear wheels. Don't want "the man" to tag you on something silly. If you are going to put red lenses on the front part of the "rear panel", just don't put bulbs in those. The side marker lights up front should also be yellow.
1972 Opel GT, Owner since 1983
2001 Saab 9-5 SE 3.0 Turbo V6 Weeeeeeeeeee!!!
1973 GT, Parted out, R.I.P.
1968 Kadett, Owner since 2006, Sold, 28 June 2008
Thanks for the great tips and the nifty diagram, Jeff!
I think I'll nix the idea of wiring up the front lights. There's just no point to it. I'll probably just install the lenses and stuff just for show.
Yesterday I gave both sides of my galvanized a good soaking in white vinegar and another cleaning with Marine Clean. This morning I wiped off a phenomenal amount of zinc oxide dust (like a tablespoon’s worth from each side) and then used a roller to apply the STIX primer. The large amount of zinc dust was a good thing and indicates that I had done a good job of getting the factory film off and that the vinegar had done a good job etching the metal.
Over the past week I shortened and repositioned things on my trailer chassis to match my box/form. I cut out the cargo compartment opening did extensive measuring, cutting, and reinforcing of the wheel wells to match the fenders that came with the trailer. It was difficult to mark the angles and make sure that things were spaced and level while dealing with the curved surface of my form. Despite my best efforts, I goofed the angles for the downward sloping parts of the fenders. No problem, I can make the angle correction when I trace the form onto the sheet metal.
Tomorrow I will take my sheet of galvanized and fold it over my form, get it adjusted just right, and lightly tack the metal to the form in a few places. Then I will take the whole assemblage off the trailer and turn it upside down. Finally, I will trace the outline of the cargo compartment opening and the wheel wells, plus mark where any excess material needs to be removed. The next part will be really tricky: Cutting out the metal, especially the center opening, without warping or tweaking the metal. Tin snips are out of the question and I don’t think a razor knife will cut the mustard, so the plan going forward is to use my hand jig saw. If that doesn’t work I’ll have to use my hand-held angle grinder with a cutting wheel on it.
Here’s some pics:
An update on my progress:
A reinforcement piece of the pvc board was added at the midpoint of each side and it serves multiple purposes:
1) Stabilizes the top of the wheel arch.
2) Reinforces the fuselage where it’s most likely to get bumped.
3) Seals the rest of the structure from road dirt, water, etc.
4) Provides a place to attach the trailer fenders, which had to be raised 5” from where they originally attached to the trailer chassis.
In this picture you can see that I’ve attached my treated and primed galvanized metal sheet around and over the previously attached and trimmed down thin pvc “skin”. The pvc now reinforces and stiffens the sheet metal. The wheel arches have been cut out to match the trailer fenders. I used 1/8” thick 1” wide aluminum strips to reinforce and make my wheel arches gnarly. There are two in each location, one on the inside and one on the outside, with the sheet metal/pvc sandwiched between them.
In these pics you can see the trailer fenders test fitted in place. They were previously attached to the trailer chassis with bolts through the sides of the fenders. Since they needed to get raised 5”, the reinforcement board allows me to mount them with bolts screwed through the TOP of the fenders, which actually makes them more secure with no chance of vibrating or flapping when driving.
The new axle was wider than the original one and had the tires hugging the outside of the fenders. Remounting the fenders to the reinforcement board allowed me to easily space each fender 1 ½” farther out so that the tires are in the middle of the fenders.
It’s plain to see at this point that my contraption is looking less and less like an Opel GT that had it’s rear end chopped off. Well tough! Live with it!
However, the fact that my creation derives it’s strength from it’s internal framework and everything, including the skin, is SCREWED to that framework, I am presented with a unique design direction. All of the bolts and screws visible on the outside of the thing will be decorative stainless steel allen and phillips head bolts with ringlets around them. The strips of metal around the wheel arches will be painted black with stainless bolts and they have a decidedly retro early industrial look. I will be extending this motif elsewhere, since it dawned on me that this thing has a “Steam Punk” look. That’s appropriate. It is after all, a trailer for my Red Baron car. That means WW1 and things from that era had nuts and bolts and a big clunky rivets look. Like an early locomotive.
It might not look a whole lot like an Opel, but it will look cool.
P.S. I ended up using the angle grinder with a cutting wheel to trim the sheet metal.
Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 07-23-2012 at 09:08 PM.
This weekend I got the end panels attached and started trimming the excess sheet metal back.
I decided to use carriage bolts to attach the end panels to the inner frame/box. Making them totally independent of the sheet metal fuselage eliminated all sorts of complex, unpleasant, and time consuming alternate methods of finding a way to bond the panels to the fuselage.
I brainstormed for weeks on how to join the panels and the sheet metal together to hold the panels on. I considered cutting the fuselage into strips as I trimmed it back and drilling and riveting them together. I contemplated resin and fiberglassing them together. I gave much thought to riveting or screwing into wood blocks or right angle metal brackets on the inside. All of these ideas required grosse arbeit and wouldn't have made my Frankentrailer as strong and trouble free as simply suspending the panels at the perfect angle with stand off bolts.
Doing so has presented me with a totally unexpected option: Not hard fastening the fuselage to the end panels at all. Another benefit: No body putty and virtually no sanding to blend and hold things together. The plan is to simply trim back the sheet metal until it's just 1/8" or so overhanging the end panels and simply slip some edge molding over the edge of the sheet metal. Done! I'll passively fill and unite the metal and the fiberglass with spray foam or liquid nails caulk from the inside
I could use the stuff you put on the edge of your car doors to prevent nicks when you bump something when opening them. I'm still exploring what other sorts of sheet metal edge moldings are available.
The cool benefit is that now the entire contraption is easily disassemblable. I can literally break the whole thing down into it's constituent parts in about 20 minutes. If the sheet metal gets dented or some other part suffers damage, I can just unbolt/unscrew it and replace it.
Presently, the fuselage is only roughly trimmed back. I just have to give it a precision trimming and take care of a few other fuselage "adjustments" and this baby is ready to be painted.
Then I'll be able to do all the fun stuff of dressing it up and installing the wiring/lights, the tarp cover, and making the inside look purdy. Here's the pics:
It's been brought to my attention that some of you can't see the pics in this thread.
Here's the link to my Das Boot album where the latest pics of the project are displayed:
Yesterday, on my trailer, I wrapped up the body adjustments, trimmed back my dual-tail panel metal to leave exactly 3/4" of metal over hanging the panels to accept edge molding, sanded my edges, and threw some primer at them. Today, I just have to remove the aluminum strips from the wheel wells and invent and implement a marking system so that I can put them back in the right spots(They're going to be sanded, primed, and painted black, then reinstalled after the body is painted). I'll tidy up those edges and prime, then I need to get it out of the basement(fumes) to that I can use that STIX super-primer on various areas of that pvc stuff that will be visible(wheel wells) or that will later need to have something glued to it(spray foam, liquid nails, etc. on the inside).
Hopefully, I'll then be ready to take it over to Maaco after work on Monday.
Meanwhile, I may paint iron crosses on my wheels, pursue the trailer hitch installation on the car(including permanent removal of the Baron's bumpers), and the whole car and trailer lighting modification phase. The tarp needs an iron cross ironed on it today. Man, the guy who made my tarp left me no wiggle room with it's installation. Each eyelet needs to be precisely placed within 1/8". I guess I can see why: You don't want this type of boat-covering tarp to flap around at highway speed. In the pic below, I exactly measured out the centers of my pvc panels around the top opening, then drew them on a hunk of plywood, and screwed the twisty hold-down thingies at the appropriate places. Pre-fitting the tarp on the twisties, I now know where to make adjustments when I install it on the trailer.
Here are pics of the tarp test-mounted on a hunk ’o’ plywood:
I dropped the contraption off at Maaco on Monday and I picked it up today(Wednesday). They totally hated having it in their shop. They said “We don’t like working on stuff like THAT.”
I probably won’t post about this again until all the dress up, edge trim, and lenses/electrical stuff are installed and it’s mounted to the trailer chassis, ready for the highway.
Maybe I’ll show the hitch attached to the car next. Here’s pics:
They may not like working on things like THAT, but that did not keep them from taking your MONEY. I hope that you let them know your displeasure with their attitude.
I was gonna wait on posting anymore pics until “The Thing” was all done, so you guys could have a WOW! moment, but it’s just looking so cool and so much better than I originally imagined, that I just have to share it.
In these pics, all of the trim, edging, and decorative bolts have been installed, plus the tarp and wheel arches. I POR-15’d all my aluminum strips. The edges of the cargo compartment have shiny black edging and decorative bolting that you can’t see right now with the tarp fastened down.
Next comes lense installation and wiring and I have a secret “something” in mind for the front lense openings that y’all are gonna have to wait for.
Gordon,,,,, I think you need to hang a mock twin tip exhaust on the back of THAT thing.
What ...we got here...is........failure......................... to communicate....
Some men,you just cant reach...so you get what we had here last week...which is the way he wants it.
Well, he gets it...I dont like it, any more than you men...
Very nice job, Gordon! The sheet metal idea was a great one as it captures the tumblehome of the GT rear end perfectly. You might be onto a small cottage industry with this one, Red Baron TrailerWerks, LLC.........
Now a new dilemma: What brand of beer did the Red Baron drink?
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