24v Ascona Wagon Upgrade - Page 16
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Thread: 24v Ascona Wagon Upgrade

  1. #301
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Had the wagon aligned the other day. I never set the toe after I rebuilt the rack and added new tie rods. All the other 'Before' settings were done with a plumb bob and tape measure.
    I reversed the right front upper ball joint to bring the Camber into spec.



    Next up, adding Cruise Control!
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    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
    www.alt-opel.us
    @opelgary


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  3. #302
    2000 Post Club Site Supporter My location P.J. Romano's Avatar
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    It always pays to align the wheels. The car handles better and the tires last longer.
    Especially with flimsy GT suspension, I like to do it every 2-3 years. I don't care about alignment by string and similar shade tree mechanic methods. For $110 what they charge for front and rear alignment, I save 100s of dollars worth of my difficult to find tires. Well done Gary.
    Old racers never die. They just go bench racing.

  4. #303
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P.J. Romano View Post
    It always pays to align the wheels. The car handles better and the tires last longer.
    Especially with flimsy GT suspension, I like to do it every 2-3 years. I don't care about alignment by string and similar shade tree mechanic methods. For $110 what they charge for front and rear alignment, I save 100s of dollars worth of my difficult to find tires. Well done Gary.
    Cost me $65. I was a little hesitant about bringing it to that shop as my good friend who did the alignments there had retired. The "kid" who did it was pretty sharp and he said that it was "So nice to work on a custom instead of doing a run of the mill alignment".
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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  6. #304
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Cruise Control is in!

    Had a minor issue with the charging circuit on the 3-wire mid '90's GM alternator. The "idiot" light was staying on but the voltmeter showed ~14 volts when running.

    The way that light works is one lead is connected to a switched source and the other to the "L" wire on the alternator plug. When the key is turned on, 12v flows through the lamp to the alternator and grounds there. When the alternator is spinning, 12v comes out of the "L" wire and the lamp goes out as there is no longer a ground. No output from the alternator = lamp on.

    I only had 3.4 volts coming out of the "L" wire and there was some discoloration on the plugs terminal which could be from high resistance due to a bad connection. Digging a little deeper on the 'net showed that alternator works best with 35-350 ohms resistance in that circuit. I replaced the stock bulb with a neon lamp and the resistance was only ~14 ohms.

    I installed a new plug and ordered a 50 ohm, 5 watt resistor from eBay. ($9.00 for 10, boy, do I miss my local Radio Shack)

    Stay tuned...
    guyopel likes this.
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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    @opelgary


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