Vivian Revival - Page 3
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Thread: Vivian Revival

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    You should give Opels unlimited a call for a panel.
    As much as I feel that you would be dealing with the devil, sometimes you just have to buckle under and make the deal.

    If you are going to replace an entire panel, get a spot weld cutter. It will make the process much easier and cleaner.
    am I reading this right or did I have 1 too many hot toddy's?

    Im going to the casino and picking up a few powerballs.
    poor gt (R.I.P) likes this.

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  3. #42
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen Tundra GT View Post
    am I reading this right or did I have 1 too many hot toddy's?
    Hey, if you want to call him "Toddy", and think he's hot, who am I to interfere.
    poor gt (R.I.P) likes this.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  4. #43
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    A local buy allows you to inspect the part you need prior to purchase, to negotiate directly with a private seller based on what you see and not his backstory or overhead, and to avoid complications like packaging and interstate shipping of a large odd-shaped part which in some cases requires crating or trucking.

    Lots of CO parts cars come out when the weather gets nicer, and saving some bucks with this approach also provides finances and motivation for a road trip in a beautiful state.

    Consider this local ad, the seller writes that he is 'negotiable' and the price for a complete car may be less than you are asked for just a couple panels.
    http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/4391806619.html
    Last edited by Anonymous D; 04-02-2014 at 01:06 PM.
    opelnut_1 likes this.

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  6. #44
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    Let the sanding begin

    Came home and spent a couple hours of bonding time with Vivian tonight. I began stripping the damaged area down to bare metal. It went well. I used a combo of electirc grinder with a poly stripping disc and a die grinder with a roloc coarse disc.

    Found a couple of interesting things along the way. The lower quarter right in front of the rear tire has a patch panel already. I also found good amount of filler already on the door mid line. I am going to work on the door but a replacement may be easier in the long run.

    Here is a pic of it stripped down to metal. The stud welder and hammers will come out this weekend.

    opelnut_1 likes this.
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

  7. #45
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    Door

    Worked on her for about an hour today. I focused mainly on the door. It is all pulled out and almost ready for a skim coat of filler.

    I'm still not sure what I'm going to do on the rear quarter. I got the flare above the wheel opening looking pretty good but in front of the wheel opening is pretty creased. If I can get at it from the inside then I may have a chance. If I can't, then I may cut it out and weld in a new piece of steel.

    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

  8. #46
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    You can get to the inside of the rear quarter.
    Look under the panel inside the car, in front of the inner wheel well, behind the B pillar. There's a "triangular" opening that allows access.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  9. #47
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    Hammer time

    I removed the inner vinyl panel and worked the quarter panel for about 4 hours today. I had to cut a seem along the back edge of the door frame in order to push that back. Most of the metal is really close to where it should be now. The plan now is to cut the seem all the way down the door frame edge so that I can bang that foward to create a perfect gap with the door. Then I am going to cut a 2-3 inch wide strip to repair the seem and make it perfect. The metal along that area was the most damaged and very creased. The places where I could hold the dolly behind it look good but I can't get behind all of it. It is actually coming out way better than I thought it would. I am by no means a pro body guy but am learning as I go.

    What do you think? Any tips before I cut and weld. Any thoughts on the skim coat? I will probably use some dynaglass along the lower wheel lip and along the door frame edge to make it perfect. Then skim coat it with Evercoat Rage Ultra and ultimately LOTS and LOTS of block sanding.

    poor gt (R.I.P) likes this.
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

  10. #48
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    That deserves an ATTABOY, nice work, a far cry from what you had to start with, keep the pic. coming, be back on the road before you know it .

  11. #49
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    Ready for filler

    So today I created a repair panel and welded it in behind the door frame. Then I ground down the welds. I am going to scuff it up with some 60 grit and start laying down my filler. Anyone have any preferences between Evercoat Rage Gold or Extreme??



    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

  12. #50
    2000 Post Club My location poor gt (R.I.P)'s Avatar
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    I have used the Ever coat reg, & Gold on several cars in the last 10 yrs. Great stuff, never had a problem, nice smooth stuff.

  13. #51
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    dyna glass

    I spent a couple of hours today and layed dyna glass along the door frame to make my gap perfect. I also used a little on the lower front of the wheel opening. There were some major creases there and I like the dyna glass better to build up the deep spots than body filler.

    I also started disassembly of all the bumpers lights and markers. My goal is to have the body ready for epoxy primer in about 4 weeks, then lots of sanding to get it ready for base/clear. What kind of paint did they come from factory with, single stage? Acrylic or enamel?

    Look at the door gap, not perfect yet but pretty close.

    sawdust and poor gt (R.I.P) like this.
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

  14. #52
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    You have to look at the tag in the engine compartment for the color code and type. Looking good.

  15. #53
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    update

    No pictures today, just an update. I am in the non-glorious stage of sanding. I disassembled all the lights and markers. I found a few small dings and dents that I will fix with the Rage Gold. I ordered the epoxy primer from Eastwood, should be here Weds. After the primer I will use Rage gold then primer those spots again.

    My birthday is coming up and I asked the wife for the Eastwood Powder Coating kit. I want to powder coat the front turn signal housings, the screen for the front opening and maybe the front and rear bumperettes. I like the contrast of the chrome bumpers with the black. I am looking at different striping ideas using a black gloss vinyl stripe or stripes. Fireglow orange and black looks sharp.
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

  16. #54
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    Acofficer, Sounds like you are well on your way to being back on the road soon. I think the Fireglow Orange & black combination will look badazz, I like the blk. powder coating of some of the exterior parts for accents, How about the door handles while you're at it good luck, we still want pic.

  17. #55
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    corners and sanding

    Today I put about 4 hours in. The rear trim piece had a big dent in the top corner. I could not figure out any way to fix it other than dynaglass. I filled it and sanded it back to perfect.

    Then I started sanding the whole body down. I got the rear, rear deck, rear quarters, roof, and doors sanded and ready for primer. Then to give myself a break from the sanding I worked on the front passenger corner. There was a small dent on the corner but the bigger problem was the underside. It looks like the PO hit a curbstone pretty hard. I struggled for a couple of hours banging it back out. There is one spot about 4 inches long the was right under the stock bend that I could not get to. I tried using the stud welder but this sheet metal is so thick it is not very useful. It is going to get more dynaglass (more than I had hoped).

    Rear corner fixed:


    Front lower valence:
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

  18. #56
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    dynaglass

    Tonight I layed the dyna glass down for the front passenger nose piece. It is the underneath portion that is barely visible when the car its on its wheels. I am gonna seal it with epoxy primer afterwards. I get the feeling that rocks and pebbles are going to chip and crack it, but don't know what else to do.

    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

  19. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acofficer View Post
    Tonight I layed the dyna glass down for the front passenger nose piece. It is the underneath portion that is barely visible when the car its on its wheels. I am gonna seal it with epoxy primer afterwards. I get the feeling that rocks and pebbles are going to chip and crack it, but don't know what else to do.

    The last GT, after painting it, I used a 4" roller, and rolled the belly pan, gave it some texture, but didn't chip in 8 yrs. I stayed back from the front about 4 or 5 in. Like you said you can't see that area. I use a single stage paint also

  20. #58
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    You know, depending on the color of the final paint job, there might be nothing wrong with rolling on some actual truck bed liner on the underbelly of the belly pan. It would be ultra durable.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  21. #59
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    sanded

    Today I sanded the front nose pan down. Again, after the epoxy primer I will use some Rage Gold to smooth it out to perfect.

    sawdust likes this.
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

  22. #60
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    Before painting, check to make sure areas like where the grille attachment screws go are aligned and solid.

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