Vivian Revival
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Thread: Vivian Revival

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    Opeler Acofficer's Avatar
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    Vivian Revival

    Vivian breathes again!! I started her up today after her two year sleep and boy did she purr. I am gonna use this thread for all of the work I do to her. So far she has a new Weber 32/36, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

    I cleaned up the engine by degreasing it and painting the valve cover. I am going to clean and paint everything as I go through it. I took off the entire air assembly and painted it gloss black.

    But here is my first question for all of you. I put the 1/4" phenolic spacer between the car and heat shield. Then I am using the ogts weber to stock air cleaner assembly adapter. My problem is the carb assembly is now too tall for the hood to close. Here is a picture.

    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

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    trim

    Who else has run into this and what did you do? I think if I trim about 3/4" out of the air hat that goes on top of the carb it may fit, but I don't wanna cut it till I hear other options.

    Here is the setup without the hat that I plan on trimming.

    Last edited by Acofficer; 03-24-2014 at 09:44 PM.
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

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    Member dsmith's Avatar
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    That is what I did when I threw away the solex and put that set up on my 72 GT, and it still would rub the hood a little when the motor torqued.

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    Kid at heart Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    belt sander may work.

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    1000 Post Club My location Dale .D's Avatar
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    It seems your adapter is the problem. OGTS sells one thats much shallower and fits over to the stock air filter.nice car

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    I did like alot of others has done.
    5.25 with a cry-sler bonnet


    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    trim

    @dsmith -- So if I am correct you successfully trimmed down the air hat the goes on top and attaches to the hose? If that works, out comes my dremel.
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

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    Kid at heart Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    where are all those vacuum lines going to off the carb?

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    There are a few options. You can acquire another air cap, one that you can experiment with trimming and so you can retain your original air cap as it is. There's one on Ebay selling cheap right now. Or you can purchase a Weber air filter kit with a 1" shorter element.

    If finances aren't a concern the full dome kit will not only provide better clearance but will also provide cooler air to your carb too.

    Opel GT Air Filter Assy | eBay

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    vacuum lines

    Im not totally sure on the vacuum lines. I just re-did what was on the old Solex. One goes to the distributor advance. One goes down to the cannister down by battery (what is that thing?) and not positive on the third one, looked like an egr but I am not super familiar with this engine yet.
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

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    Resident Curmudgeon My location Opelmel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsmith View Post
    That is what I did when I threw away the solex and put that set up on my 72 GT, and it still would rub the hood a little when the motor torqued.
    Same here. Some rubbing at first, but taking a bit more off fixed that.

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    Kid at heart Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acofficer View Post
    Im not totally sure on the vacuum lines. I just re-did what was on the old Solex. One goes to the distributor advance. One goes down to the cannister down by battery (what is that thing?) and not positive on the third one, looked like an egr but I am not super familiar with this engine yet.

    Check this out Message - Opel Photo Gallery

    FOund here- check out the other goodies and morsels too http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-ti...s-threads.html

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    1 down now problem number 2

    Today I trimmed about 3/4" off the base of the air hat and now it fits like a glove. Whole air intake is cleaned painted and re-installed.

    So now problem number two. She was on the trailer and I decided it was time to come on down. She fired right up and sounded great, revving to 3000 rpm no problem. As I put her in gear she started to sputter and die. I looked and the dizzy had turned a little. I reset it and tightened it down. She fired right up and I backed her off the trailer and boom, she died. Now I can't get her to start again. Totally sounds like an ignition problem to me. I looked inside the cap and saw a little ground wire that goes from the base of the points to the wall is toast. Then I pulled the lead off the coil and it was all wet. I am guessing this is a bad thing.

    I played with the timing a bunch and still no go. Good thing my pertronix ignitor and coil showed up today. Im gonna push her in the garage and I will switch out the ignition and let you know.
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

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    Tuning can involve issues arising from more than just one component.

    Incorrect vacuum hose connections and the possible presence of vacuum leaks
    will also affect your idle response and ignition timing advance, for example.

    Check all the Opel guides you have for technical references related to tuning,
    and evaluate all possible locations where there could be a vacuum leak, before
    presuming your fuel supply and ignition timing are consistent across all RPM ranges.

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    This sounds like fun...
    due to the design of the front mounted dizzy
    which is being "pulled down" while running...

    Believe it or not there's no need for a hold down :-)

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    vacuum

    I have worked on a bunch of carb'd engines and I am pretty sure it is ignition related. With a minor Vacuum leak they will usually still start, but run rough. I had her running beautifully. Idle was smooth, revving up sounded clean and smooth.

    Now she pops and sputters and won't start. I already had to the ignitor and flamethrower so I will swap that in and see what happens.
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

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    plug gap

    I am going to try and put in the new ignition parts tonight. I was curious what I should open the plug gap up to. Right now I have them gapped at .030 I was thinking of opening them up to .040 with the 40,000 volt flamethrower. Any thoughts or what has worked well for you?
    1971 GT 1.9
    1972 Jeep Commando
    1975 International Scout II
    1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    1990 Jeep Wrangler

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    2000 Post Club My location poor gt (R.I.P)'s Avatar
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    With the fireball ing. system, I gap the plugs at 0.40 works fine, I have tested a lot of plugs, the best seem to be the NGK 7331 or the NGK BPR6HIX-Iridium for a few bucks more.

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acofficer View Post
    I am going to try and put in the new ignition parts tonight. I was curious what I should open the plug gap up to. Right now I have them gapped at .030 I was thinking of opening them up to .040 with the 40,000 volt flamethrower. Any thoughts or what has worked well for you?
    Let's see if this will work...
    .040 gap
    [URL=http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/wrench459/Ignition/040gap.mp4]
    http://s250.photobucket.com/user/wre...ml?sort=3&o=12

    .060 gap

    [URL=http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/wrench459/Ignition/060gap.mp4]

    LOL I'll have to work on my links :-)

    As the sparkplug gap is opened up you might run into a quirk.
    I call it carbon-tracking.

    Carbon-tracking happens when it's easier for the voltage to go around the "gap" and down
    the insulator instead.
    It really shows up well on a scope when this happens.
    The trailing edge of the "burn" time will slope downwards....due to not seeing the increase of combustion pressures.
    Last edited by wrench459; 03-27-2014 at 08:28 PM. Reason: clear as mud

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    2000 Post Club My location poor gt (R.I.P)'s Avatar
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    Wrench, Those plugs appear to be gaped quite a bit more than .040 & modified to boot, not surprised at the carbon tracking, never have had that problem w/this gap What have you been running those in ?

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