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Thread: Saving my 2.2 (engine documentation thread)

  1. #61
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anonymous D View Post
    Double-check the piston height relative to the block once it is reassembled, to assure adequate valve clearance at higher RPM's. Sometime a block has been decked and you don't know it.
    That is a very good reminder.

    The block I'm using has been rebuilt at least once before. Not a good rebuild but one never knows if it's been machined.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

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  3. #62
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    The new block made it to the engine stand today.

    I figure I have quite a bit of time with a wire wheel left to clean off the residual paint and surface rust. There's even surface rust inside the block. I am pretty sure it won't hurt anything to leave it there but will take the time to get as much as possible off.

    If I can stand the heat after work then I'll get at it. Until the mosquitoes come out, that is.

    Pictures to follow.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  4. #63
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Before derusting











    Attached Images Attached Images
    Trevil likes this.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

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  6. #64
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    And these



    Trevil likes this.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
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  7. #65
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Rust removal is a PIA.



    I have been using a twisted wire wheel on my angle grinder for the bulk of the rust and then following that with a quick wipe of the wire wheel on a dremel-like device.

    Then I use a vinegar soak and let it sit for a bit. Then wipe it, again, with vinegar.

    The vinegar soak is just rags saturated with vinegar and left in the sun. It's a big difference than just wire wheeling.

    I'll finish it off with a quick wet rinse of water, followed by alcohol to dry the water off faster than it can oxidize.

    Still working on the logistics of my powder coat oven but hope to get that set up soon.
    wrench459 and poor gt (R.I.P) like this.
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    Humans are not an endangered species!
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  8. #66
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Nice progressive gif .

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  9. #67
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    And this is the other side.




    Although the wire wheel and vinegar worked awesome, the finish started a new layer of patina pretty quick. It also left some spots in my brand new cylinder walls where vinegar splashed in.

    The cylinder came clean with very little effort.

    I thought it might have beent he residual vinegar on the surface that was causing the new layer of patina so I decided to rinse it off with water. Since it's 95 degrees outside, I figured the water would flash off before any oxidation would occur. I was wrong. It oxidized the second the water was off the surface.

    Next I took the dry paper towels I was using and scrubbed the new rust off as best I could. Then I hit it again with the wire wheels real quick so it was clean again.

    I'll probably hit the outside again right before powder coating.



    Next up, on the inside, I'm going to try a new process. I'll report back how it goes.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  10. #68
    Kid at heart Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    coca cola or do it right with phosphoric acid.

  11. #69
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen Tundra GT View Post
    coca cola or do it right with phosphoric acid.
    Vinegar is Acetic acid (diluted) which works as good or MUCH better than coca cola would. Phosphoric acid, sulphuric acid, hydrochloric acid... whatever. It's all acid.

    I have access to Muriatic acid in bulk as well but I'd rather stay away from an acid approach, especially on the inside of the engine.

    And coca cola? I would be drinking that! (even though I prefer Pepsi)
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  12. #70
    Kid at heart Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    Did I say inside of it?

    phosphoric acid is different in the fact it etches the metal and leaves a surface ready for paint or powdercoat. it doesnt flash rust afterwards.

    acetic acid works amazing, but you must treat right afterwards. muriatic is strong as hell, and dangerous.

  13. #71
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen Tundra GT View Post
    Did I say inside of it?

    phosphoric acid is different in the fact it etches the metal and leaves a surface ready for paint or powdercoat. it doesnt flash rust afterwards.

    acetic acid works amazing, but you must treat right afterwards. muriatic is strong as hell, and dangerous.
    Muriatic acid is just hydrochloric acid. You know, the stuff in your stomach that dissolves food.

    I've heard that about phosphoric acid and might consider using a light treatment right before I coat the engine but the stuff I am using now is not going to burn anything and is pretty impressive on the first application.
    Last edited by First opel 1981; 07-13-2014 at 02:27 AM.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  14. #72
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    I pretty much took the day off but chemical derusting product has begun.

    I tested it last night on the inside of the engine, on the side of #1 cylinder and this morning it looked MUCH better. The side of the other three cylinders are soaking right now. I will clean them tomorrow and then start treating the other side.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  15. #73
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    The rust removal commences.

    Now I'm working on the inside of the engine.

    I am using a rust removal product that I'm quite pleased with. I haven't done the whole engine yet but this is the preliminary results.






    I have done both sides of the block and will do the faces of the bearing journals soon.

    I'm still brainstorming on how to do the journal faces. It was easy to do the sides of the block because I coul rotate the engine on the stand. That gave me an angle to hold the paper towels that I saturated with chemical. It had to sit that way for 24 hours.

    The journal faces are on a 90 degree angle. I don't know if the paper towels will have enough contact at that angle.

    I also think I should borrow some shop rags from work. The paper towels got a little dodgy.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  16. #74
    Opeler jayhawkjesse33's Avatar
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    Update?

    How's the progress coming along in this?

    Eric

  17. #75
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayhawkjesse33 View Post
    How's the progress coming along in this?

    Eric
    I took a break to get my Orange GT ready to go to the Tacoma meet but ran into problems. Ended up just taking my blue one instead.
    Then, while at the Tacoma meet my blue GT had a slight issue that needed tending to and I also got a hideous sunburn so I've been staying indoors all week while I shed my skin.

    I plan on getting back to it this weekend.

    I have all the rust removal, that I'm going to do, done on the block. I've had the main bearing caps derusting for a couple weeks so those are good as well.

    My next step is to get the powder coating thing set up so I can get the block colored. Then I will start the assembly.

    Pictures will follow soon.
    guyopel likes this.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  18. #76
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Tomorrow (Saturday, March 28, 2015) I am powder coating the 2.2 block.

    I have it 3/4 masked. The other 1/4 is still attached to the engine stand.

    I used a walnut blast to get as much paint off as possible. I figure if it won't come off with the media blasting, it won't separate under the powder coat. I.E. it should be fine.

    I will show pictures when it's done baking and back on the engine stand.
    poor gt (R.I.P) likes this.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  19. #77
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Today was a powder coating day

    Son and I started powder coating this morning. The only thing on MY agenda was my 2.2 block. Since I own the poder spray gun and the oven, I can take my time.

    And, it was a learning process. I don't like learning processes. ~L~

    First thing I did was take my prepped block and dusted it off. I spent a little more time cleaning off the light surface rust that was there using walnut media. A quick process.
    I also hit, again, the few spots of residual discoloration that was stubborn. It was a pointless endeavor.

    After cleaning off the walnut dust, I taped the block with the special high temp silicone tape, required for masking when powder coating. To save on the tape I used old aluminum printing plates to fill in the large areas (seen in the pictures below.

    I preheated the block to 200F, as outlined in a few youtube tutorials on powder coating large objects.

    The block was removed with the aid of four head bolts left in the top of the block.

    It was a little windy today but I was still able to get enough powder on the block.

    I sprayed the block with a pseudo chrome powder and placed it in the oven.



    I baked it for 35 minutes at 400 degrees to allow for the metal to be fully saturated with the head, again specified in a few youtube videos.

    Then I opened the oven and allowed some heat to bleed off. I left it for 15 minutes on a 65 degree day, thinking the temp would bleed down to about 200F for the second coat (candy green). Then removed the block from the oven again.

    I started spraying the block with the candy green pigment and it didn't look like it was being attracted to the block. After a few adjustments to the electrode contact I realized that the powder WAS being attracted th the block but was fusing on contact. THE BLOCK WAS TOO HOT. Oh well, I have to finish what I started so I sprayed the block hot.









    I placed the block back in the oven and gave it another 35 minutes. Then another 15 minute cool cycle and removed it.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  20. #78
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    This is the final result.





    On one side some of the discoloration on the block, that I couldn't remove, bled through and showed in the green. What's really odd is that it didn't bleed through the chrome powder, and that should have isoleted it from the green. But, there it is in all it's glory.

    I am pretty sure the alternator and starter will hide the majority of the discoloration and it's only on one side so I will live with the results.And here is the engine on the stand...





    And another with the timing cover in place.




    What's important is that I can begin assembly, whenever I have some spare time and can play in my garage. (Long story)


    Here is what I learned today

    Preheating an engine block to 200F is a good idea.
    Baking an engine block for 35 minutes at 400 degrees is a good idea.
    Allowing an engine to cool back down to a MINIMUM of 200 degrees before the second coat is a MUST.
    Candy powders do weird stuff and should be experimented with a LOT before applying to something like an engine block.
    Contaminants CAN show through after being sealed with a first coating.
    Silver (pseudo chrome) is a VERY forgiving pigment to work with.

    OH, and for something else to consider, from my years working with ceramics...

    PREHEAT large items, beyond the curing threshold temperature, to gas off any contaminants and allow to cool thoroughly before beginning. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
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    Last edited by First opel 1981; 03-29-2015 at 01:56 AM.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  21. #79
    Member My location guyopel's Avatar
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    What I do on engine parts is heat the part then let it cool down (200 deg.) then wipe down with acetone to remove oil (use clean rags to blot and not wipe) then reheat again until no oil is on surface.
    You did a good job and it will payoff in how clean it will remain.
    Guyopel
    I have not failed - I've merely found 10,000 ways that won't work."
    ---Thomas Edison
    It's amazing what God lets man get away with when lightning is so cheap. Mark Twain

  22. #80
    Can Opeler Knorm65's Avatar
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    Saving my 2.2 (engine documentation thread)

    Wow that's incredibly beautiful! looks good! Why do you have to heat it though? Is it necessary for the next coats to hold? I didn't heat my block because I figured the engine heat running would take care of it. But my paint isn't that fancy haha!

    Edit: I went back and read your reasoning! I see now.
    "Mira," 1970 Opel GT ARA AC, European 2.0L and Weber DGAS
    "Kara," 1972 Opel GT Targa "Fancy Rat Rod"

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