Saving my 2.2 (engine documentation thread) - Page 8
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Thread: Saving my 2.2 (engine documentation thread)

  1. #141
    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slracer View Post
    Slightly off topic and totally non-Opel, but this is a good place anyway! I have installed a 60-2 crank sensor on my single cylinder Honda motorcycle engine for Bonneville. In reading through the documentation again, it says there is a 9000 rpm limit. I am now trying to find out what causes the limit and getting no answers (but maybe if I learn to speak Chinese I would have a chance)! The only thing that I can think of right now is a limitation in the ability of the sensor and/or ECM to respond quickly enough? The EFI setup was "given" to me ($100 was a gift) as the PO couldn't make it work. I have another competitor that uses them on all of his small displacement singles and loves them and he has offered help so I am trying to get the unit installed and ready for "tuning". My questions are 1. should I just ignore the manual and charge ahead? 2. Or because the manual doesn't specify a trigger ring, just a range (36-1 to 60-2), does anyone think a 36-1 would work better at the higher rpm (36000 "teeth per minute" vs 60000 or 1.667 times the "read" time per tooth. I am a complete newbie at this, so be gentle!

    Doug
    Theoretically the higher tooth count could offer better accuracy but implementation is definitely a factor. At some point it is more efficient to poll the sensor than to depend on interrupts, which is great for sensor read performance but could steal cycles from other computational demands. A multicore cpu would make it easier to poll. It would be useful to know cpu idle time at the highest desirable RPM to see if the cycles are there (headroom).
    Thurston County, WA, effective motto: "Gophers, Gophers Über Alles"

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  3. #142
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwschumm View Post
    Theoretically the higher tooth count could offer better accuracy but implementation is definitely a factor. At some point it is more efficient to poll the sensor than to depend on interrupts, which is great for sensor read performance but could steal cycles from other computational demands. A multicore cpu would make it easier to poll. It would be useful to know cpu idle time at the highest desirable RPM to see if the cycles are there (headroom).
    With modern ECM's they have enough wasted time.
    All they need to do is pop the injectors and control spark...
    in there off duty time
    It's also talking to the other modules via the high speed legs..
    The anti-lock and stability is a few

    Air bag is also high speed...just sayin.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  4. #143
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    Thanks all for the replies! This is an extremely simple (as EFI goes) system which I am using on my 100cc (90 with an overbore) Honda pushrod engine. It has a bunch of "hot rod" parts and held the 100cc Production Pushrod record for 3 years, but I am now moving to Modified classes so the motor doesn't have LOOK stock anymore. Here is the system for all who are interested:

    Small Engine Fuel Injection Kit - Small Engine EFI conversion kit

    Doug

    PS - Highjack over!

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  6. #144
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Initial setting on the rockers, the backyard mechanic way.

    Many people aren't aware that there are standard measurements all around. My parents taught me that when they used to set points (incorrectly) with the cellophane from a pack of cigarettes. The cellophane on a pack of cigarettes is about .0025" and even a double layer of that won't get you to .014 or so. What DID get close, back in the day, was a standard business card that was almost always .012"

    Now with the artsy fartsy designers out there (I'm in the printing business) a business card can be anywhere from .008-.024". I hate those extra thick ones!!

    BUT, there's still a standard measurement for setting the valves. It is a simple dollar bill.

    A dollar bill is .0045" which translates to just a little over .1mm
    EIGHT dollar bills translate (close enough) to 1mm.

    Why is this important?

    When setting hydraulic lifters, the book says to touch and then turn 1/2 turn more. Which, in essence, is the book saying to compress the lifter piston .5mm (10x1 threads, 1/2 turn is 1/2 mm). I believe Gil says 3/4 turn is better. So that's .75mm.

    OK, so the dollar bill. Basically it works like this.

    The dollar bill has just enough texture to it to "grab" a little when pulling out of the correct tension on a dry hydraulic lifter. A feeler gauge has very little drag so it's hard to gauge when you are at the sweet spot before adding your 1/2 or 3/4 turn. Plus you have to calculate the amount of the feeler gauge and how much of a turn to add to compensate for that.

    With a dollar bill, the calculation is easy but it's even easier for you if I just say it outright.

    Setting the proper tension on the hydraulic lifter is as follows.

    Assuming you are on the flat spot on the cam, Place a dollar bill between the top of the valve and the rocker. Start tightening the 15mm nut til the dollar drags when pulling it. That gives you a .0045" gap which is equal to 1/8mm or also considered 1/8 turn.

    So, whether you are going by the book or Gil's recommendation, add an additional 1/8 turn to the nut and you are there. OR, as I do, split the difference between the book and Gil's recommendation and tighten the 3/4 turn which, subtracting the thickness of the dollar, gives you 5/8 turn or also 5/8mm of compression on the piston of the dry lifter.

    Of course this is about hydraulic lifters so it's more of an arbitrary adjustment anyhow.

    (for points, 4 layers of a dollar bill is correct).

    And for anyone that doesn't know... credit cards are .030" so if you need an emergency setting for a spark plug, put a dollar on a credit card for .0345 or a credit card by itself for .030 (the credit card can be off by as much as .0015" but they are usually within .001")
    I was in the credit card printing industry for over 10 years. UGH!
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  7. #145
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Home Made Oil Dam

    I have all the valves set for 5/8 turn after touching so it's all set to install the head.

    First, I thought it was a good idea to put in the oil dam. I know there are the ones from Gil and I know several people have made their own. The following is what I did for mine.

    I started with a WATTS brand A-732 Brass Pipe coupling



    I measured the hole for the oil return in the head. It measured 15.43mm on the bottom of the head but 15.13 on the top part of the head. I det 15.2mm as my target point.

    I turned the fitting on the lathe to 15.2mm at the top 1/4" of the cut. I added a slight taper from there to the end to 15.0 leaving 1/4" hex part, at the top, chucked up in the lathe. This way it slides in all but the last 1/4 inch where I will press fit it the rest of the way.



    Then I flipped the brass piece around in the chuck and proceeded to drill the threads out using a 1/2" drill bit.



    This will limit the restriction of the return oil flow to allow the maximum amount of return without endangering the strength of the brass to maintain the tight fit in the head. It adds 1/4" of oil in the head before it begins to return. It should suffice as a good protection without impeding performance.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    INSTALLED!

    Using a 4" C-clamp to press it in the final 1/4" was pretty easy.



    A view from above



    A view from the rear machining port



    It sits a little higher than the 1/4" intended but I don't see that as an issue. The next time I might just machine the top a little more to get the 1/4" I want.

    Now all I am waiting for is nicer weather.
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    Last edited by First opel 1981; 03-26-2017 at 07:33 PM. Reason: Edited to correct measurements.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  8. #146
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    It's time!!

    The weather is finally going to be nice enough to put the engine back in the car this week. Might even be too hot but that's OK. It's only a few hour job to get the engine sitting under the hood on the mounts.

    I'm supposed to get my motor mounts today. Might already be in the mail box.

    BUT...

    So, I took all this apart a few years ago and now I'm faced with "Where did I put those bolts?" syndrome.

    I'm Ok with just replacing them. I only need specs for a few bolts.

    Torque converter to flywheel bolts are ???

    And engine to transmission bolts are????


    Yeah, I just need to mate the engine to the transmission to get started. Can't find the stupid bolts and there's a bolt store right down the road. If I know the specs, I can just buy new bolts.

    Anyone know what bolts I need to get?
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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    Humans are not an endangered species!
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  9. #147
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Ok, so I figured out what bolts I needed.

    Bellhousing to transmission M10X1.5
    Torque Converter 3/8-16

    I bought bolts for the torque converter that I thought were short enough but they were about the perfect length. So, to be sure I made them 2mm shorter using my lathe.





    And with that information I was able to mate the engine and transmission, FINALLY, after searching my garage all day yesterday looking for the muther-luvvin torque converter (which was, ironically, right where I remembered it being).




    Next step is to prep the engine compartment. Nothing like the pros out there. I just need to clean it up. The engine goes in soon.
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    Last edited by First opel 1981; 6 Days Ago at 02:21 AM.
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    Humans are not an endangered species!
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