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  1. #61
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Smoking problem

    Looks like the Old Hag has other issues!!

    Harold

    P.S. Still working on studding the torque tube crossmember. I was unsuccessful tack welding the stud from the top. I may have to open up the inside brace in order to be successful at securing the stud.
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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    question

    Why in the world did you buy this GT?
    Repete Why in the world did you buy this GT?
    Why in the world did you buy this GT?
    You of all people would know what to look for.
    Or do you enjoy busting chops?
    Why in the world did you buy this GT?
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    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  4. #63
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Wow! YELLOW lighters! That's the best color for BIC lighters. You can always find a yellow lighter, they stand out. Can you imagine how many red lighters I have lost because I set them down on one of my cars?

    Did you know that yellow lighters get scarce in the Summer time? I've been observing this for 30 years. Come mid-Spring, it becomes difficult to find them, but tons of orange ones will now line the shelves. Then in mid-Fall they reappear again. I have no explanation for this.

    Just a horse's hiney question here: Would it be possible to drill or bolt through those torque tube mounting holes into the interior of the car and then bolt and locknut the torque tube contraption that way?





    PS: Send me those RARE yellow lighters!

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  6. #64
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Just a horse's hiney question here: Would it be possible to drill or bolt through those torque tube mounting holes into the interior of the car and then bolt and locknut the torque tube contraption that way?
    I cross threaded the body weld nut so now I'm paying for my screw up. Access to the top of the weld nut is very limited. I unsuccessfully tacked the top of the stud where it protruded through the weld nut. It broke loose when I started tightening it. Now I need to figure a 'nice' way to open it up for access so that I can grind the top of the nut clean and probably insert a bolt from the top and tack it so that it won't spin.

    Harold

  7. #65
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    The motor mount crossmember frame rail nut on the driver's side of the Red Baron died and I had to drill it out. I then drilled a 1/2" hole into the top of the "box" above it and I fished a big ole hardened allen bolt with washers down into the hole and out through the old bolt hole. I used a really long allen wrench to then hold it still while I mounted the crossmember and nutted my "stud" to hold the crossmember. It was probably a stronger set up than the oem anchored nut. I plugged off my access hole with a red plastic cap.
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  8. #66
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    The motor mount crossmember frame rail nut on the driver's side of the Red Baron died and I had to drill it out. I then drilled a 1/2" hole into the top of the "box" above it and I fished a big ole hardened allen bolt with washers down into the hole and out through the old bolt hole.
    My idea would have been easier IF I had done it successfully. Now I have to clean up the weld so the bolt will have an even surface to rest on.

    Harold

  9. #67
    UFOpel Investigator Site Supporter My location Aardvaark (R.I.P.)'s Avatar
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    KIs the cross threaded weld nut to far gone to re-tap or drill and tap to a larger dia thread?
    Or maybe drill out for a thread insert?
    Last edited by Aardvaark (R.I.P.); 07-03-2015 at 09:05 AM.
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  10. #68
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aardvaark View Post
    Is the cross threaded weld nut too far gone to re-tap or drill and tap to a larger dia. thread?
    Or maybe drill out for a thread insert?
    Reassessed the problem this morning. The current plan is to drill it out and insert a longer 'stud' so that I can actually weld the side of the stud rather than just the top. I wasn't able to get the penetration I needed from the angle I had.

    Harold

  11. #69
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    I wasn't able to get the penetration I needed from the angle I had.

    Harold

    A common problem for many of us.





    Glad to hear of your new plan of attack, keep in mind that quote from Friedrich Nietzsche:

    "What does not kill us makes us stronger."



    Think how STRONG you'll be after you get this car on the road!



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  12. #70
    UFOpel Investigator Site Supporter My location Aardvaark (R.I.P.)'s Avatar
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    Sounds like a good solution Harold.
    -Mark
    '75 Manta
    Having invested my life savings into
    this Opel Manta. I expect big returns.😅
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  13. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    Reassessed the problem this morning.... I wasn't able to get the penetration I needed from the angle I had.

    Harold
    Typical male problems that most people don't accept
    Last edited by blancojp (R.I.P.); 07-03-2015 at 05:20 PM. Reason: forgot the don't

  14. #72
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Quick update that I'll follow with pictures if the weld is pretty. UPDATE:It's not pretty. I was in a tight spot with a 110v MIG so the weld didn't burn in like I'd wanted, but it will have to do. Actually the bolt didn't turn when I tightened the nut on the bottom so it shouldn't be a problem regardless.

    I wallowed the body weld nut out with a long burr and was able to use the same burr to take most of the failed weld off from the top side. I was able to drop a bolt through from the top. I then was able to tighten it from the bottom. I plan to tack weld the head of the bolt so that it'll stay in place and not spin.

    When re-installing the head pipe I discovered why one of the studs came out with the nut. It was stripped. It was on the corner so I was able to drop a bolt through from the top to 'fix' the problem. Just one more hurdle.

    Harold
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    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 07-09-2015 at 09:49 PM. Reason: Add comment and picture.
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  15. #73
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Attaboy Harold! Nice simple solutions.


  16. #74
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Attaboy Harold! Nice simple solutions.

    Not thrilled with the way it looks but it will work until the manifold is removed. Then I'll probably have a go at a Heli Coil fix.

    Harold

    P.S. I don't plan on the removing the exhaust unless I have a real reason to.

  17. #75
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Compufire DIS-IX

    I was trying to check the timing on The Old Hag this morning and discovered that my old digital Snap On timing light doesn't work exactly as I had hoped it would. Since this is a 'wasted' spark system, I'm assuming that my advance is ½ of what my timing light is reading. Can anyone confirm that the 72° total degrees that I'm seeing is in actuality only 36°?

    Harold

    P.S. Does Pertronix own Compufire? As of, May 2015!
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 08-24-2015 at 12:18 PM.

  18. #76
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    I was trying to check the timing on The Old Hag this morning and discovered that my old digital Snap On timing light doesn't work exactly as I had hoped it would. Since this is a 'wasted' spark system, I'm assuming that my advance is ½ of what my timing light is reading. Can anyone confirm that the 72° total degrees that I'm seeing is in actuality only 36°?

    Harold
    Some of the old light bulbs don't work well with companion firing cylinders.
    1-4
    2-3
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 08-24-2015 at 12:18 PM.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  19. #77
    Member My location guyopel's Avatar
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    My timing light works correctly with that sys. You may have cheap plug wires from P.O.
    Sorry I am not much help on this.
    Guyopel
    I have not failed - I've merely found 10,000 ways that won't work."
    ---Thomas Edison
    It's amazing what God lets man get away with when lightning is so cheap. Mark Twain

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Just think that once you verified the spark.
    And set the offset to zero
    You can then adjust the spark timing within all the different cells.
    Laptop that is
    electric

    Then while shooting at some food
    up from the ground came a bubbling crude
    Oil that is Texas T

    It's Friday Night!

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  21. #79
    2000 Post Club Site Supporter My location P.J. Romano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    I was trying to check the timing on The Old Hag this morning and discovered that my old digital Snap On timing light doesn't work exactly as I had hoped it would. Since this is a 'wasted' spark system, I'm assuming that my advance is ½ of what my timing light is reading. Can anyone confirm that the 72° total degrees that I'm seeing is in actuality only 36°?
    This is interesting question Harold. Is it possible that all of us with DIS IX system are setting ignition advance wrongly? I would say no way but on the other hand I have never heard that anybody reached 72 degrees total advance. I am intrigued...I even tried to reach the supplier (Dog House) by the phone but they were closed today. Let us try to get to the bottom of this.
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 08-24-2015 at 12:18 PM.
    Old racers never die. They just go bench racing.

  22. #80
    Kid at heart Frozen Tundra GT's Avatar
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    Yes Pertronix does own them now

    https://compufire.com/about-pertronix

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