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Thread: HC's 72 Project (I need help!)

  1. #61
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Torque Tube Spacer Washers

    While checking out a few things I noticed that the thick spacer washers were missing from the torque tube crossmember. This is one of the many reasons when a car is being restored you take it to someone that is familiar with all of the ends and outs of these cars, someone that's extremely anal and takes pictures of everything before disassembly or you farm out what you can't do (to your level of satisfaction) and you do the rest. On a side note if your car as EVER been worked on by someone there are no guarantees that it was put back together correctly anyway so you may still need to do research to do it right.

    Harold
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    Resident Whippersnapper ubernoob51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    In a pinch you can flip the short gear around..just sayin.
    Late, I know, but you CANNOT do this. The pin the idler gear rides on is tapered, so unless there is a catastrophic amount of wear, you can't "flip the short gear around".

    Not even in a pinch.

    Wrench, at his usual unhelpful best.
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  4. #63
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    What purpose do the spacers/washers serve?

    Did Opel goof and they didn't design the donut holder correctly?

    Did they discover that vibration at the donut was getting transmitted to the chassis if the torque tube was bolted directly to the body, so they isolated it a bit with the washers?

    Do all Opels have washers under the torque tube or just GTs?

    If all Opels have the washers, the washers couldn't be for a specific to a GT misalignment, so what the heck are they for?

    Why, why, why?

    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 12-20-2016 at 01:15 PM.

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  6. #64
    Opeler
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    Last edited by Lindsay; 12-20-2016 at 05:24 PM. Reason: Moved to specific discussion.

  7. #65
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    What purpose do the spacers/washers serve?

    Did Opel goof and they didn't design the donut holder correctly?

    Did they discover that vibration at the donut was getting transmitted to the chassis if the torque tube was bolted directly to the body, so they isolated it a bit with the washers?

    Do all Opels have washers under the torque tube or just GTs?

    If all Opels have the washers, the washers couldn't be for a specific to a GT misalignment, so what the heck are they for?

    Why, why, why?

    Not sure why they're there. I've removed them on GT's that were extremely lowered to help correct driveline angles. Heck, I've even recessed one into the floor before!

    Kadetts use this mounting method too, but other models (Manta/Ascona) use a completely different torque tube crossbar mounting method.

    Interestingly, I've seen a few GT's with torn sheetmetal at the mounting holes area. Seems like the washers would worsen this issue due to high loading on a small contact area.
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  8. #66
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    Not sure why they're there. I've removed them on GT's that were extremely lowered to help correct driveline angles. Heck, I've even recessed one into the floor before!
    How would one even attempt to measure driveline angle disparities on a GT?

    It looks like it would be really hard to make an accurate measurement.



  9. #67
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    How would one even attempt to measure driveline angle disparities on a GT?

    It looks like it would be really hard to make an accurate measurement.


    Thrust angle is very apparent on a four whl. alignment mochine.
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    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  10. #68
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    How would one even attempt to measure driveline angle disparities on a GT?

    It looks like it would be really hard to make an accurate measurement.


    I'm usually more worried about drive traction issues on a race car. When you lower a GT the drive traction decreases due to the rear geometry changing. I mess with the torque tube angle and trailing arm angles to regain (or improve) forward drive traction. It's very effective!

    Remember the torque tube is just the 3rd link of a 3-link rear suspension setup.
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    '70 GT 'Bonnie', '71 Ascona 4-dr turbo - winter beater, '71 Ascona 4-dr 'Turd' - rallycar, '72 Manta Rallye - hillclimb car, '72 Ascona wagon - 'Red', '72 Manta - caged street car, '73 Manta Luxus, '73 Ascona 2-dr, '74 Ascona 2-dr - Project X, '74 Manta Luxus - factory sunroof, '74 Manta ITB racecar, '75 Manta, '75 Sportwagon, '75 Manta - racecar

  11. #69
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    How would one even attempt to measure driveline angle disparities on a GT?

    It looks like it would be really hard to make an accurate measurement.


    A digital magnetic angle finder is very handy for this. Very easy to use.
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    My Flickr photos.
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    E.G. Sauer 2/26/66 - 2/18/10. Rest in peace big guy...

    '70 GT 'Bonnie', '71 Ascona 4-dr turbo - winter beater, '71 Ascona 4-dr 'Turd' - rallycar, '72 Manta Rallye - hillclimb car, '72 Ascona wagon - 'Red', '72 Manta - caged street car, '73 Manta Luxus, '73 Ascona 2-dr, '74 Ascona 2-dr - Project X, '74 Manta Luxus - factory sunroof, '74 Manta ITB racecar, '75 Manta, '75 Sportwagon, '75 Manta - racecar

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Just too make sure that you understand.
    Lateral and horizontal is two very different things.
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    When you lower a GT the drive traction decreases due to the rear geometry changing. I mess with the torque tube angle and trailing arm angles to regain (or improve) forward drive traction. It's very effective!
    For lowered cars, would you recommend curved trailing arms, something similar to those available from Speedway Motors?
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  14. #72
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P.J. Romano View Post
    For lowered cars, would you recommend curved trailing arms, something similar to those available from Speedway Motors?
    Curved or straight...doesn't make a difference. It's the mounting points that matter.
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    E.G. Sauer 2/26/66 - 2/18/10. Rest in peace big guy...

    '70 GT 'Bonnie', '71 Ascona 4-dr turbo - winter beater, '71 Ascona 4-dr 'Turd' - rallycar, '72 Manta Rallye - hillclimb car, '72 Ascona wagon - 'Red', '72 Manta - caged street car, '73 Manta Luxus, '73 Ascona 2-dr, '74 Ascona 2-dr - Project X, '74 Manta Luxus - factory sunroof, '74 Manta ITB racecar, '75 Manta, '75 Sportwagon, '75 Manta - racecar

  15. #73
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    Like this:
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    P.J. Romano and The Scifi Guy like this.
    My Flickr photos.
    C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04, D.M.L. 9/19/50 - 6/23/10
    E.G. Sauer 2/26/66 - 2/18/10. Rest in peace big guy...

    '70 GT 'Bonnie', '71 Ascona 4-dr turbo - winter beater, '71 Ascona 4-dr 'Turd' - rallycar, '72 Manta Rallye - hillclimb car, '72 Ascona wagon - 'Red', '72 Manta - caged street car, '73 Manta Luxus, '73 Ascona 2-dr, '74 Ascona 2-dr - Project X, '74 Manta Luxus - factory sunroof, '74 Manta ITB racecar, '75 Manta, '75 Sportwagon, '75 Manta - racecar

  16. #74
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Something wrong with my steering wheel?

    Something appears to be wrong with my steering wheel. Not sure exactly what though.

    Hopefully it's fixed now.

    Original wheel on the left and a new OGTS wheel on the right.

    Harold

    P.S. The old wheel is a little too nice to give up on, so I'll try to true it up when I'm not doing anything.
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    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I would check the angles at the two bends of each spoke and look for one of them on one spoke to be off. I'm suspecting that it's the middle one at the bottom that has an incorrect bend.

  18. #76
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Heli Coil Question

    I'm changing out the stock intake/exhaust manifold combination for a sprint manifold and separate intake. I've been fighting the sprint manifold only to finally realize that some has Heli Coiled the exhaust flange with SAE Heli Coils. Does anyone have a clue as to whether I can rip them out and replace them with Metric Heli Coils???? I hope the person that put the SAE threads in hasn't reproduced AND I'd be glad to fix it so they can't.

    EDIT: I'm assuming I can't because the special Heli Coil tap is metric.

    Harold
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 4 Weeks Ago at 05:26 PM.

  19. #77
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Head Gasket

    I believe the main oil leak from this car is from the head gasket. I trimmed the front covers of the late model gasket for aesthetic purposes. Added silicone to the top of the timing cover to compensate for the difference in the early style cover vs. the newer flush fitting cover. I placed the gasket on the block and let the silicone set up for ~45 min. before adding the head and torqueing it to specs. We'll see if that was good enough when I finish my little project that should have already been finished.

    Harold
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    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 4 Weeks Ago at 05:16 PM.

  20. #78
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Manifolds

    While the head was off I figured I might as well change out the exhaust and intake manifolds with something better. A Polydyn thermal coated sprint manifold, that I've had forever, and an RB prepped intake that I acquired a few years ago.

    I'll replace the Weber 32/36 DGEV with a DGEV 32/36 DGEV (double pump) at a later date. I'm really curious as to whether it is really a performance improvement or not. I do know that I haven't been able to find out much about it.

    Harold
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    I'm changing out the stock intake/exhaust manifold combination for a sprint manifold and separate intake. I've been fighting the sprint manifold only to finally realize that some has Heli Coiled the exhaust flange with SAE Heli Coils. Does anyone have a clue as to whether I can rip them out and replace them with Metric Heli Coils???? I hope the person that put the SAE threads in hasn't reproduced AND I'd be glad to fix it so they can't.

    EDIT: I'm assuming I can't because the special Heli Coil tap is metric.

    Harold
    Don't know if you remove 5/16-18 UNC Heli-Coils from manifold.
    Then re-tap with M8-125 metric Heli-Coil tap.
    Install M8-125 metric Heli-Coils.

    Will it be close enough to secure new metric bolt?
    See attachment for thread comparison.
    Try it on a test piece of steel approx. thickness of exhaust manifold flange.
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  22. #80
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lindsay View Post
    Don't know if you remove 5/16-18 UNC Heli-Coils from manifold.
    Then re-tap with M8-125 metric Heli-Coil tap.
    Install M8-125 metric Heli-Coils.

    Will it be close enough to secure new metric bolt?
    See attachment for thread comparison.
    Try it on a test piece of steel approx. thickness of exhaust manifold flange.
    The thing is, the other threads are already there and I'm a little scared to try it. I just came back from O'Reilly's with 5/16" bolts. So screw it, no pun intended.

    Harold
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 4 Weeks Ago at 06:21 PM.

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