HC's 72 Project (I need help!)
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Thread: HC's 72 Project (I need help!)

  1. #1
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    HC's 72 Project (I need help!)

    Yep, I've started a new project Opel GT before I've finished with the Old Hag. I've also taken in a 1.1 '69 GT that hasn't run in a looong time.

    This GT was restored over 10 years ago and while it wasn't an Opelspyder restoration it was a decent job. I've found a few places I think I can make improvements but overall it appears to be a very solid car.

    I've been driving the '72 off and on this month already. The fuel gauge only reads from 3/4 full. I discovered in some of the paperwork that came with it that OGTS had 'rebuilt' the fuel sending unit. Assuming that I would only need to work on cleaning the ground a little I removed the sending unit. I was a little disappointed when I found 'stuff' in the fuel sending unit tube. I will reinstall it and run with it for awhile knowing I'm going to have to remove the fuel tank at some point in the future.

    Harold
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    Super Moderator My location Ooooner's Avatar
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    Good for you Harold! After working on the other GT, this car should be a joy to work on. With the experience from the Old Hag, you know what to do and not do! Glad you got another one that you can enjoy.

    Now, what's the deal with the 1.1L?
    Roy Bell
    1969 Opel GT (Switzerland)
    1973 Opel GT
    1972 Opel 1900 Wagon
    1974 Opel Manta Rallye
    Concord, North Carolina
    Carolina Opel Club

  4. #3
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Glamour shots for California Dreamin' from Opelspyders' website as it briefly resided there.

    Harold

    P.S. The 1.1 is 'Top Secret' but I'll try to share a few details as I go. It was someone's high school car and the spouse is planning a surprise. No one related to me. Wait we're in Mid. TN, they may be.
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    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Fuel Tank Sending Unit

    Well as usual, what started out to be a simple project morphed into more. Since I was removing the rear tire tray to get to the fuel sending unit I figured I might as well replace the tire tray with a correct one. I wasn't able to locate all the correct fasteners but I got most of them right. It did come with a spare tire but the jack and hold down were missing. The package tray will get fastened down as well. If someone wants to make a neat little storage area under the package tray, that's cool, but I think it should be locked down.

    While I had the tire tray out, I might as well replace the shocks with better ones, right?

    Harold
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    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Headlights

    Aww heck, when checking the headlights I noticed the actual headlight bucket/retainer needed a little work. The driver side headlight was missing the plastic 'nut' on the adjustment screw. Back to the parts bin for a plastic 'nut' and a pair of used Hella's saved just for such an occasion as this.

    After tightening a loose bolt on one headlight rotator mechanism, making sure there were external lock washers under each screw that held the headlight buckets in place, I decided to call it a night.

    Harold

    P.S. There is a reason Opel used plastic between the headlight cover screws and the cover. I wonder if the person that actually chipped the paint got nauseous when they did it.
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    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Wheel spacers and lug nuts

    Since the wife didn't leave the Old Hag for me to work on today I did a little more on Blue. I replaced the door weather stripping with something a little more appropriate. For the life of me I can't figure out why someone would put as much time and money into a car and then put some ill fitting door weather stripping in place. I spent almost as much time trying to rub the silicone off as I did installing the new weather stripping.

    Door panels are all back in place with the proper hardware and the windows still roll up and down as they should. I readjusted the passenger door. Not sure if it was an improvement or not.

    Harold
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    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Wheel spacer help

    I've never been a fan of wheel spacers and have limited experience with aftermarket wheels sooo.......

    Blue has these pretty Ronal wheels that I think could benefit from spacers. The wheels are 7.5x15mm offset with 205/50 15" tires. The rear wheels have what looks to be 25mm spacers that snap into place. I believe I can get by with 10mm spacers in the back. One of the front tires rubs slightly at full lock. I think a 10mm spacer here would work as well. My question is, "What am I looking for?" I would prefer ones that snap into place.

    Next question is the lug nuts. The front wheels with no spacer had standard style lug nuts while the rear wheels with the 25mm spacers used an extended thread (ET) lug nut.

    Harold

    P.S. The plastic insert in the picture is where the 25mm spacer snaps into place on the rear wheels.
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    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 10-20-2016 at 08:45 AM. Reason: Correct name for lug nut.

  10. #8
    Opeler concours's Avatar
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    Looks like you have been busy and getting the GT well sorted. Hope you are enjoying it!

  11. #9
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by concours View Post
    Looks like you have been busy and getting the GT well sorted. Hope you are enjoying it!
    Well I was. I just had a few things I wanted to get started on before I drove it much. It should be back on the road tomorrow and then in the wife's capable hands while I get back to the Old Hag.

    Harold

    P.S. When I make some really noticeable changes you'll have to drive it again.
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 10-19-2016 at 07:49 AM.

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    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I don't see how that plastic ring is a spacer to push the wheel farther out. It seems to me to be a spacer for hub-centric wheels. For a spacer to actually push the wheel farther out, it must extend all the way up to and around the bolt holes.

    When using spacers with the original length lug bolts, it is sometimes/most times best to get the kind of lug nuts that have a skinny extension/shaft that fits into the bolt holes in the wheels in order to grab more threads. Auto parts stores sell all sorts of different length "shaft" lug nuts. Sometimes with some wheels you have to drill out the holes a little to accommodate the nut "shafts".

  13. #11
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    I didn't include pictures of the spacers on the rear wheels. I only showed pictures of what I wanted the spacers to fit.

    Did you notice the two different lug nuts? Regular style was on the wheels I included a picture of. The ET lug nuts were used on the rear wheels, the ones with the 25mm spacers.

    Harold
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 10-20-2016 at 08:48 AM.

  14. #12
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Oil Pressure too good to be true?

    The picture is of my oel pressure gauge at idle. I've never had this kind of pressure on a regular engine. The last time I saw high oil pressure was when a buddy of mine broke the oil pump cover(w/bypass)on a race engine and replaced it with a flat cover(w/o bypass).

    My first oil change on it, I'll use 10w30 Valvoline VR1. If the oil pressure drops to what I consider normal all is well, if not.....

    Harold
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    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 10-23-2016 at 09:29 AM.

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    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    The picture is of my oel pressure gauge at idle. I've never had this kind of pressure on a regular engine. The last time I saw high oil pressure was when a buddy of mine broke the oil pump cover(w/bypass)on a race engine and replaced it with a flat cover(w/o bypass).

    My first oil change on it, I'll use 10w30 Valvoline VR1. If the oil pressure drops to what I consider normal all is well, if not.....

    Harold
    Are you sure you aren't running your fuel level sender to the oil gauge?
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
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    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  16. #14
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Are you sure you aren't running your fuel level sender to the oil gauge?
    I'll have to check.

    Harold

  17. #15
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Carb questions

    Blue has run well until recently. It started having some idling issues and would occasionally die. Spark plugs looked good but replaced them anyway, found one loose plug wire (they all tested good) so on to the Weber. I removed the carb top discovering several stripped or buggered holes. Not a big deal as I can come up with another top. The fuel filter has a torn place in the element that can be seen, so no surprise to find rust in the bowl. I did spot some unusual 'things' though. First, I noticed some holes intentionally plugged with silicone. Second, odd jetting, at least to me it was odd. Granted this car probably has the smoothest power band of any Opel I've ever owned and most that I've driven but....

    Idle Jets
    Pri. 65
    Sec. 60
    Mains
    Pri. 150
    Sec. 190
    Air Corrector
    Pri. 170
    Sec. 180
    Emulsion Tubes
    F50's

    Replacing the power valve after a visual check.

    Sooo, has some Weber tuning guru modified this carb and I should only clean it, hoping for the best or clean and re-jet?

    Harold
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    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 11-08-2016 at 10:44 AM.

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    Member mschinelli3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    The picture is of my oel pressure gauge at idle. I've never had this kind of pressure on a regular engine. The last time I saw high oil pressure was when a buddy of mine broke the oil pump cover(w/bypass)on a race engine and replaced it with a flat cover(w/o bypass).

    My first oil change on it, I'll use 10w30 Valvoline VR1. If the oil pressure drops to what I consider normal all is well, if not.....

    Harold
    Hi

    Whats the range it should be at during idle?
    thanks

  19. #17
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post

    Soooo, has some Weber tuning guru modified this carb and I should only clean it, hoping for the best or clean and re-jet?

    Harold


    "Don't fix it if it ain't broke."




  20. #18
    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Referring to Oil Pressure
    Quote Originally Posted by mschinelli3 View Post
    Hi

    Whats the range it should be at during idle?
    thanks
    I would hope for between 1 and 2, no more than 3 on an engine at operating temperature. Others may disagree, if so I'd like to hear their reasoning. I've seen engines barely have enough pressure to keep the light off at idle but have decent pressure at highway speeds.

    Harold

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    Referring to Oil Pressure would hope for between 1 and 2, no more than 3 on an engine at operating temperature. Others may disagree, if so I'd like to hear their reasoning. I've seen engines barely have enough pressure to keep the light off at idle but have decent pressure at highway speeds.

    Harold
    Two bar hot idle
    Four bar 8k rpm:-)

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Member mschinelli3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    Referring to Oil PressureI would hope for between 1 and 2, no more than 3 on an engine at operating temperature. Others may disagree, if so I'd like to hear their reasoning. I've seen engines barely have enough pressure to keep the light off at idle but have decent pressure at highway speeds.

    Harold
    My car runs between 3-4 in most situations... idle and driving... I'm trying to figure out why its different for different cars... Hope this is a dumb question.. just trying to learn

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