My fiberglass GT - Page 10
OpelGT.com is the premier Opel GT Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Page 10 of 10 FirstFirst ... 678910
Results 181 to 194 of 194
Like Tree265Likes

Thread: My fiberglass GT

  1. #181
    Opelitis afflicted My location charlie1966's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Ireland
    Posts
    420
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    If the windscreen is the only reason for not widening the car the solution is easy.
    Cut the original down the middle and put an infill from any other suitable windscreen with 2 very thin splits down the windscreen. If the splits are in chrome they would be barely noticeable.
    Sometimes the simplest solutions are staring you in the face and in this case it always would be.
    The Scifi Guy and John B like this.
    "You can't fix stupid, but stupid eventually fixes itself." -Issac T.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    OpelGT.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #182
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Cöllingswööd, NJ
    Posts
    9,578
    Real Name
    Gördö
    Downloads
    6
    Uploads
    0
    I think Chuck is right and we need to keep feeding John ideas until one of them sticks.

    Hoo-boy, wanna have some fun? Google "bubble roof cars" and check out what comes up. I found a couple of excellent candidates for John to ponder:


    Barry-Weiss-beatnik-gary-chopit-600x297.png bubblecar1.jpg


    Or maybe a nice convertible mod will tickle John's fancy:


    656e7b7266c3ab2b085fe53d08ad90e6.jpg
    John B likes this.

  4. #183
    1000 Post Club
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Scottsdale, Az
    Posts
    1,646
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by charlie1966 View Post
    If the windscreen is the only reason for not widening the car the solution is easy.
    Cut the original down the middle and put an infill from any other suitable windscreen with 2 very thin splits down the windscreen. If the splits are in chrome they would be barely noticeable.
    Sometimes the simplest solutions are staring you in the face and in this case it always would be.
    Actually, with the windshield being smooth down the center, cut TWO windshields off center by 1/2 of the total width increase wanted, smooth those longer pieces and GLUE them together. Because your eyes are focused at a distance, the joint is almost invisible! A lot of hot rods due this (in reverse) so a wider, but "better" shaped windshield can be used on an earlier, narrow car.

    HTH John -- Doug
    John B likes this.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    OpelGT.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #184
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    new tecumseth ontario
    Posts
    167
    Downloads
    3
    Uploads
    0
    Great ideas there guy's. We will figure out a way to get one of those coyote motors to fit comfortably in there, one way or another. If I was to do it all over again, I sure would consider it.
    charlie1966 likes this.

  7. #185
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    new tecumseth ontario
    Posts
    167
    Downloads
    3
    Uploads
    0

    Progress Report

    Well the bodywork is pretty well all done, but there are a few things I still had to take care of. One thing was something that I didn't think of at first, and that was using a charcoal canister. My engine has a canister purge solenoid that is controlled by the computer that opens on demand to pull the excess vapors into the intake manifold. Since the opel gas cap is not the vented type I was also getting pressure build up in the tank. It was then that I realized the importance of having the canister connected. When I originally modified the stock wiring harness, I eliminated the wires for it, not realizing its benefit. So I had to take out my instrument panel and remove the dash and the blower assembly, to allow me to pull the computer harness back out partially into the engine compartment to add the wires. One wire went to the computer, and one to the under hood control center. A lot of work but I think it was worth it.
    Another thing I did while I had the instrument panel out was to fix my fog light switch. It never worked since I had the original car. It was always cocked to one side and never had a positive action to it. So I removed the assembly and started to fiddle with it. I pushed and pulled on it and finally the rocker came out. Once it was out I could see why it never worked, the spring, plunger and contact were gone. I made a new contact out of brass and made a plunger and installed a new spring. Instead of the hollow aluminum pin that held the rock in place, I used a 6/32 x 1" machine screw. I had to open up the hole in the side of the switch housing and the switch for it, but left the far inside hole in the housing for the screw to thread into. It works!
    I also decided to finally put some brake fluid in the reservoirs, and bleed the brakes. I also had to bleed the master cylinders too. Since they are mounted under the dash, I figured this was a good time to do it. I decided to use silicone brake fluid so in case I had any leaks it wouldn't peel any paint. Got the rears all done and only had one leak. The jag rear calipers have external fluid crossovers so there are six connections in all. I guess one leak out of six isn't to bad. I used summit racing stainless line, with AN 3 fittings. I was worried that I would have more leaks because of not having a professional flaring tool for the stainless. Since my front calipers were used with Dot 3, and never used for 35 plus years I decided to take them apart to clean them. Good thing I did, because they were pretty well seized, with old gummy fluid. Got a new seal kit and I should have them back together in a couple of days.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #186
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    new tecumseth ontario
    Posts
    167
    Downloads
    3
    Uploads
    0
    I forgot to mention about the charcoal canister being there to stop fumes from escaping into the atmosphere as a means of pollution control. This also means no fumes in the shop too.

  9. #187
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Cöllingswööd, NJ
    Posts
    9,578
    Real Name
    Gördö
    Downloads
    6
    Uploads
    0
    Holy Canoli!

    Do ya make your own spark plugs, too?

    Tap the neighbor's rubber tree to make your own wiper blades?

    Smelt quartz into glass to make your own windshield?


    John B likes this.

  10. #188
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    new tecumseth ontario
    Posts
    167
    Downloads
    3
    Uploads
    0
    Another thing that I had to take care of was the location and mounting of my fuel pump. I previously had it mounted to the underside of the gas tank well. The only trouble was it was very loud, and it would drive anyone crazy to have to listen to it for any length of time. Plus the fiberglass was kind of acting like a sound board, amplifying the noise. So I decided to make a canister to put the pump into along with it being wrapped in foam, and added some isolation mounts. It's all mounted on a bracket that is bolted to the rear differential housing. It should be quieter now.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #189
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Cöllingswööd, NJ
    Posts
    9,578
    Real Name
    Gördö
    Downloads
    6
    Uploads
    0
    Oh man, I WANT that! I'm jealous! I couldn't even begin to make those cool round holdy thingies for that cylindrical whatchamacallit gizmo! Aaarrgghh, now my car is poop!


    John B likes this.

  12. #190
    Senior Contributor markandson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Mahopac, NY
    Posts
    4,001
    Real Name
    Jeff
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by John B View Post
    Another thing that I had to take care of was the location and mounting of my fuel pump. I previously had it mounted to the underside of the gas tank well. The only trouble was it was very loud, and it would drive anyone crazy to have to listen to it for any length of time. Plus the fiberglass was kind of acting like a sound board, amplifying the noise. So I decided to make a canister to put the pump into along with it being wrapped in foam, and added some isolation mounts. It's all mounted on a bracket that is bolted to the rear differential housing. It should be quieter now.
    Cool idea but there is a chance you might overheat the fuel pump motor.
    kwschumm and John B like this.
    Jeff

    '73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI MegaSqrt, Ali Flywhl w/S10 Clutch, Elec Fan, Roller Rockers, Venolia Pistons, 6 Cyl Intake w/ Custom Injection, 15" Wheels,F&R Sway Bars,2" Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3:90 Gears & Gripper LSD,Rear Disks,Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors - Kandy Pagan Gold.
    123 WHP @ 6800 RPM

    www.markandson.net

    www.gpny.com

    '64 VW Ghia '09 S35 BMW Z4
    '15 BMW M4 '11 BMW 335 '04 Ford F150 SVT Lightning

  13. #191
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Cöllingswööd, NJ
    Posts
    9,578
    Real Name
    Gördö
    Downloads
    6
    Uploads
    0
    I think he'll be fine, it's the fuel that cools the pump, not ambient air cooling the smooth outer surface. Actually, considering the close proximity to the exhaust pipe, his insulated housing for his pump might actually keep the fuel pump cooler.

    Hmmmm....but is it wise to mount the fuel pump to the rear suspension?

    It's going to be affected by every single road vibration. His independent suspension back there might lessen that chance, though.

    Hmmmmm......John, I just realized that I don't understand how your rear suspension is mounted. With pivoting arms on either side of the differential, what supports the diff? Is the diff part somehow attached to the chassis and it never moves in relation to the driveshaft and the rest of the drive train? Or does it float in the air somehow?

    Knowing John, he probably designed a Hover Diff.

    John B likes this.

  14. #192
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    new tecumseth ontario
    Posts
    167
    Downloads
    3
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by markandson View Post
    Cool idea but there is a chance you might overheat the fuel pump motor.
    That pump is originally from a ford pickup. Lots of guys used to use them for efi. engine swaps. It came wrapped in thicker foam than what I used, with a cheesy sheet metal can that wrapped around the whole thing. Supposedly the fuel running through the pump keeps it cool. With 45 psi. to the injectors the rest is bypassed back to the tank so there is constant flow through the pump. Hopefully there wont be any issues with it.

  15. #193
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    new tecumseth ontario
    Posts
    167
    Downloads
    3
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    I think he'll be fine, it's the fuel that cools the pump, not ambient air cooling the smooth outer surface. Actually, considering the close proximity to the exhaust pipe, his insulated housing for his pump might actually keep the fuel pump cooler.

    Hmmmm....but is it wise to mount the fuel pump to the rear suspension?

    It's going to be affected by every single road vibration. His independent suspension back there might lessen that chance, though.

    Hmmmmm......John, I just realized that I don't understand how your rear suspension is mounted. With pivoting arms on either side of the differential, what supports the diff? Is the diff part somehow attached to the chassis and it never moves in relation to the driveshaft and the rest of the drive train? Or does it float in the air somehow?

    Knowing John, he probably designed a Hover Diff.

    Thanks for the support on the cooling of the pump there Gordon. I would have liked to have mounted the pump on the frame rail somewhere, but from reading on different forums, they recommend not going more than, I think it was 18 inches from the tank, or something like that. As for the rear differential, the center section is bolted to the frame so there is no movement up or down.

  16. #194
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    new tecumseth ontario
    Posts
    167
    Downloads
    3
    Uploads
    0
    I just finished bleeding my front brakes this morning. wasn't so lucky on the fronts as I was on the rears. Some of the components on the front have 45 degree fittings that required double flares, and those were the ones, to my surprise, that leaked. Plus when I examined the inside of some of the fittings, the conical seat in some of them seems pretty small, so the outer perimeter of the flare is bottoming out before the flare touches it. My flaring tool, to look at it, is a quality piece, but looks only go so far. It's designed well but its only downfall is the way they made the gripping portion of the die blocks. They drilled and tapped the holes to make the gripping surface, then cut a taper in the top. The trouble is, that when you do this one side of the whole is at a different height than than the other side do to the pitch of the threads, so the thing wont make a concentric flare, no matter how many times you try to. I ended up having to make some conical seals out of copper, and they did the trick. They use them a lot in aircraft plumbing. They call them flare savers.
    The Scifi Guy likes this.

Page 10 of 10 FirstFirst ... 678910

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

    Similar Threads

    1. gt fiberglass parts
      By mniskeep in forum General Discussions
      Replies: 4
      Last Post: 10-18-2014, 01:07 PM
    2. Manta Fiberglass?
      By IT Manta in forum Manta
      Replies: 2
      Last Post: 09-14-2009, 06:08 PM
    3. fiberglass frontend
      By scott floyd in forum 2D - Body Repairs and Modifications
      Replies: 5
      Last Post: 02-04-2009, 09:25 PM
    4. Best Fiberglass???
      By roosterrusek in forum 2D - Body Repairs and Modifications
      Replies: 7
      Last Post: 08-27-2008, 07:35 PM
    5. Fiberglass Hood
      By crankyhick in forum 2D - Body Repairs and Modifications
      Replies: 23
      Last Post: 11-08-2006, 11:18 PM

    Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •