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Thread: My fiberglass GT

  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by deaconblues010266 View Post
    Hi John, Great job on the build. I am an old racer, and I was curious to see a hard line connected directly to the fuel pump. Any chance of it work hardening and cracking? I had an inspection steward mention it once, and I went back to braided -8AN hose. What are your thoughts?

    Chuck
    Thanks for the comments there Chuck. Yeah good point. I figured if they are both mounted to the same surface there wouldn't be much movement between them. The pump connection is a swivel, and not totally rigid. I kind of thought that a sweeping bend in rigid tube would be less restrictive. Point well taken though. I'll do some googling on it and see if I can find more on the subject.

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  3. #202
    Opeler My location SpringGT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John B View Post
    Thanks for the comments there Chuck. Yeah good point. I figured if they are both mounted to the same surface there wouldn't be much movement between them. The pump connection is a swivel, and not totally rigid. I kind of thought that a sweeping bend in rigid tube would be less restrictive. Point well taken though. I'll do some googling on it and see if I can find more on the subject.
    John, since it has come up, I had a few concerns about this set-up too. First, there is the platform attached to the differential. It is cantilevered pretty far out from its mounting point and you may encounter some vibration in this setup. Depending on the strength and configuration of the bracket material, it may not be a major problem, just saying that it is something to watch for.

    Secondly, I would be concerned that the stiff, unsupported u-tube might vibrate in the vertical plane, like a tuning fork, and ultimately cause the tube to fail at its attachment points. I have seen this happen on offshore natural gas compressor packages whose resonant frequencies were too near the operating speed of the engines.

    I was hesitant to offer any comment on such a fine build, but thought it might be worth consideration or discussion.
    Bob
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpringGT View Post
    John, since it has come up, I had a few concerns about this set-up too. First, there is the platform attached to the differential. It is cantilevered pretty far out from its mounting point and you may encounter some vibration in this setup. Depending on the strength and configuration of the bracket material, it may not be a major problem, just saying that it is something to watch for.

    Secondly, I would be concerned that the stiff, unsupported u-tube might vibrate in the vertical plane, like a tuning fork, and ultimately cause the tube to fail at its attachment points. I have seen this happen on offshore natural gas compressor packages whose resonant frequencies were too near the operating speed of the engines.

    I was hesitant to offer any comment on such a fine build, but thought it might be worth consideration or discussion.
    Bob
    The main bracket material is made from 7075 aluminum. But next time I get a chance I'm going to change that tube out for a flexible one. Another reason why I used that piece was because when ordering the fittings from Summit a few years back, I made up a list and thought I had everything covered as far as fittings and hose was concerned, but came up short. Thanks for the input Bob, as any suggestions from someone with more experience in this field are well taken.

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    My latest endeavor was to make a front license plate bracket and a front grill. I bent up some 1/8 aluminum for the license plate bracket, and for the front grill I used a piece of stainless sheet that I had laying around for a while. I planned to use it to make the grill for a long time but never thought I would get around to it. Over time I whittled away at it, using it to make pieces for other things, and luckily, it was just large enough to do the job. I mounted it to a piece of plywood and then mounted it on my milling machine and started drilling away. I used a 3/8 drill bit and used a 1/2 inch hole spacing. It turned out not too bad.
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    More Photo's.
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    Since I made the lower grill screen, I figured I better make some for the upper nose intakes also. For these I used a 3/16 drill bit with a 1/4 Inch hole spacing. It's funny that it's a 1/4 inch spacing for the horizontal, but as you move to the next row you have to reduce the distance to that row by .030. I know it may seem a little crazy to make them myself, but if I lived in the good old USA, I would have bought some for sure. When I search for this kind of stuff on the internet, I find all kinds of places down there where you can get stuff like this, and not have to buy a 4x8 sheet of it either. Up here it's a different ball game, minimum order, hard to find, big bucks, no free shipping, and pay through the nose. Anyways, it's a good feeling to make stuff yourself.
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    Fog Light Switch

    Well I finally connected my fog light switch to the lights and fed power to one side of the switch. When I turned my battery switch on and things were livened up, I noticed the brake light switch was illuminated. The fog light switch also turned the fog lights on too, but then I remembered the wiring diagram in the manual showed that one terminal on the fog light switch was common to the brake warning light switch bulb. So I had to remove the instrument panel again and changed the connections around. Now the brake warning light isn't on with the system livened up, but it comes on a little dimmer when I turn on the fog lights. So I figured I would leave it like this and use the brake warning light as a pilot light for the fog light switch. It looks to me like this had to be the way it was designed.

  10. #208
    OpelGT.com Übermoderator My location kwilford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John B View Post
    .... So I figured I would leave it like this and use the brake warning light as a pilot light for the fog light switch. It looks to me like this had to be the way it was designed.
    Famous quote, most typically associated with British cars: "That isn't a flaw; That is a FEATURE!"
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    Keith Wilford
    Working on the bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT, and may have another GT to build next...

  11. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by John B View Post
    Since I made the lower grill screen, I figured I better make some for the upper nose intakes also. For these I used a 3/16 drill bit with a 1/4 Inch hole spacing. It's funny that it's a 1/4 inch spacing for the horizontal, but as you move to the next row you have to reduce the distance to that row by .030. I know it may seem a little crazy to make them myself, but if I lived in the good old USA, I would have bought some for sure. When I search for this kind of stuff on the internet, I find all kinds of places down there where you can get stuff like this, and not have to buy a 4x8 sheet of it either. Up here it's a different ball game, minimum order, hard to find, big bucks, no free shipping, and pay through the nose. Anyways, it's a good feeling to make stuff yourself.
    I like the work but I think you are cutting down on your air flow significantly.
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    Jeff

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    Yes, the flow charts show I will have about a 50% reduction in air flow. But I think it will still be alright. Even at that amount it is far from being closed right off. I have a large aluminum rad also. At speed I think the flow will be sufficient. But I guess the only way to find out will be to get it on the road and see what happens. I'll also be able to tell the difference by letting it idle and get up to temperature, and see if it's much different than it was before.

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    Front Inner Fenders

    Well I took a break from working on the car today. I got side tracked making some home made Italian sausage. It's barbecue season, what more can I say. I used my little home made sausage stuffer I made a few years back. But over the last couple of days I test fit my front inner fenders on the car, then removed and painted them and put them back in.
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    Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that the acme screw on my sausage stuffer is the screw from my old Opel jack. An Opel sausage stuffer.

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    Return on Lower Front Fenders

    I had been procrastinating on putting the return edge on the lower front fenders for quite some time. I actually thought at some point I would just taper the upper return to match the bottom with no return, but it just wouldn't look right. So I finally got around to doing it. It looks a lot better now.
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    John, You definitely made the right choice AGAIN! Your unbelievable car gets BETTER all the time. You are 2250 miles (one way) and 29 construction zones from my home, but man, I want to see that car! I do have a couple of friends (and an ex-wife) in the Midwest that I might be able to "bum" a night with?

    Doug

    PS - Will you be ready for Las Vegas?
    Last edited by slracer; 2 Weeks Ago at 11:58 PM. Reason: Added PS
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    I have visired John twice already to check his amazing car, however I am planning another visit soon. Those Italian sausages need to be verified.
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    Old racers never die. They just go bench racing.

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    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    It's a really good thing to reinforce those edges. You lean against them when you work on the car.
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    Quote Originally Posted by slracer View Post
    John, You definitely made the right choice AGAIN! Your unbelievable car gets BETTER all the time. You are 2250 miles (one way) and 29 construction zones from my home, but man, I want to see that car! I do have a couple of friends (and an ex-wife) in the Midwest that I might be able to "bum" a night with?

    Doug

    PS - Will you be ready for Las Vegas?
    Thanks for the compliments there Doug. If I ever get done I'd love to take a trip down that way. I know that compared to a lot of the cars that are professionally built, like for the Sema show and such it wouldn't hold a candle, but for the equipment I have around here and a certain budget it's not to bad.

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    Quote Originally Posted by P.J. Romano View Post
    I have visired John twice already to check his amazing car, however I am planning another visit soon. Those Italian sausages need to be verified.
    Yes P.J for sure, you can come out and visit any time. I'll throw some on the barbecue and get out some buns along with some sweet roasted red peppers and we'll be all set.
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    Titanium Bolts

    This ones for Doug. I recall recently reading your post about you working for Boeing. I have a question for you. A buddy of mine used to work for McDonnell Douglas. He said that at the end of the day any bolts that were laying on the floor at the end of the day were swept up and thrown into barrels in the back of the shop,and weren't used, so he loaded up on them. He gave me a bunch of them, but along with them there are ones made of titanium. How strong are these bolts and do you think they would be strong enough for instance, to bolt a driveshaft yoke together?

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    Quote Originally Posted by John B View Post
    This ones for Doug. I recall recently reading your post about you working for Boeing. I have a question for you. A buddy of mine used to work for McDonnell Douglas. He said that at the end of the day any bolts that were laying on the floor at the end of the day were swept up and thrown into barrels in the back of the shop,and weren't used, so he loaded up on them. He gave me a bunch of them, but along with them there are ones made of titanium. How strong are these bolts and do you think they would be strong enough for instance, to bolt a driveshaft yoke together?
    John, There is no simple answer to your question as there are untold numbers of variables. Generally speaking, the basic Titanium material has shear capabilities and elasticity capabilities "between Aluminum and Steel". However, because you don't know what alloy of titanium you have (and probably are not using high grade steel bolts) the answer is unknown (which is the reason they are not returned to supply, but thrown out). Are your steel drive shaft bolts marked as Grade 5, Grade 8, or AN? Then the answer would be maybe, probably not, and NO (for those grades). I wouldn't use the titanium anywhere for a highly loaded joint, but where there is no load, there is a "WOW" factor. Sorry to be "evasive" but I never had to build anything I designed some those details have been unpracticed for a long time and I last worked for Boeing a millennium ago (I retired in 1999).

    Doug
    Last edited by slracer; 1 Week Ago at 03:09 PM.
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