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Thread: My fiberglass GT

  1. #21
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    More Pictures

    Here are more pictures of the engine bay and fuel and brake lines, and a few other things.
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  3. #22
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    More pictures

    My old heater control valve was all rusty so I took it apart and replaced the seals inside it then made the rest of the external parts out of stainless steel. I made my own transmission dipstick and flexible tube using 8 AN fittings and hose, and machined the pull knob and the fitting that goes into the transmission. For the dipstick itself I used a base string from a piano, and crimped a brass level indicator on the end of it. The top end is held in the knob with a set screw. I made my own plug wire looms with some stainless steel and used some pieces of snowmobile sliders to make the plastic holders for the wires. Made my own throttle cable too. I used to have a chevy vega gt that I bought off a friend, and the only parts I kept were the rally mirrors and the instrument panel. So the mirrors came in handy.
    For anyone wanting to know a quick and easy way to make a fiberglass part, just by some 2 part pour in place foam. That is the method I used to make my rear panel extension. What I did was to make up a form to make a block of foam long enough to be a little wider than the back end of the car, 2 inches thick by 10 inches wide. I just use wax paper to cover the bottom of the form, mix up the foam and pour it in. Once it has expanded and hardened you just cut around the edges with a saw and pull your block of foam out. Once I made the block of foam I glued it to the lower part of the original rear panel by just mixing up some more foam and pouring it onto the edge of my block, (kind of like the way a brick layer applies mortar to a brick), and then just holding it against the rear of the car until it was stuck there. This stuff really sticks good too. I did the same thing to make the 2 short side pieces that come from the rear flares to the lower corners. Once you have all the pieces glued or stuck in place, carve away. Once you have all your carving done to your liking, start to cover it with 1 ounce fiberglass mat and resin. One tip though is to keep all edges with at least a 1/4 inch radius because the mat will not stay flat around a sharp corner. Ounce you have got your first layer of mat on and it has cured you can progress to 1 1/2 ounce mat. Do three layers of that and you have your part. With mine, I pulled it all off the car cleaned all the foam out, then reinstalled it and laminated it to the car and finished it with regular body work. This method can be used for making speaker pods or consoles or whatever.
    For the front suspension I cloned all the dimensions of a mustang 2 and made a fixture to weld up the front control arms. The width of this setup is perfect for the stienmetz flare kit.
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  4. #23
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    I thinks it's awesome how much of the original GT design you've retained with such dramatic modifications.
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  6. #24
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    Thanks for the comment.

    Yes, I wanted to keep it looking like an opel from the outside. I guess I have changed a few things like removing the bubble from the hood,and changes to the front and rear of the car, but for the most part it still looks like an opel, but cooler. Using the LT1 engine is the best way to not have to cut a hole through the hood for air filters and such. I always liked the looks of the opel when driving and looking over the front of the car and seeing the clean shape of it, so I'm not a big fan of hood scoops. With the airbags I can lower it to almost an inch off the ground.
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  7. #25
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    More pictures

    Here are more pictures. I should have taken pictures every step of the way through this project. I always tell myself to do it but when you get busy concentrating on doing a certain task its easy to forget.
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  8. #26
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    Jag Rear

    I narrowed the jaguar rear end and used 2 inch DOM steel tube to make the upper half shafts. Here it is with new rebuilt calipers, all ready to install.
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  9. #27
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    John, this is a mind blowing project in it's scope. Incredible detail and workmanship. Thank you for taking the time to document the depth of work you went into in making this 'glass GT.

    I've been at for far too long with a backyard mini-tug trawler I'm building from plans. Plywood, fiberglass cloth (6 ounce cloth in various layers of depth depending on location) and marine epoxy resin (WEST System brand). So I'm well acquainted with the idea of "fairing" the epoxy/cloth to accept paint. Lots of hand and block and machine sanding involving countless hours. I suspect what the reader here sees with your GT does not include those hundreds of hours of tedious sanding.

    Keep up the fantastic work. What to say but, wow!

    Mike
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  10. #28
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    Fantastic Job at all! Absolutely amazing

    I think the tires are not in correct rotation direction just now.
    The left rear must change with the right front wheel!
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    Thanks

    Thank you Mike, your right on with the amount of hand sanding it takes. I don't use power sanders for any external finishing, because I find it makes to much dust when working inside, plus you don't have the control and feel of when you are using your hands. When I built the car the first time, I coated it with blue jell coat and sanded it smooth by hand too. You can still see some of it in the odd pictures. For this build I used a 1/2 inch wood chisel to scrape it off every inch of the car. Your boat project reminds me of when I was a kid, when my dad built a run about boat from plans you could order from popular mechanics back in the day. It was called the playboy. It was made with all wood stringers and gussets covered in marine mahogany plywood, held together with marine glue and hundreds of brass screws. A thing of beauty. After about ten years or so he decided to cover it with fiberglass cloth, and I can still remember all the time and sanding that he put into that. Who knows, maybe it runs in the family. Anyways, good luck with your project and keep at her.
    Last edited by kwilford; 10-22-2016 at 04:58 PM.
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    Tires

    Yeah, the tires are just on there any old way right now. It will still be a while before I will be driving it.
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  13. #31
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    More pictures

    Here are more pictures of a few more molds and things. Its to bad I don't have the molds of the major body parts anymore. I had them stored up in the loft of our barn and my sisters kids trashed them on me.
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  14. #32
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    John, if you have the engine hood mold, it might be possible to make carbon fibre hood. Some of us could be interested.
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  15. #33
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    Engine Hood Mold

    I wish I had the hood mold or a hood to make one from, cause in my previous post I mentioned that my nephews smashed all the ones I had. I had a chance to buy an opel from a guy not to far from here for 300 bucks but I didn't, and now I'm kicking myself in the rear for not buying it. I could have made some molds off of it, and used the spare parts.
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  16. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by John B View Post
    I narrowed the jaguar rear end and used 2 inch DOM steel tube to make the upper half shafts. Here it is with new rebuilt calipers, all ready to install.
    Fantastic job! Great photos!
    John B likes this.

  17. #35
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    Fuse converters.

    I figured out a nice way to use the modern fuses in the gt fuse block. It consists of two 1/4 inch brass pieces per fuse. If you know someone with a lathe you could get him to make them, or if you don't you could make them yourself. To make them yourself you could hold the brass in an electric drill and with a file turn them into the desired shape. Once you have the end shaped, carefully cut a groove in the other end with a hacksaw. Measure carefully how deep you make the cut so that when you mount to the fuse they are the right distance apart from tip to tip. After you cut the groove drill and tap for a 6-32 set screw. There may be a bur on the inside after that so just run the hacksaw through to clean it out. Now mount them to the fuse and pop it into the fuse block. Here are some pictures of them.
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  18. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by John B View Post
    I figured out a nice way to use the modern fuses in the gt fuse block. It consists of two 1/4 inch brass pieces per fuse. If you know someone with a lathe you could get him to make them, or if you don't you could make them yourself. To make them yourself you could hold the brass in an electric drill and with a file turn them into the desired shape. Once you have the end shaped, carefully cut a groove in the other end with a hacksaw. Measure carefully how deep you make the cut so that when you mount to the fuse they are the right distance apart from tip to tip. After you cut the groove drill and tap for a 6-32 set screw. There may be a bur on the inside after that so just run the hacksaw through to clean it out. Now mount them to the fuse and pop it into the fuse block. Here are some pictures of them.
    Awesome mod!
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  19. #37
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    Fuse Converters

    Glad you like them. I made enough of them so I have some mounted on spares for all the different sizes, for quick replacement.

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    Fuse Converters.

    The 1/4 inch dimension that I was referring to was the diameter of the brass round stock. The length of the piece once cut is around 7/16.

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    More Pictures

    Here are some more pictures of the hood and latch mods I made. I made a coupler to attach two cables to the hood pull handle, and each cable goes to its respective latch. The female parts of the latch with the bolt on them are mounted further apart than on a stock hood also. They are held in place by 10/32 stainless machine screws with the nuts fastened on the inside of the structure.
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    More Pictures

    Here are some pictures of making the headlight bucket molds, and making up the headlight wiring harness.
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