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Thread: My fiberglass GT

  1. #121
    2000 Post Club Site Supporter My location P.J. Romano's Avatar
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    Nice. Have you ever thought about hinging front end so that you can tilt it forward for easy access to the engine and front suspension?

    Picture source: Opel GT Motorsport 1968-1975
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    Old racers never die. They just go bench racing.

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  3. #122
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    Tilt frontend

    Yes, that's the way I built it years ago, but I didn't have the rotating lights. I suppose it could be done with some fancy hinges and more engineering, but I figure it's not worth it. Would be nice though.

  4. #123
    Opeler simonR's Avatar
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    I actually got a front fiber glass bumper, I have no idea how or where it came from, It was a part of the extras I got with the car. You can have it if you want, but unfortunately it's located in Denmark. Shipping would be a nightmare.

    Perfect for a lightweight racing GT though.

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  6. #124
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    Thanks

    Thanks for the thought on the bumper. I am going to go without the front bumper at first, but when time permits, I am going to make bumper molds and make some bumpers out of carbon fiber.

  7. #125
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    Inner Fenders

    Well I'm still plugging away at getting the front clip ready for paint, and tidying up certain things. I also mounted my inner fenders just to make sure they fit good. I made up some clips out of stainless steel for the screws to hold in. I'll post some pic's.
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  8. #126
    Sick with Opelitus My location broszzy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John B View Post
    I narrowed the jaguar rear end and used 2 inch DOM steel tube to make the upper half shafts. Here it is with new rebuilt calipers, all ready to install.
    Hi John, I just read your thread and wow, great build you have going here.
    I thought I was the only one to have a Jag rear end in a Opel, Yours looks great.
    I was just wondering how much you narrowed your half shafts and lower control arms?

    And where you got the 2" half shaft ends?

    From what I could find out about the original Jag half shafts may be a high carbon steel that should not be welded. I welded them with 309L and they welded nice but I'm thinking about making another set of half shafts.

    Thanks Pat.
    That looks like it was made for it. Come to think of it, it was made for it!

    "All the worlds indeed a stage, we are merely players, performers, & portrayers, each anothers audience, outside the gilded cage"
    Geddy Lee/Neil Peart

  9. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by broszzy View Post
    Hi John, I just read your thread and wow, great build you have going here.
    I thought I was the only one to have a Jag rear end in a Opel, Yours looks great.
    I was just wondering how much you narrowed your half shafts and lower control arms?

    And where you got the 2" half shaft ends?

    From what I could find out about the original Jag half shafts may be a high carbon steel that should not be welded. I welded them with 309L and they welded nice but I'm thinking about making another set of half shafts.

    Thanks Pat.
    It's been quite a while since I did them, so I'll have to get a measurement off them tomorrow and then measure some original spares that I have and then I'll post them. As far as the ends are concerned, the ends of the shafts have center drill holes in them, so I put them between centers in my lathe and turned them down so they were nice and true and turned a bit of a shoulder on the joint end. Then I cut the ends off leaving about a 2 1/2 inch stub. Then I machined an adapter out of solid 2 inch bar stock,with an outside diameter to fit snug inside the 2 inch dom, ( leaving a shoulder to butt up against) and bored a hole through the center so it was a nice snug fit over the stub. Then I welded everything together. The stubs stuck out about a 1/2 inch out of the adapter so I put a good bead around on there, and built up a good weld on the joint end. I wasn't aware that they couldn't be welded though. It seemed to weld nice and I got good penetration, so time will tell. They sure looked solid enough. I used my stick welder and I think I used 7014 rod. I don't think they will come apart. But if they were put behind 500 or more horsepower I don't know. I have seen pictures on some sites of the welds not failing but the tube twisting like a pretzel form lots of HP, and wheel hop.
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  10. #128
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    Half Shaft Length

    Well I got the measurement for you Pat. I shortened them by 2 inches, that would make them around 14 1/8. The originals are roughly 16 1/8, measuring with a tape measure. I guess the main thing is to shorten them to the length that suits your rim, tire, offset combo. I'm using rims with a 2.5 inch offset, but I could have made them an inch longer and got away with it, but I figured to leave a little wiggle room. I got a spare diff that has a posi unit in it. The only trouble is that it has 2.88 gears in it, so I'm going to put the posi unit in my setup with 3.31's. When I get the chance I'm going to shorten the components for spares, and make them an inch longer.
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  11. #129
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    Half Shaft Length

    I forgot to mention that my measurements are from the U joint center, hole to hole.
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  12. #130
    Sick with Opelitus My location broszzy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John B View Post
    Well I got the measurement for you Pat. I shortened them by 2 inches, that would make them around 14 1/8. The originals are roughly 16 1/8, measuring with a tape measure. I guess the main thing is to shorten them to the length that suits your rim, tire, offset combo. I'm using rims with a 2.5 inch offset, but I could have made them an inch longer and got away with it, but I figured to leave a little wiggle room. I got a spare diff that has a posi unit in it. The only trouble is that it has 2.88 gears in it, so I'm going to put the posi unit in my setup with 3.31's. When I get the chance I'm going to shorten the components for spares, and make them an inch longer.
    Thanks John.
    I shortened mine about 4" each. Now I need to find a posi.

    Keep posting the great pictures, love your build!

    Pat.
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    That looks like it was made for it. Come to think of it, it was made for it!

    "All the worlds indeed a stage, we are merely players, performers, & portrayers, each anothers audience, outside the gilded cage"
    Geddy Lee/Neil Peart

  13. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by broszzy View Post
    Thanks John.
    I shortened mine about 4" each. Now I need to find a posi.

    Keep posting the great pictures, love your build!

    Pat.
    Thanks! I did some googling, and was surprised to find that the method we used to shorten ours is the best way to do it, other than trying to find the u joint yokes, and building from scratch. I read that the yolks are $100.00 a piece. I think that when they say they can't be welded, I think they are referring to just cutting the shafts and trying to butt weld them together with no other means of support, although there were some diagrams showing how to do that with a big v groove, but I would never trust that method. Yeah, keep going on your build too.
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  14. #132
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    Well I'm still sanding and going over the car with a fine tooth comb. Nothing new looks wise though. Winter caught up with me as far as any painting is concerned. In the mean time I thought I might post a few pictures of some of my other toys. Back in the early 90's I had an Idea to build a radio controlled snowmobile, so I scratch built ten prototypes. They are a quarter scale of my real skidoo I had bought at the time. They use a .21 size buggy engine. I also have a few radio controlled helicopters.
    I also have a couple of motorcycles and have had a motorcycle since my high school days. Back in High school I had a 750 Norton commando, I wish I still had it today. Now I have 2 bikes, a 87 1000 Honda hurricane, and a 87 Yamaha Rz350. The Rz was a fixer upper and I made the complete body and fairing kit out of fiberglass, with two coloured gel coat in the parts. Boy, back when I got these bikes they weren't that old, where did the time go?
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  15. #133
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    Tube Bender

    Back when I wanted to make the roll cage for my car, I didn't have a bender to do it with. The only way I figured to do it properly was to either bring the car somewhere or do it myself. I worked as an electrician for quite a few years, so I was used to bending conduit, so I thought that making a roll cage couldn't be that much harder or different. The only thing was, I needed a bender to do it with. So I built my own bender, from a picture of one that was advertised in an old circle track magazine that I had laying around. I scrutinized that picture trying to get some type of scale off of it, and finally decided I could build it. I kind of understood how it should work from the picture but as I was making it I was sort of second guessing myself. Anyways, once it was all done it worked just fine. I made a set of dies for 1" 1/2 tube for the cage and 1" tube for my upper control arms.
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  16. #134
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    Lighting

    Last week my brother in law brought me a fixture that some salesman gave him at his work. It's an led street light. At first I thought what am I going to do with it, because we already have a yard light on a pole. It sat in the corner for a couple of days and then I thought, maybe that thing will come in handy for me to see how good and straight my body work is coming. It's always easy to see things on the top surfaces but the sides, and especially the way they curve under on the opel body,make it hard to see. So I made up a bracket and mounted the light on my engine stand.put a plug on the end of the cord and now I'm in business. I can wheel it around and adjust the angle of the light the way I want. What a score.
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  17. #135
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Your project is sooooo cool! You must love walking out into your garage and seeing your handy work.

    Dang, an engine stand-mounted shop light! I'll venture to guess that you've got the sturdiest shop light in town.

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  18. #136
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    Rear Quarter Window Bushings or Grommets

    I decided to tackle replacing the rear quarter panel window bushings, as some of them were totally deteriorated. Taking the front mounting assemblies apart were fairly easy, but the rear ones with the latch were another story. I read some threads on doing it, and found that most suggest drilling the end of the pin, then pushing it out with a punch. I first tried this method and found that drilling the pin leaves a burr that catches on the inner fitting. Well maybe I should have been more careful, but I ended up breaking the fitting in half. They are just a casting so they aren't very strong. Luckily I have a couple of spares. But the method I ended up using, was to cut the pin in half in the center and push each half out from there. To do this I used a hacksaw blade, but a dremmel with a little cutting wheel would be quicker.

    Once I had everything apart I got some measurements and made some new bushings out of polyethylene plastic. I made them in two pieces. I also made some new pins from 1/4 inch brass stock. I turned it down to .200 and made them 1.165 long. I drilled and tapped the ends with a 4-40 tap and used 4-40 screws with a washer for retainers. Got it all back together and now they're as good as new.
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    New Part

    When I took apart my spare window latch assembly the screw was so rusted, the two little protrusions on the bottom side of the clevis piece had snapped off. They are there to engage into the threaded button that is on the outside of the window, to keep it from rotating and falling off. I had put it together anyways, but didn't like the idea that it could come apart without them. So this morning, I set about to make a new piece. Because of the shape of the part holding it in a vise was not possible so I made a little fixture to hold the piece for machining.
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  20. #138
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    Rest of project.
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  21. #139
    Hoosier Opeler Site Supporter My location rrossjr's Avatar
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    John,
    I'm blown away by your attention to detail.
    Thanks for documenting your amazing project.
    Cheers,
    Ron in Indy
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  22. #140
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    A lathe!

    A LATHE ! ! !

    Dang ye!



    That's cheating!

    You have to make all your Opel parts the old school way by beating on them with a hammer until they fit!

    Your outhouse privileges at the Opelonic lodge have been suspended!

    You'll have to pee behind dumpster with the blitz on it until further notice.


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