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  1. #1
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Opel Projects 2017

    Here's my annual thread for y'all to post your Opel projects and plans.


    Myself, I'm running out of things I can do to my car, so I'm down to the nitty gritty. I need to rebuild all or part of the used 2.4 engine I got, not because it runs poorly or anything, but to eliminate some smoke when I floor it and reduce the black spit that comes out of the exhaust and sprays the white wall behind my car in the garage when I'm warming it up. I'm hoping that just having the valve guides redone will do the trick or at least have enough of an effect to bring the spitting down to what I call "normal spitting". My GT's have always spit black soot out the exhaust. My long time driven(225K miles) freshly made 2.0 in my old yellow GT always spit soot right from the time I got it. So did the Red Baron's worn out 2.0. As does my new/used 2.4. From my experience, that's what Opel engines do: They spit soot out the exhaust that leaves a nice trail on my driveway and spit droplets on the tail panel. Yet my engines just run and run and last forever.

    I'd like to try the easiest fix first, which would be to have the valve guides redone, 'cuz I'm hoping that the oil coming out the exhaust is primarily due to oil leakage coming down the guides. I don't really plan on pulling the head and sending it out for machining until next Winter off season. If I could find an extra decent 2.4 head and have that gone over, then maybe I'll put a new head on during the driving season. I'm tired of constantly disabling my GT with some new project during the driving months.

    I really only have a handful of projects left on my plate at the moment. I just got a matched set of rusty GT doors from JLThunder(Jeff) to continue my electric window mock ups:

    IMG_4794.jpg

    I'm hereby offering to set up electric window mods for you guys using these doors. If you find some cable or scissor lifters that you think might work and you send them to me, I'll try to set them up and do the mods necessary to make them work in a GT. I'm not looking to make any money, I'll do you the service pretty much for free, I just want projects to keep me busy. PM me if interested.

    When I get my bag'o'jets back, which are out on loan, I'll move forward with my Steinmetz SSD with smaller 40DCOE project:

    IMG_4795.jpg

    Possibly this frozen weekend I'll get motivated to figure out the install of the trailer hitch reinforcement turnbuckles that Norbert cobbled together:

    IMG_4798.jpg

    Frankly, I haven't been able to figure out exactly where Norb' was going with his design and how he envisioned them to be mounted.

    I'm not completely happy with the look of the Painless Performance black wire loom on the driver's side of my engine compartment. It's great stuff and my wires are well protected, but their black color throws off the esthetic balance of color tones. On the carb side of the engine I've got all sorts of chromy hoses and lines, but on the driver's side all the black wire bundles are dragging the whole look down.

    Ugly black wire loom.jpg

    I don't want to put the cheap common corrugated split red or chromed plastic covers over them. The chromed type sucks really bad, the chrome starts flaking off as you're installing it and it's black underneath the chrome. I searched for some sort of sprial, wind-around, wire loom in red or chrome/silver and couldn't find anything. I stumbled across this silvery/grey stuff that might do the trick:

    IMG_4793.jpg

    It looks like it's the wind-around kind, but it's actually split straight along it's length and has gaps all along it to allow individual wires to exit the the main bundle. It's gonna be tough to install on an already wired up situation and it's intended that you slide your unattached wires through the stuff BEFORE you attach the wiring to your car. It came with a nifty "wire inserter tool" to guide the wires into the loom. I probably won't be able to use it, but we'll see how it goes. I don't know if I'll remove the black loom and install the silver stuff instead or if I'll put the silver stuff over and around the existing black wire loom.

    IMG_4791.jpg IMG_4792.jpg



    So, what's on your Opel plate this year?
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  3. #2
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Here's my annual thread for y'all to post your Opel projects and plans.
    Semi-Annual?
    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-st...ts-2017-a.html
    69whitegt likes this.
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
    www.alt-opel.us
    @opelgary


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    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post

    Possibly this frozen weekend I'll get motivated to figure out the install of the trailer hitch reinforcement turnbuckles that Norbert cobbled together:

    IMG_4798.jpg

    Frankly, I haven't been able to figure out exactly where Norb' was going with his design and how he envisioned them to be mounted.

    So, what's on your Opel plate this year?
    Ha ha
    I show you the pictures from mounting at my GT long time ago!
    Left and right one are different! Why?? The towing eye on Driverside is closer to the frame.So I must drill the center of the holes for the brass bushing different!
    On your picture the buckle near the drill mashine is the driver side
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  6. #4
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Attached Images Attached Images
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    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
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    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post

    Hey! I'm running out of names for threads, okay?

    Wanna rename it "Opel Projects 2017 - Part Duex"?

    And I'm old and stupid, also!

    He who starts the most threads wins!

    Uhhh.....I didn't start that first thread.........my evil twin Odrog did it.

    Uhhhh.....Autoguide pays me to start threads, so that people click on more stuff and wait for ads to download.

    Uhhhhh...........
    Gary likes this.

  8. #6
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I just went out and took some pictures:

    IMG_4800.jpg IMG_4804.jpg

    Hmmm.....it looks like we go our distances wrong, they're too long.

    But.....hmmmmm.......in your picture I now see that you appear to have them mounted on an angle pointing inwards from the eye holes towards the center of the crossbar:


    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post

    So is this your idea? I should mount them on an angle towards the center?



  9. #7
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    And what the heck is this?:


    Amerikansky Dummkopf Bolt.jpg


    Amerikansky Dummkopf Bolt?



  10. #8
    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post





    So is this your idea? I should mount them on an angle towards the center?


    You never have static math at shool
    So you didn`t know to share the result power with a angle to the main point of towing power!

  11. #9
    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    And what the heck is this?:


    Amerikansky Dummkopf Bolt.jpg


    Amerikansky Dummkopf Bolt?


    No No
    German engineer 4 bolt system for the original towing hitch.
    I have the 4 bolts still in place without the hitch!
    The Scifi Guy likes this.

  12. #10
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Yes, Gordon. You install them at an angle to the center because a triangle is a stronger structure than a square. Especially true when lateral forces are in play.

    Your original turnbuckles are adequate for pulling, only. They won't do anything for stopping. And when you think of a sideways force, you have a parallelogram.

    With Norberts setup, any front/back/sideways force applied to the center of the system (the hitch) is transferred as a straight line force to the reinforcement points.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  13. #11
    Opel Key Master My location opelspyder's Avatar
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    It's a good time to buy from Europe with the Euro being .92 to 1usd! That's probably going to get a little better too
    Check out our Opel restorations at
    www.newvintageauto.com

  14. #12
    Site Founder My location Gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by norbertone.gt371 View Post
    You never have static math at shool
    So you didn`t know to share the result power with a angle to the main point of towing power!
    Here is Norbert's translation about statics:
    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Yes, Gordon. You install them at an angle to the center because a triangle is a stronger structure than a square. Especially true when lateral forces are in play.

    Your original turnbuckles are adequate for pulling, only. They won't do anything for stopping. And when you think of a sideways force, you have a parallelogram.

    With Norberts setup, any front/back/sideways force applied to the center of the system (the hitch) is transferred as a straight line force to the reinforcement points.
    My 24 Valve Ascona A wagon project blog.
    www.alt-opel.us
    @opelgary


  15. #13
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Also, Gordon.

    If you are getting oil past the valves, your valve SEALS are the issue.
    Opel had a really cruddy valve seal design and the best way to fix it is to have your valve bosses ground down to accommodate a positive seal. I use Chevy Vitron seals on my heads when I have them worked.

    You can't have the valve bosses ground down unless you remove the head and take it to a shop. Once you do that you would be dropping another $600 into the head cuz you will want to do it right.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  16. #14
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opelspyder View Post
    It's a good time to buy from Europe with the Euro being .92 to 1usd! That's probably going to get a little better too

    Do you mean that I should try to get an oem GT trailer hitch?

    I looked into it about 4-5 years ago and I think it was Suselbeek that offered me a used one for about $400. I think there was an issue where I couldn't use it on my Red Baron car due to exhaust clearance. Or maybe I was poor and could only swing the dough for the used American one I got. I guess it would be worth it to look into getting one again.

    Here's what the oem ones look like:

    Opel GT factory trailer hitch.jpg Oem GT trailer hitch diagram.jpg

    Here's my American one:

    Opel GT aftermarket trailer hitch (1).jpg

    FYI: Here's the one sold to fit Pontiac Solstice/Saturn Sky's

    Solstice trailer hitch.jpg

    As you can see, the Solstice one has a similar design to the oem type. Both types drill vertically into the frame rails, whereas my American one grabs the frame crossbar and also uses the rear bumperettes as a mounting point for an ugly secondary external crossbar. I deleted the external bar and had bars welded to either side of the tongue to keep it from rotating and swinging right/left, but I don't trust the frame crossbar as my only mounting point, so I added the turnbuckles as a temporary reinforcement.

  17. #15
    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    I remember you want not remove the whole wood and fuel tank out of the GTX

    You must drill the two size holes from under the frame and put in the screws from inside the car.The distance pipes came in from
    under side into the frame!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #16
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Also, Gordon.

    If you are getting oil past the valves, your valve SEALS are the issue.
    Opel had a really cruddy valve seal design and the best way to fix it is to have your valve bosses ground down to accommodate a positive seal. I use Chevy Vitron seals on my heads when I have them worked.

    You can't have the valve bosses ground down unless you remove the head and take it to a shop. Once you do that you would be dropping another $600 into the head cuz you will want to do it right.
    The 2.4 heads have positive seals as OEM, and they are in fact viton. I've used 2.4 seals on other Opel heads as an upgrade when using Opel valves.
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  19. #17
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    The 2.4 heads have positive seals as OEM, and they are in fact viton. I've used 2.4 seals on other Opel heads as an upgrade when using Opel valves.
    Good info to put in my brain. My experience is only 1.9 and mods to those engines so knowing they did it right on the 2.4 is good.

    Even with the already macined valve bosses, replacing the valve seals with the head still on will be a challenge and not one, necessarily, for the backyard mechanic to accomplish easily.

    Even if I were only replacing the valve seals, the head would come off. It's just too easy to do and has such a low risk factor.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  20. #18
    Opelitis afflicted My location charlie1966's Avatar
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    My first opel project for the year is to get my newly acquired Calibra Turbo back on the road. Parts for that are accruing nicely.

    Last weekend an Aston I have been storing for a friend was collected for some much needed love.

    Behind the AM was a parts GT I got 6 years ago. It's a 1970 US car lowered about an inch all round.

    It had been out of sight and out of mind but now I'm having thoughts, really bad thoughts. This is where stage 2 Opelitis begins I think. It has never started, the loom has been butchered, the floors are badly rusted but the sills seem fine, it has a fiberglass belly-pan and there is very little of the interior left. I'm thinking of turning it into a track car. Now I know there are many reasons not to, from it's a classic car to there are more modern cars which will go faster for less money. It's Opelitis so it doesn't have to make logical sense. I'm not looking to set the world on fire just to have a little fun on the odd track day. I'm not sure what my plans are, though first I will need to see if the engine will even turn. If I do go down this path I will stick up a project thread on it.


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  21. #19
    Opelitis afflicted My location charlie1966's Avatar
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    Well this 2017 idea went down hill very quickly. The engine seems to be seized so the plan will be shelved maybe until SciFi Guys projects for 2018 thread.
    The Scifi Guy likes this.
    "You can't fix stupid, but stupid eventually fixes itself." -Issac T.

  22. #20
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    No, NO, NO! The name of this thread is NOT "Unfinished Opel Project 2017"! You still have 9 months to get that engine unseized. Okay, here's a more attainable Opel project for you: Wipe all the dust off that car and pull out the interior. You're going to have to do it eventually anyway. Go out every day and do one simple thing. Remove a screw. Wipe away some crud. Start the process of taking all the parts off the car. A screw here, a bolt there. Then you'll be able to patch that floor with beer cans and put the engine from your Astin Martin in it for track day.


    I've made good progress on my projects. I needed to recalibrate my fuel gauge and what I thought would be a one hour process turned into a 2 day 6 hour odyssey, as documented in this thread:

    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/fuel-ta...gs-gallon.html

    Gallons-Ohms graph with data and capacity.jpg

    I chopped open, filed, cleaned, and painted my newly acquired rusty GT driver's door, then installed the other scissor lifter assembly in it.:

    Drivers side electric window mock up door (1).jpg

    Discussed in this thread:

    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/2b-seat...ml#post1206370

    I also installed Norbert's trailer hitch reinforcement:

    Trailer hitch crossbar reinforcement (1).jpg Trailer hitch crossbar reinforcement (2).jpg Trailer hitch crossbar reinforcement (3).jpg

    Next on the list is the silver wire wrap.......


    Get crackin' youse guys!



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    4. Show us the results of your winter Opel projects
      By GeorgeOpel in forum General Discussions
      Replies: 16
      Last Post: 03-08-2014, 09:19 AM

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