Biting off a lot, but want to make it work
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Thread: Biting off a lot, but want to make it work

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    Biting off a lot, but want to make it work

    So some of you may remember I have a 1973 Opel Manta rust bucket that I was hoping to restore. After many of you gave me some great advice, I realize it is beyond financial reasoning to do that. In comes my new purchase. A 1974 Opel Manta from Southern California, complete but with no engine.

    My plan:

    - strip the car
    - sand/grind off the surface rust/sun baking
    - fix any minor body blemishes
    - prep/sand/prime for paint
    - new paint job

    With the newly minted frame in order, I'll migrate many of the good parts (seats, steering wheel, gauges, etc.) from my 73 (including the chrome bumpers). I will also remove the enginge from the 73, strip it down, rebuild it and install.

    Thoughts / Feedback?

    My initial questions are these:

    1) What should I expect to pay for a paint job in Canada/Washington State (if there is a big enough cost savings, I have no problem driving it down as I'm right on the border)?
    2) How long should it take to get a car back from the paint shop?
    3) Any issues you see with my plan?
    4) The 74 appears to be an automatic. Is there a reference point you could send me to convert it back to manual? This would be more of an interior thing, as I don't have an automatic transmission, just the gear selector inside the car
    5) Any tips you can give me that will help speed things along?

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  3. #2
    OpelGT.com Übermoderator My location kwilford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanhost View Post
    So some of you may remember I have a 1973 Opel Manta rust bucket that I was hoping to restore. After many of you gave me some great advice, I realize it is beyond financial reasoning to do that. In comes my new purchase. A 1974 Opel Manta from Southern California, complete but with no engine.

    My plan:

    - strip the car
    - sand/grind off the surface rust/sun baking
    - fix any minor body blemishes
    - prep/sand/prime for paint
    - new paint job

    With the newly minted frame in order, I'll migrate many of the good parts (seats, steering wheel, gauges, etc.) from my 73 (including the chrome bumpers). I will also remove the enginge from the 73, strip it down, rebuild it and install.

    Thoughts / Feedback?

    My initial questions are these:

    1) What should I expect to pay for a paint job in Canada/Washington State (if there is a big enough cost savings, I have no problem driving it down as I'm right on the border)?
    2) How long should it take to get a car back from the paint shop?
    3) Any issues you see with my plan?
    4) The 74 appears to be an automatic. Is there a reference point you could send me to convert it back to manual? This would be more of an interior thing, as I don't have an automatic transmission, just the gear selector inside the car
    5) Any tips you can give me that will help speed things along?
    Which Manta did you purchase? I presume it was from Todd. Do you have photos?

    Your plan seems fine. Your list will grow by hundreds of items before you are done, but I suspect that you know that. Answers? Some cheeky, all have some basis in reality:

    1) What should I expect to pay for a paint job in Canada/Washington State (if there is a big enough cost savings, I have no problem driving it down as I'm right on the border)?

    Much depends on how much you will do and how good a paint job you want, but essentially how much the body shop has to do determines the price. I don't know if WA has cheaper paint shops. Mexico is cheap, but a bit far to trailer. Saskatchewan is cheaper than BC and Alberta; small towns are cheaper than big cities. In Calgary, a simple Maaco-style paint job (no body work, almost no prep, minimum of masking, no trim removal etc) will run you between $500 and $1000 CAD. A medium quality paint job, with some reasonable prep done by them, will run between $2,000 and $5,000 CAD. A very good paint job can easily cost $10k, or twice that for a show quality outcome. Add body work to those costs.

    2) How long should it take to get a car back from the paint shop?

    Too many variables. Between a week and a year. Hmm, maybe two years...


    3) Any issues you see with my plan?

    See above

    4) The 74 appears to be an automatic. Is there a reference point you could send me to convert it back to manual? This would be more of an interior thing, as I don't have an automatic transmission, just the gear selector inside the car

    Since you are taking the good stuff off the '73 which I believe has a 4-speed, it should be simple to use that Manta as the template

    5) Any tips you can give me that will help speed things along?

    Make sure that you have lots of money, or lots of time, and really you need both. Good luck and happy Opel'ing!
    MikeNotigan and John B like this.
    Keith Wilford
    Working on the bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT, and may have another GT to build next...

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    Opeler My location Bill Hoffmann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanhost View Post

    My initial questions are these:

    4) The 74 appears to be an automatic. Is there a reference point you could send me to convert it back to manual? This would be more of an interior thing, as I don't have an automatic transmission, just the gear selector inside the car
    There are several body differences between manual and automatic cars:

    1. automatic cars have no provision for clutch cable mount on the firewall
    2. rear transmission mount locations are different
    3. hole in the transmission tunnel is rectangular on automatic and round on manual

    There are other differences besides the transmission itself, but since you have a donor car those should not be a problem. For example, the drive shaft, the pedals, and the center console will have to be changed over.

    Bill

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    Senior Member My location tealcarver's Avatar
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    Vanhost: I did the paint on my GT myself. Lots of prep work, and a lot of work. I did a two part polyurethane with color coat as the first stage, then within 24 hours you have to do the clear coat. The reason I did myself is the cost several years ago was over $5000, I almost choked when I was quoted the price. If you have any experience in painting, you will save a ton of money by doing it yourself. It does take some skill, but it isn't overwhelming. You also need access to a painting booth. I built mine on the side of the house and covered it with a canvas garage. Had to put nylon screens on the sides so there wouldn't be any bugs in the paint. Total cost was about $700, and the paint came out really great. I've gotten a lot of positive comments and a couple job offers with it. Not for every one by any means, but at least you know what you have.

    Bob
    Bill Hoffmann likes this.
    71 Chrome Yellow GT

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    Quote Originally Posted by kwilford View Post
    Which Manta did you purchase? I presume it was from Todd. Do you have photos?

    Yes, I got it from Todd. I expect it to be on the truck in the next few days. So far, my interactions with him have been excellent (despite the various opinions I've read). Hopefully the car arrives and no suprises present themselves. Photos attached.

    Your plan seems fine. Your list will grow by hundreds of items before you are done, but I suspect that you know that. Answers? Some cheeky, all have some basis in reality:

    I totally understand that I can't plan this out 100% from start to finish with zero hiccups along the way. Just trying to minimize the element of surprise

    1) What should I expect to pay for a paint job in Canada/Washington State (if there is a big enough cost savings, I have no problem driving it down as I'm right on the border)?

    Much depends on how much you will do and how good a paint job you want, but essentially how much the body shop has to do determines the price. I don't know if WA has cheaper paint shops. Mexico is cheap, but a bit far to trailer. Saskatchewan is cheaper than BC and Alberta; small towns are cheaper than big cities. In Calgary, a simple Maaco-style paint job (no body work, almost no prep, minimum of masking, no trim removal etc) will run you between $500 and $1000 CAD. A medium quality paint job, with some reasonable prep done by them, will run between $2,000 and $5,000 CAD. A very good paint job can easily cost $10k, or twice that for a show quality outcome. Add body work to those costs.

    Yes, I have come to realize that there is a wide range of pricing in regards to paint. I'll shop around, I just want a decent job, nothing show worthy, that will last for awhile

    2) How long should it take to get a car back from the paint shop?

    Too many variables. Between a week and a year. Hmm, maybe two years...

    Well, 2 years will be an issue. Will keep you posted

    3) Any issues you see with my plan?

    See above

    4) The 74 appears to be an automatic. Is there a reference point you could send me to convert it back to manual? This would be more of an interior thing, as I don't have an automatic transmission, just the gear selector inside the car

    Since you are taking the good stuff off the '73 which I believe has a 4-speed, it should be simple to use that Manta as the template

    5) Any tips you can give me that will help speed things along?

    Make sure that you have lots of money, or lots of time, and really you need both. Good luck and happy Opel'ing!

    Thanks for the reply. My responses inline in bold.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Hoffmann View Post
    There are several body differences between manual and automatic cars:

    1. automatic cars have no provision for clutch cable mount on the firewall
    2. rear transmission mount locations are different
    3. hole in the transmission tunnel is rectangular on automatic and round on manual

    There are other differences besides the transmission itself, but since you have a donor car those should not be a problem. For example, the drive shaft, the pedals, and the center console will have to be changed over.

    Bill
    Great advice, thank you. This is something I hadn't considered, so nice to know that I will know the surprise is forthcoming.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tealcarver View Post
    Vanhost: I did the paint on my GT myself. Lots of prep work, and a lot of work. I did a two part polyurethane with color coat as the first stage, then within 24 hours you have to do the clear coat. The reason I did myself is the cost several years ago was over $5000, I almost choked when I was quoted the price. If you have any experience in painting, you will save a ton of money by doing it yourself. It does take some skill, but it isn't overwhelming. You also need access to a painting booth. I built mine on the side of the house and covered it with a canvas garage. Had to put nylon screens on the sides so there wouldn't be any bugs in the paint. Total cost was about $700, and the paint came out really great. I've gotten a lot of positive comments and a couple job offers with it. Not for every one by any means, but at least you know what you have.

    Bob
    When you say experience with paint, I'm assuming you mean car paint? This will be my virgin project, so no car painting under my belt. And the car isn't for me, so not sure I want to test my skills on something I don't have to live with every day But $700 does sound appealing. In my area, there are places that rent booths. Roughly $300/day.

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    Being that I will have to move the car around to a few different places and I don't have a trailer, I would be renting one each time. Anyone have any experience with using a tow bar (https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adj...ords=tow+bar)?

    I figure if this worked to move the vehicle from place to place, it could also be used to pull the car out of the garage to work on in the driveway where there is more room when needed.

    Thoughts/issues?

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    Senior Member My location tealcarver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanhost View Post
    When you say experience with paint, I'm assuming you mean car paint? This will be my virgin project, so no car painting under my belt. And the car isn't for me, so not sure I want to test my skills on something I don't have to live with every day But $700 does sound appealing. In my area, there are places that rent booths. Roughly $300/day.
    Yeah, I used to do motorcycles when I was in high school. (many many years ago). I started with motorcycles and motorcycle tanks, then did flames on cars. Made some pretty good spending money back in those days. You are right, if you have had no experience with a spray gun, it would be rough. When I did my GT, I had to spray on primer and sand out the little imperfections. Probably three gallons of primer. By the time I was happy with it, I had a refresher course in spray painting. I had not shot polyurethane before the GT, but I think its easier than the old acrylic lacquer. When I went to get the paint, I asked for chrome yellow in acrylic lacquer and the paint guy asked me when was the last time I painted a car. They didn't even carry it and said it was not even made any more. So I did polyurethane.

    Probably better to do most of the prep work (if you can) and at least that will cut down some of the expenses of the paint job. It's like so many other things, you get what you pay for. Good Luck, I hope you can find someone who will do a great job on your car and not charge you an arm and a leg.

    Bob
    71 Chrome Yellow GT

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    strip the car
    - sand/grind off the surface rust/sun baking
    - fix any minor body blemishes
    - prep/sand/prime for paint
    - new paint job

    Hi,
    The thing that jumped out at me (I'm no expert. I am still learning but I may be on a different spot on the curve ) is priming is done the same day you remove the rust. Normal primer is porous and won't stop rust, but if you use epoxy primer it completely seals and you bondo straight on top which stops rust migrating under the filler. Buy a gravity feed gun with about a 1.4mm jet. that way u can mix your paint. hardener, and reducer (just what you need using table spoons)and don't waist a drop. A little goes a fair way but make sure you paint corners edges and tight spots first to ensure a good rust stopping seal than 2 coats min. You will get good at mixing just what you need. I try and do my painting as my last job so I just mix paint and clean up once.
    I hope this helps and may be someone else will have a different way to do things and we will both learn.
    Alex

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