Sportwagon from hell...header pics

[Gumby]

Originally Posted by RallyBob These fittings are actually quite rigid, so it shouldn't be an issue. It's not dead-soft copper. Bob

Rallybob is right about the copper lines. Only pure copper is really soft, most alloys are hard and abrasive.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by RallyBob I thought about that too, but I suspect the fuel volume inside the tank will have a cooling effect on the metal of the tank itself, especially sloshing about and all that.

Just a little on thermodynamics, Bob. The skin of the fuel tank will try to maintain a happy medium throughout its surface. So if it gets warmer in one area, the heat will transfer to the rest of the skin. Then of course the fuel will also try to heat up, but, because there's more volume of fuel the temp increase will only be a couple of degrees. Got this education on the Blackbird. Skin temp was around 600-1200 degrees F, and fuel temp going to the engines was around 450 degrees F. If the fuel got too hot, it was routed back to the tanks to get cooled down, again.

[Tru-Craft]

I agree with Gumby, copper alloy is a tough material!
The exhaust temp at the rear of the car can't be more than 300F at max rpm!? Plus you have an air gap, temp is no problem. Maybe stick a piece of heat shield material on the tank?
The only concern for me was dis-simular metals and fuel?
But you solved that with the nickle plating and hoses between the fuel lines.
I like it, cheap, simple and cool looking.

Hey Bob, a few years ago I saw a guy bend small medical tubing at a very tight bend and no kinking!
Trick........he used a compression spring that fit inside the tubing.
Have also seen an O-ring used the same way.
Lyle

[RallyBob]

I haven't updated in a while, but then again not much has developed lately worthy of photos. I managed to complete the jack pad rebuild however. Unlike the OEM jack pad which is not sealed tight to the body, I decided to make mine watertight. The OEM jack pad tends to fill with water and sand/debris, then rots from the inside out.

EDIT: added another photo showing the inside of my new jack pad. It's made from rectangular tubing with 14 gauge sheet welded to the outside to fit it to the floorpan. The jacking tube itself is round chromoly steel tubing I had laying around.

[RallyBob]

While the rear differential was apart, I also took the time to replace the axle bearings, seals, and gaskets. Since the axles were torn apart, I painted them and installed some 1/2"-20 ARP wheel studs. I may end up trimming them shorter eventually.

While the rack and pinion was torn down for rebuilding, I also decided to send the outer housing out for powdercoating. This core was rather dinged up from previous engine removals and whatnot, so I sanded it down smooth for a cleaner look.

The rear shocks are being re-used from the car. They're an older set of Rancho RS9000's, which are 5-way adjustable. I sanded them smooth and painted them 'Laubfrosch' green. Hey, it's an Opel color!

[RallyBob]

I also spent a bit of time with the starter. I was originally just going to send the outer shell out for powdercoating yellow, and leave the rest black. But when I tore it apart, it was nasty inside. I don't know who rebuilt it last time around, but it was pretty ugly! Even the electrical portion was packed with grease, and about 50% of the starter had sand mixed in with the grease, including the planetary drive. That can't be good! So a severe cleaning was required....

I then dug out my stamp set, and made a tag for the rear axle housing. I figured this way I would never forget what was installed inside the housing! Nor will the owner.

I wish I could say the axle is fully assembled, but I've had nothing but issues trying to find every little part. And to make matters worse, when I finally found all the new parts, I was in the process of cleaning the threads on the new ring gear (there's phosphate in them), and broke a tap off inside the ring gear! Well, hardened ring gear and hardened tap means it won't drill out very easily, so I have to save my pennies and buy a small carbide end mill and then bring it to a friend's shop to mill the broken tap out. Eventually...

[namba209]

Originally Posted by RallyBob And to make matters worse, when I finally found all the new parts, I was in the process of cleaning the threads on the new ring gear (there's phosphate in them), and broke a tap off inside the ring gear! Well, hardened ring gear and hardened tap means it won't drill out very easily, so I have to save my pennies and buy a small carbide end mill and then bring it to a friend's shop to mill the broken tap out. Eventually...

Bob, if you have a dremel with assorted collets, or something similar, I can send you a rotary file that went through a tap thet I broke off in Willit?'s exhaust bolt hole. It took about 15 minutes to get the busted tap out. Send me a PM with your address and it will be in the snail mail post haste.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by namba209 Bob, if you have a dremel with assorted collets, or something similar, I can send you a rotary file that went through a tap thet I broke off in Willit?'s exhaust bolt hole. It took about 15 minutes to get the busted tap out. Send me a PM with your address and it will be in the snail mail post haste.

I don't have a Dremel Ron, but I have a Foredom 1/3rd HP electric die grinder and a selection of about 30-40 carbide burrs. It would still take forever to grind out that way, I feel safer milling the broken tap out on a Bridgeport to avoid possibly damaging the threads in the ring gear.

I did the same thing when I broke a cobalt pilot drill off in the fuel rail I was making for this car. Simply milled it out with a carbide end mill, took 30 seconds!

[LeftLaneGuy]

In the motorcycle shop, we usee a laser-type machine that just gets out the tool... Works better in aluminum parts.. Takes less than 1 minute.. I forget what it's called...

[jordan]

Originally Posted by LeftLaneGuy In the motorcycle shop, we usee a laser-type machine that just gets out the tool... Works better in aluminum parts.. Takes less than 1 minute.. I forget what it's called...

Probably an EDM "Electrical Discharge Machining" very precise method to machine things, though they are commonly used to remove broken tools.

[Hiro]

Originally Posted by RallyBob I don't have a Dremel Ron, but I have a Foredom 1/3rd HP electric die grinder and a selection of about 30-40 carbide burrs. It would still take forever to grind out that way, I feel safer milling the broken tap out on a Bridgeport to avoid possibly damaging the threads in the ring gear. I did the same thing when I broke a cobalt pilot drill off in the fuel rail I was making for this car. Simply milled it out with a carbide end mill, took 30 seconds!

Bob how does this electric die grinder compares with the classic air die grinder?
is it easy to move precisely within the runners with this flexible shaft hanging at the rear of the tool?
Hiro

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by Hiro Bob how does this electric die grinder compares with the classic air die grinder? is it easy to move precisely within the runners with this flexible shaft hanging at the rear of the tool? Hiro

Hiro, I have ported heads for 24 years now. I always used air die grinders, and my style of grinding is very aggressive....I apply much pressure to the tools! So as a result I wear out grinders fast no matter how much they cost, at most they last 6 months. Plus, I have carpal tunnel in my forearms due to this, and partial deafness from the loud noise they make.

Now, last year I bought this Foredom TX440 grinder, and I'm kicking myself for not buying one 20 years ago! I remember thinking 'Oh it's too expensive', but in fact it would have been cheaper by far over the years. It is nearly silent, and the smaller diameter of the grinder is easier for me to hold in my hands. Speed is variable with a foot-pedal, from 500 to 15,000 rpms. Also it has 1/3 HP and of course you don't need an air compressor to use it (also quieter!).

The cable does not bother me at all, it is no worse than having an air hose on a normal die grinder. The small diameter of the grinder handle can actually be placed inside many ports for deeper access for grinding! It is only 1" (25.4 mm) in diameter, so it is very compact.

The chuck also allows for very fast tool changes....I modified mine a bit by welding handles to the tools they supply, it gives far more leverage, but I can swap a cutter in 10 seconds or less now.

HTH,
Bob

[Gumby]

My gunsmith uses one of those. He seems very fond of it.

[Tru-Craft]

Originally Posted by RallyBob I broke a tap off inside the ring gear! Well, hardened ring gear and hardened tap means it won't drill out very easily, so I have to save my pennies and buy a small carbide end mill and then bring it to a friend's shop to mill the broken tap out. Eventually...

Hey Bob, your a good welder. You could try welding (TIG) an old allen wrench onto the broken tap. The heat wont be a problem for the gear, just a couple tacks. Sometimes the heat will loosen the tap.
If it is broken flush, I have built up weld on the end of the tap and used vise grips.
Use a tapping fluid and if your lucky.........
Worth a try.
Lyle

[samdog]

Hey Bob, What a great idea...."Rally Bob, for all Opels and Toiletry needs"....you could fix other stuff in your spare time.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by samdog Hey Bob, What a great idea...."Rally Bob, for all Opels and Toiletry needs"....you could fix other stuff in your spare time.

Don't you have a beach or a sandbox to go drive in?

[samdog]

beach? beach! You don' have to be so beachy

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by samdog you could fix other stuff in your spare time.

If I push that yellow wagon outside in the parking lot I'd have a LOT of spare time...