1.9 w/ 2.2 Long Stroke Crank

[2 Fast 4 U]

After a lot of questions in a "few" threads, I've decided to go on with the 1.9 conversion to a 1.9 long stroke [±2100 cc] engine.

This conversion will be very low budget, I will only be using the parts I have.

From the 2.2, [1 & 2] I will be using the crankshaft and the head, and maybe some other parts as well.

From the 1.9, [3 & 4] I will be using everything exept wat I will use from the 2.2.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Started with taking of the 2.2 head, the PO used two types of headbolts, two bolts had the triple square and the other 8 were the inside hex bolts, almost wrecked one because of the different bolts.

To be able to turn the crankshaft, I loosend all the nuts from the rockers, so I could seperate the timing chain lock. [#1]

After removing the head bolts [and the two extra in the front], I could lift the head off of the block [after tapping it with a hammer]. The piston tops have a lot of carbon on them as well as the 4 combustion chambers in the head.

[2 Fast 4 U]

While I was turning the crankshaft I noticed that the hydraulic valve lifters were moving very smooth up and down, after removing the head and putting it on a workmate, I could remove all the valve lifters very easily, for what I can see they are in very good condition, I made a photo of one, the exhaust valve lifter from the 4th cylinder.

[opelnut10]

Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U After a lot of questions in a "few" threads, I've decided to go on with the 1.9 conversion to a 1.9 long stroke [±2100 cc] engine. This conversion will be very low budget, I will only be using the parts I have. From the 2.2, [1 & 2] I will be using the crankshaft and the head, and maybe some other parts as well. From the 1.9, [3 & 4] I will be using everything exept wat I will use from the 2.2.

If you are going to use the 2.2 head make sure you also use an extra bolts front cover to avoid a possible leak if you use a 1.9 non-extra bolts head. Does the market know you have altered their shopping card for and engine carrier (3&4) Also the picture of the lifter botton looks like it has some wear, make sure you put the lifters back in the same hole they came out of to avoid excessive wear.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by opelnut10 If you are going to use the 2.2 head make sure you also use an extra bolts front cover to avoid a possible leak if you use a 1.9 non-extra bolts head. Does the market know you have altered their shopping card for and engine carrier (3&4) Also the picture of the lifter botton looks like it has some wear, make sure you put the lifters back in the same hole they came out of to avoid excessive wear.

. . . and mated with their original rockers too! . . . just to be on the safe side!

Uh, Erick, refresh my memory, why is it that you're not just using the 2.2 engine in its entirety, i.e. rebuild the 2.2 instead of all the trouble of shaving 1.9 pistons and fly-cutting valve reliefs?

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by opelnut10 If you are going to use the 2.2 head make sure you also use an extra bolts front cover to avoid a possible leak if you use a 1.9 non-extra bolts head.

I know, the other engine I wanted to use doesn't have those extra bolt holes, it's the original 1972 engine that was in the car when I bought it, but the PO said that there was a tic in it so I swaped the later model 1.9 that was with the car

Originally Posted by opelnut10 Also the picture of the lifter botton looks like it has some wear,........

That is what I was thinking too.

Originally Posted by opelnut10 ....make sure you put the lifters back in the same hole they came out of to avoid excessive wear.

All the parts are going to be put back in the same place they came from

Originally Posted by opelnut10 Does the market know you have altered their shopping card for and engine carrier (3&4)

Have to dissapoint you, its from the cleaning company that cleans the offices at work, it was throwen on the scrap metal container, it looked all right so I brought it home, it comes in very handy.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . and mated with their original rockers too! . . . just to be on the safe side!

Wil be done:

Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U All the parts are going to be put back in the same place they came from

Originally Posted by tekenaar Uh, Erick, refresh my memory, why is it that you're not just using the 2.2 engine in its entirety, i.e. rebuild the 2.2 instead of all the trouble of shaving 1.9 pistons and fly-cutting valve reliefs?

Why does one go all the way in putting an engine in a car, that has cost a fortune?

First of all I just want to see if it can be done, and second I want to keep the 1.9 block stock for technical reasons, if I use the 2.2 there wil be power questions at the APK [Dutch MOT], using the 1.9 block I can avoid that and still [almost] have the the power of the 2.2, even though I only have roughly a few cc's more than 2100 cc, but it is more than 200 cc more than the 1.9.

So, in fact, I'm doing the same as everybody, only with the few resources I have for doing this and, to be honest, you have to start somewhere in order to get experience so you can step up to the next challenge??

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U Wil be done: First of all I just want to see if it can be done, and second I want to keep the 1.9 block stock for technical reasons, if I use the 2.2 there wil be power questions at the APK [Dutch MOT], using the 1.9 block I can avoid that and still [almost] have the the power of the 2.2, even though I only have roughly a few cc's more than 2100 cc, but it is more than 200 cc more than the 1.9. So, in fact, I'm doing the same as everybody, only with the few resources I have for doing this and, to be honest, you have to start somewhere in order to get experience so you can step up to the next challenge??

. . . post lots of pics of this conversion here, as likely you'll do it before I will . . . all is ready to go except for "paid-for" 2.2 crank's arrival from Germany.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . post lots of pics of this conversion here,

That's one thing I'll sure do!!

Originally Posted by tekenaar .... as likely you'll do it before I will . . . all is ready to go except for "paid-for" 2.2 crank's arrival from Germany.

I hope so

[2 Fast 4 U]

Did a little work on the 2.2 this morning, turned the block upside down and removed the oil pan and had a look at the crank shaft [#1-3] and the inside of the oil pan [#4]

[2 Fast 4 U]

I'm having trouble removing the pulley from the crank I don't know how to get it off the bolt is not budging, I already bent a screwdriver trying

[oldopelguy]

It's easier to hold the end of the flywheel than the crankshaft bolts, more leverage. It's easier still to get a flat piece of metal and drill three holes in it, two for two adjacent flywheel bolts and a third for one of the engine-to-bell housing bolts. Crankshaft can't move then, so you can put enough leverage on the bolt to break it loose.

[2 Fast 4 U]

@ oldopelguy thanks for the tip

I went further with the head, and removed the rocker, nut and some kind of washer [you can see it in the photos].

Because of the oil residue on everything, I tried, with success, to clean things up, in photo #1 you can see the result, this was done with OXI-FIX a additive for washing detergent for clothes, it contains natriumpercarbonate and some other stuff, added to water it free's oxygen for cleaning.

In photo #2 the rocker has been done with a dish washer detergent, the result is the same so I'm going to use the oxi-fix [it's cheaper]

In photo #3 & 4 you can see my "dish washer"

[2 Fast 4 U]

After the "dish washing" I removed the exhaust valve of the 4th cylinder, not easy even with the special tool [I'll take some photos, removing a valve, tomorrow]

In photo #1 & 2 The complete line up for operating the valve [exept the cam]
1: hydraulic lifter
2: rocker with nut and washer
3: valve spring retainer halves
4: in the front the rotocap this sits between the head and the valve spring, and lets the valve rotate
5: valve spring cover [behind rotocap]
6: exhaust valve [GM T-T 29100]
7: valve stem rubber [next to valve spring cover]
8: valve spring, there are some spots of paint on it does this mean anything??

In photo #3 you can see the "washed" stuff, the only thing that didn't go is the carbon build-up on the valve, how does one remove that, without scratching the valve to much??

[wrench459]

Try household oven cleaner to clean the carbon off.
It'll take over night or a wire brush.

[tekenaar]

Quick note on your three valve train pics, first two pics show correct spring mounting orientation . . . in third pic, spring is shown upside down. Opel CIH valve springs are installed with close-wound coils at the bottom . . . just a reminder.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by wrench459 Try household oven cleaner to clean the carbon off. It'll take over night or a wire brush.

Thanks for the tips

Originally Posted by tekenaar Quick note on your three valve train pics, first two pics show correct spring mounting orientation . . . in third pic, spring is shown upside down. Opel CIH valve springs are installed with close-wound coils at the bottom . . . just a reminder.

I noticed that , but it didn't register , thanks for the reminder Otto

Haven't done anything on the engine today, [due to a little surgery], but I looked for threads and other stuff on engine work, parts and stuff like that . . .

[2 Fast 4 U]

I have been working on my valve spring compressor today, because when I removed one valve the thing broke down on me, so I repaired it today, the right way here some photos:

[2 Fast 4 U]

I used a 34 mm socket and cut a ring ± 10 mm off the socket #1
from a 24/27 mm box spanner I cut of the 27 mm piece #2
spot welded the two together #3
and test fitted on a valve spring top #4
cut the front a way as the original looks like #5 and welded the two together

[2 Fast 4 U]

Here the final welded valve spring compressor #1
Ready to remove the valve lock pieces #2

[2 Fast 4 U]

Removed the remaning 4 valves today, and cleaned one set completely.
I tried to remove the carbon built up with oven cleaner on a valve today, didn't do anything at all, only removed some grease that was still on the valve, so I'll be wire brushing the valves to get them clean, and try to pollish them as well.

Next on the list is to remove the cam shaft and clean the cam and the head.


Question 1:
I put the parts, that I cleaned, in a cleaned old soup can, filled with ATF [Dextron], can I use the ATF or should I use normal engine oil?

Question 2:
And if I can use the ATF do I have to clean the parts and use engine oil when I assemble the engine or just keep the ATF on the parts??

[namba209]

ATF is a good medium to store parts in, but I would clean and re-assemble with engine oil. I'm not sure how the ATF would react to the valve seals. Better to be safe than sorry and lose the valve seals.

[opelnut10]

Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U Removed the remaning 4 valves today, and cleaned one set completely. I tried to remove the carbon built up with oven cleaner on a valve today, didn't do anything at all, only removed some grease that was still on the valve, so I'll be wire brushing the valves to get them clean, and try to pollish them as well. Next on the list is to remove the cam shaft and clean the cam and the head. Question 1: I put the parts, that I cleaned, in a cleaned old soup can, filled with ATF [Dextron], can I use the ATF or should I use normal engine oil? Question 2: And if I can use the ATF do I have to clean the parts and use engine oil when I assemble the engine or just keep the ATF on the parts??

ATF works very well to prevent rust from occuring on the cleaned metal parts. But the Hyd. lifters should be stored and submerged in motor oil to keep them "primed". When you get ready to assemble the engine after cleaning the ATF off , coat the cyl. walls with motor oil, use assembly lube on all rotating surfaces (crank journals, cam lobes and cam journals, lifters, rocker balls and tips, oil pump gears and valve stem tips) There are several commercially assembly lubes available, but I have had the best results with my own formula of 2 parts STP and 2 part Moly grease.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by namba209 ATF is a good medium to store parts in, but I would clean and re-assemble with engine oil. I'm not sure how the ATF would react to the valve seals. Better to be safe than sorry and lose the valve seals.

I did't put the valve seals in with the rest of the material as I'm planning on renewing them, but I'm keeping them for spare they are still very fexible.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by opelnut10 ATF works very well to prevent rust from occuring on the cleaned metal parts. But the Hyd. lifters should be stored and submerged in motor oil to keep them "primed".

I'm going to have to prime the Hyd. lifters because I disassembled them in order to clean them.

Originally Posted by opelnut10 When you get ready to assemble the engine after cleaning the ATF off , coat the cyl. walls with motor oil, use assembly lube on all rotating surfaces (crank journals, cam lobes and cam journals, lifters, rocker balls and tips, oil pump gears and valve stem tips)

Ok noted, thank you

Originally Posted by opelnut10 There are several commercially assembly lubes available, but I have had the best results with my own formula of 2 parts STP and 2 part Moly grease.

Can't get STP out here, what is it some kind of oil, what is Moly grease??