2.2E camshaft

[miroj]

Hello
i bild a 2.2e engine and i can't choose a camshaft for it.Am thinking 1.9e camshaft will be good for perfomance.Is there anybody who use 1.9e camshaft in 2.2e engine
The CR is 9.5:1 and the injection is le jetronic

[GTJIM]

The 2.2E cam and the 1.9E cam are very similar - Opel just advanced or retarded the cam timing between the different size motors.

Just use a new standard Opel cam from any of the sizes and advance/retard the cam timing a few degrees to change between motor sizes.

[miroj]

i think the cams are diferent i have dates of cams and stock 2.2e cam is 285

[GTJIM]

I think just the method of measuring was different as the lift is identical between 20N;20S plus 20E and 2.4E compared to 2.2E camshafts - 10.467mm
The different cam was the earlier mechanical lifter with 9.95mm lift and the later cams were all used with hydraulic lifters.

Fairly sure that Opel used the specs at (1.25mm) .050" lift measurement for the 2.2E only - the rest are measured at about (0.5mm) .020" lift. Which explains the 'different' numbers for duration - 285 degrees cf 302 degrees

Just the whole cam profile was moved: 9 degrees retard for 20N/20S; 7 degrees retard for 20E; 5.5 degrees for 2.2E and only 3 degrees retard for 2.4E As the capacity increased the cam was advanced to favour top end power as the larger capacity increased torque.

[Hiro]

Originally Posted by miroj i think the cams are diferent i have dates of cams and stock 2.2e cam is 285

all this official Opel data is phony,
otherwise this would mean the std CIH camshafts are already good street camshafts!
I have measured the std CIH camshafts to be about 240° duration @ 0.3mm
IMO street camshafts are up to 300° duration @ 0.3mm & race camshafts are above 300° duration @ 0.3mm,
you can see some profiles here:
ACTtiming2
Hiro

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by GTJIM Fairly sure that Opel used the specs at (1.25mm) .050" lift measurement for the 2.2E only - the rest are measured at about (0.5mm) .020" lift. Which explains the 'different' numbers for duration - 285 degrees cf 302 degrees

Opel's stock cams are actually far from that radical! The 'biggest' stock Opel cam I've had cam-doctored was 207° @ .050" duration on the exhaust side, and that was with an advertised 310° duration! Opel uses very 'safe' and gradual opening and closing ramps on their cams for longevity.

Most of the OEM cams are using less than 200° of duration @ .050", so I suspect Opel at one time measured from true opening to true closing on their advertised durations, and perhaps more recently are using the '@ .004" ' or '@ .020" ' numbers for the advertised duration.

Bob

[miroj]

and what cam can i use to go 150 hp with that 2,2 e with CR 9.8
i don't want high rmp i will use the stock injection.I will put inlet manifold from 2.0

[GTJIM]

Not that simple - your use of the stock fuel injection system severely limits the cam duration you can use. Opel's cam specs were so "soft" mainly so they would work with the fuel injection air valve. Too much overlap or duration just causes it to 'flap in the breeze'.

With 2.2L you have 134.2 cubic inches and 150hp means more than 1hp per cubic inch (usually regarded as the point that a motor becomes 'hi-performance').

With the stock fuel injection (and the 2.0 manifold does not bolt to the 2.2 head without some modifications - btw) the range of 125hp to 135hp is about the limit with standard cams but with careful head porting and tuning.

More horsepower requires a 'hotter' cam and carburettors or a hot wire fuel injection system.

IMHO - ofcourse!

[wrench459]

reversion is a pitb
One reason the stock F/I is not up to the task.

[miroj]

this old injection have simple options to tunning it's soo easy
from the moment i can bring so much fuel in high rmp than the stock tunings

[lamchop77]

From what i've seen/read about the std fuel injection system 150/160 bhp is about the limit you can go to. Using the 2.0 injection rather than the 2.2 system should give you a 8 bhp increase without doing anything else. This was done by a guy i used to do oval racing with and he had 2 engines rolling roaded (he owned one!!) and both came out with similar increases. You will need an fse adjustable pressure reg to wind up the injection pressure. To me its a waste of time and effort trying to tune the std fuel injection system either switch to carbs or invest in throttle bodies/ management, after all pefect tuning is what there designed for.

I had a 2.0 motor totally std bottom end, the head had 45mm inlets fitted and some mild porting done (basically just removing the rough edges), a 234 kent cam kit was fitted and a pair of 40 dellorto's. The manifold was std and the exhaust system was 2". This made 160bhp on a rolling road and was a pretty quick motor.

HTH

Chris

[Motor Mouth]

Originally Posted by wrench459 One reason the stock F/I is not up to the task.

Have to agree with you there. When we built the motor in my GT (tweaked 2.4, using a OP244 cam, 46/41valves, headwork and chopped down 3litre inlet plenum, 2.2 injectors and modified bottom end) the Opel management system just couldn't cope.

Each time i tried to fire the GT up, you could hear the air-flow meter flapping about and when it did fire, she ran terribly.

Since then i've switched to an Emerald ECU, which has been mapped and the car starts and runs ok. But unfortunately due the combination of the cam and plenum, injectors that are at their limit i really need to switch to throttle bodies to get the best from the engine. She puts out a respectable 184bhp and 177lb/ft, but i think with a better set up she'll easily break 200bhp.....that said 184bhp and 960kg is entertaining enough

[miroj]

hello
before week ago I bought a 296 grad Mantzel M15H4 camshaft.
Now i have to decide what valve spring to use in the cite of mantzel says that the inlet springs can be use but the exhaust are weak is there any possibility to use some stock from 1.9e or other engine with same springs
they have to be 95 kp here is the cite: http://www.mantzel.de/neu/CIH-4-Zylinder-M15H4
CHEERS from BULGARIA

[IT Manta]

I am using this Enem cam 35-44-000 (280/109/10.9/2.2) on a 9.5:1 '75 EFI and a 2.0l air flow meter with very good results.

They also have a bunch of other goodies: - ENEM

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by miroj hello ... mantzel says that the inlet springs can be use but the exhaust are weak is there any possibility to use some stock from 1.9e or other engine with same springs they have to be 95 kp ...

The trick is to use Intake springs on both Intake and Exhaust - hydraulic cam springs; as they are slightly stronger than solid lifter cam springs.
OR you can use 3.0L/2.4L springs which are very similar to hydraulic lifter 1.9/2.0L Intake springs.

You must remove the rotators under the original exhaust springs and replace them with spacers about 0.300" (7.5mm to 7.7mm) thick so the Intake springs used on the exhaust side have the same installed height as they do on the intake side. You may have to make the spacers and try slightly different thicknesses to get things correct - best to measure first!

Be sure to check that at full lift on EVERY valve that there is still at least .020" (0.5mm) gap between each of the upper coils - the lower ones start out wound closer together and will just about touch with this clearance between the top colis. A .040" (1mm) gap will let the springs last longer ..

Springs that get compressed closer together heat up very quickly due to the over-flexing of the wire they are made of and will loose tension very quickly.

[miroj]

thank you man GTJIM
i thing the same like you but i never do that before that's why i ask for it
i have inlet springs from other head and am going to use them
How HP will goin' from this engine?
2.2E it will be with 10:1 CV
i have tuning pressure regulator for the intake gas it will be 3.5 bar i think
Mantzel M15 with 290° duration 112° valve overlap
LE jetronic(very good injection for tuning tips)
ported and polished cylinder cams and polished intake manifolds
I can't decide but i want to do something for the exhaust manifold because the stock i thing it's too small the tubes after manifold are 53mm

Sorry for my bad English

Cheers from Bulgaria

[GTJIM]

You should use NEW valve springs as the cam you have will make them work harder than a stock cam would - and used ones will already have most of their life used up. Old ones will have lost some tension and be likely to fail (break!) letting the valve(s) drop down, hit the piston ...... say no more!

I assure you that your English is far better than any other language that I can't speak or write - I only know English!