DCOE intake,exhaust & maintenance advice

[pdxopel]

I'm currently trying to get my 71GT running smoothly. Got some of it torn apart right now and need some advice on some parts before putting it back together.

History: I bought the car about 2 years ago in Longview, Wa. It was running fine then. I put it in storage for awhile; about a year. It stayed there while I moved from Atlanta to Portland. Then it sat covered on the street for awhile as well. I drove it every once in awhile around the block. I think the previous owner(s) put an Isky cam in it. Not sure though. It currently has a Weber DCOE40 and a Pace Setter intake. I'm not sure what the exhaust manifold is(Sprint?). I just bought a Compu-Fire kit and plan on putting that on in substitute of a Mallory coil & points on the Bosch. The fuel pump has been replaced with an electric pump by the previous owner(not sure what brand).

The Weber has a Ramflo air filter and air tubing. I think the tubing was custom made. I'm think of getting rid of that part. It seems like it would hinder performance of the carb. If you look at pictures of it (link below), you'll see what I mean. I believe the heater wall in the car was modified/cut at some time. It feels like there is plastic panel and some bondo in there. Even with that mod done it is really tight with the Ramflo. I'm thinking of just mounting it on the carb without the pipes or switching to a regular weber air filter. I might have to do some more cutting. So some advice on that would be nice.

Also, what does everyone think of the Pacesetter intake? Does it flow well? It looks a little rough inside. I was thinking of polishing or smoothing it out in there. Good idea? You can see from the pics that the previous installer had to ground out part of the intake to make the bolt fit. It's still a good bit of work to install/remove bolts (flexbit helps). I have the vibration-proof plastic w/O-ring spacers as well.

I am thinking of getting the new exhaust manifold from OGTS. Has anyone got info on it? They said it is "in production", so I don't know if there is a wait or if anyone has used one yet. I'm not sure what my exhaust is, I guess a Sprint manifold. It's getting pretty rusty and has a weird weld at the bottom(see pic). I think it would be best to replace. Thoughts?...

I posted pics of my distributor as well. If anyone sees anything like abnormal wear or anything else noticeable, please chime in.

So right now, I'm doing the dist., ignition, cleaning carb and replacing parts, replacing lines/hoses, assessing intake and assessing replacement of exhaust.

Let me know your thoughts.

Pics are in a gallery format at 71OpelGT

( if the link doesn't work - 71OpelGT)


Thanks

[BQS4]

First off, why did you move from Atlanta? We have a rather large group of Opelers here and one member is a 30 + year GM master tech and hot rodder at heart. Just kidding, we do have a great group here. Second, you do have a sprint manifold, and I don't know what weld you're talking about, but, one edge is broken off. Look at the corner bolt/screw in your picture. Your heater box looks like it's supposed to, meaning, no one has cut on it, looks stock. As for the intake, if it's like the Pacesetter headers, no wonder there had to be "adjustments" made to get it to fit, you had to do the same to the headers. Gil (OGTS) is having new headers made, and he's getting HEDMAN to make them, so we're talking better quality.

[kwilford]

I know that GT, or at least I saw it at the Tacoma gathering back in 2004. It belonged to Walter and Mary Lawson (aka MawandPawOpel) IIRC, and it had the front "nostrils" closed in and the most interesting bit of piping to the SSD (Single Side Draft) Weber I had ever seen.

I agree with Gene, the heater box has not been modified. I believe that the Pacesetter isn't a particularly good example of a SSD manifold, and with that convoluted piping (as shown here Paw_Opel-2 - Opel Photo Gallery) it just HAD to be a pretty restricted set up. However, unless you find a pretty thin intake filter, you will have to hack the heater box and heater to make it fit. Have a search around to find the SSD photos posted by Otto (aka tekenaar) for his solution to this problem.

And yes, that is a Sprint manifold. Nothing wrong there, so I would just keep using it.

HTH

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by pdxopel I'm currently trying to get my 71GT running smoothly. Got some of it torn apart right now and need some advice on some parts before putting it back together. History: I bought the car about 2 years ago in Longview, Wa. It was running fine then. I put it in storage for awhile; about a year. It stayed there while I moved from Atlanta to Portland. Then it sat covered on the street for awhile as well.

Hmmm - if it was running fine then it is something to do with the time it has sat idle in the damp. Weber carbs (well all carbs!) don't like any water in them while sitting for a length of time - and there is always some little bit of water somewhere!

The water corrodes the carb body - particularly in the small internal passages and around the emulsion tubes. So the carb can do with a good clean out.

Also the fuel tank suffers a similar fate and needs to be well cleaned after standing. Make sure the fuel filters are replaced - pay special attention to the one inside the carb fuel inlet (if there is one there).

The Pacesetter SSD/Weber is not as good as the Steinmetz one ... but is lots better than a standard inlet with a Solex! The PaceStetter lacks a balance between the two sides and the consecutive 'sucks' from cyl 3&4 and 2&1 means that one of each of these pairs runs leaner than the other - so it has to be 'fattened' up which makes the other of the pair a bit rich. Nothing much can be done about that as it is just a function of the basic manifold design.

Since the motor on the street works mostly between 2,500 and 5,000 revs 'restriction' on the inlet side is not a great issue. Also, it is better to leave the internal passages rough to help fuel suspension at the lower flow rates seen during most street driving. For WOT/Drag Racing smooth passages as big as possible may be OK ... but on the street the lower rev ranges work better with the passages as they are.

Distributor - check the end play on the shaft and shim it a bit if there is more than about 0.020" of up and down slop. Check the bushes to make sure that radial play is also snug and not worn too much.

HTH

[pdxopel]

Originally Posted by GTJIM Hmmm - if it was running fine then it is something to do with the time it has sat idle in the damp. Weber carbs (well all carbs!) don't like any water in them while sitting for a length of time - and there is always some little bit of water somewhere! The water corrodes the carb body - particularly in the small internal passages and around the emulsion tubes. So the carb can do with a good clean out.... Also the fuel tank suffers a similar fate and needs to be well cleaned after standing. Make sure the fuel filters are replaced - pay special attention to the one inside the carb fuel inlet (if there is one there).... Distributor - check the end play on the shaft and shim it a bit if there is more than about 0.020" of up and down slop. Check the bushes to make sure that radial play is also snug and not worn too much.... HTH

What is the best process to measure the slop on the dist? Use a caliper or feeler gauges? It does have a little play. How to measure it and what kind of shim or gasket(and where to put it) is something I need to know.

Is OGTS or anyone else making a SSD or DSD intake. Anyone still actively modding the Canons on here?


The car was in a covered/sealed 10x15 for most of the time. So not outside. I do probably need to flush the fuel system. The filter on the carb looks fine. It also has an inline. I think I need a better electric fuel pump. Any suggestions on that would be nice as well.

[pdxopel]

Originally Posted by kwilford I know that GT, or at least I saw it at the Tacoma gathering back in 2004. It belonged to Walter and Mary Lawson (aka MawandPawOpel) IIRC, and it had the front "nostrils" closed in and the most interesting bit of piping to the SSD (Single Side Draft) Weber I had ever seen. HTH

I bought it from Keenan in Longview. That's all I know. Also, when I say it ran fine, I mean I hit the accelerator and it moved. It seemed like it drove OK, but I had a lot going on at the time and didn't go in depth. The timing has gone bad off on it. Which brought me around to getting the Compufire. It's sitting TDC on 1 right now. I decided to go ahead and do more and make sure everything running smooth. I need it for a daily driver. My normal DD(Jeep Cherokee) may eat it soon and I need a backup.

[pdxopel]

Originally Posted by BQS4 First off, why did you move from Atlanta? ...and I don't know what weld you're talking about, but, one edge is broken off. Look at the corner bolt/screw in your picture.... ....he's getting HEDMAN to make them, so we're talking better quality.

Left ATL for various reasons. Never wanted to be there to begin with. The city went to crap during/after the Olympics. It was all downhill after 95. Got tired of the constant battle between city blacks and suburb whites. The corrupt utilities and businesses subsidized by gov. The constant sprawl and traffic. The pollution to waterways. HUMIDITY. BIG ASS COCKROACHES. Dazy-cut subdivisions installations. The fall out from the Ray Lewis shootings. The constant assault on liquor laws. Freaknick. Krunk-tards. Religious zealots. On and on... (sorry, but I'm glad to be out. Everyone I knew left before I did. I had many a bad times there.)

That broken edge actually has a bead on it on the edge, It may be hard to see not zoomed in. I'm willing to bet that whole area there leaks like a sieve.


Who his HEDMAN? I hope it's nice. It looks well made in the catalog.

[baz]

is this the same gas in it as when you stored it 2 years ago?

if so drain it and bin it , modern gas is a petro chemical cocktail that does not last long compared to old style gas that was much more robust ,

clean fresh gas should help clear up a lot of the problems hopefully

[tomking]

Originally Posted by pdxopel what is the best process to measure the slop on the dist? Use a caliper or feeler gauges? It does have a little play. How to measure it and what kind of shim or gasket(and where to put it) is something i need to know. Is ogts or anyone else making a ssd or dsd intake. Anyone still actively modding the canons on here? The car was in a covered/sealed 10x15 for most of the time. So not outside. I do probably need to flush the fuel system. The filter on the carb looks fine. It also has an inline. I think i need a better electric fuel pump. Any suggestions on that would be nice as well.

feeler gauges are the easiest.

[newman27]

Originally Posted by pdxopel Left ATL for various reasons. Never wanted to be there to begin with. The city went to crap during/after the Olympics. It was all downhill after 95. Got tired of the constant battle between city blacks and suburb whites. The corrupt utilities and businesses subsidized by gov. The constant sprawl and traffic. The pollution to waterways. HUMIDITY. BIG ASS COCKROACHES. Dazy-cut subdivisions installations. The fall out from the Ray Lewis shootings. The constant assault on liquor laws. Freaknick. Krunk-tards. Religious zealots. On and on... (sorry, but I'm glad to be out. Everyone I knew left before I did. I had many a bad times there.) That broken edge actually has a bead on it on the edge, It may be hard to see not zoomed in. I'm willing to bet that whole area there leaks like a sieve. Who his HEDMAN? I hope it's nice. It looks well made in the catalog.

Hey now, we got rid of Freaknik OK...and the roaches leave you alone as long as you don't feed them...

[markandson]

I noticed in your pictures that there is a wing nut on the hood release cable. The original setup uses double nuts that lock against each other and the bottom one has a rounded surface to fit into the hollow spot in the release lever. One way or the other I would replace what is there with something that can not vibrate off, getting the hood open if that wing nut falls off is not too much fun.

[markandson]

Originally Posted by pdxopel I need a better electric fuel pump. Any suggestions on that would be nice as well.

Carter makes a good universal pump available in both 8psi and 6psi max output pressure. Summit Racing has them the top two on this page are the ones I am referring to.

[Phoenix]

INSUGNINGSRR till trimfrgasare Weber, Dellorto, Solex frn MISAB

Here is one other option for the SSD intake. I have seen something like 2 other different designs. They come up on ebay every once and a while.

[ggl]

Originally Posted by Phoenix INSUGNINGSRR till trimfrgasare Weber, Dellorto, Solex frn MISAB Here is one other option for the SSD intake.

That's the one a friend of mine ran on his Ascona A 1900SR, 40 Solex from a VW K70 junker, 2.0 head that he ported himself, skimmed it, used an old Piper camshaft I had lying around and a 2" exhaust, ended up with a reliable 120-25hp for next-to-nothing money. Plug readings looked good for fuel distribution but we didn't have too much experience

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by kwilford I know that GT, or at least I saw it at the Tacoma gathering back in 2004. It belonged to Walter and Mary Lawson (aka MawandPawOpel) IIRC, and it had the front "nostrils" closed in and the most interesting bit of piping to the SSD (Single Side Draft) Weber I had ever seen. I agree with Gene, the heater box has not been modified. I believe that the Pacesetter isn't a particularly good example of a SSD manifold, and with that convoluted piping (as shown here Paw_Opel-2 - Opel Photo Gallery) it just HAD to be a pretty restricted set up. However, unless you find a pretty thin intake filter, you will have to hack the heater box and heater to make it fit. Have a search around to find the SSD photos posted by Otto (aka tekenaar) for his solution to this problem. And yes, that is a Sprint manifold. Nothing wrong there, so I would just keep using it. HTH

. . . yeah, and that metal fuel filter in that pic right next to the 'sprint' exhaust manifold doesn't particularly help the already restricted air intake either, IMO! The problem with an SSD in a GT without any heater box mods is the extremely limited mounting area next to the slanted edge. You're very limited feeding intake air to the rear barrel of the SSD carb, even using the narrowest SSD intake!

Just search 'ssd gt' here and you'll find my posts with pics of my solutions to this problem . . . without heater box mods, though I'm using a Steinmetz intake, one of the narrowest available. Spent considerable time designing my 'cold air intake' for it too . . . am an admitted 'cold air intake' proponent!

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by markandson Carter makes a good universal pump available in both 8psi and 6psi max output pressure. Summit Racing has them the top two on this page are the ones I am referring to.

. . . uh, Solex, Weber and Dell'Orto carbs actually prefer ~3.5 PSI MAX! typically, but love volume (flow)! Search 'carter e-pump' here and you'll find recommendations on the right 'carb' e-pump, too.

[pdxopel]

Originally Posted by Phoenix INSUGNINGSRR till trimfrgasare Weber, Dellorto, Solex frn MISAB Here is one other option for the SSD intake. I have seen something like 2 other different designs. They come up on ebay every once and a while.

What about the brake booster vacuum? I don't see a port on a few. The pic is kinda crappy, so hard to tell.

Will the ones for the Weber 45 work with the 40? Are all the bolt patterns under the Opel section intakes the same as well as port alignment? Is that currency Krona?

Anyone on here actually running one of these right now? Good success?

[pdxopel]

Originally Posted by markandson I noticed in your pictures that there is a wing nut on the hood release cable. The original setup uses double nuts that lock against each other and the bottom one has a rounded surface to fit into the hollow spot in the release lever. One way or the other I would replace what is there with something that can not vibrate off, getting the hood open if that wing nut falls off is not too much fun.

Thanks, I'll take a look and fix it.

[ggl]

Originally Posted by pdxopel What about the brake booster vacuum? I don't see a port on a few. The pic is kinda crappy, so hard to tell.

The one my friend used had a connector for brake booster, as did the DSD MISAB setup I used, I just chose not to use it

Originally Posted by pdxopel Will the ones for the Weber 45 work with the 40?

45's and 40's have the same bolt pattern unless I'm mistaken

Originally Posted by pdxopel Are all the bolt patterns under the Opel section intakes the same as well as port alignment?

5-5326 and 5-5330 are for the old CIH engine, does not work with the raised ports in the 2.2 and 2.4 heads though

Originally Posted by pdxopel Is that currency Krona?

Yup, exchange rate is about 8:1 these days

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by ggl The one my friend used had a connector for brake booster, as did the DSD MISAB setup I used, I just chose not to use it 45's and 40's have the same bolt pattern, unless I'm mistaken 5-5326 and 5-5330 are for the old CIH engine, does not work with the raised ports in the 2.2 and 2.4 heads though Yup, exchange rate is about 8:1 these days

. . . correct, all 38-55mm Weber DCOx, Dell'Orto DHLA, Solex DDH and Asian "knock-off" SD carbs use the same manifold flange mounting template/bolt pattern . . . the only difference is in the size of the carb's throttle bores, which must be matched to the specific manifold used, of course . . . i.e. don't use a 45mm carb on a 40mm manifold, reverse is OK though.

[GTJIM]

The MISAB 5-5326 SSD looks pretty good with the cylinder pairs nicely separated with each carb throat feeding just two cylinders. Often thought to be the best compromise for in-line 4-cylinder motors.

Also looks to be just a close to the head as the Steinmetz - so may be a good fit for air inlet.

Well worth the 2,200 Kr - about $US271 .... today ....

Can't put up a pic as they have copy-righted them!

[pdxopel]

I was actually thinking of going with their DSD intakes and picking up another 40 off ebay. Not that much more money. Although I will have to deal with throttle linkage. I don't think the adapter costs that much though.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . uh, Solex, Weber and Dell'Orto carbs actually prefer ~3.5 PSI MAX! typically, but love volume (flow)! Search 'carter e-pump' here and you'll find recommendations on the right 'carb' e-pump, too.

FWIW, I've used that listed '6 PSI' Carter pump on many Opels with Weber carbs, going back about 17 years now. They are rated at 5-6 psi actually, and while this may be the case directly at the outlet of the pump, measuring the pressure at the carburetor has typically shown 3.5-4 psi thanks to the length of the fuel line and the resultant pressure drop.

Bob

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by pdxopel I was actually thinking of going with their DSD intakes and picking up another 40 off ebay. Not that much more money. Although I will have to deal with throttle linkage. I don't think the adapter costs that much though.

Something to keep in mind is that the Misab DSD intakes...although nicely made and good flowing, are rather long. So you'll probably have to cut your heater box to let them fit in a GT, at least with air filters.

[GTJIM]

Got a picture of this intake - from another source:

Note how cyls 1&4 draw from one carb choke and 2&3 from the other which separates the intake pulses so that alternate cylinders in the firing order draw from one side of the carb then the other. This should make it a very good street manifold.