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#1 (permalink) |
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thescifiguy
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Collingswood, NJ
Posts: 149
Real Name: Gordon Payton
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Unanswered: 2.4L with carb and auto. Doable?
Do I need a 2.4 specific auto flywheel? Can I just block off the extra coolant outlet(It comes off the thermo housing, right?) or put a therm housing from a 1.9 on instead? Will a 1.9's intake work with only minor alterations? How about dual side draft manifolds? I'll have to install an electric fuel pump, a better radiator, and change the oil pan. I won't be racing or beating up the engine much. What other problems will I encounter? What mods will I have to do?
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Last edited by thescifiguy; 2 Weeks Ago at 01:20 PM. Reason: diction |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Detroit,where my home was
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maria - Hoop, The Netherlands
Posts: 2,217
Real Name: Erick
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The automatic will bolt right on.
An auto flywheel, I think, is the same for all CIH engines. The extra coolant outlet is in the same spot as the blocked one on other engines, so I don't think that there will be a problem using the 1.9 housing. You can use the oil pan from a 1.9 on the 2.4. And about the rest you'll have to ask someone else
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Opel Ascona; driving one is like living on the edge. Only built from 1970 - 1975 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Non Civilian
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Between Chico and Sac, CA
Posts: 1,596
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Being the owner of a 2.4L I'll go ahead and take a stab.
You will need a 38 DGAS at a minimum for the carb. You will need to fabricate adapters for any carb setup to work. Not easy but do-able. The stock exhaust manifold must be replaced with a larger one and does not bolt to the intake. The flex-plate and converter should work just fine. I say definitely do it, it is so worth the ride.
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Arguing online is the same as racing in the Special Olympics; no matter who wins, you're both still retarded. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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thescifiguy
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Collingswood, NJ
Posts: 149
Real Name: Gordon Payton
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I might go FI
Considering the trouble I'll have with getting a carb to work, maybe I should just bite the bullet and go for the FI system. It sounds like it's going to be just about as much trouble either way. The seller has an "altered 3.0L manifold" to go with it. If I go with the full 2.4L with FI and 3.0L exhaust manifold will I have to eliminate the heater box and run return lines to the fuel tank? Assuming that that's true would the necessary basic mods to put a 2.4L in a GT be:
Electric fuel pump Fuel return to the tank Heater box removal New or bigger better radiator Rear sump oil pan Anything else?
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#5 (permalink) |
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Non Civilian
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Between Chico and Sac, CA
Posts: 1,596
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You don't need to remove the heater.
I am using a rebuilt(not rodded and cleaned) radiator with a 16" electric fan in a pusher configuration. And I do fine in the California heat (110 deg). If you do get it rebuilt get more rows than stock.
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Arguing online is the same as racing in the Special Olympics; no matter who wins, you're both still retarded. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Sick with Opelitus
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Janesville wisconsin
Posts: 195
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I,ve got a mod sheet from OGTS to make a 1.9 intake fit a 2.4. I can fax you if you would like it, also I talked to bigjim5551212 he told me that a 32/36 is plenty carb for a 2.4 for street use. I.ve got a 2.4 that will be going in my GT after I get every thing else done so I have been doing some research on this
Pat |
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#7 (permalink) |
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thescifiguy
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Collingswood, NJ
Posts: 149
Real Name: Gordon Payton
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Carb intake made for 2.2/2.4
The seller tells me that carb intakes made for the 2.2/2.4 are available.
He says that they're expensive in this country, but he'll try to find me one while he's overseas. Anybody got one?
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Project 1450 supporter...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pleasant Valley, CT
Posts: 7,453
Real Name: Bob Legere
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And if you decide to go with EFI, you need to plumb a new pressure line and a return line. The stock Opel plastic fuel lines (and flexible hoses) were designed for 3.5-4 psi of fuel pressure. EFI will typically run at 35-45 psi and will rupture the OEM lines .
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My Flickr photos. Jan. 3, 1984 - Jan. 3, 2009, that's 25 years of this damn Opelitis! C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04 |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Detroit,where my home was
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Maria - Hoop, The Netherlands
Posts: 2,217
Real Name: Erick
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Opel Ascona; driving one is like living on the edge. Only built from 1970 - 1975 |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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thescifiguy
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Collingswood, NJ
Posts: 149
Real Name: Gordon Payton
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A few things to clear up
If I go FI, do I need to eliminate the heater box to provide clearance? I'm gonna go the carb route for now, 'cuz that's my comfort zone, and get the rest of the FI stuff from the guy in about six months for installation at a later date. But I need to know NOW if the heater box area has to go because the car is gonna get painted soon
. If I lose the heater, I can just block off the two inlet/outlets or just connect one to the other?
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Last edited by kwilford; 2 Weeks Ago at 11:43 PM. |
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