Porting intake - Page 4

soybean · #76 (**permalink**) 03-23-2004

I had this question asked of me and I honestly did not know how to answer it. It is a good question.

"Don't you have a problem by opening up the mounting surface this much. (Top of manifold where carb bolts on) Why would you open the mounting surface larger than the gasket or the carb's barrel's??"

Part of my answer was in order to get an aluminum "Wedge" inserted, or as Buckys is doing, to get the JB Weld insert in and tools to blend it.

Is there, and I'm sure there is, a better answer than what I gave? Thanks, Jarrell

opeldean · #77 (**permalink**) 03-25-2004

do you think this will keep the heat off my JB Weld? I cant imagine there being a problem now...the only problem is not being able to drive celeste...

your insights got me worried on the JB.so here you go.

the dry fit looks good..gonna have to wait till another night.

opels rule ..especially in the spring.

the sprint has no stove pipe...this should benefit the jb in the bottom of my plenum.

Gary · #78 (**permalink**) 03-25-2004

The 3.0 6 cyl CIH (basically a 2.0 with 2 cylinders added) in my '84 Senator had a history of running hot. A lot of that problem (and the "diesel" sound) was traced to a blocked cat and exhaust. As I was troubleshooting that problem, Nick Webb turned me on to a heatshield that Opel makes for the 6 cyl. It goes between the sprint style manifold and the F.I. plenum. Installing the heatshield made a huge difference in the underhood and plenum temps as that barrier blocked the heat convection from the exhaust.

I believe Otto also put one in his Bitter with good results.

soybean · #79 (**permalink**) 03-25-2004

A few questions. Bucky, I couldn't really see the bottom two photos clearly, but did you put the asbestos on using JB Weld and then cut the tin and use the 4 bolts to help hold the tin /asbestos on? What gauge tin did you use?
Gary, the heat shield you were speaking about, how is it held in place? the same 4 bolts? and could it be made out of Stainless Steel, or would that retain heat instead of dissipating it. Thanks, Jarrell

opeldean · #80 (**permalink**) 03-25-2004

no jb weld in plenum shield..black color is engine paint...

i havent got it on and driven so "we will see".

my major structure was sheet Aluminum..it broke as i bent it up to go between the intake runners..so thats when a bolted on the flap using tin ...the flap is bendable ..so this should give me latitude in how to best angle it.... the is one spot on the exhaust that almost kisses the plenum..in fact the plenum has to be ground a bit to clear the sprint...at this point is a hot spot..but tight clearance...i will layer more SA(synthetic asbestos) in this area once i get it installed..SA is bolted on to the aluminum with square washers made of tin..

design could be improved for a more professional look...i am in a hurry...good weather is here.i want to drive!

ps:on prior Q. top of intake has hardly been opened for me....once you start smoothing out all the SQUARE Corners inside the plenum...it really makes sense...the chambers openes up
quickly..and you get a sense of how airflow is improved....much
less turbelence! my 2 cents

ps: my car was deiseling prior to this..maybe this was a factor

opeldean · #81 (**permalink**) 03-25-2004

kisses here

tekenaar · #82 (**permalink**) 03-25-2004

Originally posted by Gary
The 3.0 6 cyl CIH (basically a 2.0 with 2 cylinders added) . . . heatshield that Opel makes for the 6 cyl. It goes between the sprint style manifold and the F.I. plenum. Installing the heatshield made a huge difference in the underhood and plenum temps as that barrier blocked the heat convection from the exhaust.

I believe Otto also put one in his Bitter with good results.

Heat shielding is ALWAYS recommended, but especially for any non-crossflow head inline engine! Makes a huge difference in heat directly radiated from exhaust to intake manifolds, as stated.

houserc · #83 (**permalink**) 03-25-2004

Otto,

Where did you get or how did you make your heat shield? I've got FI also, along with headers.

Thanks

opeldean · #84 (**permalink**) 03-26-2004

FWIW:
the MG rebuilder said: "you need to spend a couple hours and polish out the gouges" i said:how do i do that? "with your fingers and sand paper..."..he said: think of the intake as a creek and the gas as water..ever seen a rough edge in water..if a stick was placed in the creek ..how would it affect flow?"

i sanded till my fingers hurt..i am done for now

PS: I also bent a rally bob wrench in a torch..much better than the crows foot wrench..first time for me...borrowed a torch in the maintaince Dept at work.

namba209 · #85 (**permalink**) 03-26-2004

Bucky, Now you have an idea how my wheels are being polished. I start with 320, then 400, then 600, all wet. Then use 600 dry until I can see myself in the wheel with no haze. It takes about 1-2 months per wheel, depending on how bad they are corroded. I've used the same method on the hardware for my model racing boats and the ports of my racing motorcycles. Depending on how severe the sand casting is on the ports, you can effectively increase the port size by 30% just by eliminating the boundary layer affect.

Ron

tekenaar · #86 (**permalink**) 03-27-2004

Originally posted by houserc
Otto,

Where did you get or how did you make your heat shield? I've got FI also, along with headers.

Thanks

These used to be available for 4 and 6 cylinder CIH FI engines from the factory. The 4-cylinder heat shield were much more expensive (very low usage) than the 6-cylinder units.

They have "U" shaped bracket(s) that mount to the inner phenolic injector mount bolts (see pic) and then to the heatshield with metal screws. No reason something similar can't be fabbed from sheet metal.

opeldean · #87 (**permalink**) 04-02-2004

the problem is "i used JB stick weld on the external surfaces"

its melting point is 250 not the 600 of reg jb weld...therefore..i felt it best to start over. to combat the problem of running of reg jb weld..i confined it eith caly and tape...i shoved 4 bolts in the corner to fil dead spaces.

the installation of my "buckometer" in folowing photo reveals that i am really sick..for your viewing pleasure..

PS: everything i have done on my opel..i have redone at least once.

opeldean · #88 (**permalink**) 04-02-2004

dam the material..it wants to run

opeldean · #89 (**permalink**) 04-02-2004

modern science will reveal how hot my intake will get..

opeldean · #90 (**permalink**) 04-02-2004

my plan is to have my buckometer sit between my intake and plenum shield do i cna monitor my experiment.

PS: my carb is back together...i finished the filming of the reassembly today..in 2-3 weeks i hope to share it with everyone.

i hope to test drive my car for the first time in 2 days

photo of my buckomter ..dont fall out of your chair and hurt yourself..when you laugh.

opeldean · #91 (**permalink**) 04-03-2004

more heat resistant runners were added and cast in jb original
formula...

i am thinking about this?

plenum shield only,phenolic spacer, and NO carb shield?

would the presence of a carb shield AND a plenum shield only
trap heat?

maybe the answer is test it both ways with my buckometer.

opeldean · #92 (**permalink**) 04-03-2004

hottest the buckometer has been is about 200 degrees f.

this was a test.i drove up the street and idled for a half hour.

with engine running it was at 150..turn off ..it went to 200...

so far ..i have a 300- 400 degree cushion.

i am going to midas this pm for a muffler pipe weld...

(my wife will follow me as insurance)... as far as my carb rebuild...fast to start..no boiling gas...I used tekanar jetting so far..as my start point.

opeldean · #93 (**permalink**) 04-04-2004

the final phase of the end was "tekenaar jets"..i used ottos recommended fuel,air,and one idle jet(i was missing the recommended idle jet for the solenoid shutoff)..so i used 5 of the 6...car rocks..see my video caled "tekenaar jets" in members album....

it still need some tweeking to make it perfect...BUT..I have never had an opel run like this...(e.g...my idle speed is turned all the way in)

oh the sounds is just half of it...quick to start...at 2,800 rpm..shove your foot to the floor and watch it sweep the tach.

my 75 manta , my brothers 73 manta , my college buddy's 70 gt..never ran like this...the secondary really kicks...it is a much richer mix in the secondary(smaller air corrector) than what the car came with.

a mg mechanic rebuilt the carb..i bolted it in and off i went...during the rebuild.."he felt the emulsion tubes are an area that should be investigated..he wants to try to set it up the emulsion tubes like a mgb...he feels it should be similiar."

i will get back to his shop and have him tweek it...i will advise you.

i dont know when..this is too much fun

jordan · #94 (**permalink**) 09-05-2004

did the jb weld work, or did it break down?

opeldean · #95 (**permalink**) 09-05-2004

i have driven the car about 6,000 miles, i stll have the thermometer there.it never reads much over 200 degrees f. even when sittting after a long drive.

but rememeber, i am using a sprint manifold with a homemade heatshield in between the manifold and the carb base.

original jb weld melts at 600 degrees f...there is no way it will get hot enough to melt this... as a test,I glued my thermometer to the carb side of the heat shield with jb weld,even this is holding.

as they say, let the buyer beware