|
12-07-2004
|
||||
|
||||
|
would the torquer/hot-steet combo porting job free up some hp and torque and hp on a high compression engine? or is it just better suited for the low compression engine and I should stick with the torquer? If so How much of a HP and torque increase can I expect?
__________________
1970 Opel GT 1.9 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo |
|
12-13-2004
|
||||
|
||||
|
would this work better, or smoother for the porting instead of the the single cut type bur http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...=1&keyword=bur has anyone tried it?
also are the pictures on the hemmings opel page of one of bob's ported intakes the "torquer" type?
__________________
1970 Opel GT 1.9 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo |
|
12-13-2004
|
|||
|
|||
-Travis |
|
12-13-2004
|
||||
|
||||
|
Tools for Porting
I am new to this game, I've never ported an intake before. I bought a single cut 6" long burr from Mcmaster Carr. The problem was that the cutting surface was only about 1" long, and when you get the chips flying the length of the cut you need is more like 2" in order to avoid and uneven surface. My solution as dumb as it sounds was to use a rotozip cutter in my dremel tool. It worked great and allowed me to reach deep into the manifold. I am not quite done yet and I plan to add a piece of aluminum angle standing like a Tee Pee on the bottom of the intake to direct the flow into the runners.
|
|
12-14-2004
|
||||
|
||||
|
I followed the instructions and information RallyeBob had posted and didn't have any problems, other than breakthrough. One thing that I did encounter with the carbide grinder was it would cake up with aluminum, ( I used an air grinder ). I kept an old coffee can with a little bit of kerosene handy and would dip the bit in it periodically and clean it. I didn't add the "wedge" as Bucky and a couple of others have done, but still found porting to be a big help from the 2500 RPM range on. I think that the post made by oldopelguy, ( post 69 ) might be a way to accomplish the "wedge" technique with a minimal amount of welding. ftls idea, ( post 26) is good also. Gene Smith and I have discussed the idea of a drop in "wedge", that would bolt in underneath, at length over the past year. I have an idea that may work and am planning to try it after the first of the year for the next manifold for the next engine. Keep us posted on your results. Jarrell
|
|
12-14-2004
|
||||
|
||||
|
My porting job made a great deal of difference on the 32/36 I used to run. I would think that given the bonus porting provides on a low comp engine, the benefit would be even greater on a high comp engine, especially if porting reduces the occurence of detonation via increased air intake to the combustion chamber.
I'm thinking of having my boat building buddy make one, or more of these from scrap billet aluminum. It could be welded securely to the bottom of the plenum bottom, and the plenum bottom reattached to the manifold. Does anyone know the measurements for a correct fitament?
__________________
Is fhearr deagh chainnt na h-asail na droch fhacal faidh.-The good speech of an ass is better than the bad word of a prophet. |
|
12-14-2004
|
||||
|
||||
Bob |
|
12-14-2004
|
||||
|
||||
"Wide" burrs for "soft" metals
__________________
 1960: ♥ '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 ♥ '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18 1970: ♥ '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P ♥ '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 ♥ '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44 1980: ♥ '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P |
|
12-25-2004
|
||||
|
||||
|
do these look like the right burs? they are single cut and have 6" shanks, would that be easier to work with than the 4"
__________________
1970 Opel GT 1.9 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo |
|
01-21-2005
|
||||
|
||||
|
I've got the manifold back from the welder, I think it looks great I've seen some other work of his and he said it's not his best but over all he is a great welder. Now I have some questions, when it was welded it was bolted to a machined surface where it would meet the head and I believe it warped a little. It's warped to the point that when it is resting on a machined surface a little bit of day light can be seen in a dark room with a light shining behind it, Im sure I can NOT get a .005" feeler guage under it. Also on the top where it is recessed for the exhaust/intake manifold bolts would there be a problem with welding up to that point and then machining the surface where the carburator bolts on? I would just like to not have to worry about it sealing and I see when the porting is finished. I saw there are some areas that just look like 1/4 inch of surface. btw I am doing the hot street/torquer manifold. The center divider will be welded in when the porting is done.
__________________
1970 Opel GT 1.9 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo Last edited by jordan; 01-21-2005 at 07:28 PM. |
|
01-22-2005
|
||||
|
||||
|
I was talking with one of our club members who has done the same thing as you're trying, and he had it milled after it was welded. Also milled the intake where the carb bolts up, 3/16s after it was all done. Keep us posted, as this item is what is on my "to do" list. Jarrell
|
|
01-22-2005
|
|||
|
|||
|
I’m probably the club member that Soybean was referring to so I’ll jump in here and clarify something. When I did my intake manifold I drilled out the four intake to exhaust manifold bolt holes to 5/16-inch and inserted a piece of 5/16-inch aluminum rod into each hole. I bolted the intake to a spare head and made up a 1/2 inch steel plate to bolt to the carb mounting surface to act as heat sinks during welding. After everything was bolted up I welded the top of the rods in place and ran a few beads along the sides where the runners meet the riser portion. I went slowly with the welding as not to warp anything. After all the welding was done I milled off the bottom of the intake and milled a wedge out of a piece of billet aluminum just like ftl did in post #26 of this thread.
His pic here: http://www.opelgt.com/forums/attachm...tachmentid=689 After I milled the bottom off I ported the intake per RallyBob’s directions, having the bottom open made the porting easier. After all the porting was done I re-bolted the intake to the head and carb plate I made and welded in the wedge/bottom plate and the bottom of the rods I had inserted in the holes, again going slow to minimize warping. After everything was done I checked and nothing was warped but I did mill 3/16-inch off the carb mounting surface just to be sure and also provide clearance for the ½-inch heat insulator I put under the carb. I did not mill the head mounting surface of the intake because I could not figure out a way to resurface the intake and exhaust manifolds together inorder to maintain the width of the mounting surfaces. I did have to reshape the OEM steel heat shield a little due to the welds along the sides of the riser portion of the intake manifold. I had free run of a machine shop when I did this so time and labour cost were not a factor. Brian |
|
01-22-2005
|
||||
|
||||
|
I basically finished porting, I ended up with about a full soda can of filings (they are sharp no matter how you look at them) I opened up all of the intake/exhaust manifold bolt holes through the sides and they will be welded solid. I ported through the welded area in one spot so that will get touched up. when ever welding is done it is bolted to a jig to prevent warping becuase I really don't want the runners to get warped, the area where the carb mounts to will need to get machined already becuase it did warp. Also, how high should the center divider be? and when it is finished will the carburator (32/36) need to be rejetted or what kind of adjustments will be needed?
__________________
1970 Opel GT 1.9 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo |
|
01-23-2005
|
||||
|
||||
|
I have had no luck finding out what these little threaded areas in the intake manifold are for, the gt is under a cover with snow on it so I wasn't able to get the hood up to investigate. what are they for, 1 (which is missing) 2 and 3?
__________________
1970 Opel GT 1.9 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo |
|
01-23-2005
|
||||
|
||||
|
Jordan;
2&3 are the mounting points for part of the accellerator if the manifold was used in a Manta/Ascona
__________________
"Yes I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon" |
|
01-23-2005
|
||||
|
||||
Bob |
|
01-23-2005
|
||||
|
||||
You'll probably need to richen the main jets one size (maybe two if you did a lot of porting), and re-adjust the idle air/fuel screw. The idle jet size should be okay. Bob Last edited by RallyBob; 01-23-2005 at 04:45 PM. Reason: spelling error |
|
01-23-2005
|
||||
|
||||
|
so since it will be used on a gt would I be able to cut all 3 of the little threaded areas off? I don't think I will because it may end up on my manta someday, Im just wondering.
__________________
1970 Opel GT 1.9 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo |
|
02-01-2005
|
||||
|
||||
|
Here's where im at now, 3 trips to the welder to fix spots that I ported through. I have not opened up the top yet or milled the top of the manifold flat where the carb mounts. Im going to try to avoid milling the ends of the runners where it meets the head but it did pick up a slight warp, any Idea of how far off it can be before it creates a vacuum leak? I put some 260 grit sand paper on a machined surface and put some pencil marks on the flange at the end of the runners and moved the manifold back and forth and there were definatly some high spot and low spots. I'm sure if I took .002" off it will be perfectly flat, but would I still have to mill the headers to match the thickness for just .002"? also are there any other areas in the plenum that I should concentrate on when im porting it?
__________________
1970 Opel GT 1.9 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo |
|
02-01-2005
|
||||
|
||||
Bob |
