CIH Turbo EFI by RallyBob

[RallyBob]

Motivated by the recent upswing of Carlisle-induced activity, I have officially dusted off the turbo Manta project.

I first worked on the fuel tank, which I have admittedly been avoiding for all this time. You see, I had welded the access-hole mounting ring into the tank a long time ago, but forgot to drill the mounting ring bolt pattern in the cover plate, as well as forgetting to make a sealer gasket for the cover plate. But once the ring was welded in place, I would have to reverse engineer it, which is notoriously a PITA.

Well, I was feeling brave the other day so I attacked this project and had the cover and gasket completed in an hour's time! So much for my fears of it taking forever to do....sometimes perceived hardship is worse than the hardship itself.

[RallyBob]

The other project I was avoiding was the welding of the valve cover breather holes (strictly for aesthetics). Old cast aluminum that has been exposed to oil is typically very difficult to weld, since the oil soaks into the 'pores' of the metal and comes out into the weld under heat. The oil of course contaminates the weld, creating pockets and pits in the metal. So I avoided this project like the plague for this very reason.

So I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned the metal, then acid etched it. Of course, there's still the fact the filler patch is only .060" thick but the base metal is appreciably thicker. And so far I have little experience welding dissimilar thickness aluminum. But hey, you don't learn without practicing, right?

It came out pretty good overall, and I think the valve cover will look awesome powdercoated red after having been smoothed out.

[RallyBob]

Another small issue was the engine block. The hole for the dipstick was cracked at the outer edge. I decided that this not only would potentially let the dipstick fall out, but it might also allow dirt and debris into the engine. I made a small filler piece from a piece of steel tubing, and heliarced it into place with a special high-nickel filler rod designed to allow steel to be welded to cast iron.

With this done, the last part to be fabricated is the baffled oil pan with turbo oil drain tube. Then the shortblock can be assembled and painted.

[RallyBob]

Yesterday I templated the oil pan baffles and whatnot, and today I fitted and welded all the parts in place with the exception of the top cover plate (will be bolted in place) and the crank scraper.

Here you can see the progression, I started with the 5 trap doors around the oil pickup, then added a forward baffle to prevent oil slosh under braking, and two more baffles on the sides to keep oil from climbing up the sides of the pan under hard cornering. Another baffle was then added that partially covers the top of the trap doors to add more more oil control under braking (where g-forces are highest).

[RallyBob]

Some more pics of the details, such as the oil drain tube for the turbocharger, the oil drain tube for the breather system, the fitting for the oil temp gauge, and the 1/8" thick aluminum top cover plate (baffle) which will be bolted in place. I still need to drill some drainback holes in the top cover for oil return, and a hole for the dipstick.

A test fit of the pan on a block showed everything fits so far with no interference issues.

[N61WP]

Beautiful work, as always, Bob.
Were you able to add any oil capacity?
Jc

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by N61WP Were you able to add any oil capacity?

I didn't add any. There will be roughly 5.5 quarts in the system with the oil cooler, remote filter, thermostat and all the lines.

[RallyBob]

I had a very unmotivated weekend, so I just finished up the mounting of the oil pan top baffle (studs and nylock nuts), drilled the drainage holes in the plate, and fitted a dipstick tube in the block while drilling the appropriate holes for the dipstick to pass thru.

The dipstick tube was a slight hassle, as the tube was missing from this block upon disassembly, and I no longer have any new ones in my parts stash. I found a piece of thinwall tubing that was just under 9/16" OD. I used a torch to heat the tube and bent it around a jig I welded to a workbench to minimize crushing the tube. The tube was a bit too small for the existing hole in the block, so I drilled from the underside of the block about 3/8" deep and 9/16" diameter. Problem was, the tube was now a loose fit in the block, so I ended up making a thin flange, welding it to the new tube, and drilled and tapped the block to accept a hold-down bolt to secure the new tube. A typical example of a 10 minute job taking 2 hours.....

All that remains is the crank scraper, which will require assembly of the crank, pistons and rods to custom fit it to the pan.

[soybean]

Originally Posted by RallyBob I didn't add any. There will be roughly 5.5 quarts in the system with the oil cooler, remote filter, thermostat and all the lines.

RallyBob, What type of oil cooler, remote filter, thermostat are you using? Thanks, Jarrell

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by soybean RallyBob, What type of oil cooler, remote filter, thermostat are you using? Thanks, Jarrell

I have a 4.75" tall Setrab cooler, -10AN fittings and hose, Perma-Cool spin-on adapter and filter mount (both ported for better oil flow), and a Perma-Cool oil thermostat.

Bob

[N61WP]

Bob,

What are your thoughts on the oil thermostats? I've heard both that they are needed and not needed, especially down here in the south.


James

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by N61WP Bob, What are your thoughts on the oil thermostats? I've heard both that they are needed and not needed, especially down here in the south. James

In my eyes, they're critical here in the northeast. I've seen oil temps of 140-150 degrees otherwise, which is too cold and can damage the engine as well as reducing power and increasing emissions. Warmer states don't need them in most cases.

[samdog]

OK, Lets forget the fact that your welds are amazing,lets forget the fact that the design is very functional, and lets forget the fact that the fabrication is beautiful....This is not you standard oil pan, it is one more piece to a motor that is functional ART. This motor, to me, is a very special piece of ART....and when it is on display in Carlisle you will see what I mean

[RallyBob]

Okay, teeny update here. This engine's getting a 2.4 starter since they're lighter and more powerful. I figured since the driver's side of the engine is kinda plain compared to the passenger side with all the EFI/turbo stuff, I'd make the starter more of a focal point. I started out with intentions to just clean it and paint it silver but then got carried away a bit.

[BQS4]

With Bob, even the starter can be made into a thing of beauty!!

[namba209]

You got that right, Gene!!! I'd like to have his work done on the exhaust manifolds we built for the V-6. Then I wouldn't have to paint them to hide the mismatches. Doggone if his work doesn't put us all to shame. Ahh, yes, an expert in automotive beauty, that's what you are Bob. Keep it up and show us how with a bit of time and effort, beauty and art can be found in the mundane parts of an engine.

[RallyBob]

It's been disgustingly hot all weekend here in New England, so hot that I was stuck indoors thinking of what I could do without breaking a sweat. I spent a few hours doing the final cleaning of the shortblock components before fitting the crank to the block and checking the end play to be sure it was within spec. I was all ready to install the pistons when I realized I couldn't find my ring compressor...*sigh*. Guess I gotta order a new one of those now, no wonder I have two of every tool!

[namba209]

Order one Bob? Every auto parts store here has them in stock, unless you want a super-duper chrome plated one.

Seriously though, I've been in that boat more than once, I've got 2 each of 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets, 2 3/8 speed handles, ad infintum. my screwdriver drawer is over flowing, how many 12" common screwdrivers can you actually use at one time or #2 phillips and everything in between. I've even got 4 soldering irons and guns, go figure. And to top all that 2.5 sets of golf clubs. Pack rat? Not me.

[Gary]

LOL - I can relate to the past 2 posts. I've been looking off and on for the past 2 weeks for a tubing bender. I know I have at least 3 of them..... where they are, I do not know. :o

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by namba209 Order one Bob? Every auto parts store here has them in stock, unless you want a super-duper chrome plated one.

None of the local auto parts stores have these types of tools in stock. Must be my locale, most folks drive cars 5 years old or newer in these parts, so very few people actually work on engines. But thankfully my trip to Sears proved fruitful this morning, and I got my new tools (plus a few I wasn't planning to buy). Assembly can begin!

I have a serious tool envy problem....why else would one person need three sheet metal brakes? And four tool boxes. Or 14 cars for that matter?

Bob

[nobody]

I started realizing what I had tool wise when I started moving and putting it in one place. 4 sets of metric wrenches seems extreme. 3 ring compressors is a bit much. What possesed me to think I needed a 36 inch crescent wrench? I've only got 2 hands, why do I have 4 electrical meters and 6 soldering iron?
Yes I'm a tool junkie. got my eye on a tube bender to add to the collection too.

[namba209]

This is getting way out of hand, I just remembered, thinking about this a bit more, I've got one large roll-away, two Plano boxes, one for my model racing boats, one in the motorhome, a hip roof type from my USAF days, plus 5-6 ratchet kits, one for the monza, GT, motorhome, van, and spares just in case. Pliers, doubled and tripled on them too, 4 vice-grips, diagonal cutters, needle nose, common, and some wierd special ones I got here and there and don't know their exact purpose. 7 pipe wrenches of various sizes, some duplicated. This is way out to lunch. I guess hereditary though, my Dad was a master carpenter and had three tool boxes of hand saws.

[RallyBob]

Got a couple more things done today. Installed the pistons and rods into the shortblock, checking the exact TDC point of cylinder #1 so the front crank pulley could be marked exactly for accurate ignition timing checks.

You can also see the adjustable cam gear I'm using to correct the cam timing after the block and head have been milled flat.

In the final pic the timing cover gaskets have been checked to be sure they match the oil holes in the timing cover and the block, and they've been sprayed with 3 coats of Permatex copper spray-a-gasket for adhesion and sealing. This is a bad place to use silicone sealer, as errant silicone blobs that are squeezed out can block oil passages and cause engine damage or failure.

[RallyBob]

One little thing I like to do when fitting the pivoting tensioner to the timing cover is to replace the OEM round wire clip with an external snap ring. It's faster to remove and install and I've never had one fail.

Once all the timing rails were installed, the timing gears, the chain, the cam gear shelf and the gaskets, the timing cover was fitted and evenly torqued in place.

[neuropel]

Love the yellow detail on the timing cover. Very nice...