CIH Turbo EFI by RallyBob

[jeff denton]

Lookin good, Bob. Hey, in the second photo, is that a 2.2 head that the valve cover is sitting on?

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by jeff denton Lookin good, Bob. Hey, in the second photo, is that a 2.2 head that the valve cover is sitting on?

Yes it is, it's the head for my old man's GT turbo engine. I needed a head to bolt the valve cover onto during welding to keep it from warping.

It's not quite stock, it has been ported and fitted with 1.94"/1.625" Chevy valves.

[nobody]

That is truly a beauty. I'd love to have an audio clip of it on the dyno. Nothing quite like a turbo Opel motor all spooled up with that high pitched whine to it.

[markandson]

I am looking for the Chevy Bronze Valve guides for my 2.2 head. Earlier in this thread they are listed as .503 O.D. for 11/32 stem and 2 3/8" Long. Problem is when searching suppy houses they always list by make,year,model, engine.
What are those criteria for the guides I am looking for.
TIA.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by markandson I am looking for the Chevy Bronze Valve guides for my 2.2 head. Earlier in this thread they are listed as .503 O.D. for 11/32 stem and 2 3/8" Long. Problem is when searching suppy houses they always list by make,year,model, engine. What are those criteria for the guides I am looking for. TIA.

No idea, they're a custom fitment, not actually Chevy-specific. My machinist just orders them for me, can get them in 1/8" increments from 2" to 2.75". Try your own machine shop.

[2 Fast 4 U]

This is so far the best piece of master craftmanship i've seen yet, it's a pitty that you need to put the valve cover back on the engine, but when are you going to finish this report?????

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U This is so far the best piece of master craftmanship i've seen yet, it's a pitty that you need to put the valve cover back on the engine, but when are you going to finish this report?????

Thanks for the compliment. Yes, this project got out of hand some time ago, every part I remove the car ends up needing to be upgraded, modified, or replaced. I recently started a new job though, so as a result I'm kind of tired all the time, no energy to work on this Manta! I'll continue with my report when I start working on the car again. If I can get rested maybe I'll start on it again!

[2 Fast 4 U]

well don't get a burnout, take some time of or take a weekend vacation just get some rest. If you go nuts who's going to help the forum with technical info??????
if you have time please take a look at this:
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-engine-performance-modifications/8215-2-2-efi-intake-manifold-versus-2-4-efi-versus-carb.html
and give me advice thanks a lot

[GTJIM]

2 fast 4 U
Most of the answers you require are actually in the thread you indicated.
Plenty more on carbs vs injection is available with the search function.
Just a hint - Bob will get tired and go away if we keep insisting that he answers each little question that he has answered numerous times before .... do a LOT of searching then pose the question in general and a few of the rest of us may be able to help take a bit of the load from Bob's tired shoulders!
I just noticed that this is rally Bob's Turbo Manifold Thread - would some kind moderator like to remove these last posts to a more appropriate Thread - or just delete it?

Let's just "chill out" for a while ...... Eh?

[RallyBob]

The Getrag 265 tranny fits surprisingly well in a Manta's tunnel. The only real area of concern is the reverse light switch, it nearly strikes the driver's side of the tunnel. Of course, the other are which I knew would be trouble is the shifter itself. It sits 7" further back than a 4-speed shifter, but after some mods I did to it, that distance is reduced to 5.875". This is still enough to require cutting the tunnel, but not enough to have to relocate the emergency brake handle.

I modified the shifter into a short-throw shifter, but this presents its' own issues, namely increasing the shift tower height by 3/4" (the same amount I changed the shifter throw).

Here you can see some of the mods I had to do during the mockup stages.

[RallyBob]

At this point the factory shift boot retainer was laid in place, but it was turned around 180 degrees to coincide with the shifter location. Getting close.

I mocked up a 4-speed with mount and crossmember, and measured the output shaft height relative to the crossmember. I used a GM auto tranny mount and made a pattern for a new custom offset crossmember I'll be making. I'll be using 3/16" flat plate, bending it to match the engine tilt, and rolling the edges for more strength.

[BQS4]

Bob;
Have you already gotten ideas about what you're going to do for a console?

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by BQS4 Bob; Have you already gotten ideas about what you're going to do for a console?

Yes, I'll fabricate a sheet-metal one that mimics the OEM version, then either paint it or wrap it with fabric.

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Yes, I'll fabricate a sheet-metal one that mimics the OEM version, then either paint it or wrap it with fabric.

Would it also include something like what LENK Tuning sells, an area to allow more gauges or stereo equipment?

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by BQS4 Would it also include something like what LENK Tuning sells, an area to allow more gauges or stereo equipment?

Nope, I already have a sheet metal dash panel modification in mind which will allow for a CD player and five gauges. I think I will leave the console design basically 'as is' for more storage, will delete the ashtray, and will move the lighter to the dashboard area (for a radar detector).

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by Gary Amen, Bob!!! This is one of the best "How To" articles I have seen. Thanks for sharing it with all of Opeldom! (What is it with this marque that makes it so addicting?)

simplenes of the concept? nice shaped models?
I don't know you tell me

[GoinManta]

Originally Posted by RallyBob I will move the lighter to the dashboard area (for a radar detector).

Now why would you need one of them

[GoinManta]

BTW do we dare ask how much all that cost? (A round figure would be fine...)

I am sure its outside my budget.. but with a number in hand I can start adding it to the "When I win the lottery" list of to do things..

Charles

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by GoinManta BTW do we dare ask how much all that cost? (A round figure would be fine...) I am sure its outside my budget.. but with a number in hand I can start adding it to the "When I win the lottery" list of to do things.. Charles

Charles, are you talking about the latest component (Getrag) or the whole project? If you mean the whole project then I don't know for sure, it's not over yet. But with labor it should top $10k.

[GoinManta]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Charles, are you talking about the latest component (Getrag) or the whole project? If you mean the whole project then I don't know for sure, it's not over yet. But with labor it should top $10k.

Is that cost or the final bill? If its the final bill... hmm... want to do another ??

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by GoinManta Is that cost or the final bill? If its the final bill... hmm... want to do another ??

Not including the car itself, that's the price of this project.

There's no 'final bill' yet, as it's being done piece by piece as time and money allow. If Gregg has no money and I have no money, but parts are needed...the car sits until money is found. But that cost is basically for all the parts and my labor, plus outside labor (machine work, chrome, etc.). I didn't charge Gregg any money for parts, he paid what I paid. So that's the engine, ECU, fuel system, cooling system, tranny mods (he already had the tranny), tunnel mods, driveshaft, turbo and accessories, etc. And a ton of time of course.

But of course I spent three days rebuilding/modifying the heater box, replacing the heater core, lining the heater with reflective aluminum tape, rebuilt the fan motor, and made an upper heater duct from scratch from aluminum sheet (the OEM plastic was cracked). How do you charge for this kind of stuff? There were remnants of a mouse nest in there, and the core had leaks and the fan was frozen....I could have left it 'as is', but that would have bothered me, so I felt obligated to repair it. What good is 300 hp if you have to smell mouse turds and you can't get the defroster to work? So it's those little details that kill me (financially), it pretty much has to be done, but who's gonna pay me for three day's of labor on a heater system? I'm a slave to my own anal-retentive ways.

Bob

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Not including the car itself, that's the price of this project. There's no 'final bill' yet, as it's being done piece by piece as time and money allow. If Gregg has no money and I have no money, but parts are needed...the car sits until money is found. But that cost is basically for all the parts and my labor, plus outside labor (machine work, chrome, etc.). I didn't charge Gregg any money for parts, he paid what I paid. So that's the engine, ECU, fuel system, cooling system, tranny mods (he already had the tranny), tunnel mods, driveshaft, turbo and accessories, etc. And a ton of time of course. But of course I spent three days rebuilding/modifying the heater box, replacing the heater core, lining the heater with reflective aluminum tape, rebuilt the fan motor, and made an upper heater duct from scratch from aluminum sheet (the OEM plastic was cracked). How do you charge for this kind of stuff? There were remnants of a mouse nest in there, and the core had leaks and the fan was frozen....I could have left it 'as is', but that would have bothered me, so I felt obligated to repair it. What good is 300 hp if you have to smell mouse turds and you can't get the defroster to work? So it's those little details that kill me (financially), it pretty much has to be done, but who's gonna pay me for three day's of labor on a heater system? I'm a slave to my own anal-retentive ways. Bob

Bob;
I'm with you on this. I went through Tech school and could have been hired by any of the local dealerships. But, what you're actually saying is you have a "conscience" in that you see something wrong, or something that NEEDS to be fixed, you fix it. I can't work for a dealer knowing that all I did was change out a broke part and warranty pays for it, but, it bothers me to know that the part will break again and you didn't fix what made it break in the first place. I can not do that to someone's car, Opel or not

[GoinManta]

The real trick is finding someone willing to pay for that kind of service.

I would love to find someone local I could trust to do a lot of the work I will need done for my conversion project.

Also one reason I havent started the Blue Max.. no one found to trust with a 100 point quality restoration on the body.

Charles

[namba209]

Charles, Bob, and Gene, That's one of the reasons Willit? is taking so long. Everything taken off is made functional if it isn't already. Of course it's not as good looking as Bob's "Workmanship", but it won't break shortly after I'm done, I hope. You can find artisans if you're willing to pay for their expertise, or they get interested in your project. I was lucky finding the welder and body shop that took the extra steps needed, and over the years we've become good friends that I'm not concerned about sending work their way. Bottom line here is what I told the youngsters working for me in the USAF. "The aircraft will take off, no problem. How it lands is up to you." Shortcuts just don't get it.

[RallyBob]

This is the nastiness that existed in the heater box area when I took it apart.