CIH Turbo EFI by RallyBob

[tekenaar]

Originally posted by RallyBob I see that TIG is DC only though, so no aluminum welding capabilities. Either way, I'd go for the 220 version, it won't draw as many amps.

Begs the question . . . which one do you have and what are the specs on it and approx. $s?

[namba209]

This is getting good, lot's of ideas! One of the main reasons I'm taking this kinda slow is something my Dad told me years ago, and to put it in prospective he was a Finish Carpenter, not the country, the job title. He said, "Son, it's easier to cut more off than to try and put it back on, make sure it's more than you need to begin with". So, I do things, regarding material removal, slow and easy. I've got to go to Home Depot and get a new drill so I may pick up some Dremel Flap wheels too. Thanx for the ideas, this is starting to get fun again.

Ron

[Sportwagon75]

Otto - I bought the 120 volt unit because I wanted portability and I'm only doing light gauge work. You'll find all the specs for these machines here:

http://www.usaweld.com/product_page/...er/tig120.html

I just got mine recently and it does a GREAT job. It was $599 but they have a unit that's even smaller for about $250. Unfortunately...it's not on their web site. You have to request their catalog.

[RallyBob]

Otto, my TIG is an entry-level Miller, called an 'Econo-TIG'. I bought it used from the welding supply shop up the street from me, I paid $800, new they were about $1400. Nothing fancy, but it does the job for now. My only 'complaints' are the duty cycle when welding heavier aluminum. But aluminum needs a lot of heat anyway.

When I eventually set up a shop up north, I'm going to invest in a professional grade 300 amp Miller, Lincoln, or ESAB.

Bob

[Sporqster]

I've had a few things done over at the machine shop at my old alma mater (University of Evansville). I'm still friends with the shop tech there, and I drop by to say hi... There might be an engineering or vocational school near you with at least a 3- CNC axis mill, which can get a lot done if you're creative. Of course, this might mean you end up programming the g-code yourself, or if you use Pro-E to design parts (or I'm sure other similar packages) i'll do the dirty g-code work for you... might have to clean up the code for the particular application....

heck, for the price you might pay at a legit machine shop to have a few parts made, you could probably just pay tuition for a class at the local votech school, just to be a 'student' and have legitimate access to the machinery! Who knows, you might even learn something in the process!

[opelblitz]

Bob,

I saw this.....

http://adcache.collectorcartraderonl...8/69087998.htm

Ken

[RallyBob]

Ken, that Ascona looks good, but I think I've met my quota in Opels for now. Until I get more storage space, I'm gonna stop collecting cars for a while.

Not much accomplished today, still waiting on the last 90 degree elbow to finish up the header. But here's a good overview of how it fits relative to the EFI intake manifold.

I may not be able to finish this 'buildup' here with photos, I have lost my charger for my digital video camera. Special order of course, no one stocks it locally.

[RallyBob]

The turbine and collector held in their approximate final resting place.....

[RallyBob]

Got a very cool new tool today, it's a tubing bead former. I needed to add beads to the intercooler pipes and the coolant tubes so the silicone hoses I'm using won't blow off under pressure. Takes about 30 seconds to make a perfectly formed .050" tall bead. Very sweet.

[RallyBob]

Some of the parts ready for the chrome shop. Also have the intake manifold and the distributor, plus some NPT>to>barb brass fittings that are getting plated.

[RallyBob]

One of the 'improvements' I'm attempting is smoothing out the valve cover. Here's a 'patch' I made from .060" aluminum, it'll get welded to the side of the valve cover, capping the stock breather holes.

[RallyBob]

My valve cover patch in position. Didn't get to weld it in plae tonight, I want to put some pipe plugs into the stock breather holes first, otherwise this area will become a 'trap' for oil. Gotta hit the hardware store in the morning...

[RallyBob]

Slow day. Nice weather combined with exhaustion from work this week = very little done.

Here's the bracket I made for the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. I cut down the OEM bracket and just welded a small tab onto that, and it now bolts to some factory holes in the EFI manifold.

[RallyBob]

The Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator in place....

[RallyBob]

Some of the thermostat housing tweaks. Relocated the OEM temp sender, added a t-fitting with the temp sender for the ECU, and heli-coiled the bolt holes too.

[RallyBob]

I made up a couple of t-fittings for the heater hoses. I'll only be utilizing one of them, but figured I'd make a spare just in case. Used normal 1/2" ID copper plumbing fittings, ran a bead with my new tubing beader on the ends of all the tubes. Fits inside 5/8" ID heater hose perfectly, cost about $1.00 each to make.

[RallyBob]

The finished t-fittings, soldered together. They're going to be chrome plated too.

[pvcar]

ive got an old school version of that bead rolling maching although mine has many diffrent roller wheels that can be switched on and off to do many diffrent things, its a very nice tool to have for doing sheetmetal work.

[namba209]

Doggone it Bob, you are getting me paranoid, you do such great work. Here I am trying to make my stuff look good and you outdo me. That is some really nice workmanship. Envy, envy, envy.

Ron

[RallyBob]

Thank you Ron. It's getting me worried though, I'm having trouble staying focused (and awake) and I am way behind schedule. Getting this built in time for Carlisle is one thing, getting it show-quality is another. Sucks to have a day job...

And as nice as the car getting the transplant is, I fear the engine will overwhelm the rest of the car. Gonna have to do some last-minute underhood detailing and whatnot to make it acceptable.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by RallyBob And as nice as the car getting the transplant is, I fear the engine will overwhelm the rest of the car. Gonna have to do some last-minute underhood detailing and whatnot to make it acceptable.

Now that really scares me, seeing what you've done so far. I can imagine the detailing will be akin to something you could eat off of. I'm kinda in the same fix, trying to get the GT operational and pretty for the OMC picnic, but I've got a tremendous amount to do yet. I've got a garage full of bits and pieces that are ready for installation, if I can get the major stuff finished. Can you say pull the rear-end, front-end, paint the bottom, strip the interior, paint it, pull the engine package, clean and paint it, clean the engine bay, paint it, take the car to the body shop, fix it, paint it, oh yeh, a new interior to go along with the rest of it. I'm lucky though, I've got a couple of months before OMC.


Ron

[RallyBob]

I tried welding up the indentations in a distributor the other day, strictly for aesthetic purposes. I figured I'd sand the welds down, then polish the whole thing smooth. But....

[RallyBob]

As you can see, the heat tranfered to the inside, and distorted the slot that holds the breaker plate in position. Oops....

Guess this sucker's trash now.

[RallyBob]

The day was not a total loss, I got to finish the last header tube finally.

[RallyBob]

Finished header flange detail. Welded in and out at the flange, and steel washers were added to get to the correct flange thickness, within .002" anyway...