CIH Turbo EFI by RallyBob

[RallyBob]

Very little to report on. I'm basically burned out from this project, I'm literally falling asleep standing up. Hopefully tomorrow will be better. Just need to catch up on some sleep I think.

Anyway, got a chance to go to my machinist's shop and glass bead an old flywheel I had laying around, then had him resurface it. It was previously lightened and balanced, and it now weighs 15.5 lbs. I'll be using a heavy duty pressure plate (30% stiffer) with a semi-metallic friction material on the disc. This is substantially stronger than the factory Sachs 2.0 litre HD clutches I used to use, but also costs less. Had it built by Action Clutch Exchange in L.A., they do nice work at a reasonable cost.

[RallyBob]

As of today I finally have all the pieces for the fuel pickups fabricated, and most of the items fitted to the fuel tank, waiting only the one-way check valves.

The alternator brackets were completed, upper and lower, for the GM alternator.

I also completed the modifications to the throttle body for the fast idle bypass, and began working on a new center gauge panel. It will emulate the factory 'Rallye' panel, but will house 4 gauges rather than 3.

Sadly, I can't show any more of the progress, as I'm WAYYY over my limit for photos. So, at this point, I won't be updating this thread on a regular basis. I suggest instead, that those looking to see the final outcome of this project show up at Carlisle and see it in person!

Bob

[Gary]

Originally Posted by RallyBob ...Sadly, I can't show any more of the progress, as I'm WAYYY over my limit for photos. So, at this point, I won't be updating this thread on a regular basis. I suggest instead, that those looking to see the final outcome of this project show up at Carlisle and see it in person!Bob

Bob, you are definately not over the limit. Please continue posting....

[madhatterpdc]

I think that was Bob's way of encourging those of us that are on the fence about making the trip to Carlisle, to take the plunge and do what we have to do to get there.

[davegt27]

more PICS more PICS more PICS

i want to see the Alt bracket

for some reason Marty Reimer has me making 5 GM ALT brackets

When you can go down to NAPA and figure out which ALT to use without making a change

davegt27

[pvcar]

yes post more pictures i for some of us which can not make it want to see what its outcome looks like.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by Gary Bob, you are definately not over the limit. Please continue posting....

I guess the governor has given me a reprieve....!

Finished Getrag short-throw shifter after welding and bending. Next to a stock shifter for comparison.

[RallyBob]

The modified upper alternator bracket. I cut a stock Opel bracket down, and welded a curved GM alternator bracket to it. This is necessary because of the 'clocking' of the GM alternator's upper mount, it's further away that the Opel's Bosch alternator. I have custom brass mounts here too. They keep the alternator from oscillating at higher rpms, which I've seen happen with the original rubber mounts. This can cause premature belt failure.

As it turns out, the lower mount did not have to be ground at all to fit this particular alternator. This is odd, as every other GM alternator I've installed required some grinding to fit. I can only attribute this to the brand.
Still, the lower mount needs new bushings, I have custom delrin bushings that are offset to center the pulley correctly, and they have a 3/8" ID to fit the larger bolt required for the GM alternator.

[RallyBob]

Here I made a reinforcement ring for mounting the access cover to,it will be welded to the inside of the tank flange. It's just a piece of 11 gauge steel, drilled and tapped to accept bolts.

You may ask, how are you going to fit a ring inside a gas tank when the hole it fits inside is smaller than the ring itself? No problem, I just made two slots 180 degrees apart, then slid it inside the tank.

[BQS4]

Bob;
Two questions about the shifter as I'm about to do two of these at the same time, and they are both going into a Manta & Sportwagon. how much further back did you bend the shifter, in order for it to mimic the stock 4-spd? Also, how long of an extension did you use?
Thanks,
Gene

[RallyBob]

Here you can see where I predrilled some holes in the tank flange, and clamped the reinforcement ring below it. Then I plug-welded at the holes, securing the ring to the tank.

[BQS4]

BTW, I'm not doing the short-throw, too much to get involved with for now....

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by BQS4 Bob; Two questions about the shifter as I'm about to do two of these at the same time, and they are both going into a Manta & Sportwagon. how much further back did you bend the shifter, in order for it to mimic the stock 4-spd? Also, how long of an extension did you use? Thanks, Gene

I honestly have no idea on either count. I mimicked the stock shifter location by clamping it to the edge of a counter while seated, and reached for it. I then bent the other shifter until it had a more natural angle to it to fit my reach. Maybe another 10 degrees?

As far as the shifter extension, I made it extra long (about 10-12"?), it will be cut to fit when the car owner shows up and I can test fit it in the car.

[RallyBob]

This is the fuel pickup line I made. It will be brazed into the tank where it passes through the tank wall, and then held up near the access door by a retainer clip.

[RallyBob]

Details of the fuel pump and pickup. I made a steel fitting that's the same diameter as the pickup on the fuel pump (7/8"), and T'd it out so I'd have two side pickups and one central pickup. No, those hose barbs are not the correct size for the side pickups, I just used them for fitment purposes. The pickups are all 5/16".

The second photo shows the approximate mounting angle of the pump, and it relates to the tube I fitted to the the top of the tank. The steel clamp around the pump body will be welded to a bracket hanging from the access hole flange, then the pump is secured by tightening an allen bolt within the clamp.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by BQS4 Bob; Two questions about the shifter as I'm about to do two of these at the same time, and they are both going into a Manta & Sportwagon. how much further back did you bend the shifter, in order for it to mimic the stock 4-spd? Also, how long of an extension did you use? Thanks, Gene

Gene, I just rechecked the modified shifter. It's extended only about 8.5" from the top of the lower shift rod (which normally inserts into the upper shifter with rubber bushings). I also rechecked the increased bend angle, it's more like 20 degrees added rather than the 10 degrees I estimated earlier. When I bent the arm, I also bent it a *bit* more towards the driver's side.
HTH

Bob

[BQS4]

Bob;
I gotcha, approx 20 degrees back from normal, you added 8.5" to the stock lower half (to be cut to driver's preference later) and bent it back towards the driver a "bit", lol, sounds easy enough.
Thanks,
Gene

[namba209]

Bob, doncha just love the "Cliquot". I use them all the time when building my model racing boats. Man, I just wish I had the fab capability you have. Totally imperssive.

Ron

[RallyBob]

Clecos rock, I have hundreds of each size and yet still never have enough!

[namba209]

Yep, "Clecos", That's what happens when you "open foot- insert mouth" I need more coffee this early in the a.m. You still do fantastic work. Wish you were here on the west coast, at least you'd have more pleasant days to work.

Ron

[RallyBob]

Yesterday my fuel pickups/check valves arrived, so I finally got a chance to complete the fuel system. Here you can see the three fuel pickups, the metal lines, and the fuel pump before they're fitted to the fuel tank.

[RallyBob]

Here are the pickups and pump installed in the tank. The second photo shows the left side pickup, and the last photo shows the right side pickup. You'll note I reconfigured the right side pickup tube to clear the float for the sending unit.

[Sportwagon75]

Bob- I have 2 questions: 1st - what type of mechanism is employed in your fuel pickups to prevent pulling air from a starved pickup? Is there some type of float mechanism or do the check valves just snap shut if there's no fuel flow? 2nd - I've been following your turbo fab thread and I'm wondering what (if anything) you're planning to do for reinforcing the head gasket sealing to handle the added pressure? I don't recall if you mentioned how much boost you're adding but I was wondering if it's modest enough to be managed by stock gasketing configurations...or are you planning some upgrades there as well??? Thanks. -Scott

[RallyBob]

It's a check-valve that senses fuel flow. As you said, it closes when the flow stops, preventing air from entering.

I'll be using a fairly standard AE head gasket for a 2.0 engine. My normal procedures apply, I'll be using copper spray sealer on the gasket, and will torque it incrementally. Should be no problem with 12-14 psi boost. The killer is leanness or detonation.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Yesterday my fuel pickups/check valves arrived, so I finally got a chance to complete the fuel system. Here you can see the three fuel pickups, the metal lines, and the fuel pump before they're fitted to the fuel tank.

Where and what type of fuel pickup/check valves did you buy? . . . for future reference.