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#1 (permalink) |
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Certified Opelholic
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Opel race motor parts
Hi all
i uploaded some pics of some parts that went in my new race motor if anyone is interested http://www.opelgt.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=114 http://www.opelgt.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=116 http://www.opelgt.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=115 Davegt74 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Certified Opelholic
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Hmmm that's a loaded question
depends on what race parts you are looking for those pistons came from Gil at OGTS cost over $500 the ARP rod bolts came from Rally Bob cost over $80 (i think it was $73 but i say $80, i forget) big problem is those pistons where the last ones Gil had and the same could be said about the ARP Rod Bolts every thing for the Opel is pretty much one offs and custom jobs i am only starting to learn how to get some off this stuff What kind of race parts are you looking for? a quick run down of the cost of my motor Head $900 pistons $500 Rod bolts $80 Flywheel $700 rebuild stuff $300 Cam used $200 adj Cam gear $150 i think (forget that one) driven disk $100 motor build up including custom oil pan $1400 still need Flywheel Bolts (anyone have part numbers) and press plate but i might just use the old one the motor builder says 125Hp Ha Ha Ha Davegt74 AKA Homer Simpson |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
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Dave,
It all looks great. I'm currently getting all my parts together for a simlar build up. I'll be useing Venolia pistons, as I have 2 sets. I'm gonna just buy a done head from TGSI. I have finally found a local machine shop that I feel comfortable with for the bore and balance job. Do you have any clue where I can find some good rod bolts? What mods did you make to the crank? Thanks, James |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Certified Opelholic
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The Rod bolts that would be RallyBob's department
from what i understand they (ARP) need like and order for $300 (or something like) to make another production run so in other words ARP can do them (for a price) but i would want to double check all the specs first on the crank the machinist did that crank years ago RallyBob sent me a PIC of a Crank. the crank had its throws cut down and the crank was very modified and lightened So I am working on another crank. Basically i took the crank to a crank shop and had the throws cut down ($100) next i will hit it with a grinder myself (haven't done that yet) then is back to the crank place for more work, then to the machinist for even more work then he will prob. send it out for the final balance then it will be ready that's about the sequence the crank in the PIC had to go back the crank shop 3 times now for the stuff you did not ask for 1) do you need a lightened crank the machinist i went to said no unless you are revving the motor to 9K prob. not you could get a lot better street performance and spend less money buy getting a 2.4 from Gil at OGTS there is a lot more but i don't want to make too long of a post Davegt74 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Certified Opelholic
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Ha Ha I here you
this way can be fun i just dug up the PIC RallyBob sent me, the weight of his crank was 30lbs we could not get the crank down that low mine was 34lbs also after talking to the Crank grinder and the Machinist the weight of the Pistons, rods and stuff will offset the crank throws so you have to watch out that after you spend time and money too lighten the crank you don't end up having to add weight back to the crank Do you have an idea how much you pistons weigh? also when i talked to the crank grinder i asked How would you go about lightening the crank (after i spent the $100) he said the weight of the crank needs to be at the end of the counter weights like the cranks you see in circle track Mag i will have to redo the suspension on my GT before the motor goes in but i hope to have the Car on a Dyno in a few months Davegt74 |
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