1.9 to 2.4 Conversion Project Started

[opelwasp]

Originally Posted by RallyBob PS, get the stiffest springs they offer, or the unit will be useless! And once you have the stiff springs, shim them a bit more!

So how much is "a bit"? Like a washer on each end of the springs, or two?

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by opelwasp So how much is "a bit"? Like a washer on each end of the springs, or two?

I would go as far as I could go without coil bind.

[GTJIM]

The Phantom Gripper loads the axle gears outwards against the crownwheel carrier - and uses the thin steel shim located there as a 'cultch' - the higher the spring pressure; the higher the loading ... and the greater the WEAR!

If you decide to use one then make sure you have plenty of spare crownwheel carriers, side gears and shims - you will need them.

Oh! ... and use a very good quality diff lube - and even then the shims will end up welding themselves to the carrier and/or the side gears ... the 'gripper' is a very short term solution to the LSD problem.

TANSTAFL - no free lunch - no way out of finding/buying a 'proper' LSD unit.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by GTJIM If you decide to use one then make sure you have plenty of spare crownwheel carriers, side gears and shims - you will need them.

I didn't bother to mention the side-loading on the diff, since the eventual outcome of using the Phantom Grip will probably be a blown rear axle anyway...nothing like doubling the work-load (both tires grip instead of one) on an already weak spider/side gear assembly!

[opelwasp]

I plan on using Amsoil or Redline gear oil. As far as using the Phantom Grip in the first place, I plan to only use it till I can save up for a more substantial solution. ie... IRS

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by opelwasp I plan on using Amsoil or Redline gear oil. As far as using the Phantom Grip in the first place, I plan to only use it till I can save up for a more substantial solution. ie... IRS

+1 for Redline Shockproof. Great stuff.

[grslightng02]

The more I consider things.... I'd like to leave a 1970 Datsun 240Z in the dust.... when can we start on my 2.4 Litre Chris?

I want one like this.... Opel GT Source --- Engines

Neil

[grslightng02]

2.4L with dual 48mm Weber's 180 HP

[opelwasp]

Just say when.

[JaredT]

So still running a carb? I'm liking the idea of building one of these, but I really want EFI. Not sure what manifold/TB would be best for this application.

[opelwasp]

Originally Posted by JaredT So still running a carb? I'm liking the idea of building one of these, but I really want EFI. Not sure what manifold/TB would be best for this application.

Any Opel EFI will work really, but you will need to use a Megasquirt brain box though. I am still using the carb and it has tons of pull. The torque is great but the fastest I've had it was only 140 MPH(it will go faster).

I am currently building one for my dad an EFI version right now. The crank should be done next week.

If you have any questions PM me your number and I'll call you.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by JaredT So still running a carb? I'm liking the idea of building one of these, but I really want EFI. Not sure what manifold/TB would be best for this application.

Well, you have to match the intake to the head type at least. If you use a 1.9 or 2.0 based cylinder head, then you can use the 1.9 or 2.0 Opel EFI intake since it bolts straight up. If you use a 2.2 or 2.4 Opel head, then you can use a 2.2 EFI intake, or a modified 2.4 EFI intake, or a cut-down 3.0 litre 6-cylinder intake. Or even build one from scratch.

Opelwasp is right on as far as the ECU...the Opel one would work, but it doesn't tolerate a big cam, nor will it be able to feed the bigger 2.4 at higher rpm levels, the Opel AFM (air flow meter) will max out. You can piggyback the stock FPR (fuel pressure regulator) with a rising-rate regulator to 'do it' cheap and allow for fuel enrichment at higher rpms.

However it's better to get rid of the stock Opel throttle body, installing a proper TPS and throttle body from a later model vehicle (I like Nissan SR20 ones because they are a bolt-on with minimal work), then scrap the AFM altogether and use an aftermarket ECU that is tuneable and uses the TPS and a MAP sensor for feedback (as well as air temp and coolant temp).

One thing to keep in mind is that a 2.4 will give a nice fat increase in torque compared to a 1.9. The overall powerband will be shifted lower too (relative to the 1.9). Don't expect a big power increase with the 2.4 unless you have done more to the engine to increase airflow, such as camshaft, head work, intake work, and exhaust work. Generally bigger displacement yields greater torque, but more airflow yields greater power.

Bob