Tinyvette at Sears Pointless 2015
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Thread: Tinyvette at Sears Pointless 2015

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    3000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Tinyvette at Sears Pointless 2015

    We've been accepted into this race. That's getting to be something of a big deal seeing as over 300 teams try to get into the Sonoma Raceway races. Anyway, we are in, and it's time to get busy. Hopefully the Phoenix Racing guys have also been accepted because that will put two GTs on the same track again.



    Event details:
    • Date: March 21-22, 2015
    • Track: Sonoma Raceway, Sonoma, CA
    • Drivers: TBA, but at this time 8 people have told me they want a seat in the car, not including Lowkey.


    Our motor is still busted. Apparently giving it a month off wasn't enough time for it to heal itself. Until an hour ago I hadn't touched it, which is surprising because I am really curious to see how much damage we did. Anyway, the car is on jack stands again and I've started taking parts off. The radiator is out and the intake/carbs are off. I'll get the rest off tomorrow and if I start early enough/am inspired I'll pull the motor, too.

    We have a spare 2.0 almost ready. The bottom end is done, the rings have been gapped, and the pistons are ready to go in. I've got a spare head all ready to go. I'll need a full gasket kit because I used the one meant for this motor in the Arse-Freeze fiasco.

    I love working on these things and wish I could do it more but other projects and money issue are competing for my time. I'm sure you all know the story.

    More to come, naturally.

    Mike

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    2000 Post Club My location poor gt (R.I.P)'s Avatar
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    Mike, Great job on getting in. 7 wks. to go, I'm sure the urge to race & Opelitis will rear it's ugly hand once again, and you will be hard at it. Good luck, some pics of the blown motor, we like carnage. Man cave art and all

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    3000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    I'll get it done with time to spare, this time.

    The engine is ready to pull. Everything is off, drained, and disconnected. I can't believe how much easier this has been so far. I guess I've had a bit of practice recently. I could get the motor out tonight but then I'd want to take it apart, and then... Best to wait for tomorrow.

    A few pics anyway.

    Bolt-ons.


    The mood/atmosphere shot.
    Nurelic 17 likes this.

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    2000 Post Club GeorgeOpel's Avatar
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    You put a blower on the tiny vette?

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    3000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Blower? Let me think about that. I might have an idea.

    In other news, it's sunny and 70°F here in January California, perfect weather for a tear down.

    No problem lowering it onto the dolly. (Lots of practice, unfortunately.)



    No problem getting it out. (Lots of practice, unfortunately.)



    It's become a too familiar scene around here.dolly. (Lots of practice, unfortunately.)



    Stay tuned for broken motor pics.
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    3000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    I knew we had a busted timing chain and lifters. To go along with that I was expecting bent valves, maybe a cracked head, damaged pistons, damaged crank, and suspect con rods. Basically everything except the block.

    Did you know that solid lifters were hollow and that if you squeeze then too hard they mushroom and split? That seems to be what happened, and they broke before the valves and pistons took a beating.

    Exhibit A - The bad.



    Exhibit B - The good and the bad.



    Exhibit C - Closer to the root cause.



    Exhibit D - not bad at all. The pistons Ford Cook gave us looked like this.



    Exhibit E - Even the valves look OK.


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    3000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Exhibit F - Broken teeth on the cam gear



    Exhibit G - Broken teeth and a chipped and scuffed oil pump gear.



    Exhibit H - The timing chain, looking pretty much how I thought it would.



    Exhibit I - Busted lifters.

    poor gt (R.I.P) likes this.

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    Opeler bello's Avatar
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    [
    Did you know that solid lifters were hollow and that if you squeeze then too hard they mushroom and split? That seems to be what happened, and they broke before the valves and pistons took a beating.

    Exhibit A - The bad.

    Hi- I'm not sure here, but I think what you have there are Hydraulic lifters....

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bello View Post

    Hi- I'm not sure here, but I think what you have there are Hydraulic lifters....
    Ernie your right..a hyd body at least.. The ? is was they converted to solids.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Opeler bello's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    Ernie your right..a hyd body at least.. The ? is was they converted to solids.
    Hi Wrench- Hydraulics on a solid cam will run, but generally noisy and not well.... If they were running all hydraulic, my guess is the lifters pumped up and held open the valves- could explain the smacked #4 piston top... My guess is the chain broke when a chunk of lifter got between chain and sprocket- which are not very elastic...

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    It could be that TeamTinyVette might be experimenting with lite-weight lifters.
    First you gut the hyd. lifter of the plunger and spring then place a solid spacer in the bore.
    I'm almost wondering if they forgot to plug up the oil feed hole.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Opeler bello's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    Ernie your right..a hyd body at least.. The ? is was they converted to solids.
    Hi Wrench- Hydraulics on a solid cam will run, but generally noisy and not well.... If they were running all hydraulic, my guess is the lifters pumped up and held open the valves- could explain the smacked #4 piston top... My guess is the chain broke when a chunk of lifter got between chain and sprocket- which are not very elastic...

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    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    It could be that TeamTinyVette might be experimenting with lite-weight lifters.
    First you gut the hyd. lifter of the plunger and spring then place a solid spacer in the bore.
    I'm almost wondering if they forgot to plug up the oil feed hole.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    3000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    They are solids. I'll get pics of the before and after for you soon.

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    3000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Today I cleaned up all of the parts I took off the engine, repainting some of them, and all round inspecting and making everything pretty again.



    The lifters are solids, consisting of a cast barrel and a press-fit cap. No oil holes and no moving parts. I'm not sure if the photo below helps. If not, it looks like you'll have to come the OMC Anniversary /Opel Nationals next year to see them yourself.


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    3000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Notice anything different?

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    3000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bello View Post
    Hi Wrench- Hydraulics on a solid cam will run, but generally noisy and not well.... If they were running all hydraulic, my guess is the lifters pumped up and held open the valves- could explain the smacked #4 piston top... My guess is the chain broke when a chunk of lifter got between chain and sprocket- which are not very elastic...
    The chain broke when a cam gear bolt backed out. Some idiot didn't torque them. He's making all kinds of excuses like 5 hours sleep over three days. What a wimp.

    The hydraulics on our parts car had pumped up (most likely) and the result was several broken lobes and the front end of the cam shaft itself twisted off. That's a strong chain!

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    Member My location West Coast GT's Avatar
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    How is the camshaft looking?

    Which is better for racing; hydraulic or solid lifers?
    "Squealing tires are happy tires" - The Stig

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    3000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    The cam looks OK, but I am going to ask around to see what's the best way to make sure.

    My understanding is that solids are better for high-RPM operation where hydraulics may pump up or pump down. Hydraulics are quieter and do not need to be adjusted. We have to adjust ours and we do that after every race now.

    Edit - This might help - http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...aulic-lifters/

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    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    I've never seen an Opel lifter self destruct in that manner.

    Do yourself a favor and have the rocker arms magnafluxed. Extra care checking around the center pivot and the sliding tip. Usually a rocker arm will shatter
    (or rocker stud will break) when the valves hit the pistons like that.

    Or even better, toss the rockers and put on a good known set.
    If the lifter got that demolished, the rockers got a heck of a load put on them. They may be okay or they may fail in 22 hours...or in 20 minutes. Not worth the risk IMO when you have so much invested in an endurance racing event.
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