I've got a bunch of Gil's stickers. I need some from this site.
I've got a bunch of Gil's stickers. I need some from this site.
I'm back consulting, but full time now, so I have less time but more money to work on my bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT
I got the decals from here. The once was a link.
Today, final primer coat. Tomorrow, light sanding then YELLOW!
Mike, that first shot would make a nice diorama in 1/43rd or 1/87th scale. "A true picture of owning an Opel GT."
It's yellow again, and it needs more yellow, but rain is predicted for tomorrow.
Not much to report today. It's taking forever for the paint to dry enough to wet sand. Rust-Oleum wants 24 hours before recoating. Regular car paints are much quicker.
I worked on the lower a-arms, the rear deck (under the rear window), and a replacement engine cross-member that has stops to keep the engine out of the radiator in case the motor mounts break (We've broken a couple of them.). We'll be using Gil's newer and stronger motor mounts this time.
Meanwhile, Kurt is getting busy adding castors to his VW bus rotisserie.
It's raining now, but tomorrow we sand and maybe even spray a second coat.
OK, I'll bite! In the third pic above, you have what look like 3" diameter holes on the flats of the inlets, one on each side. What is the purpose of these?
"Tiny" is looking really good and the updates sound like (more) serious racing ahead! Hope to see the car soon! -- Doug
We still need to sand and apply another coat, but it is looking good, too nice to race, almost. Most of all, 7 years of small dents and other flaws are gone.
As to your question - pictures!
And a later edition ... (photo)
PS - I don't know if you have one of these, but if not, enjoy!
I took a longer look at the curves and I don't "like" the width point for 50% of the duct length (1.398 in the data, labelled as 1.4). This part of the curve is from a curve fit of "..optimized fits" and has a definite kink at that point. I eyeballed the new value (cell N64) as 2.410 which makes the point move to 1.446 (which is still a 1.4 label). It looks much better to me, but I will try to find an "uncorrupted" curve definition (i.e., digital).
Last edited by slracer; 02-02-2017 at 03:57 PM. Reason: Added Info
Thanks. I'll try it out this weekend.
Thursday: The temperatures were barely high enough and the humidity barely low enough to paint. Yes, it's Rust-Oleum. With the second coat it looks less green but there are still some thin spots. It needs a third coat. It won't be perfect, by a long shot, but we've come this far and it seems not giving it the third coat would be cheating ourselves.
Rust-Oleum wants 24 hours between coats at 70°F. Temperatures haven't been above 60°F in several days so we'll need to wait longer before wet sanding and applying the next coat.
The other parts of the car are ready to go back on but I'll wait for the painting to be done.
The best part of all this is not the paint but that all of the dents and damage of 7 years of racing have been erased, along with rust and other damage from 25 years in a field, getting wrecked in SoCal, having been Lowkey's car. There are still a few left, but, well, we have good excuses for them.
We're joking that at the next race (about 6 weeks from now) we'll flunk BS Inspection completely and they'll kick us out for gross violations of LeMons ethics and spirit, even though this is a clear cut case of losing our minds and putting many hours into something of little worth and which will surely fail by turn 1. Or that they'll invent new penalties that involve miscreant teams washing and waxing our car in their underwear, all girly like, or counting the dust specks and solvent pops, and later in the race our newly acquired rock chips. We're thinking of bringing the car through Tech and BS with a set of those velvety ropes you see at theaters to guide people to where they are going, us all wearing white gloves and such. I'm definitely going to bring a door mat so drivers will wipe their feet before getting in the car.
Last edited by m610; 02-03-2017 at 05:25 PM.
It's been a busy and distracting week, with work getting done but not much to show for the Tinyvette, until today.
The air dam has been repaired and will be getting bondo tomorrow. Yes, again. Yes it was about to break in two, again. No, the duct tape wasn't even sticking to it anymore. At least it's better off than the three-parter we came home with after Reno-Fernley.
The car got wet-sanded one last time (Really, last time) and got its final coat of yellow. Yes, Rust-Oleum. Give it a couple of days to dry then we go in with black trim paint, then reassembly.
The lower a-arms are still out. I'm going to find some Teflon strip tomorrow to put between the leaf spring and the hard rubber block whatchamacallit. It does not slide easily and was getting torn up, and it was new.
The original Tinyvette beauty spec was 35 feet at 35 mph. I think we have now achieved 10 feet at 5 mph. It's looking nice. Too bad we're just going to crash it again.
I found authentic-looking yellow and black Corvette Racing team jersey's online. I'll get some for the team, for our parade going through tech and BS inspections. We simply have to dress up or do something silly the first time we take the renewed Tinyvette past the LeMons judges. That whole white glove/concours-quality idea would have just backfired on us so we'll just double down on the wannabe Corvette/Le Mans shtick.
Today "Good enough." became "Good. Enough!"
Yea, we went a little too far. The plan was to simply replace the right rear quarter and roller on some more Rust-Oleum. I even bought the paint and rollers. But then January happened and Kurt said, "You know, I have some left over primer from Funky Truck that will dry within an hour". Rust-Oleum wanted 24 hours, higher temperatures, and lower humidity. Then after that Kurt said, "You know, I have some sealer left over from Funky Truck, and it sands really nicely." Eventually, after much spraying and sanding and waiting for better weather, we got around to the Rust-Oleum, sprayed, 50% dilution, three coats.
What the hell. Racing is all about going to excessive lengths doing something of no real value to society other than perhaps keeping a couple of guys off the street and out of trouble for a little while, right? I think we succeeded.
There's still a lot to do. Buffing and a top coat of clear, black for the rear and window frames, the interior and engine bay need cleaning, lights and all have to be put back on, we need to finish the brake pedal modification, etc. And most importantly, decals!
P.S. I found my LeMons hat.
The car is finally getting put back together. So far - fuel tank,battery (both in the rear), exhaust leak fixed, hardware in the front is going on, trim and reroute the fire extinguisher pull-cable,and tons more. It's also getting thoroughly cleaned.
I might knock off early today to head home to pick up stuff I can't afford to lose in a flood. Davis is about 50-60 miles downstream from the Oroville dam and only 6 miles from the Yolo County Bypass's levee. My whole source of income, plus the Blitz, is on a computer.
The little stuff takes a lot of time, but things are getting done. The pushed-in exhaust is now back in place, some lights are in, I cleaned and painted the passenger area and started trying to figure out how to get the brake pedal out. I really don't want to get on my back and crawl in there.
Got a reminder of how hot the passenger foot area gets. The heat from the header burns the paint off, and burns OFF whatever I stick on that paint.
Last edited by m610; 02-15-2017 at 02:08 AM.
Not a lot of the type of progress that shows in photos lately. I've mostly been cleaning and taking care of the little things. My to-do list is, for once, getting shorter. Usually it just keeps growing and growing until it is time to race.
Minor stuff is:
- Fuel tank vent
- Cleaned and painted the passenger area
- Alternator bracket/alignment
- Exhaust header/pipe gasket
- Seat sliders for passenger seat
- Extinguisher bottle cable
- Relocate the throttle return spring
- General under-car cleaning, inspection, bolt tightening
- Door latch plates
- Paint touch-up of yellow in the engine bay
- Fab up little brackets to hold hood pin cables
Eric is finishing the repair of the air dam. Today he finished some fiberglass work and installed threaded inserts for a rubber extension of the air dam.
Kurt is "wasting" his time working on his VW bus.
Thanks. It looks too nice to even work on. I have to be so careful with tools, making sure I am clean before leaning on the car to reach inside or something, even just walking past it. How the hell am I also going to race this car?
Today I didn't even touch the car, which was harder that it sounds and more important, too. We were going past it with armfuls of rusty VW parts, rolling the welder and other tools back inside and next to the car, all in preparation for a side-project, pouring a concrete slab. You might have noticed the mud and the plank in the foreground of some of the night shots. That's were the slab is going. So after loading the rafters with vintage sheet metal and motor guts we went and got 8000 pounds of high-strength concrete and the dug out the area. It's been a long time since I did that type of work. I guess I am not too old, at 62, to lug my 4000 pounds share from truck to slab-site.
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