Sears Pointless 2017
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  1. #1
    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Sears Pointless 2017

    Our first race of the year!

    Track: Sonoma Raceway
    Date: March 25-26

    Drivers for Sears Pointless?
    To be determined. Zep is almost a certainty and Jon has told me he wants to. I just need his confirmation. Gary is a possible fourth driver. We'll see if he responds to my email. We're also looking at a new driver. Kurt knows him. He's a test pilot, a hang glider pilot, has his own high tech business, has track experience but no race experience.

    Post-Race
    I finally got out to look over the car last week and again today. Other than the body damage and the oil things look pretty good. I did some cleanup today and made a to-do list. Tomorrow I'll finish the cleanup and will start taking care of the usual post-race issues (fluids, wheel bearings, brakes) and will start on the to-do list.

    Currently on the to-do list:

    1. Replace valve cover gasket
    2. Adjust valves
    3. Compression test
    4. Replace defective oil pressure gauge
    5. Swap in the other (repaired) distributor and update the spare (currently on the engine)
    6. Look into the brake pedal travel issue. Our options are a bigger bore master cylinder or relocate the attachment point on the pedal arm. Either way it will mean pushing harder on the brake pedal.
    7. Brakes pulling left, which was actually an improvement over previous races. I'll inspect everything and will check to see if the control arm got bent. I'll also get them reinforced.
    8. The radiator overflow bottle was full. I need to find out why. The engine never got hotter than normal.
    9. Replace v-belt with a toothed belt and improve the alternator mounting.


    Safety
    In the safety department, I've been looking at getting a transmission blanket, but seeing how little room we have down there an how much oil we spray down there I think we'll be better off getting John to build us a steel scatter shield for the unlikely but very dramatic possibility that our flywheel tries to make its escape. That will mean pulling the engine, so this will have to wait.

    Other Upgrades
    I'm thinking of getting a passenger seat that we can use at track days, race schools, and on the street. Roll cage modifications will have to be part of that upgrade.

    I haven't given up on getting an Isuzu diff and rear disc brakes.

    I've got a spare gas tank. The plan is to cut the top off, install it in the car, have John fabricate a taller top, get a custom bladder, put on the lid, call it done. With 20 gallons we should be able to skip a pit stop each day. The big question now is, can our drivers handle 3.5 hour stints?

    Body Repairs
    I'm still looking into this. Once I find a rear clip I'll haul everything to Kurt's in Petaluma and we'll take care of it there. (I'll call Gil tomorrow to see if he has one for us.) At the same time I'll repair the air dam and other odd bits of race scarring. The car will also get a repaint.

    The Incident at Arse-Freeze
    The three stories I hear were generally similar and after talking to Tom I think we got the whole story. Tom missed the brake pedal entering T9 chicane, as new drivers in this car are apt to do. Once he found it again he had to kill off a lot of speed quickly to keep the car on track. The car behind him did not expect the sudden slowing and had no time to react. Case closed. Also, no usable video. Sorry.

    Track Day
    Gene and April, friends of our team, are planning on taking "Larry" to Thunderhill about a week before Sears Pointless. If any of my guys are interested I can also take the Tinyvette and we can get in some practice.

    Race School
    I'm considering it.

    That's all for now.

    Mike
    Last edited by m610; 01-02-2017 at 02:11 PM.

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  3. #2
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Decent dash cams can now be had for as low as $40 (less decent even lower). It might be cool to install four of them in the TinyVette for the races. I don't know how long a video you can save on a 32GB drive but it would record any incidents and save them.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
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    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  4. #3
    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    I already have four cameras in the car. I think I'm having trouble with the memory cards.

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    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m610 View Post
    Thanks.

    I already have four cameras in the car. I think I'm having trouble with the memory cards.
    Ah, OK.
    I know that there have been reports that the Samsung cards aren't compatible with some dash cams. Also, if the dash cam is rated for 32GB and you put in a 64 you will have issues.
    I don't know what hardware you are using but maybe there are some flash upgrades that can be installed.

    I wonder if you could add a small server like a Raspberry Pi and a solid state drive to capture the content? If so then you'd be able to capture an entire race on one drive.
    (I don't know how to do this but there are a LOT of geeks out there that probably do).
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  7. #5
    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Sacrificial Opel

    Kurt and I killed an Opel. We feel bad, but really, it was already dead, victim of a botched surgery followed by years of neglect (Last registration was in 1987). Gil gave it to us to cut up for body panels we needed. We just need to return the rear end, front cross-member, and any other useful non-racing bits.



    We need to replace the right rear corner. Cutting the top off our unfortunate victim gave us a better look at the area we need to replace.

    Also, I now have a lifetime supply of doors. I've already got three hanging on the wall. Of course, now I'll never need another one.

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    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    It was sad to see what we had to do to the donor car, but we did get about everything off of it that could be useful before we cut it in half and took it to be recycled.

    The work continues. Once we had the right-rear quarter sheet metal off it got cleaned and we started in on the Tinyvette. It turns out the rear half of the Tinyvette was attached using aluminum rivets, so it was fairly easy to remove.

    I was a bit scary cutting into the Tinyvette, but it had to be done.

    As of late yesterday the new sheet metal was in place. There's a lot of grinding yet to be done, mostly knocking off the tops of the plug welds but also cleaning up some seam welds. After that, bondo, and after that paint, but with rain expected through early next week paint won't happen until Tuesday/Wednesday. Still, I picked up a couple of quarts of Rust-Oleum Sunburst Yellow today, along with thinner and masking supplies.

    The mechanicals appear to be in great shape. We have a simple exhaust leak to fix and that's about it. We'll also see what we can do to reduce brake pedal travel and fix a few other minor things.
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    Now would be a good time to change to an opening trunk! . .

    Doug

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    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    I need to replace the RR quarter panel on mine and these pictures may come in handy!
    Thurston County, WA, effective motto: "Gophers, Gophers Über Alles"

  11. #9
    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    The work continues. Our goal is to have it ready for paint on Tuesday. The rain will let up on Tuesday. We'll go with an epoxy coat, then a sealer, then Rust-Oleum. The Rust-Oleum primer option was not practical given the temperatures and the 24 hour wait for recoat, at 70F.

    We've fixed a ton of little things along the way, discovered and repaired damage that existed before we got the car. We'll install Dzus fasteners for the air day tomorrow and will look into modifying the brake pedal to get less pedal travel.
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    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    It's not raining, but it is too cold to paint. Maybe by this afternoon we can do that. Highs are expected to reach 53F.

    We did a lot of detail work and improving smaller things, like the front tow hook, the bumper mounting and the air dam mounting. Also lots of sanding and even more bondo.

    A frequently heard phrase in LeMons circles - "500 dollar race car my ass!" applied here, not because of the money spent, but the time.

    Mike

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    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Rollered no more

    Today: final sanding, a last minute cave and pave, hours cleaning and masking, then finally, with temperatures barely high enough for paint, it got a coat of epoxy sealer followed immediately with a thick coat of polyester surfacer. Tomorrow, more sanding, final patches, and soon after, that magnificent Sunburst Yellow Rust-Oleum.

    I still need to repair the air dam.

    We've modified the brake lever and will have to install that, later.

    We estimate that less that half of the car is original. Since I've had the car both doors, the left rear quarter, the rear itself, and the rear deck have been replaced. We replaced part of the right-rear quarter last year, but even at that time that section of the car was not original.

    Mike
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    Mike, I sent you a PM. -- Doug

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    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slracer View Post
    Mike, I sent you a PM. -- Doug
    Replied, and I deleted older messages.

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    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Not much to report today. Did some preparations for final touch-ups and block sanding, began the repair of the air dam, prepared the bumper for a repaint.

    Kurt and I have been discussing ways to get cold air to the carburetors. We've pretty much settled on putting a NACA duct in the hood. To do that we'll have to move the hood's frame. Kurt is game for that. I've got a spare hood.
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    Quote Originally Posted by m610 View Post
    Not much to report today. Did some preparations for final touch-ups and block sanding, began the repair of the air dam, prepared the bumper for a repaint.

    Kurt and I have been discussing ways to get cold air to the carburetors. We've pretty much settled on putting a NACA duct in the hood. To do that we'll have to move the hood's frame. Kurt is game for that. I've got a spare hood.
    Mike, An NACA duct requires a forward facing slope to function correctly. A surface of that description is as far forward on the hood as possible. As an alternative location, you might consider changing one of the stock scoops on the nose with a duct. That would also let it be fixed and not require flexible ducting from the hood to the carbs.

    A small "pro stock" type where the hood bump is now would allow a direct input to the carbs. FWIW, a 2.3 x 6.9 elliptical inlet would provide all the air you need from 60 mph and up. Safety factor is 2.0 on those dimensions using 6000 rpm. Just sayin'

    Just trying to help!

    Doug

    Got your message. Thanks,
    Last edited by slracer; 01-26-2017 at 12:50 AM.

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    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    ^ Thanks for the tip.

    Lots of progress on little things today. In other words, not much progress.

    We would have had the car block sanded and ready for paint except that in 50 degree weather (daily highs, low 30s at night) two days is not long enough for the two layers we sprayed already to fully harden. Therefore, a trip to the store and 2500 watts in heat lamps. A couple hours per corner should do it.

    Mike
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    Modified brake pedal, reinforced lower a-arm, and lots of sanding, but not done yet. Each section of the car has to be under heat lamps for at least an hour before it can be sanded.

    Paint is possible tomorrow.
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    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    I'm home for a day to do laundry, catch up on Blitz business, and get our decal issues sorted. Fully adorned the Tinyvette will have 66 decals on it. At 5 hp each...
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    2000 Post Club My location m610's Avatar
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    Which reminds me, I need some more OpelGT.com decals, red. How do I get some?

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    OpelGT.com Übermoderator My location kwilford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m610 View Post
    Which reminds me, I need some more OpelGT.com decals, red. How do I get some?
    I simply ordered a VERY large box of parts, and Gil through a bunch of decals in...
    Keith Wilford
    I'm back consulting, but full time now, so I have less time but more money to work on my bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT

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