PROJECT - Restoration of 1972 Opel GT Download

[opelspyder]

Well, while I am at await for parts, I've taken a break (well sort of-whatever I can squeeze in I do) Anyways many people wonder what I use as far as information when I am working on a car and have questions. I do use this site quite frequently, but sometimes you need info right in front of you so I set up a temporary Opel Library at work in my spare tool box. I have the Blitz issues dating back to 1983-current in folders, several sevice manuals ranging from all years, a couple Chiltons for uncommon answers to test procedures, Misc internet knowhow, and Test articles and pictures as well. Also I have a large parts and illustrations catalog that comes in handy on all makes and models. In the backdrop I have the Laminated Wiring diagram from JJ Wheatley. I also keep everything as far as instructions from parts I have bought and part numbers for future purchases as well as reciepts. I probably should have used them more on some part searches for this project, but lots of stuff is unavailable which could be bought 2 years ago. Also credit goes out to Harold Collins of Chapel Hill, TN (This will be the only time I give him credit so soak it up!!) He has a wealth of misc parts as well as years knowledge to help assist with immediate questions and service procedures. Please note anytime you are working or starting work on an Opel it is important to have a reference library...its easy to come by and is very well rated compared to other cars I have worked on in the past, and there is an abundance of info available...unlike the Jaguar XK140 I worked on, The Packards, and Triumph. So there is not any excuse to not have the answer to a problem you encounter.
Keith

[opelspyder]

It seems I always find something of interest in these old cars lurking behind the seats or carpet, just last month I found a 1942 Mercury Dime in a 55 Packard. Well in Matts 1972 Opel I found a 1972 Penny (Possibly change from the first purchase made while driving this car back in 1972), and a Holden Ticket??? Says it face value is 1/2 Million...so there is a chance I might take the penalty and retire early and then pay to have the Opel restored for me. Here is the pic
Keith

[opelspyder]

Please make note of this as it has been a question for many people for years. Even to myself. When taking the front brake caliper halves apart (which, if you don't have to, DON'T!) But if you must, there has always been a problem finding a tool that fits the serated bolts. It is not torxk, it is not triple square or tamper proofs. It is called a "Torxs Plus" and is available through your Mac tool dealer in 1/4" drive for under $8. The plus signifies that it is a modified 6 point torxs but basically it does not taper and instead of pointed tips, they are squared off. The "TP30" is the correct size bit for the caliper application, and it fits as designed. So make sure if you do decide to remove the halves, to use this proper tool.
Keith
Bit is pictured for reference

[opelspyder]

Here are pictures step-by-step of the install of the pertronix electronic ignition. I figured some may want pictures to see how simple it is to install inside a distributor. First removal of the points, then the base plate from the Pertronix kit is installed. Then the rotor and the unit. Run wires through the hole that the condensor wire ran through. Then set the air gap with the clear plastic feeler gauge included. Never set points again

[opelspyder]

Well I went to the sand blasters today to see progress and drop the rear end off to be powdercoated. Still waiting on a warmer day before the main body is sandblasted and primed. We are using a DP50 primer from PPG in these pictures. We want a high quality protective coating after it is blasted. Well, the hood has some piholes I will have to figure out how I want to go about making solid.
Keith

Also Gary if there is a way to merge these files to the new project frorum, please do so. If not I will continue to post here and keep the thread running

[opelspyder]

Here is the front suspension crossmember powdercoated and ready for assembly. Please note I like to drill a small hole in the center of each side in the middle of these members in the strength lips. What I've noticed (and hate) is if you drain the cooling system or if you get water down there, the water has no where to escape (nor does debris) This helps as it acts as a drain and allows it to easily dry out and not cause rust in these areas. I also got the engine mount back. Notice one side is taller than the other-that is your cause of engine tilt.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Here is the manifold we are using. Not anything special, but has a high temp Jet-Hot coating in the dark grey. We opted not to do the high polish silver on this, but have something blend with the new exhaust system we are getting. We are looking for a good solid coating that will not rust or fade due to extreme heat. If you remeber in earlier post, we had a cracked manifold and studs were broke. This is our replacement.
Keith

Stay tuned!!! This week I will be doing an in depth front end rebuild with lots of pictures to help out others in this area. Will have poly bushings from GT Source and all new parts!!!

[opelspyder]

When I began this restoration I noted that the 2 bolt style thermostat housing was used, but the head required the 3 bolt style. While they both can be used, we opted to get the correct style. Here is the housing and intake fitting coated. Next week I will get a chance to work on the intake.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Well all the parts came into today and I must say Opel Gt Source is really ahead of the game, not only in quality, but in service. The seals and bushings and everything speak for themselves and the reproduction stuff is better than the original usually by far. Here are some pics of the parts.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Here are a couple pics of the distributor mocked up, the exhaust manifold and the intake are just mocked up as well. I have to modify the intake before I coat it. It does not have the 90 degree fitting in the rear, so I am installing one. I also have the crossmember and engine mounts installed, but will be in later picture
Keith

[opelspyder]

This is the beginning post of the rebuild of the a-arms. I have more pictures that I will load in the morning. They were taken from a work camera. Anyways right here I have the bare lower A-Arm, the outer sleeves(shell that holds bushing) were removed as well, because I coated the lower mount. Most times if you are reusing the inner sleeves, you do not have to remove these shells to install new bushings. I opted for new inner sleeves as well. Be sure if you take out the lower mount, you intall it pointing the correct way. I have another A-Arm not taken apart I am using for quick reference as the service manual doesn't show this well. I press in the shells after I have placed the lower bracket into the arm-If not, I would not be able to get the lower mount in and would have to push sleeves back out. I apply some anti-sieze to the inner sleeve between the mount and the inner sleeves so if I ever have to take back apart, I have a fighting chance.-more info tomorrow on this step by step.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Okay, here are pictures of the outer shells being installed as well as the inner sleeves. I used the antisieze on the inside of the inner sleeves. Once you do that, take the bushings provided for the lower A-arm and use the special grease and totally cover the bushing here. Too much grease is not a bad thing here, this will prevent squeeking later. Also install the bushings, pull out and rotate, then reinstall. That way everything is properly greased

[opelspyder]

The upper A-Arms are simple to install, nothing unusual here, just lube up the bushings properly and install the sleeves, I will be posting later this week on actual assembly of of A-Arms to the front suspension. I would rate this job at a 6. From 1-10, 10 being the hardest. The reason I rate it at that is due to spring removal and rusted parts removal. Its a lot nicer replacing these bushings on clean painted parts.
KEith

[opelspyder]

Here are pictures of the transmission. Everything powdercoated and put back except the shifter. I use permatex Ultra Black on my gaskets when putting back together. I found the best results from it, and it is a dark gray and black color so it hides well. The side seals were replaced and in one picture you can see the lever modification for future seal removal. Be sure when putting on the pan gasket that you have the reverse detent spring installed with the little plug. This was missing from this tranny and I scavenged it from a parts tranny I had. New seals all around on this unit, I even took special care to seal anything that might leak or want to cause a leak. The only drawback to these trannys in my opinion is there are too many places for them to leak. Out of 6 places to leak they will leak from 9!!!! New clutch boot was used and will later post pics of the clutch install.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Here is the assembly of the upper A-Arm to the front crossmember. I have it wrapped up so forgive the background. Any ways you should have two washers, thin and thick, but also you should have a rubber ring, this ring goes towards the rear of the car on the back sleeve. It is just a dampner ring, but I suggest to reuse it. Its there for a reason. Anyways the thin washer will go towards the front, and the thick washer towards the rear. Still pretty simple here. I did get replacement upper bolts and reused nuts. Simply lube and install.
Keith

[opelspyder]

I had to make modifications to the rear of the intake to accept the 90 degree fitting for the pcv setup. This intake used a front port and I felt it looks so much better to have it coming out the back in one quick shot. Post answers or suggestions in the comments thread to this question. Should I leave the heat shield or do without. Either way it is fine, I run my GT without it because I like to see the intake and all. I am going to coat the intake and need to deside if I want to cover it with the ugly heat shield, or run without. Like I said either way, but lets see what others think might be best, I may even start a poll on the comments thread. Although the intake is not coated, you can see the difference in the pictures
Keith

[opelspyder]

I got the gas tank and radiator back today. The gas tank was sealed and new standard bung welded in the bottom of the tank for the fuel line. Cleaned up and put a light undercoating on it. We use this product called 3M Body Shultz , it comes in 12oz plastic containers and uses a special gun. I have not seen an undercoat that performs as well or close to this product, I rate it 10 out of 10. It completely dries and is paintable. I also painted the front spring with a heavy duty chassis paint. It had rubber parts so I could not powdercoat it, unless I totally dissassembled it, and I do not wish to open that can of worms
Keith

[opelspyder]

Okay, I had the chance to take my time and assemble the rest of the front end. You saw where we installed the A-Arm Bushings, and had all the front end components powdercoated. Here is the spring painted and we are installing the bushings. Pretty simple here as well, the spring holes are egg shaped and the bushings are as well. There is a line up mark to help guide you the right direction, but it will pretty much go only one way. Lube up with the special teflon grease here as well.

[opelspyder]

Now I have installed the spring removal clamp and other spring rubber. For this install I decided to install the spring eye bolts first, and then the lower A-arm bolts after the spring is compressed. The new spring eye bushings were very tight in the a-arms and this is why I decided to do it this way, if I didn't have this on a compressor and it was stll on the car, I probably would install the spring eye bolt last. Anyways, with both A-arms positioned and the spring eye bolts in place, I begin to put tension on the spring with the compressor tool. Once I am getting close I bring the front suspension bracket underneath and position it where it will roughly need to be. I am doing this upside down, which makes it a little more difficult, but maybe a little safer with the spring pointing downward. There are some rubber spring mounts with a metal plate that goes between the spring and the suspension bracket. The metal body of these bushings follows the lines of the front suspension assembly and the empty holes go towards the center of the assembly, or engine. Look at picture for reference
Keith

[opelspyder]

Sorry about the dark pictures from last post, all the gloss black is getting to be monochromatic on this assembly and it is hard to see. Also great care is being taken not to scratch the assembly up as well. Be sure that your lower A-Arms are on the correct side in reference to your front crossmember. The half circle steering stops point toward the front of the car or on the steering side of the crossmember (whatever side your rack mounts to). Also remember when intalling your spindles that the calipers mount towards the rear. So once all the parts are installed, this is when I look all over the assembly and be sure that all my bolts have been tightened and have some antisieze on them for future removal. Torque to proper specs, and I went ahead and installed the new shocks why I had the spring compressed. This is where I did all touch ups as well (hey I'm not perfect either) Here is the completed assembly. Later this week we will be installing the brake parts and rack. Will aslo finish up some of the last chassis powdercoating
Keith

[opelspyder]

Here is the last of the larger stuff to be powder coated. I still have little items such as engine bay accessories. I am hoping to have the complete drivetrain pretty much done by March. I still have the torque tube and rear end stuff. Also I will be assembling the engine and tranny together with new clutch kit and all. This will leave my basically new rear end waiting for the body, new front end, fuel system and engine/tranny assembly with cooling system, all powdercoated and painted and ready to go.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Here is the rack installed with new bushings and boots. Helps break up the black on the front end. Still waiting for the inner tie rods before final assembly can be made.
Keith

[opelspyder]

I got a chance to mount the backing plates and rotors with calipers. Went pretty smooth, all looks good, just need to get new metal lines for the calipers and can finish buttoning up the brakes foir the front. Retained the new brake hoses, and will put in new bleeders, may look at speedi-bleeders. There has been lots of positive comments from customers coming by the shop seeing these parts put together, even overkill!!!! Thats the response I was looking for . Anyways, I will begine assembling the torque tube and when I get the rear end I will finish it up as well. Before I get ready to run this suspension, I am going to take 10 minutes to retorque and make sure I tightened every bolt to this suspension. You can never be too sure of yourself, especially when you get interupted or start back on these mini projects a few days later. I suggest you do the same as well.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Okay, grab a couple beers here, cause this one always gets me. Rebuilding the torque tube is actually simple, but you always have to fight it to get the bushings to fit. I ordered the heavy duty bushings which really make it a chore. I actually hate the upper bushings they give you-they are polyurethane and they do not give any. I ended up using the original upper and lower dampner bushings as these were in good shape, and I didn't want to fight the poly bushings. Its almost impossible to get those bushings into place right. The main support bushings they give you are great, the torque tube donut is tough, but high quality. I ended up do a reverse thing as shown in the pictures, install the center support bearing in the donut first!!!!! Then install the donut into the housing. Then you can run the mainshaft into the tube. Anyways I was used to NOS center support bearings, but then when I looked in my new parts, it was just a sealed bearing Well then the directions said to put the original support bearing in a vise and gently pry the shell halves apart-and reuse these parts. So I used two sockets that would fit inside the bearing shells and hold the bearing tight-not the shells. Then I simply tapped them apart and tada!!! Anyways you can see the shells apart in the pictures-and they go right back together with the same parts. I would rate this at a 5 just because I hate wrestling these torque tubes-I must say though the coating was pretty strong-cause I was a little rough on this part-and it didn't leave any notable scratches
Keith
You can

[opelspyder]

Okay, I built a stand for the engine to support it while doing final assembly of the engine/tranny. I basically built this to support both of them for reinstallation. Oh by the way the stand is bare and very basic, and in no way am I trying to promote it. In fact I left it rusty so people do not think it is part of the car.