PROJECT - Restoration of 1972 Opel GT Download

[opelspyder]

Here is the clutch/flywheel install. I installed a new rear main seal here, lubed new pinion bearing. Before I installed the freshly machined flywheel I ran a tap in all holes prior to assembly. I also paint the timing mark on the back side with a white strip to easily locate it for future timing reference. Makes it easy to see down where it is dark after installed in the car. I installed the flywheel and used the best clutch alignment tool on the market (an old front tranny shaft-I've found no better) Then I torqued all bolts to the correct specs. NOTE, the service manual is incorrect on the torque for the clutch plate bolts. After I finished I reinstalled clutch arm in the housing and the tranny is ready to install...pictures tomorrow or Monday on that. Also the new clutch disc is marked which way it points so you will know.

[opelspyder]

Here are pictures of the engine tranny assembly on the stand about ready to install, I still have to install a couple brackets. I installed the starter, distributor, lifters and fuel pump, I did prime the engine with a special made shaft in the shape of a distributor shaft and then spun it with a drill until I could see oil come out of each lifter.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Almost finished with rear end, here it is with cover installed and all powdercoated
Keith

[opelspyder]

Okay, body is back with several surprises. There were a lot of previous patches used and covered up. We have our work cut out for us on this one, but I can't wait to start repairing the metal. This goes to show that one might have been in paint for years, but the sandblaster tells all and this is one of those instances.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Here are some more pics

[newman27]

My wife and I made the drive from Atlanta, GA to Cookeville, TN Saturday morning for our first visit to see progress on the Opel GT restoration. Here is our “trip report" as a series of short posts with pictures (following in-person visits is the only time I will post to the PROJECT thread).

We arrived after about 4 ½ hours on the road (some of that time spent with the top down on the Solstice ). Keith was out front of Mid-Southern Restoration (MSR) waiting for us and we were joined by Harold (hrcollinsjr) and Art (one of the shop owners and the person that will be doing the paint job, among others things).

Keith had everything laid out just as it would be if installed on the car: Front end, then engine and transmission, and then the rear end. We went over all of the steps taken to get to this point and reviewed several other parts that are finished but still loose (e.g., the master cylinder). We also looked over parts that still need some work and decisions made on how to proceed (e.g., the steering column and Weber carb). Everything looked amazing with many restored parts looking like they just came off the stock shelf.

Continued...

[newman27]

Next, we went to the back of the shop to see the sand blasted and primed body shell which is still on the rotisserie. We spent a lot of time here talking over what was found lurking under the paint and bondo as well as the good and bad aspects of the body’s current state. I think the general consensus was that the sections of the body that aren’t rusted are actually pretty straight and relatively dent free. Art discussed some things we can do with the underbody to make it sound and protected (and still look good) but that will also enable us to save a little on the budget. This will free up some money to spend on the visible parts of the car without compromising the car’s overall safety and reliability. You’ll see more on that as Keith get’s into the metalwork. We also looked over the hood and doors at this point all of which looked good. Harold was also a wealth of info on the car as we looked things over.

[newman27]

Next, we went to the loft area in the shop where all of the OGTS parts are stored waiting for installation on the car (e.g., carpeting, headliner, trim, rubber window seals, etc.) Also, all of the powder coated parts not yet ready for install were shelved here wrapped in paper and taped up for protection. Everything was clearly labeled and organized which a neat-freak like me really appreciates!

Next, we went over the in-car entertainment components I brought with me (in my nice new Opel duffel bag) for later installation. I purchased all of these components from Best Buy’s car audio shop. Not to jump ahead of ourselves here, but the car will have an in-dash AM/FM radio with CD player, MP3 / iPod input jack, and XM Satellite Radio receiver. A 580 watt amp will also be installed in the car initially driving two 6" x 9" speakers. The amp will provide the flexibility to later add a sub-woofer and additional speakers if desired. Music is important to me (I never drive without it) and so a good sound system upgrade was mandatory.

Finally, it was time for a little driving fun. I went for a spin in Keith’s blue Opel GT which was awesome - Keith pushed the car hard . We also got to ride in a 1955 Jaguar and a Camaro that were parked out front when we arrived. We ended the day by having dinner with Keith and his wife which was great and Keith even gave us some “parting gifts” (Opel GT model and three CDs full of the hi-res pictures he has taken thus far).

Our next in-person visit is scheduled for June. Until then, I would like to thank Keith and Art for a wonderful review of the project (and Harold for joining us) and I'll turn the thread back over to Keith...

[opelspyder]

I began work on the front of the GT today, the belly pan had been replaced before, and was easy to remove. I widdled away at the front to remove the lower headlight buckets. Looks like the metal on the outer frame rails to the outmost front will be replaced and then I will continue out from there. Wasn't too bad to clean all this out. Any one have any NOS inner front panels they want to sell or inner fender pieces let me know by posting on the comments thread. We could use some but if not I will hand make this stuff or rebuild the old pieces for the most part. Here are the pics

[opelspyder]

Here are a few more pictures
Keith

[opelspyder]

Here are pics of the front frame rails -outer panels removed due to rust, then sandblasted inside and primed with a weld through primer from 3M. The I spotted in some new panels and roughed in the drivers side. I still have more welding to do to dyno this part in, thats why the seam is rough-plus a panel welds over this seam and then seam sealer will be applied.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Before the lower headlight buckets can be welded in the outer lips of the front end has to be reworked, because it all gets welded to the bucket. So I am trying to get everything taken care of (rust wise) before I weld it back in. When I do this, I actually get several small pieces to remake the lip and some of the body part as well. I find if I do several small pieces, yes it takes longer, but the factory lines remain unchanged. If I tried this with one piece, it actually would take longer and cause more frustration. Also I from time to time refit the original marker light just to make sure I am not actually getting off track or my metal is warping. The last picture shows the other side and you can see what I had to do on this passenger side. I am trying to do only one side at a time as well
Keith

[opelspyder]

Been a little while since posts, so here they are. I really began working on the passenger side, so that is mainly what you will see in these pics. Since there is not any metal available for these cars, I have been "rebuilding the existing metal the best I can. A lot of this will never be seen, so not much detail is being used to cherry these parts out, but they will be all metal and solid. I began work on the lower headlight bucket panel. I added metal around the entire edge, then mated up to where it would be on the car and then drew a line to cut off the cirular area of the part. I leave some of the original edge so I know where to go to when lining back up. On the underside of this part I coated it with an epoxy that is basically a patching compound made by ManTek. This is an industrial product and won't be available at an auto parts store. I coated it up to the spot weld areas. This is sandable and I have smoothed it up since the pictures

[opelspyder]

These pictures are of the inner bucket pieces being replaced. Kind of hard to see what is going on here, but basically the buttweld seam for the inner fender panel was remade, and rust was cut out and replaced with new metal. Looks like the inner fender goes in before the lower bucket does to get everything lined up correctly. I will sandblast in here before I weld the panels in permanently, I will also reprime to protect these areas that paint cannot get into as well.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Here are some more of the headlight bucket and then the inner fender panel from a donor car. I still had to do some rust repair to it as well, but you can see the before and after. I used what rubber pieces I could find to make the seals, but these are not available either so you have to be creative here
Keith

[opelspyder]

Finalized a few things to go ahead with welding in the passenger headlight bucket parts. Lined up pretty good considering all the refabed parts. I still have some places to weld once I remove the front rotisserie brackets. Once this area is fully seam sealed like the factory had, I will be happier with the finished product. I tend to be critical on the way metal work looks like before it if finished, so keep that in mind that all seams will be covered as well. We use a LORD brand seam sealer that GM recommends now for all of its repairs. Pretty strong stuff, they actually bond quarters on now with another one of there products in the Fusor line. The brackets to this lined up pretty well so for the most part I am pleased.
Keith

[opelspyder]

In order to weld in the front inner fenders I have to correct some problems on the front part of the fenders. One picture is in an earlier post, but here are before and afters, This repair is fresh and note: it still needs work...but if you want to give me hell about any of these repairs, feel free in the comments section
Keith

[opelspyder]

Here are the pictures of the driver's side inner fender area before the front panel goes back in. I still have some finishing metal work to do here. I guess I know why Opel used so much seam sealer in these engine bay areas....to cover up the gaps and ugliness????? Probably will go back with quite a bit of sealer as well. The last picture is the before again.
Keith

[opelspyder]

I have had the front end finished for the most part. Redrill holes for the hood hindge and clean welds for the battery tray. Everything has been seam sealed like factory (which wasn't that pretty back then, but with the new sealers they make now, I feel confident it will protect it for years to come.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Here is the structure reinforcements for rocker removal and such.
Other shop pics as well
Keith

[opelspyder]

I have removed the outer Rocker Box material and worked my way in. GT JIM, thanks for the pictures of your metal work in the front support area on your picture list, it has been helpful. I had to start rebuilding the area that the engine cradle attaches as the nuts were rusted up. I repositioned the engine cradle for hole markings so I can make sure they are in the correct place during reassembly. Here are the pics
Keith

[opelspyder]

I pretty much have the passenger front inner fender area roughed in and I feel it came out pretty good. I posted a before pic of this area first and then you can see the after. I will be working my way back from here. These areas will be replaced on the driver's side as well, except the floor will be replaced on that side.
Keith

[opelspyder]

I have been focused on the inner front passenger fender to the rear wheel well now for a week and it really has come together. I did replace the inner span of metal with a new piece and "no" I didn't form the curvey bead down inner panel as I figured thicker was better anyways. I kept moving along yesterday and really got smoking on the finished areas. I went from the start of the rear wheel well lip and finished with all new metal to the front fender lip!!! Looks better than the pictures can really show.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Well I Really got carried away here...well not really, the rust got carried away. When I say you have to cut it out, I mean it. This is an example. I left some pieces that will get cut out in later stages, but need to remain just for line up purposes.

[opelspyder]

I could have spend hours patching this floor to keep it perfectly correct, or I could replace it with a new solid piece that is very similar. I chose the 2nd option, and used a bead roller to form a similar pattern to match up. I still will cut holes for the body grommets and it is looking good so far. At a good look, it appears like how it came. I will contineue working on inner fender parts, and the rear floor area, before I can install a newly made rocker. I still have some welds to clean up and more metal to install, so don't think this is the finished product
Keith