PROJECT - Restoration of 1972 Opel GT Download

[newman27]

<The first of three posts on the ADDCO anti-sway-bar install is on the prior page and includes links to the ADDCO web site>

We installed the rear anti-sway-bar first. The ADDCO rear anti-sway-bar (5/8” diameter, stock number 902) came with directions marked as Revision 1 dated January 17, 2000. The first step was to find the pre-drilled factory holes in the frame, which were present but covered over in primer and paint. Once these holes were revealed, we attached the brackets to the frame. Next, we assembled the end-link with spacers and lined these up to locate the holes we had to drill in the spring support. Once the holes were drilled and everything loosely attached, we tightened everything up.

A few notes to keep in mind:

• The illustration included in the directions indicates that the anti-sway-bar “bend” is to run under the drive shaft. However, we ran the anti-sway-bar bend above the torque tube, as it would not clear the other way.
• Make sure you run the bolt for the bracket that attaches the end-link to the spring support such that the head is on the inside of the spring support with the bolt shaft sticking out. Tighten the lock nut on this bolt and then cut the excess off with a hack saw so that the end-link bolt and spacers will clear. You don’t want this bolt sticking into the spring support area.
• When lining up the end-link location for mounting, jack up the frame of the car with the wheels still on your ramps. By expanding the springs, you are allowing for travel in the suspension with the anti-sway-bar in place.

Matt

[newman27]

We installed the front anti-sway-bar second. The ADDCO front anti-sway-bar (3/4” diameter, stock number 140) came with directions marked as Revision 1 dated January 17, 2000 (same as the rear). The front anti-sway-bar install was slightly easier than the rear. We started by checking the bolting pattern for the end-links. Next, we located and marked the spots on the frame where we would have to drill to run the U-bolts. We checked the U-bolt alignment and then passed them through the frame so that the threaded ends protruded outward. We then attached the brackets to the frame. Next, we lined everything up to find the right spot to drill mounting holes in the A-arms. Finally, we mounted the anti-sway-bar end-links to the A-arms to complete the installtion.

Just one thing to note here:

• The directions say to drill 3/8” holes in the frame to pass the U-bolts through. We had to drill 1/2" holes in order to be able to pass the U-bolts through.

Matt

[newman27]

I had the latest upgrade to my car installed at Kauffman Tire yesterday in the form of some classic looking Cooper Cobra Radial G/T tires (205/60R13). These tires replace the Blue Streak 185/70R13 tires that I had on the car. The additional 20mm in width further improves traction (tested thoroughly on the way home) while shedding just 6.5mm in sidewall height. Combined with the anti-sway-bars, I can really take the corners now! Finally, I think the white raised lettering will give the car a little "meaner" look when it's hob-knobing with muscle cars at the next car show. I want to thank Gene for the suggestion and for helping out by tracking down four of these tires through Kauffman Tire. Gene even took my old set of tires off my hands .

Matt

[newman27]

Today marks one year since the Tennessee Dyno Days 2007 meet where I picked up my GT so I have to mark it with a post back to the PROJECT thread here...

The past year has been a BLAST!!! I managed to put ~6,600 miles on the car for an average of 550 miles per month (50 miles more per month than I had estimated). The odometer sits at 98,683. The longest trip taken was to the Nationals in Charlotte which was 534 miles round trip averaging 27.23 MPG. It looks like with my heavy foot I get about 19 - 20 MPG around town and have gotten as high as 36.76 MPG on the highway. My top unverified speed reached so far is 108 MPH on the way back from Nationals and the car had plenty more to give.

I've been keeping a very detailed journal on the GT and that has helped tremendously as far as being able to go back and check what has been done and also plan things I want to do. Basically, the only significant issues over the past year have been with parts not replaced as new at the time of restoration (fuel pump and water pump being the two primary parts that failed both of which were used). An inner tie-rod also failed. Replacing those and also upgrading a few things here and there has really taught me a lot about the car and I feel a little more self reliant now.

That said, I still have to ask for help and so I want to thank Keith Lundholm for taking all my calls and helping out with phone support. He even made a house call to Atlanta a couple months after I picked up the car to help tweak a few things! You did a great job Keith! I also want to thank the Georgia Opelers for some great times over the past year! I especially want to thank Gene Smith and John Lewis for helping me out locally again with questions and ideas for changes. John also helped me swap out that inner tie-rod that went bad and ran a bunch of diagnostics on my car to tweak the tuning now that the engine is broken in. The car is running better and stronger than I ever even imagined possible! Thanks guys!

Anyway, it has been a very good year and so here's looking forward to the next year!

Matt