COMMENTS - 72 GT Resto Thread

[ben]

so what was the total cost

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by ben so what was the total cost

There won't be a total cost until the car is totalled. As far as the current investment in his gem, I believe the cost is classified.

Aside from my smarta$$ comments you might notice at the bottom of Matt's signature are links to the restoration thread, this one, and the comments thread, where the last three posts should have been made. I would ask that a moderator move your posts to the correct thread and delete mine.

Thanks,
Harold

P.S. Jeff, nice to see you're still looking. Patience, the right car will come along.

[Sparky73]

Originally Posted by jvandyke Glad to see you're enjoying it. I miss mine. There's a '73 on Craigslist near me (Holland, MI) but he wants 10,000 or is that a typo? Hmmmm

Here is one is Kentwood as well for only 7200. Sounds like a little better deal =) lol

Opel GT

[Viny Charb]

Well I've decided to start doing the major body steel work on my opel for this winter. I basically need something to keep my mind off of life's little stresses, and I was fed up at looking at the rough looking bondo and fiberglass job that was done 25 years ago to my car. I've been checking out all the work that keith had done and I was happy to see that my car has very similar rust problems as the orange opel......My goal is not do do a full restoration but to start doing some major freshening up of the body and replacing some rubbers , odds and ends that are badly worn out. Engine, trany, clutch and rear end tho stock and original all work fine so I won't touch them. I'm only planning on painting the bottom half of the car and hopefully driving it by next summer. This should be good enough to get me a few more years of enjoyment before I would have to spend 15 000$ and two to three years on the REAL restoration and Final paint Job. I mite post some pics but really it would look like old news because we've already seen the same rust damage on other threads . All this to say that I'm very lucky and appreciative of this restoration thread and the time keith took to make it for all of us to learn off of. Thank you very much!!!

[newman27]

Originally Posted by Viny Charb Well I've decided to start doing the major body steel work on my opel for this winter. I basically need something to keep my mind off of life's little stresses, and I was fed up at looking at the rough looking bondo and fiberglass job that was done 25 years ago to my car. I've been checking out all the work that keith had done and I was happy to see that my car has very similar rust problems as the orange opel...

Keith had to do a lot of metal work on my car - it was badly rusted. Through the whole restoration, I kept emphasizing that having a sound, rust-free body was my highest priority and he delivered on that. Mechanical parts can be fixed / upgraded as time and money allows but you need a sound body to attach everything to. Best wishes on your project!

Matt

[Gary]

Just a comment on this thread;

When we upgrade the site, Project/comments threads like this will no longer be needed. The Logbook (Blog) feature will be in an article format and feature a space for the "project" with "comments" added below.

[Phoenix]

Better Brakes
Five-Speed Transmission
Lowering Springs
105amp Alternator

-What'd you have in mind as far as brakes go? Just about anything will require larger wheels. I've done the 75s and was unimpressed plus I had a rotor warp in less than a couple of months.

-I'd start collecting the pieces now to do the 5 speed swap, mainly the driveshaft.

-The 105 is probably the cheapest and easiest mod on your list.

[newman27]

Originally Posted by Phoenix Better Brakes Five-Speed Transmission Lowering Springs 105amp Alternator -What'd you have in mind as far as brakes go? Just about anything will require larger wheels. I've done the 75s and was unimpressed plus I had a rotor warp in less than a couple of months. -I'd start collecting the pieces now to do the 5 speed swap, mainly the driveshaft. -The 105 is probably the cheapest and easiest mod on your list.

With the brakes it would have to be something that doesn't require changing the wheels - I like the stock wheels I have. My goal of course is to reduce stopping distance. Maybe the answer is just better pads, etc. using the existing set-up. All these items have to wait until 2010 so I'll have some time to do research. Good to know about the 75s - thanks!

[Viny Charb]

Well after a bunch of work removing 25 year old fiber glass and bondo from my car I've realized that the rust goes far beyond just my body panels but into the panels behind them. After my conversation with the good boys at OpelGTSource , I've realized that my body mite be beyond repair!!!! Truly a sad day for my little 37 year old survivor. My budy's bringing me his sandblaster for the weekend and we'll see the extent of the damage but right now it doesn't look to good.

[MonkeyNutZ]

Wouldn't a 105amp alternator just peak the ammeter the whole time?

[wrench459]

Originally Posted by MonkeyNutZ Wouldn't a 105amp alternator just peak the ammeter the whole time?

If there was a current demand of 105 amps it would.
BTW I've seen the 105 units put out 130 amps under full load.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by newman27 Now that I have had a chance to drive the car some, I have found that I need to check the electric choke operation, carburetor jetting, and possibly tweak the mixture / idle screws. I experienced some stalling / hesitation from a cold start. Once the car warmed up everything was great and the "seat of the pants" test still indicates some extra power out on the highway at speed. This Sprint manifold was treated with a heat shielding coating and that may be affecting the current "tune" as the under hood heat dynamics have changed. Matt

The carb heat should be reduced some because the exhaust and intake are no longer bolted together underneath the plenum of the intake. A small reduction in heat radiated from the exhaust manifold because of the thermal barrier coating and yes, you'll probably need to "tune" it a little.

Harold

[guyopel]

I have been running a 105 amp. Alt. for 3 years now and have never had the amp. gauge " peg " HTH
John
I have been using the 75 front brakes with good pads and rear brake shoes w/3/4 w/cyls . on my 1970 GT and have
not had any braking concerns with stopping and I am using 13in. wheels HTH

[wrench459]

Originally Posted by guyopel I have been running a 105 amp. Alt. for 3 years now and have never had the amp. gauge " peg " HTH

I'm from the show me state. I love to play around with this kind of stuff.
I can bring a vat-40 to the next meet and load the alt. really hard...I'm always learning.