Project: Restoration of GT Series-2

[opelspyder]

This week I moved forward on the side skirts as I have fitted the passenger side.* I am also getting the belly pan ready to install, so I can attach the front air dam also.* I file fitted the skirt on where I felt it fit the best-instead of cutting away quite a bit as I originally planned.* Looking at them in any way has made me deside that in order to do them, and blend them, one is going to have to use a large amount of autobody filler.* I am choosing the Dynaglass, which is a fiberglass reinforced filler.* We usually melt out the lead and use this instead as it will last longer-the lead will eventually lift.* I started by using screws on the inside flange that went into the rocker.* By doing this it will help hold on the kit, the screws will not penetrate the inner floorboard panels, and it makes life a lot easier.* After I have laid out the screws in a couple places, I take a body panel adhesive.* A note on these adhesives:* They come in all sorts of platforms from fast to slow dry and set, fiberglass to metal, metal to metal, you name it.* I of course chose a medium set fiberglass/SDM to Metal adhesive by SEM. Usually I use a Fusor product, but these have been a little user friendly compared to them, note the guns run about 60-70 dollars though.* These adhesives have now become the replacement for welding in large autobody shops as they are crash tested, and you have the ability to glue on an entire rear quarter if you must on a newer car.* I apply it on all the mounting surfaces, even some that may or may not make contact, and then I clamp the piece and run my self tapping screws back in to hold it.* Be easy on the clamps-or you will crack the fibre panels.* I let it set up overnight and checked it today, and it set up great, I am now ready to blend this one in with filler.* I will rough up the surface before appling filler to make sure it bites.* Also notice I ground the body down to bare metal and left it pretty rough, this is to make sure I have a good bond.* Always make sure you have bare metal before appling fillers alsoKeith

[opelspyder]

I have the side skirts roughed in for now. I wanted to get this part done to my liking first, then work on the other fiberglass parts. I desided that the body kit would be the main part of the work, so I tackled it first. I am now reworking the belly pan and have it ready for primer. It has to be painted on the inside and then installed, just to install the front air dam. This week I hope to have the inside in paint. I spent about a full day removing the original paint, and some of a repaint. The back end had a lot of body filler-after digging it out-I relized that cutting the panel around the gas filler would be necessary to make it right, and to put back the least amount of body filler when prepping. This will be done at a later point. Here are some pics
Keith

[opelspyder]

I sanded down the paint to make sure when I apply an auto body filler-I have bare metal!!!! This is important. In previous post I included pics of the driver's side going on too, forgot about that. The last picture I do not believe I previously posted, but it is of the front air dam taped into place to get the visual of what it will look like
Keith

[opelspyder]

As requested, I am posting a little bit about the belly pan. Although not perfect, most of this will be covered by the front air dam. I have retained the holes for the middle grille-as they want you to retain this to protect the radiator from debris. I guess if you ever want to remove the grille-you're S.O.L. I began with bare metal-patched a few rust spots, and then did some body filler work, until I felt it would be roughed in enough to look good and straight. I did spend a lot of time here-but I wasn't too concerned about ripples or little imperfections. Once this is in place-it is tough to see all of it- so I run with it. I then use an epoxy primer to seal the bare metal and the filler. PPG DP Series will work, or you can use a more affordable primer such as Nason brand. After I allow it to dry-I scuff it with a red scotch bright pad. I then go ahead and re-prime it with a medium build primer. Here are some so-so action shots of that. I will then wet sand this stage to smooth out from initial coarse sanding...that to come later this week.
Keith

[opelspyder]

In the post above, I show when peeling back the tape on the outer edge of the panel-it is bare metal still. I am leaving this so I can spot weld it back on the car. I will then do my refinish work on the outside that isn't covered by the air dam. Also here are pics of the back after I chiseled out a gallon of bondo.
Keith

[opelspyder]

Today I was going to wet sand the inner part of the belly pan and then recoat with primer again, but desided to dry sand it. When I work down the body filler, I use a pretty coarse grit sand paper-useally 36-40 to work the filler flat. Yes-this causes deep sanding scratches. I use a medium to high build primer for the first step after to fill scratches and seal surface. I then wet/or dry sand the surface with a less coarse material-such as 180-220 grit paper. You will see right off what is still high and low, and where the deeper scratches are. Don't sand too much, as the next coat of primer will fill the rest of the scratches. Please note primer is not body filler-but they do make a spray filler. You must use a gun tip that is very large. I have a 2.3 tip on my primer gun for high build spray fillers such as those.
Keith
Pict one sanded with 220, pic 2 reprimed

[opelspyder]

I am about ready to paint the inner beely pan. I still tend to prime, and prime again until it is right. After I dry sand with 220, I reprimed-with a pretty thick coat. I then sanded it again with 220 to work out any lines, and then dropped down to 400 grit wet or dry and wet sanded. After I finished that- I put a super thin coat of primer and wetsanded with 600grit. Any finer than that-the paint will not have enough surface to bite to. Many may choose to use a sealer at this point, because I chose the buff color primer-I will not use a sealer, as it will not affect the topcoat color. Now for some paint gun info. I use several guns-now, but began with a beginer set from Devilbiss. The 1st paint gun picture shows a range of the guns I use. The first (which I never used until today) is a Sata Jet 3000, the next one is a Titan brand HVLP, and the next two are devilbiss paint guns. The difference between gun 1 and 2-about is about $400.00. Also they spray entirely different. I'm not saying go out and spend 500 dollars on a new paint gun and you can do it all. I used the devilbiss guns for quite a while to learn with for $100.00 the set. And you can get equal results with both. I do not recommend the plastic cup models though-get the aluminum cups-as the plastic holds paint and primer in the cup lid threads-and then seals it tight. The gun number 2 is a Titan I special ordered from most any parts store. I actually bought two, a 2.0 tip and a 2.3 tip strickly for primers.

A good air system is a great idea. I have an Ingersol Rand 80 Gallon compressor with IR smart pipe system to plumb the shop (basically a quick disconnect piping system for shops. I still need to invest in a desicant system... Sparky on this site has chosen a nice Devillbiss model that I would recommend as well.

[opelspyder]

I applied the first coat of base-and needed to tweak my gun-as I threw some sags-not in areas shown, so I waited and lightly scuffed once the first base was dry, then continued. I always tack cloth between to get rid of dust and debris. The coats spread smoothly over the pan, and the clear went great as well. The Sata really atomizes the paint excellent, and it is super easy to clean out-definitely time saving. I then let it dry for a day and installed it on the car.

[opelspyder]

I am setting the air dam on the belly pan now to finally see how it should set on the body. Not as easy to mount as I thought, as the top center does not touch much of the air dam surface. I haven't desided yet, but will probably add some type of thin aluminum angle or flat stock under the front ridge, so I then have contact all around the lower bumper lip. I placed the bumper just to look at it, I still have to cut out for the corner bumper mounts. It will be important that I use these as the front bracket is eliminated on this air dam. Right off I got it to fit half way descent, I still have not mended the outer edges of the belly pan to the body-and I will need a little more work there, before bonding this on. I used tek screws to hold the outer perimeter on as well. Once bonded these will be removed-and the holes will be bonded shut. I really like this panel adhesive-excellent stuff. I glued the under belly lip on by the way. I will seam seal this, and touch up with body color and clear with a brush more than likely. So it will look factory for most part. Here are some pics
Keith

[opelspyder]

I am waiting for a couple items before I secure the front air dam. I decided to make a center grille as to use and original, reason being you can see the inner fiberglass behind the 4 driving light spots, and once in the grille cannot come out. They recommend having a grille though due to road debris. Anyways until I get some extra bumper brackets, I started on the rear tail flares. I noticed the quality control of these is not that great-as one is about 1 inch longer on the flare. I did like I have on the others. Placed it up on the panel-decided the best overall position where for the most part the mounting flanges meet the body. Ground to bare metal, and trimmed to fit if needed. Sometimes I trim to fit after it is glued in so I can manipulate the fiber panel a little bit. Easier on the car to me. Again I use self tapping screws. Please note these are to only hold the panel in position, then remove to put adhesive to surfaces, and then screwed back onto the body in same location. I also use clamps for the other mounting areas. The screws will be removed, and adhesive will be used it fill those holes. This epoxy is really good stuff, and the more I use it, the more I want to go fixing other things around the house. The customer requested I keep the rear side markers, so you can see where I drew it out, and then decided to cut it at. This will make it where I can blend to the body and retain the light
Keith

[opelspyder]

Okay, I decided agains using an original grille for two reasons. 1. It cannot be taken out once in, and the inside of the fiberglass would really show. 2. Harold Collins was getting thrifty on me when I found a good grille off a parts car. So I went down to a hardware store to get a piece of expanded metal to make a grille in the air dam itself. On the way to the project center metal, I passed some paint roller strainers. Well with no expanded metal, I went with the strainers which are basically the same. I used my famous adhesive to glue it in the center opening of the air dam. A little bodywork later and it will look nice. I have trimmed, and cut to stress relieve this, and fitted my bumper. Once this dries, I will test bumper again. I may have to do some major slicing on this to narrow it out a little, as it still seems too wide at the outer edges...I don't like it. Here are the pics of it drying on.
Keith

[opelspyder]

I hope you can see in the previous posts, that the front air dam sticks out on both sides quite a bit. Although when blended in, this may look fine, but it bothers me, I want the sides to go straight up and blend with the lines of the body, so I basically have to figure a way to pull the outer lips inward. To do this I have to make relief cuts, and basically cut out a long narrow pie-shape out of the inside of the fender. What I like about this fiberglass, is I can work it quite easily and then rebond. If I mess up, just cut again and rebond where I want it. I used wide mouth welding clamps on the inside of the air dam to hold it in the position I wanted it, then using the piece I cut out, I bonded it on the inside, and then filled the seam with adhesive as best as I could. The adhese can get messy, but is super strong and easy to work with. One day and it is set rock hard. I have gone back and sanded off the drips and runs from the glue, and will post some pics of that on the next post. You can see three lines of glue on each side. These are relief cuts, I just want to prevent the fiberglass from wanting to crack when I pull it inward. See if you can see a difference in the sides now compared to before, May have only gone in an inch, but doesn't look like it is sticking out to me anymore, or at least as bad. Also tried to take some overall of the one side to get a visual of the whole kit, sorry they are not that great.
Keith

[opelspyder]

As bad as I hate it, I had to do some metal work on 95 degree days in the shop. This makes everything miserable to work on, usually due to the fact I have to wear more protective clothing that does not breath well. Here is a little how to on this part, or some tips on how I do it, not how it has to be done. I layed out a section I wanted to replace, in our case it was the entire rear filler panel and a bit of the driver's rear quarter top. I got a piece from Harold Collins and worked with what I got. Fairly straight piece, just some surface rust I had to deal with. Left pitting after sandblasting, but solid enough to work....beggars can't be choosers. I then rough cut the panel on the car off, leaving way more than needed, as I will trim to fit. On the passenger side rear the panel and the upper quarter meets at a seam, that was filled with sealer from the factory. After I cut the panel off, I have access to one side of the flange I can remove spotwelds from. Also the lower rear window flange has spot welds. They are sometimes tough to see, and I prefer to grind them out that drill if possible with a die grinder. I use panel separation blades to get under the lip of the old panel to find where the spotwelds are laid out at. I then grind them one at a time. In the pics you can see I rough cut the panel out, the panel separators, and a separater at work under the panel lip.

[opelspyder]

After I have removed all old metal that will interfere with new panel replacement, I begin to prep the new panel...which is basically the same thing I just did on this car, but separating the metal from the opposite sides of the new panel to mate up. I call it cleaning up all three sides to fit like it was a NOS piece of metal ready to go on. I also sandblast and sand the old finish off the new piece. I spend the most of my time now fitting the piece onto the car. I make sure my upper corners fit, by trimming and sculpting sometimes. I will clamp into place many times, and then trace the panel on the drivers side so I can judge where to cut. I still undercut this a little to try to get the smallest gap between the panels. I could put a flange on the car metal to make a lap weld, but I prefer the buttweld, just keep trimming to fit. I did not attach the flare on this side yet knowing I may need to remove it out of the way for metal work. I used the rear marker light as a line up judge as well. I use a MIG welder to make my welds, but you can use several methods to secure the panel on. I jump around a lot on the seam to help prevent distortion from heat. I even keep a air blow gun to cool it off. I still tend to get some wave, that will be hammered out. The main goal here on this part was to limit the amount of body filler needed to finish off the panel. It would have taken a gallon of filler if not more, and I just cannot do that. Skim coat-not a problem.