My 70 GT resto project

[wlkelley3]

I've been working on the restoration of my 70 Opel GT for a while now. Have completed the paint and body work. Done in base coat/clear of original white. just completed the custom interior. A friend that does car interiors for a hobby taught me how to do interiors using my car. The original red was just to RED for me so I toned it down with some black. The new interior is now installed and can be seen in my "members photos" section of this site. Now I have to reinstall the engine/trans and the glass. Then work on the "gotcha's" that always come up when I'm working on getting it running. I am anticipating that part may be the most time consuming.

[jvandyke]

Looks great. I like the red and black mix although to me it's even "louder" having that contrast then straight red but I like it that way.

[hrcollinsjr]

Wendell, glad to see all that hard work is paying off. Hope to see it in person sometime. If you run short on anything I can help you with, just !

Harold

[wlkelley3]

The pictures make it look more bright red than it really is. Must have been the flash that made it brighter. It's as close to the original red that was used new. The dash cover is an opelgtsource cover and I used it to match the vinyl used in the rest of the interior. Used red stitching on throughout the interior, even on the black. I wanted to stay with the red theme since that's what the car originally had but wanted to personalize it somewhat. The car was originally white w/red so that's what I stayed with. Brought a white piece to the paint store and they color matched it in base coat/clear and ordered the Opel GT Source dash cover in original red to use as a base to match the rest of the interior too. Learned a lot about interiors doing this project. I sewed about half of the interior while my friend/teacher sewed the more critical detailed stuff. You may notice that there are pieces covered in vinyl that's not usually covered, like the console around the e-brake. Mine was pretty weel scratched up and I couldn't find a red one in decent shape so we covered in red w/black insides and it has a black tray to hide the mount screws. The PO had a piece of paneling on center of the shifter console. We cut out a new one and covered it in black w/red stitching.

Already have the next project sitting beside the GT in the garage and will get to practice my sewing on it also although there is less to sew, it's a ragtop. Will also get to learn welding as it requires a little welding replacing the A-pillars (rust on lower edge) and rocker panels (rust on outer front). Although admittedly it's not an Opel, just couldn't pass up a restorable car for $50 dollars. It's a 1963 MG Midget. (gasp)

[wlkelley3]

Oh yeah. Harold, I'm sure you probably have heard but John is looking for a set of motor mounts for his Manta. Do you happen to know where he can find a set?

Wendell

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by wlkelley3 Oh yeah. Harold, I'm sure you probably have heard but John is looking for a set of motor mounts for his Manta. Do you happen to know where he can find a set? Wendell

Wendell, maybe we can get John to post an ad looking for motor mounts for his '74 Manta.

Harold

[wlkelley3]

Well, one step closer to completion. Got the engine and trans in the car today. Still need to hook everything up and install all of the ancillaries (alternator, carb, etc...) but the hard part is done. Went smoother than I anticipated, besides my daughter not listening and lowered a jack so my finger got pinched between the oil pump and the suspension crossmember (ouch! ). Had a couple of my daughter's guy friends that wrench on newer sportscars over to help, they enjoyed working on my "old school" car. Had to explain the cam-in-head to one of them as he has never heard of it before and both have never seen points distributer before either. They soaked it up and enjoyed me helping them on my car. Good kids.
Over the next week or so, I'll see what I have to put on order from OGTS and what I can get locally and start hooking everything up. Goal is to get it running first then install a Pertronix, an Otto-start (that I assembled using Otto's posted directions) and a Weber (that still needs rebuilding). Also have to call the glass installer this week to get the glass installed. Also get a picture of the engine in the car posted to my album here.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by wlkelley3 Also have to call the glass installer this week to get the glass installed.

???? shouldn't that be, ahh, wlkelley3?

By the way you have an Opel neighbor in Madison who posted to the ClassicOpel site recently.

Harold

[wlkelley3]

Since the recovered dash fits pretty close to the window seal area (probably closer than it should) and I've never really done this with glass, thought I'd pay an expert that is insured incase the glass breaks and watch/assist him. He's the son of a fellow car club member here locally and got to keep the economy rolling. I've only down pexiglass aircraft window or metal framed windows.

Yeah, I know Gary Francis. He used to live down the street from me. He still owns the house but now his son lives there. Haven't seen or talked with him in a while though. His Manta is kinda one-owner car. His father owned it first and it's been in the family ever since. Gary also has some project corvairs.

[bear's GT]

Hi from Birmingham,
The glass is not hard to put in. I did it for the first time on my GT. The site has some very good helps. Like Harold, I would like to see in person.

[jvandyke]

Originally Posted by wlkelley3 The pictures make it look more bright red than it really is. Must have been the flash that made it brighter. It's as close to the original red that was used new..... Already have the next project sitting beside the GT in the garage and will get to practice my sewing on it also although there is less to sew, it's a ragtop. Will also get to learn welding as it requires a little welding replacing the A-pillars (rust on lower edge) and rocker panels (rust on outer front). Although admittedly it's not an Opel, just couldn't pass up a restorable car for $50 dollars. It's a 1963 MG Midget. (gasp)

Interior looks really good, the red and black come off nice together. Awesome!
MG, I had a '75 Midget, almost bought another one instead of my GT!
I looked at a '68 with wire wheels and the guy had a pile of panels to go with it, unfortunately it needed lots of frame fixes too, too far gone for me.
Good part is the body panels are bolt-on-chassis style and you can buy new panels easy enough, so yeah, very restorable that way I guess.
Very cool little cars. I still want one.
Needs to have round rear wheel arches though, and chrome bumpers! '68 was a good year. I forget what the '65 had, 1275 motor?
Ah the good ol' days of putting oil in the carburetor.

[hrcollinsjr]

Wendell, since you're involved with the local club down there please be sure and post when the EuroBrit show will be this time. I missed it last year.

Harold

[wlkelley3]

I've put the EuroBrit car show in the calender here. It's May 31st at Dublin Park here in Madison. the website link should be on the calender for info and directions. It's an all European car show held by the local British car club, All European cars and motorcycles are invited. I'd like to see some Opel's in the show (besides mine) or any other European car. Harold, if you don't know where Dublin Park is give me a call, you have my number.

I think I'll only need the professional help on the windshield becuase of the dash now thicker than original and fitting too close to the windshield channel for the seal to fit. The other glass (rear and side) I believe I'll only need a helper. But I don't think it would cost anymore to have the pro install all the glass as opposed to just the windshield. Besides I'll be helping him anyway.

[wlkelley3]

Well, I haven't got around to updating this in a while and thought that I'd post what I've been doing to the car and it's progress. I've had to poke around this site for a few tips and schematics when hooking up the electrics. Got it done and this site was a great help. I did find that there is a slight weakness to the tech articles, nothing showing details on routing heater hoses and water choke hoses. Figured it out though (I hope). Placed an order to ogts for the hopefully last minute things, like radiator hoses, belts, exhaust gasket, air filter and the like. A friend that runs a classic European car repair shop ordered a rebuild kit for the Weber I bought a while back. Decided to use it now as the Solex needs rebuilding now. After installing the above listed items and a battery, it should be ready to crank.
Thought I had ran into another snag with finishing the GT. I have had a few snags come up over the years while rebuilding the GT. Last year it was my house AC/heater unit going out the same day as my daughter had a car accident (hit & run), totaling her car. A couple days ago while returning home from a business trip in my dd Miata, the temp gauge pegged on me and I was a-ways from a place to pull over and slowed down, turned the heater on and nursed it to the next exit, about a mile or so. Got it to a gas station and it died. Had my daughter and friend bring a trailer down and tow it home and to a shop specializing in Miata's and used parts. He looked at it and determined the water pump failed (fluid leaks/pours out) and me driving it to the next exit fried the rest of the engine (no compression at all). He getting me a used engine for it (cheaper than rebuilding). Now just need to figure out how to pay for it. And what to drive at the autocross next weekend, my daughter's RX8 or her friend's Miata. The wife wasn't too upset when I told her the water pump failed and I was at a location on the highway that I couldn't stop, it was a long way to anyplace. Oh well, there goes my bonus from work. Plus side is this will fix the crank pulley key-slot problem that caused a flashing check engine light and the replacement engine will have significantly less milage than the old one.
Still shooting to meet the deadline of our local all European car show on May 31st here in Madison, Alabama. NABMS

[wlkelley3]

Yesterday at the autocross, I co-drove my daughter's friend's 2003 Miata w/6-speed manual that's been lowered. It was different than driving my own stock 99 Miata w/5-speed manual. It was a fast, fun course. The only "gotcha" was a tight slalom into the finish. I think I only had 2 clean runs out of 6. I nailed at least one cone on 4 of the 6 runs at the slalom. One run, I nailed 2 at the slalom and brought a cone under the car through the finish line almost all the way to the paddock. Had a bit of excitement when I tried downshifting from 3rd to 2nd to slow down and his lowered car hit the bumpstops and went sideways on me, caught it before spinning and kept on going. It slowed me down a bit though. Enough of Miata's, now back to Opels.

Got the parts in from OGTS. I got them all installed except the air filter for the Weber. Posted pics of the installed engine in my members album here. All that's left to install is the carb, fuel lines, exhaust, battery and glass then bleed the brakes before attempting to start the car. Going over to a friend's classic European car repair shop after work tomorrow to rebuild the Weber. Plan on stopping to get bolts for the exhaust pipe, some fuel line and some fittings to complete the windshield washer hose hook-up. Three weeks to our local EuroBrit Car Show which is the planned debut for the car. Should just make it, hopefully. If not, then there is the club's Father's day exhibition in the mall in Decatur, AL. Hope to make both.

[wlkelley3]

When rebuilding the Weber, we found that the secondary throttle plate was bent and didn't seal like its supposed too, even after trying to straighten it in a vice. Picking up another one today. After installing it the carb will go on the engine, then add the coolant (its got the water choke) and turn the key. Hope it fires up. I installed the battery and checked the electrics. No smoke or fires which is good but there are some lighting issues. Tail lights work, so does the brake lights. Only one front running light is working and the headlights have the "in-transit" light on when full open so naturally they don't work either. I think this will require work on those microswitches. And yes, I did rewire the headlights. Dash lights work but the interior "dome" light doesn't. Turn signals don't "blink" either although I can hear the relay click. So it looks like I have some "gotcha's" I have to work on. I think most are just connection issues. But the engine turns over smoothly so that's a good sign. I think I can get it running adequate enough to get it to the EuroBrit car show this Saturday, though. Installed the glass yesterday with the help of a pro glass installer. The windshield was difficult, even for him but he did it without breaking it. The rest of the glass went in smoothly. He had some stuff that removed all the old sticker residue off. I couldn't get it all off, even using an razorblade and "oops" glue remover. Now to install the OGTS and Classic Motorsports stickers on the quarter-glass. Had it out of the garage in the driveway for the first time in years. Let it sit in the sun to cure the window seals while the wife and I cleaned that corner of the garage, couldn't get to it with the car in the way. Hauled 5 barrel size trashbags full to the curb. I suddenly have more storage space. I had planned on washing the car after cleaning the garage but it started pouring rain so I just rinsed the car off and rolled it back into the garage and dried it off. The rain interfered with taking pics of it in one piece with the glass in and on the ground so the next time I roll it out to start it for the first time, I'll also take pics and post them to my garage on this site.

[wlkelley3]

OK experts, I need guidance. I'm finishing up the restoration of my 70 Opel GT. It's all original, including points in the distributor except for a rebuilt Weber 32/36 DGV replacing the original Solex. Turned the key for the first time last night and everything seemed normal. mechanical fuel pump got fuel to the carb, can see fuel in the barrels but didn't start. worked on it today and still wouldn't start but turned over normally. Just like it should. Then something weird happened after letting it sit for a couple minutes. truned the key to the "run" position and the tach jumps and settles at 3000 rpm (hmmn, that's strange) turned the key further to "start" position and tach moves down to 1500 rpm (huh?) and the motor wouldn't turn over. Talked with a friend and he gave me the specs to test the coil (original Bosch). Ohms at >2 ohms at the pos to neg terminal and 8K from side to center. That's about what he said it shoud be. Next I tried jumping the starter but all that happened is a large current draw but still not turning. New battery on a charger w/ >12-volts tested. Points working, at least the distributor is turning and the points are opening. I initially thought bad coil but now I'm leaning to bad starter solinoid, maybe both. Coil is optainable local, starter isn't, have to order it and ship the old one for core. I know I'm pushing a deadline, my local club is holding it's annual EuroBrit car show Saturday and I'd like to debut the car there, that is if I can get it started. Any ideas as what this is? coil or starter?

[jeff denton]

Okay, I'll help you. First, make sure your electrical connections are all clean. You have to take them apart to see for sure. First is battery cables, at each end! The lugs have to be real clean and bright, and attach snugly. On the starter's big battery lug, make sure all terminals for all wires hooked up there are clean.
When you jump from the starter solenoid's big battery lug to the terminal marked "S" the starter should engage and crank the engine. If all it does is make a small spark, the solenoid is bad. If it makes a spark and a big click, that is better. Doesn't necessarily mean the solenoid is okay though.
If you're brave and love excitement, jump from the solenoid's battery lug terminal to the big terminal at the bottom of the solenoid, where a strap from inside the starter connects. Be careful doing this. Use something big to do this, like a pair of pliers, not a little wire. You should get a big spark and the starter motor should spin. It won't be cranking the engine, just spinning the starter motor itself. If so, you have proven the starter is working but the solenoid isn't.
We can continue after we hear that the engine cranks over again.

[wlkelley3]

Thanks Jeff. Well, the better news is that according to your post when I jumped to the solenoid I did get the spark and the big click. Haven't had a chance to jump to the motor itself yet. I'll try to do that this afternoon, might have to wait till Sunday since I'm staff at the EuroBrit Car Show (all European Car Show sponsored by the local Brit car club) this weekend which will begin late afternoon today with a scenic drive and BBQ dinner. I was hoping to have my GT in the show this year, haven't had an Opel entered in the show yet. Although Keith L. did bring his Spider GT down the first year of the show (5 years ago) but didn't enter it and left early.

[wlkelley3]

Haven't updated this in a while so it's about time. Been really busy between trying to get the car running, club events and work. The EuroBrit car show was a success, the biggest turnout in the 5 years of the show. 70 cars and 1 Vespa showed up. Germany was well represented, 5 Porsches (including a Cayman) and 1 Opel GT that Harold brought down (Thanks Harold), he even brought home a trophy (I won't tell that he was the only one in his class ). I even got to drive a 944 home for the owner while he drove his BABE Rally car (a Volvo) home. Pics at Untitled Page Select EurBrit2008 for the pics. The annual Fathers Day exhibition at Decatur, AL mall went well also. The at work we had a Users' Conference for CH-47 Chinook helicopter users worldwide. I was event staff this year. Long hours. We even brought back a few troops from Iraq to give them super-soldier awards. A free vacation to the states for them from us. Was a blast seeing a some old friends again and meeting new ones. Some I only see at the annual Conference. Also, the guy that has my Miata finally found an engine, a 2000 with 60,000 miles on it, that's 100,000 less than the engine that I fried. So I should get it back in a day or two. Then the gas-guzzling truck will be parked and back to being driven to the hardware store once a month.

Now back to the GT. Got a starter from OGTS and got it installed. Still wouldn't turn over and then dug into the electricals and found about half of the fuses blown. Took some time to find the 5-Amp fuses, had to order them from CarQuest. 8-Amp fuses are available. I replaced all the fuses and the 5-amp going through the turn signals kept blowing and temporarily installed an 8-amp till I find out whats wrong (I am well aware of the hazards of too big a fuse but need it to work long enough to find the problem and fix it then a 5-amp is going back in). It does still have issues with lights but I'll get to them tomorrow and next weekend. But the good news is that it starts and runs. Still have to fine tune the Weber but I did drive it to the end of the street where it ran out af gas. Added gas and drove it home, it died once. Not sure if it's fuel delivery or adjustment issues, I'll get it sorted out. Hopefully in time for a non-awards car show at the Delphi-Saginaw plant outside of Decatur. AL on July 12th. This show is mainly streetrods, hotrods and classic American Iron but anything older than 1978 is eligible. About 700-plus cars show up and door prizes are drawn for entrants, the grand prize is usually an old streetrod. Yes, a real drivable car, usually an older one that shows it's age but you can drive it away. A couple of us are going over and I would sure like to have my car in it.

[wlkelley3]

Well, the car missed the Delphi show. Couldn't keep it running. See my post in the tech forum of other carbs for my issues.

Any pointers would be appreciated.

[wlkelley3]

Well, been a long time since I did an update so here is an update. Ran into fuel delivery issues and tracked it down to the fuel tank outlet. The fuel tank outlet was clogged. Did some preliminary cleaning but mainly let it sit during the winter. I've been on the road for work a lot since x-mas, been home less than a month so far this year. Haven't had much time for anything, Honey-do's way behind. Last weekend I dug into the clogged fuel tank outlet and got it cleaned out (no sock in the tank), installed an inline filter next to the tank and it fills up. Fuel is now getting to the carb and intake but still couldn't get it to fire. I really want to show the car in the local EuroBrit car show on June 6th (see events calender ) so I gave up and took the car to a friend that runs a local classic European car shop to get it running for the show. He called me and told me he got it running by jumping the battery straight to the coil, seem there is NO power to the + side of the coil. He's tracking down the issue. So hopefully it will make the show this year. Missed last year because of a fried starter.

The show will be a busy time for me since I am VP of the local Brit car club (most active classic sportscar club in the area & don't have to have a Brit car). We annually hold a cruise/drive to a BBQ the night before the show on Friday. This year will finish at Klassic Auto's (the shop that is working on my car). I'll probably not go on the drive but stay and prepare the BBQ. The show is Saturday June 6th in Madison, Alabama and all European makes are invited so lets see some more Opels in the show. Last year Harold brought a GT down and this year mine should be in the show (even if I have to tow it ). Since I am staff, I'll be spending most of my time working registration, food/drink serving, ballot counting or other event stuff. I barely have time to see the cars in the show. The next day on Sunday work is sending me overseas for a week.

[wlkelley3]

Got the car back from the shop, it runs and drives. I think there is a small leak in one of the rear brake cylinders as fluid eventually goes done and braking gets a bit difficult. Will have to check into and fix that. Brakes are kinda important. Still needs some finish work but at least it now runs and drives. Having a drivable car kinda renews the ambition to work on it and fix the small stuff. Now if work travel will slow down enough for me to get caught up, maybe I can actually accomplish something.

The debut showing of the car went well, took runner-up in class to Matt Newman's beautifully restored 72 GT. See http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-ev...h-alabama.html for info on the show. I will definitely be taking it to more shows and cruises now.

List of things to finish the car In random order:
1. Driver's door mirror (will be cutting glass tomorrow).
2. Replace headlight microswitch so headlights will work (already have microswitch, just need to take out the bucket).
3. Redo the wiper arm travel. It now goes down into the engine compartment before coming up and only covers half of the glass. I must have messed it up putting the wiper motor back in after redoing the wiring.
4. Front end alignment - new bushings installed. And align steering wheel after front-end alignment.
5. Fix leaking rear brake cylinder.
6. Add GT twin-tip exhaust.
7. Replace old tires, keeping one for a spare. Tires have very good tread, only have about a 1000 miles on them, but they are about 15 years old.

Niceties for the future:
1. Install homemade "ottostart" relay. Already have. Wanted running before I install it.
2. Work on adding carpet to areas needing more coverage, like the trans tunnel under the dash. Already have.
3. Leather/vinyl shifter boot (red to match interior). Have vinyl.
4. Replace K&N filter on Weber with adapter to run stock filter assembly. Bought the K&N when Gil said there might be clearance issues on early GT's like mine so I got the sure thing to get it on the road and get the adaptor later. I like the looks and oddity of the stock air filter, kind of an early attempt at CAI. I do realize it was originally done for hood clearance. It's different and I would like to put it back.

Well, that's the short list. I know I'll find other things that need or ought to be done and I'll add it to the list.

[wlkelley3]

Well, to keep this updated. I ordered the "correct" resonator w/new rubber hangers and spacer, also a new rear wheel cylinder to replace the one thats leaking from Gil earlier this week. There was a car show today that the club guys were trying to get me to bring the GT. I didn't for 2 reasons. It was in the next town about 15 miles away and I didn't feel comfortable with the leaking wheel cylinder going that far. Also besides ordering parts for the GT I upgraded the suspension in my Miata. Installed re-valved Bilstien shock and a larger Racing Beat front way bar. Also bought an extra set of rims with a set of Kumho 710 VictoRacer tires installed. Its set for autocross now. Which is the other reason I didn't go to the show, an autocross was also being held. And wow did that new suspension work, greatly improved my times and now just fractions of a second behind the leaders which is a significant improvement of being 3-4 seconds slower than the class leaders. Now I have to re-learn the cars limits as they are wa-a-ay higher than before. Will be fun. More after the new parts are installed.

[wlkelley3]

Well, got the parts in from OGTS. While checking how the new resonator will fit I found that the wire hanger that holds the resonator to the bracket (which I have) is missing. Looks like I'll have to fab something up for it. Oh well, it's not like I haven't fabricated parts or brackets before. I've done it on aircraft and cars.

The most frustrating part is now I need to call Gil again tomorrow and order another wheel cylinder. I only ordered one to replace the leaking one. Took apart the rear brake that was leaking, cleaned up everything in there, it needed it ba-a-ad. Then installed the new wheel cyclinder. Figured that if one side was real gunky the other side might also be and since I had it up on jack stands figured I'd clean that side too. It wasn't as bad as the leading side but I cleaned it up anyway. Then while bleeding the brakes to get fluid in the new wheel cylinder I noticed the good side leaking brake fluid. Took of the drum and sure enough now it's leaking. Arrgh!!! I guess the gunk was keeping the wheel cylinder from leaking. Should of known better and ordered two instead of only replacing the known bad one. So for now it stays up on jack stands and tomorrow I order another wheel cylinder and put it on next weekend, hopefully.

Another somewhat scary thing was when I was taking off the rear wheels I didn't have to break the torque on the lug nuts, they were only hand tight. I know I torqued them, even used a torque wrench on all four wheels. I've only driven it about 25 miles. The fronts were still torqued. I wanted to get new lug nuts anyway, the old original ones were flaking chrome and slightly rusty. Already put the shiny new ones on the front and the one rear with the new wheel cylinder. Will finish putting the last ones on when I replace the other wheel cylinder and reinstall the wheel. Also found a plain chrome, thin license plate bracket I liked and put it on around the license plate. Looks better than the license plate only, looks finished. All the rest I've found are too think and block portions of the license plate. This one just trims the borders of the plate and doesn't cover anything up.