Laserman 1972 opel gt project

[LASERMAN]

Greetings!

I have always been a fan of the Opel GT since the first time I saw one.

I kind of forgot about them when I considered my first "sports car"

I had it narrowed down to a Miata or a Honda Del Sol.

I bought a Miata. I modified it, and upgraded it, and blew it up, and re-built it, and blew it up again, and rebuilt it from the left-over parts of the previous blow-ups, etc....

I pushed a Miata to 14.49 in a quater mile, and spanked Mustangs to the point where I couldn't get any $$$ betting any more.

Then I added a second stage to the nitrous, a custom built header, and a black box to over-ride the stock computer.....

***** THIS WAS AT A PROFESSIONAL TRACK - I NEVER STREET RACE! *****

I was running at Speed World in Bithlo, FL.

So after the car WORE OUT, I started looking for another sportscar - something vintage....

And I re-discovered the OPEL GT!

I did my track thing. What I'm into now is a nice, stylish, eye-catching daily driver.

STYLE.

So I jioned this forum, and started searching EBAY and Craigslist.

Today, I brought home my baby.

I was hoping for a yellow one, or maybe silver...

But what I found was better!

I restore vintage Kawasaki jet skis as a hobby, so I was quite pleased to find one in KAWI GREEN!

(I posted some of this on another thread, but this will be my main thread, so I wanted to get it all here....)

This car has German writing on some of the plates, and the guy said it was not an American model, but a German model imprted to the States...

I had a little excitement bringing it home - TOTAL BRAKE FAILURE!

I managed to get it to the side of the road, and I got a flat bed for the last 50 miles.

Give me a week, and I will have my daily driver!

I want to get this thing back to 110% mechanically, take advantage of any "new" technology (ie; brakes), and then work on making the exterior perfect.

I will be posting a full set of pictures tomorrow, so I can find out exactly what I have, and get moving on the brake portion of my restore!

It was dark when I got home, so here's all the pics I have so far:

I have no idea what the symbols\functions of the two sliders are. (or that red stuff below it!)

The stick shift also seems WAY OFF to the right.....

[opelnut10]

Congratulations on your find, looks like a good start for a build. a few of the points you covered maybe I can shed some light on. First the european (German) Gt's did not have the rear marker lights in the quarters. Secondly the brakes are marginal at best most of them need hoses and such, there are several threads here on the forum dealing with brake swaps so you should be able to search up what you need, if not ask questions someone will goive you an answer. The rear shoes each have an individual adjustment and keeping them adjusted is a big part of stopping the car. The shifter being over the the right a lot, I suspect, is that someone has changed the transmission and used one out of another model. Pretty easy fix, the shift tower (where the shifter goes) has a different off-set and you can change that out to get the shifter in the right place. These are fun cars to drive, easy to work on and respond well to modification. 150-160HP can be reached without breaking the bank and the sky is the limit from there depending on what you want to do with the car.

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by LASERMAN The stick shift also seems WAY OFF to the right.....

I think that the pin that holds the shifter to the shift fork is missing. You can get one from just about any member here or you can go to a hardware store and get a 5/16 bolt (if I remember correctly) the length you'll have to measure, and a nylok nut, and it should get you back in business, shifter wise. OH, if the return spring (base of shifter, on passenger side) is not there, any member should have one, just ask.

[Wolfman3002]

I had the same problem w/ my shifter and it was just as Opelnut said. The tranny and bellhousing had been transplanted from another model Opel (a Manta, I think), and so it put both the clutch fork and the shifter in the wrong location. Luckily, I found a cheap parts car ($160 for a complete car!) w/ a working tranny to fix the problem.

Good luck w/ your restore. Half the fun of owning one of these little beauties (at least for me anyways) is making small mechanical improvements on the car and then going out to test drive it and feeling the difference you made. The other half is just the sheer enjoyment of driving the car, especially in the twisties. It doesn't hurt that these cars are real head turners. And that bright Kawi Green paint will sure make your GT stand out in a crowd.

Randy

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by LASERMAN Greetings!...I have no idea what the symbols\functions of the two sliders are. (or that red stuff below it!) The stick shift also seems WAY OFF to the right.....

As you may know by now, the two sliders are your heater/vent controls. As for the canted shifter, as has been mentioned, the GT engine is angled from the factory to the passenger side to provide clearance for the carb. To compensate, the GT shifter is angled BACK to the left. It is actually just the base of the shifter that is different from the Manta/Ascona/Kadett, so you might just need that to fix the problem. But if a PO (Previous Owner) transplanted the entire transmission with the bell-housing, you might also have a problem as the Ascona/Manta bell-housing has the release fork further down than the GT, so the clutch cable doesn't line up properly. In the photo below, the GT bell-housing is the blue one, the Ascona is the black one.

Oh, and the "red stuff below it" is a brake failure warning light (the red rocker switch) and a seat belt light (only found on the 73's). The brake failure light should come on, along with the red dash light in the cluster between the gauges, when you press either side of the rocker switch (to test the bulb) and of course when your brakes fail! Well, only when one brake circuit fails and the MC piston moves past the sensor, indicating one circuit failure. Did it come on when your brake pedal went to the floor?

HTH

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by kwilford Oh, and the "red stuff below it" is a brake failure warning light (the red rocker switch) and a seat belt light (only found on the 73's). The brake failure light should come on, along with the red dash light in the cluster between the gauges, when you press either side of the rocker switch (to test the bulb) and of course when your brakes fail! Well, only when one brake circuit fails and the MC piston moves past the sensor, indicating one circuit failure. Did it come on when your brake pedal went to the floor? HTH

On some models A/T and later model M/T cars, IIRC, had an E-brake activated switch to activate the round red light brake failure light between the gauges no the dash.


Harold

[LASERMAN]

When I discovered the failure, I was a little busy to notice any lights on the dash!

Thanks for the pic of the bell housing - I'll compare mine to see if this is the issue.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by LASERMAN When I discovered the failure, I was a little busy to notice any lights on the dash!

So how can you be so sure then that you had a brake failure? The Europeans evidently are smarter than us as they didn't need a brake failure warning light.

Harold

[opelnut10]

Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr So how can you be so sure then that you had a brake failure? The Europeans evidently are smarter than us as they didn't need a brake failure warning light. Harold

If the car is from Italy it doesn't need brakes, as long as the horn works I guess the european cars are void of gongs & whistles that does not hold something together or assist them in monitoring the operation of their vehicle. I guess if the brake pedal goes to the floor and the car does not stop or at least slow down you should be aware that you have a brake problem without a light coming on

[wrench459]

Originally Posted by LASERMAN The stick shift also seems WAY OFF to the right.....

I'm a little rusty on this..
You'll need a GT upper and lower shifter pieces. That will line it back up where it belongs. The upper is very straight.
There's and early lower and a later,one is bolted to the tail housing the later? is cast into the rear housing.As far as I know the rails are interchangable so theres no problem there. Like I said I'm very rusty on this issue. Once I got the combo right I just change the shifter pieces to the new trans.
Judging by the pictures If the pin is good your having a hard time keeping it in fourth gear. IE mismatched shifter parts.

[LASERMAN]

My lower bracket is cast into the tail. Everything down there looks fine - the shifter has a bend in it. If that was straight, it would be OK. If it was bent the other way it would be better.

I took the calipers off today - it took some time to get the pistons out

It looks like you would expect from sitting 8 years. The rubber was ripped, and there was crap around the top edge of the pistons, and a little in the holes. The pads looked new.

I'll need to use emery cloth to smooth the holes out.


I have the rebuild kit coming, and some new bearings. I might not install the bearings right away, but I will eventually.

I would have got the rebuilt calipers, but they didn't have any.

I also got new rubber lines. I still need to verify the rear brakes, but if everything goes well my new ride will be driveable in a week.

Addition: I found out today that the re-build kits do NOT include pistons - Had to order some since mine are all chipped.

Hopefull it waill all arrive by Friday, so I can take a drive this weekend.

As I read more of the threads here, my list of "things to do" is growing.

[LASERMAN]

UPDATE: Some progress is made.

I'm going to try and keep this up-to-date. The brakes are all working now (even the hand brake). The car has new shocks all around too.

I found out what my "creaking" noise was - one of the springs in the rear was not setting properly. What's supposed to keep these things in when you get air-borne?

I've been dealing with little issues all the past week.

Replacing fuel\vacuum lines, inspecting\replacing hoses, getting the seatbelts working (one side so far!), inspecting wiring (next major project area!), And making a list of issues.

I've got a way to go, but I should be in "daily driver" status by the beginning of next week.

Right now, the main issue is a leaky valve cover gasket. It's leaking on the exhaust manifold. Combine that with the absence of a shift boot, and the car gets quite smoky inside! I checked the local auto parts store - I guess I'll order one today.

The wiring is going to be the major issue with this car. Under the dash is a group of wires that each have three splice-connectors in a 6-inch span!

I always wonder about people when I see stuff like that.

The signals will blink once, then they act like the emergency lights are on.

The rocker switch for the emergency light is broken, so that may be a contributing issue.

I expect to end up replacing all the wiring. I already ordered the headlight relay kit - the alt gauge spikes when I turn the headlights on.

After the wiring is "safe", the next priority will be A\C. Between the black interior and Florida's heat, the car is not comfortable at a stop.

My seats are in great condition, but I had to put covers on them so as not to mess them up with patches of my burnt skin sticking to them.

The car has the ARA inside unit in back - it's missing the console\control unit and the compressor (and maybe a radiator?)

The hoses have been run to the engine bay - where they were CUT and left hanging.

This convinces me there was an idiot working on the car. How hard would it have been to un-hook them? I really hate this sort of "vandalism".

This site has been a great help. I have found the answers to most questions without having to post.

And the people at GT SOURCE are the best! exactly what would we do without them?

Seems like I did more than I can remember here - lots of little things here and there.

...back to the search function - I've got to find out more about the A\C unit!

[LASERMAN]

UPDATE: Work continues....

I got my headlight kit today. I ended up doing it all while expecting at any moment to be drenched, but all it did was rumble thunder all afternoon.

I am very pleased with the outcome. The headlights are brighter. And there is no more fire hazard!

I like crimp connectors. They hold the wire right where it belongs when you solder it like your supposed to.

I will end up re-doing the whole car, as it is composed of 3 inch lengths of wire joined with butt connectors....

At least the back side of the dash panel looks un-molested.

One more delivery from GT Source, and I should be able to finish the "must do" list, and concentrate on the "want to do" list.

The #1 priority on my "want to do" list is A\C.

The car has the ARA unit in back, but the lines have been cut in the engine bay. I also do not have the control or console piece.

[BQS4]

Here's a picture of the better of the two GT a/c consoles.

[SpringGT]

Originally Posted by LASERMAN UPDATE: Work continues.... The #1 priority on my "want to do" list is A\C. The car has the ARA unit in back, but the lines have been cut in the engine bay. I also do not have the control or console piece.

Can you post some under-hood pictures so we can see what you are missing on the A.C.? Do you have the compressor mounts and idler pullys? Condensor? Reciever/drier?
Bob

[LASERMAN]

Originally Posted by SpringGT Can you post some under-hood pictures so we can see what you are missing on the A.C.? Do you have the compressor mounts and idler pullys? Condensor? Reciever/drier? Bob

Nope. None of it. Just two CUT hoses leading from the ARA unit to the passenger side of the engine.

I don't even have a double pulley.

I think this car was built up, and later stripped to feed another car. Then it was stuffed with the left-over stuff.

I'll get some engine shots soon, just to add to this thread.

[LASERMAN]

I've been driving the car the last few days - mostly to the auto parts store

I've been keeping a spreadsheet of everything I do to the car. My "must do" list is done.

New brakes, shocks, seatbelts, corrected wiring (lights. blinkers. ALT-REG, and starter so far), some new gaskets & hoses, and a hundred "little things" from sticking trim back on to fixing an exhaust leak.

I have another shipment from GT Source coming this week, and then it's all little stuff.

The big item this week is the upgraded alternator. 65 AMPS!

I am now in "daily driver" status! I am now doing repairs in response to issues.

My current "to-do" list consisits of adding the radiator bottle, and a charcoal canister.

The gas fumes need to go!

Other than finding some A\C parts, the next project will be replacing the original bushings front & rear.

But it's not critical, so I'll be putting a few hundred miles on her first!

A big thanks to all who helped me get this car squared away. Not just the people who answered my questions, but also to the folks who took the time to document their problems (and solutions), so that I could search here and find out what to do.

I couldn't have done it without you all!

[hrcollinsjr]

[quote=LASERMAN;199539]

I am now in "daily driver" status! I am now doing repairs in response to issues. My current "to-do" list consists of adding the radiator bottle, and a charcoal canister. The gas fumes need to go!

Check vent lines on gas tank. There are a few threads on this already. Also add weatherstripping between your cowl and hood to your list if it is missing. A lot of heat and engine fumes come from this if not sealed.

Harold

[LASERMAN]

[quote=hrcollinsjr;199540]

Originally Posted by LASERMAN Check vent lines on gas tank. There are a few threads on this already. Also add weatherstripping between your cowl and hood to your list if it is missing. A lot of heat and engine fumes come from this if not sealed. Harold

Thanks - I believe I have read some of your wisdom on tank vents.

I have the instructions, pictures, hoses, hardware, and tips all printed out ready to go.

My current issue is finding an appropriate charcoal canister.

I got my weatherstripping for the cowl and hood delivered today

I also installed my 65a alternator. I was wondering if there is a mod necessary for the dash meter, since it is set up for +- 30A.


So now I consider myself "up to date" on my to-do list.

The next step: get this baby up on a lift, and REALLY look at the underside.

That should decide my next repair\upgrade - which bushings, donuts, etc will need to be addressed.

.......Back to the search function!

[LASERMAN]

I decided to do some "creative" work today. I have a nice exotic wood store near me, and I always make a custom shift knob for all my cars.

I found this little item in the store that made this job a piece of cake. It's a wheel that goes on my bench grinder.

I usually do this with a hand file, but what usually takes days was accomplished in an hour using this wheel.

I used Bolivian Rosewood. I got a piece big enough to do the shift knob, the headlight lever, and assorted knobs and such.

I almost got the black & white ebony. The great thing about doing this stuff is I can change my mind and make it all over.

Well, I took lots of pics, but instead of posting them all I made a video slideshow and posted it on YOUTUBE.

YouTube - Making a shift knob

YouTube - Making a shift knob

Enjoy!

[LASERMAN]

I completed my first "long distance" trip this weekend. About 500 miles round trip.

The new fan belt got loose on the way there - made a nice screech I couldn't hear at highway speed.

The only other issue was the electrical system. I recently installed a 65A alternator. The ammeter was jumping around, and at one point during the return trip, the gauge went all the way to the + side, and the lights got twice as bright! (the belt was still tight).

Right now I'm trying to identify those little clunks and other noises.

One rattle turned out to be little pieces of debris in the bottom of the door!

I averaged 29.4 MPG for the trip. That included about 40 miles of city driving!

I really need to concentrate on the A\C. It's hot down here in Florida!

I am officially placing the car in "operational status".

Thanks again to all who helped me get there!

[Viny Charb]

Once you've taken care of any major issues you won't believe how much mileage your car will handle without any problems. I own an almost completely original and unmolested 71 GT (It does have a Weber carb,and stabilizer bars.) but it's handled 5000 miles (8000km in two years ) of hard use without a slipping clutch, burning oil or any break downs of any kinds... Sure you'll always hear the occasional mysterious clunks and squeaks, like any 40 year old car would have, but nothing that will leave you stranded

[LASERMAN]

Well, I am now looking for the solution to those 37 year-old squeaks. I am not going with the easiest solution.....(a louder stereo).

But I am going with the next best thing: Soundproofing.

I am quite certain that the noises I am hearing are not due to any major defects that will cause me to crash or be stranded.

And they will eventually decrease as I continue to replace all the bushings and such - who is really "done" with one of these?

But I am going to be driving this car EVERY DAY, so a little squeak, or the differential whine, or the very faint bump noise, will drive me crazy.

I hated that about my Miata. At 75 mph it made a vibration that would set in the back of my skull, right where it met my spine.

I will be reading up on what's used (like DYNAMAT) and what is debated (like EASY-PEEL).

I will also be looking at other solutions. I have some medical-grade soundproofing that was left-over from my R & D job (it was sold by the square-inch).

I used some on a jet ski exhaust, and it worked very, very well.

I will also be looking at my old vendor catalogs to see what I can come up with.

On the face of it, I can't afford the amount of DYNA-MAT I would need to do the job the way I want to.




On a lighter note, I did a little experiment on my trip to Ft Lauderdale this past weekend.

I bought the car, then discovered the ARA unit in the back. No console.

There is no compressor\evaporator\anything under the hood. Just two "cut" hoses hanging there.

The hoses were routed inside the car, under the passenger sear, and were interfering with the movement of the seat. so I pulled them out and got to thinking.....

(Florida is HOT this time of year.....)




I took one of my small coolers, and a spare bilge pump (from a jet ski), and hooked it up.

I had already played with the wires coming from the ARA, so I knew it was just a three-speed motor.

I went with the middle speed, wired it up with the bilge, and connected it to a cigarettte-lighter plug.

I put some ice in the cooler, added enough water to "prime" the system, and headed out.

My elbow was frozen in no time! (no console).

It ran flawlessly for about 20 minutes, then the cigarette lighter plug melted and popped out.

(Funny, I used one with a fuse, and the fuse was OK.)

So this works - I had plenty of ice left. I bet it would have lasted an hour or more in 90+ degrees.

But the freon "radiator" is not set up to flow water - it really didn't flow that much, although it did keep it cool.

So I got to thinking again.....(it's really hot down here right now....)

I live in Florida. I will NEVER use the heater. Why not move this system to the heater core, where I already have vent and fan control?

I am also going to use a closed glycol system using an oil cooler and an in-line pump.

I'll fill the system up with anti-freeze, and put the oil cooler into the bottom of the "ice bin".

Did I mention how hot it is down here right now?

I really need to get A\C into this car soon.....

[LASERMAN]

I noticed a bad tread separation, so I decided to get new tires.

I was hoping to run the tires that came on it long enough to evaluate the tire size issue, but oh well - this tire went to Ft Lauderdale and back:



I decided to get the car aligned as well, since the tires showed un-even wear.

They had a hard time getting the car "in spec". On the plus side, the machine KNEW how to align an Opel GT.

It spit out a sheet showing how to "flip" the ball joints, and how to "swap" the spacers.

It was still a little out on one aspect at the end, but since I bought the 3 year alignment, I decided to repace all the bushings and return.

On the way home, I noticed the car now pulled to the left, and the brakes made it pull even more.

The brakes were fine when I re-built them. They were fine when I took the car in....

So I re-bled the brakes. No difference. And a noticeable "knock" when I apply the brakes.

Well, I ordered the bushings and left her alone. Today I got the bushings.

The passenger side went well. The upper control arm was out and emptied in 15 minutes.

New bushings in and back on the car in 25 minutes.

The bottom ones were a different story. The sleeve didn't want to part from the threaded part, so I couldn't get the arm off.

So I ended up digging the old bushing out with an exacto knife (several blades), and running steel wool thru the hole to "sand" the surfaces before inserting the new bushing.

Same thing on the driver's side lower bushings. I must have missed something.

I also found the issue with the pulling: seems the tech doing the alignment forgot to tighten the upper control arm bolt.

I am suprised the nut didn't fall off.

I found a bushing on the driver's side that was distorted. I'm not sure if it was like that, or was due to the "loose nut".

But I'll find out when I go back tomorrow for a re-alignment...

I plan on letting the tech know what I found, and also letting him know I'm more interested in him paying special attention to my car than having his ass for screwing up.

After all, his boss is not the one who's going to be checking my alignment for the next three years.